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After Fifteen Years of Writing About Denim, These Are the Jeans That’ve Influenced Me the Most
I launched Denimhunters on January 30, 2011. I didn’t have a plan—just an obsession. I read From Cowboys to Catwalks on repeat and remember thinking, “If only I could one day write a book about denim.” Five years later, Blue Blooded was published. But it all started here, with a blog post like this one.
Denimhunters became the work of my life. I’ve poured more time into this than anything else I’ve ever done. The feedback from readers, the reputation it’s earned me, the continued love from Google—that’s all something I’m incredibly thankful for. And incredibly proud of.
To celebrate this milestone, I didn’t want to release a greatest hits list or write an autobiography. I wanted to do something that’s actually useful—even for new readers. So I’ve put together a list of the five jeans brands I’ve worn the most. Combined, they tell my story and the story of Denimhunters better than anything else I could think of.
I’m not saying these are “the best,” but they’re the ones that’ve taught me the most about denim, fit, construction, history—and helped shape how I explain it. First on Denimhunters. And now also through my own brand, Weirloom.
If you’ve been here since the early days, thank you. If you’re new, welcome. Either way, this one’s for you.
Levi’s Vintage Clothing
“Museum-Worthy Jeans You Can Wear”
Levi’s Vintage Clothing is built on the blueprint the entire denim world is measured against: original Levi’s. The real thing is museum-grade now—nobody in their right mind is fading deadstock 501s. LVC exists so you can wear those classics again.
It’s where I started too. Like a lot of people, I found my way into denim through Levi’s—but LVC was the turning point. It’s where I realised jeans had history—not just culturally, but technically. That fit, fabric, stitching, pocket shape, leg twist, even the way denim shrinks—none of it was random. All of it came from somewhere. LVC helped me start learning how to read denim.
The heart of the line is, of course, the 501. Each iteration represents a different moment in (denim) history, from slimmer post-war cuts to roomier mid-century silhouettes. For many denimheads, myself included, the 1947 remains the benchmark: a perfectly balanced fit, and the XX denim that defined what selvedge should look like.
The one thing you must know before buying: most LVC jeans are shrink-to-fit. They will shrink significantly after the first wash, so you need to size with intention. Consult size charts, ask how much shrinkage to expect, and choose your size based on how you want them to fit after the first few washes—not the day you unbox them.
If you want the closest possible experience to wearing an original Levi’s garment—something historically accurate that still fades beautifully—this is the place to start. Others reinterpret the past. LVC lets you wear it. And while your non-denimhead friends might “just see” a pair of Levi’s, you’ll know you’re wearing denim history.
You can buy Levi’s Vintage Clothing at Cultizm and Hinoya.
Other Brands That Reproduce Levi’s (Sometimes Better)
The entire Japanese denim industry was built on reproducing Levi’s. There are dozens of brands doing it well, but these are some of my personal favourites:
- Warehouse – Covered later, but worth noting here too
- Full Count – Subtle, soulful, and spun for comfort and fades
- TCB – Budget-friendly, detail-obsessed, and quietly becoming legendary
Brands That Still Make Jeans in the USA (Like LVC Used To)
When I first got into Levi’s Vintage Clothing, the jeans were made in the USA—now they’re made in Japan. But if you’re looking for American-made jeans, here are some of the brands still doing it:
- Tellason – San Francisco-made, no-nonsense and workwear driven
- Brave Star – Budget-friendly, factory-direct, and raw to the core
- Freenote Cloth – Refined, well-built, and deeply American
Nudie Jeans
“Creating Tomorrow’s Denimheads”
Nudie is the gateway brand for an entire generation of denimheads, including this one. They helped bring raw denim, selvedge, and the idea of breaking in your jeans into the mainstream without watering down what made it special.
Their strength has always been philosophy as much as product. From transparency and 100% organic cotton to worldwide Repair Shops that fix your jeans for free, Nudie built a culture around wearing your denim hard and keeping it alive.
For me, Nudie played a formative role. One of the first pairs of raw jeans I really committed to was a pair of Average Joes in their original Kaihara selvedge—the denim that launched the brand in 2001.
I wore them every day for five months, unwashed. When I finally washed them, the knees were already blowing out. The stiff cotton yarn had started breaking along the sharp creases I’d worn in. That was the moment I realised: there’s no single right way to break in and wash your jeans.
The six-month rule is iconic, but it’s not gospel. A pre-wear soak rinse won’t ruin the denim or prevent fades—it actually helps your jeans last longer. That’s shaped how I’ve written and taught denim ever since.
Related reading: How to Wash Raw Denim (and Every Other Kind of Jeans)
Nudie’s fits have evolved over the years, but the mix of Scandinavian simplicity and rock-and-roll attitude remains constant. And while Nudie has grown beyond raw denim into a full lifestyle offering, they’ve never abandoned the idea that denim should be worn hard, repaired, and kept alive.
If you want a brand that opens the door to raw denim and still stands for something bigger, Nudie is it. They helped create yesterday’s denimheads—and they’re shaping tomorrow’s.
Other Gateway Brands That Changed How I Saw Denim
These are some of the other brands that shaped early conversations around raw denim for a global audience:
- Edwin – Japanese heritage with global reach
- A.P.C. – Minimalist selvedge before it was cool
- Naked & Famous – Loud, clever, never boring
Indigofera
“The American West—Woven in Japan, Made in Europe”
Indigofera doesn’t fit into any typical category. It’s Swedish at the core, but the visual language is pure American West—sun-bleached deserts, wide horizons, worn-in leather, faded denim. You feel that atmosphere in everything they make. It’s not reproduction, and it’s not fashion.
This was the brand that challenged my assumptions about where top-shelf jeans could be made. Up until I got my first pair—more than a decade ago now—I thought serious denim could only come from one of two places: Japan or the USA. But a pair of Clints in the No. 2 denim—made in Portugal—changed that. They weren’t just good. They were exceptional.
Indigofera’s jeans were built like nothing else I’d worn, and they really opened my eyes. Construction was top-notch, the fit was perfectly dialled in, and the denim was unforgettable. I wore Indigofera jeans almost exclusively for several years. The only real quirk to me is that they don’t have chain-stitched hems. Indigofera has always done it differently. I’ve come to respect, even appreciate, that choice.
Their tops are just as iconic as the jeans. The Fargo and Copeland overshirts are built like jackets but easy to wear anywhere. And the blankets—made in Norway—have become collector’s items in their own right.
If you want garments with real depth—pieces that reveal more the longer you live with them—Indigofera is one of the most rewarding brands out there. Quietly original, built to last, and unlike anything else.
Indigofera is sold at: Franklin & Poe (US), Iron Shop Provisions (US), Blue Beach Denim (Taiwan), and Manready Mercantile (US)
Other Brands That Make Jeans in Portugal
Indigofera isn’t the only brand making truly great jeans in Portugal. Here are a few others worth knowing:
- Weirloom – I also make my jeans in Portugal, shaped by everything I’ve learned, not least from Indigofera
- Benzak – Amsterdam-based denim developer with a full line made in Portugal
- Eat Dust – Dutch motorcycle-inspired denim brand with great Portuguese-made jeans
- Livid – Began with one-man ‘made in Norway’ jeans, since grown to a fully fledged brand
Warehouse & Co.
“Vintage Accuracy Made Approachable”
Warehouse is probably the most accessible of the Osaka Five. Where other repro labels can feel niche or intense, Warehouse has always been the calm, easy way into Japanese denim: thoughtful, precise, and immediately wearable.
Of all the brands on this list, this is the one I’ve worn the least. Between the two pairs I own, I’ve probably logged eight to ten months of actual wear. But even that was enough to understand why they matter—and why they belong here.
Warehouse’s identity is built on the same thing they’re best known for: Banner Denim. The Shiotani brothers dissected a 1930s Levi’s banner thread by thread to recreate a 13.5 oz. cloth with the grain, slub, and softness of pre-50s selvedge. Woven on Toyoda G3 looms, it fades into gentle highs and lows rather than high-contrast streaks.
Jeans like the 1001XX (their mid-century straight) and the 1003XX (a WWII-style cut with flannel pocket bags) show the philosophy clearly: period-correct details, iron buttons, copper rivets, rayon tab, and cotton thread. That last detail is worth noting—cotton stitching is authentic, but it breaks faster than the poly-core threads most brands use.
Beyond jeans, Warehouse makes some of the best loopwheel tees and sweats in the scene. Clean proportions, great fabrics, everyday pieces that explain why Warehouse has such a loyal following outside Japan as well. And why Japanese denim and ‘made in Japan’ is more popular than ever.
If you want true reproduction denim without the attitude or the barrier to entry, Warehouse is the effortless starting point—rooted in vintage, easy to wear, and built with the kind of care that keeps people coming back.
Warehouse is at Lost & Found (CA), Hinoya (JP), and Clutch Café (UK).
Other Japanese Brands That Could’ve Made This List
There are a dozen brands in Japan making jeans at this level—and any one of them could’ve taken this spot, if I’d worn them. If I had to name three I could’ve just as well have picked they’d be:
- The Flat Head – Known for fast vertical fades, high-tension denim, and razor-sharp construction
- Sugar Cane – Great value for money. Vintage-inspired, accessibly priced, and built with zero shortcuts
- The Real McCoy’s – The gold standard for stitch-by-stitch perfection. Uncompromising, unmatched
Iron Heart
“Heavyweight Holy Grails with Motorcycle DNA”
Iron Heart doesn’t just make heavyweight denim—they pioneered it. Designed to be tough enough for Harley riders, they pushed denim weights into uncharted territory, and made it surprisingly wearable.
There’s something undeniably appealing about heavyweight denim. But it took me years to work myself up to it. By the time I finally got my first pair—the 634S in their signature 21 oz. selvedge—I’d worn a lot of jeans (even written a book about them). But this was still a rite of passage. And once I crossed it, I didn’t look back.
That’s probably also why I’ve worn Iron Heart more than any other brand on this list. The 634 is the best-fitting pair of jeans I’ve ever worn (at least from a brand that’s not my own 😉).
The 21 oz. selvedge is soft, breathable, and surprisingly comfortable. And everything is built to last. Since that first pair in 2018, I’ve worn the 14 oz., the slubby 16 oz., two pairs of 25 oz., and even the UHR.
Iron Heart doesn’t chase reproduction accuracy. They use poly-core sewing thread instead of all-cotton. Softly one-wash their jeans so you don’t have to deal with unpredictable shrink-to-fits. And most importantly, they design garments that work with modern wardrobes. It’s not that they ignore the past; they improve on it.
And the brand is so much more than the denim. Their ultra-heavy flannels in hand-picked Aspero cotton are benchmarks in the scene. The N1 deck jacket is iconic. Every stitch, every fabric, every detail is overbuilt in the best possible way—designed for durability, function, and long wear without sacrificing comfort.
If you want denim and jeanswear that’s seriously tough but incredibly refined, there’s nothing quite like Iron Heart.
Iron Heart is available at: Division Road (US), Franklin & Poe (US), Brooklyn Clothing (CA), Iron Provisions (US), and of course at Iron Heart International.
Other Heavyweight Denim Brands That Push the Limits
These are some of the brands that—like Iron Heart—take denim to extremes in weight, character, and construction.
- Samurai – High-stakes fades, bold details, and uncompromising builds
- SOSO Brothers – The world’s heaviest custom-made jeans (they’re 33 oz., and almost outrageous!)
- The Strike Gold – Known for vivid fades and fabric with serious personality
The Next Chapter Starts Here
I didn’t write this piece to be nostalgic. I wrote it to remind myself—and hopefully show others—that every worn-in pair of jeans carries more than just creases and fades. They carry lessons.
Fifteen years into Denimhunters that’s still what drives me. The five brands above weren’t just my favourites—they’re my teachers. They showed me how denim is made, how it wears, and how it lasts. And eventually, they helped me understand how to make jeans of my own and launch Weirloom.
There’s plenty more to say. But for now, I’ll just say this: thanks for reading. Thanks for being part of the journey. Let’s see where the next fifteen years take us.
Understand the Details That Matter
I’m Thomas, founder of Denimhunters. I write emails that go deeper into denim—how jeans are made, why details matter, and how to make better choices without the noise.
The post 5 Brands That Defined My Denim Story More Than Any Other appeared first on Denimhunters.
DENIM and PATCHES sourced this post originally published on this site