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Redcast x Momotaro Jeans, A Quick Guide to Bootcut Jeans, and a Brand Looking to Scale

I’m still in Italy as I type this, soaking up the last rays of Alpine sun and the majestic mountain views while I’m gliding down the perfectly prepped slopes.

My laptop has been closed since I left Denmark last Friday. I only opened it early Thursday morning—while the family was still asleep—to write this issue that includes a few interesting things that landed in my inbox this week.

Redcast x Momotaro “Wabi-Sabi” Collab Jeans

Redcast Heritage and Momotaro have released a highly limited collaboration jean—just 200 individually numbered pairs—built around a fabric Momotaro has never produced before: a sanforized indigo warp x Kakishibu weft selvedge.

The 15.7 oz. denim is woven at high tension from Zimbabwe cotton. The warp is pure indigo rope-dyed, while the weft uses traditional Japanese Kakishibu (persimmon) dye. Unlike heavily textured fabrics, this one is intentionally smooth and structured.

The jeans are cut in Momotaro’s new #100 straight fit—a high-rise, balanced silhouette with room up top and a clean leg from the knee down.

Details stay restrained: a custom peach–brown–peach selvedge ID, revived matte copper hardware, Kasuri waistband lining, and individual numbering.

A Quick Guide to Bootcut Jeans

I’ve never written a guide to bootcuts here on Denimhunters. Not because they’re irrelevant, simply because they’ve never been part of my own rotation.

When I got into denim in the mid-2000s, slim fits were everywhere—think Hedi Slimane’s Dior era and Pete Doherty looks. But bootcuts and even flares also had a moment in those years—it’s where Nudie started. Still, the silhouette tended to live closer to rodeo arenas than in the hardcore raw denim scene.

Bootcut is a leg shape—like straight and tapered. As I explain in my fit guide, leg shape comes down to the relationship between thigh, knee, and leg opening.

Straight legs have the same width from knee to hem. Tapered legs narrow. A bootcut is essentially the opposite of a tapered—it opens (slightly) from the knee down.

Over the years, several of you have asked for a guide to bootcuts. And if you’ve gone looking elsewhere, chances are you’ve landed on Heddels.

In 2018, Albert Muzquiz published an Op-Ed defending the bootcut. In 2019, they followed it up with a practical buyer’s guide—reshared in their newsletter this week—which includes these options:

Bootcut Jeans Worth Checking Out

• Brave Star Selvage Mojave Western Cut – Low-to-mid rise with a subtle flare, available in various raw selvedge fabrics.
• Freenote Cloth Wilkes – High rise with a subtle Western-style flare in 14.5 oz. Kaihara selvedge.
• Indigofera Wyatt – High rise and gentle flare in 14 oz. broken twill, available raw and rinsed.
• Sugar Cane 14 oz Boot Cut – Mid-to-high rise and classic Western cues in 14 oz. Japanese denim.
• Nudie Jeans Slim Jim Dry Streaky – Mid rise with a very gentle bootcut
• RRL Boot Cut – 16 oz. Japanese selvedge with a lower rise and a more pronounced flare.
• Fullcount 1120W Boots Cut – 13.7 oz. Zimbabwe cotton with a mid-to-high rise and classic proportions.

More options if you want to dig deeper:

• Samurai S512BC19oz Boots Cut – 19 oz. selvedge with heavyweight character and a low-to-mid rise.
• Naked & Famous Groovy Guy – 12.5 oz. natural indigo selvedge with a more pronounced flare.
• Kojima Genes RNB-102B – 15 oz. raw selvedge with a mid-to-high rise and classic zip-fly proportions.
• Levi’s 517 – Mid-to-high rise with the archetypal bootcut shape in rigid non-selvedge denim.
• Wrangler 13MWZ Selvedge – Mid-rise and classic Western flare in broken twill selvedge.

If you’re after the original blueprint, vintage Wranglers still set the standard—but that’s another rabbit hole.

And if you’d like me to build a full, from-scratch Denimhunters guide to bootcut jeans—covering proportions, styling, and who they actually suit—let me know. I’ll add it to my list.

Want Stories Like This In Your Inbox?

I also send these weekly updates as emails. If you want them directly in your inbox—along with links, updates, and things I’m working on—you can sign up here:

High-Rise Jeans Guide, Refreshed

While we’re on the subject of silhouettes, Bryan has recently updated our guide to high-rise selvedge jeans.

If you’ve mostly worn mid- or low-rise pairs—as many of us have over the past couple of decades—a proper high rise can be surprisingly transformative. It changes proportions. It works better with tucked shirts. And for a lot of body types, it simply looks more balanced.

The guide now reflects current availability and includes a broad mix of classic repro cuts and more modern interpretations. If you’re curious about going higher on the waist, it’s a good place to start.

Find the updated high-rise guide here.

A European Denim Brand Seeking New Ownership

One more thing that landed in my inbox this week:

I’ve been in dialogue with a well-established European brand in our scene that is currently exploring new ownership. The foundation is solid—recognisable name, loyal customer base, and ambition to scale further than the current setup allows.

I can’t share names or details publicly. But if you’ve been looking for an entry point into the denim space—not to start from scratch, but to build on something that already exists—this may be worth a conversation.

If that sounds relevant, reach out via the contact form and tell me a bit about your background.

The post Bootcut Jeans: Time to Reconsider the Flare? appeared first on Denimhunters.

DENIM and PATCHES sourced this post originally published on this site

Attendees at Copenhagen Fashion Week meant business.

DENIM and PATCHES sourced this post originally published on this site

Exactly one year after their first collaboration, GAP reunites again with Harlem’s Fashion Row. The idea behind this collaboration is offering emerging black designers a real platform, support, and visibility through a global brand partnership.

GAP and Harlem’s Fashion Row reunited for a special Spring 2026 denim capsule celebrating diversity, creativity, and black cultural influence on fashion. Especially denim, one of Gap’s most iconic materials.

Launching Friday, February 13th, the 20-piece collection showcases the work of five designers of color:

Daveed Baptiste of Daveed Baptiste – Sculptural and artistic denim pieces with bold motifs and embroidery.

LaTouché of LaTouché – Innovative denim using pleating, structure, and bold proportions.

Igdaliah Pickering of IGDALYAH – Caribbean-inspired washes like turquoise–teal colors, and statement denims.

Waina Chancy of Atelier Ndigo – Architectural denim with feminine flourishes and floral accents like hibiscus details.

Nicole Benefield of Nicole Benefield Portfolio – Utilitarian-meets-tailored denim essentials with relaxed silhouettes.

Each designer reinterprets denim staples like jeans, jackets, shirts, and jumpsuits, with their distinct cultural and creative lens, turning classic GAP denim into statement pieces.

The campaign, shot by Ghanaian-American director & photographer Joshua Kissi, centers on denim as a universal material, highlighting the fabric as a medium for cultural storytelling. The visuals capture the unique inspirations that inform each designer’s craft while celebrating fashion’s ability to unite individual perspectives.  

The Gap × Harlem’s Fashion Row capsule will be available starting tomorrow, February 13, on the brand’s website and in select GAP store locations. The collection will also be available in select international markets including Japan, Greece, Turkey, the Middle East, the UK, and Czech Republic. Styles in this collaboration range from $98–$148.

The post GAP x Harlem’s Fashion Row Reunite Again first appeared on Denimology.

DENIM and PATCHES sourced this post originally published on this site

Why Heavyweight Denim Is Popular Among Motorcycle Riders Motorcycle culture has always been shaped by a blend of freedom, craftsmanship, and practical design. From the machines themselves to the gear riders choose, every detail reflects a balance between personal style and real-world performance. Of all the fabrics that have endured…

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This past Sunday, exactly during Super Bowl, Levi’s launched “Behind Every Original”, a bold new global campaign celebrating the people who push culture forward. And there’s one cheeky twist.

Debuting during one of the biggest sporting moments of the year, the anthem film “Backstory” flips expectations by showcasing celebrity icons and everyday originals exclusively from the backside as they share the Levi’s® backstories which shaped who they are.

Why the backside? Because it’s the most iconic point of view of Levi’s jeans. The arcuate stitching, signature silhouette and Red Tab instantly signal originality. For over 150 years, Levi’s jeans have been the uniform of cultural catalysts across music, sport, fashion and art. Worn by those pursuing progress and shaping what comes next.

“One of the things I love most about the ‘Behind Every Original’ campaign is that it links together a story only Levi’s can tell,” said Kenny Mitchell, global chief marketing officer of Levi Strauss & Co. “This global campaign celebrates our place at the center of music, sports and fashion culture. Aas well as in the closets of fans across generations. It’s fitting to have it launch during the Super Bowl being played at Levi’s Stadium, which has become a cultural moment in its own right, through the unifying power of sports.”

“Backstory” is directed by Kim Gehrig and features James Brown’s ‘Get Up Offa That Thing’ as the soundtrack to a dynamic cast of Originals. The cast ncludes Grammy-winning Doechii, global superstar Rosé, reigning NBA MVP Shai Gilgeous-Alexander, Questlove, Stefanie Giesinger and even Disney-Pixar’s ‘Toy Story” character Woody.

Levi’s® denim is at the heart of the campaign, showcasing Originals in a range of styles including the Low Sim Boot, 578 Baggy jeans and Relaxed Fit Trucker. Every frame celebrates denim-covered individuality – strutting, dancing, moving and, above all, living in Levi’s.

The film honors cultural icons of the past while capturing the irreplicable swagger of those creating what comes next, rooted in the authentic moments Levi’s has been a part of for generations.

The “Behind Every Original” campaign continues with a cascade of punchy, six-second clips spotlighting each Original and shifting focus from fame to movement and self-expression. The fully integrated campaign spans social, digital, in-store and out-of-home, with more backstories unfolding globally throughout the year.

Visit levi.com and follow @levis on Instagram and TikTok to stay up to date on the campaign.

The post Levi’s “Behind Every Orignal” Campaign first appeared on Denimology.

DENIM and PATCHES sourced this post originally published on this site

Stella McCartney doesn’t treat denim simply as a fabric. In fact, she elevates her denim with technology and sustainability at the core.

Stella McCartney has long been a leader in ethical luxury, and Spring 2026 was no exception:

PURE.TECH Denim:

McCartney introduced denim woven with air-purifying technology which actively absorbs and neutralizes pollutants like CO₂ and nitrogen oxides. A first of its kind in fashion. This makes McCartney’s jeans not only fashionable and functional, but, foremost, super sustainable.

FEVVERS

Vegan alternatives – Fevvers replacing feathers

And above all, using predominantly cruelty-free and conscious materials.

In her Spring 2026 collection, denim is shown in deconstructed and reimagined silhouettes. There are slouchy jeans, layered denim outfits, and pieces with curved paneling (some suggesting a jacket tied around the waist).

Check out McCartney’s denim looks of this coming spring in our gallery below.

You can shop for Stella McCartney clothing on her website, at CETTIRE, and at NET-A-PORTER.

The post Stella McCartney – Spring 2026 Lookbook first appeared on Denimology.

DENIM and PATCHES sourced this post originally published on this site