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Double Denim Done Right: 11 Style Tips That Actually Work

April 25, 2025 by DENIMandPATCHES

How to Wear a Denim Jacket with Selvedge Jeans

Denim jackets and selvedge jeans are like lemonade and iced tea. They’re great on their own, but put them together and the mixture reaches new heights. In our books, wearing two pieces of denim at a time is not just an acceptable way to wear denim—it’s the best way to wear it.

Of course, we need to approach the combination with a degree of caution. Stacking denim pieces on top of each other without considering the overall effect we’re creating can quickly turn a stylish combo into a caricature.

Thomas and I have both been practising double denim for decades, and we’ve worked up a list of pointers that will help you do double denim the right way and avoid some of the commonly encountered pitfalls that come with the territory.

As with all our advice, you can take some and leave some. If you’ve found something that works for you that goes against what we suggest below, fill your boots. Dress in the ways that feel right to you. If, however, you’ve been looking for advice on double denim styling, the tips below should help.

Don’t Have a Denim Jacket Yet?

Before you get too deep into the double denim weeds, make sure you’ve got the right jacket. We’ve rounded up our top picks in the Raw Denim Jacket Buying Guide. Every jacket on the list is built to fade and made to last.


Tip #1: Choose Your Weapon Wisely

There are plenty of brands that produce entirely unique denim jackets—Tellason’s Coverall Jacket and RGT’s Supply Jacket spring to mind—but the vast majority of selvedge denim jackets on the market are based on a trio of Levi’s jackets that spanned roughly a century of the brand’s history.

Here’s a very brief look at each of these: 

Type 1

Based on Levi’s oldest riveted denim jacket, which was probably first manufactured around 1880, made its official debut in 1905. A pure and iconic piece of American workwear that, like the 501, helped build the West.

Key features are the single, low chest pocket (either open or with a flap) secured with rivets, the back cinch, the pleated front, and the extremely boxy fit. Perfect for heritage enthusiasts trying to recreate truly classic workwear looks.

Type II

The updated version of Levi’s denim jacket first appeared in 1953, and is perhaps best remembered as the denim jacket worn on screen by Elvis Presley (Martin Sheen wore it equally well in Badlands).

The Type II only lasted a decade, but it made a strong impression. It’s now enjoying a modern-day resurgence. 

Key features are the waist tabs, the symmetrical chest pockets reinforced with bar tacks under the button-down flaps, the waist adjusting tabs at the waist, and the knife pleats on the chest.

Like the Type I, the fit is boxy, though some modern brands offer longer, slimmer-fitting versions, occasionally with added handwarmer pockets.  

Type III

Introduced in 1962, the Type III was a slimmed-down and aggressively styled version of the denim jacket that became both a cultural and counter-cultural touchstone in the decades that followed its release. 

The key features are the higher chest pockets, which, like the triangular stitching and angled button-down flaps that sit on top of them, point downwards, creating a slimming effect and drawing the eye down the body towards the waist.

Handwarmer pockets were added in the ‘80s, the merits of which are still hotly contested by heritage enthusiasts (I’m firmly against them).

Other Notable Denim Jackets

Of course, these are not your only options. Lee’s Rider Jacket (including the blanket-lined Storm Rider) and Wrangler’s 124MJ are stylish workwear icons with a rich and storied history.

There are excellent modern jackets inspired by Lee and Wrangler’s mid-century jackets, and there are just as many great jackets inspired by other lesser-walked avenues of classic workwear. Before buying, do a bit of research.

The perfect denim jacket is the one that’s the perfect fit for your body type and your personal style. Remember, if you choose your weapon wisely, you’ll only need one. 

One Denim Jacket to Rule Them All

Not sure whether you’re a Type I, II, or III kind of guy? We break them all down (plus the worthy alternatives) in our Raw Denim Jacket Buying Guide. Find your fit—and your forever jacket—here.


Tip #2: Two’s Company, Three’s a Crowd

We all love denim, but we’ve got to apply the brakes at some point. Two denim pieces can play off each other beautifully, building on each other’s strengths.

When we introduce a third piece of denim to the mix, though, the happy and stylish union begins to fracture. Three or more pieces of denim are more a caricature of denim love than an elegant expression of it.

Three men wearing ten denim pieces between them. Too much of a good thing.

For this reason, we see denim shirts and denim jackets as an either/or style choice. When looking for a piece to wear with jeans and your denim jacket, instead of denim, consider one of the following: 

Our Favourite Tops to Break Up Double Denim Looks

  1. Tee/Henley – It’s impossible to go wrong with a loopwheeled cotton basics in light colours. You’ll find some of our favourites here. Nothing pairs as perfectly or as easily.
  2. Jersey Knits – Pick your poison. The classic sweatshirt is our favourite, but hoodies (either with or without zips) lend the jacket a semi-athletic, casual vibe. 
  3. Chambray – Versatile and comfortable, chambray shirts are soft enough to wear comfortably under denim jackets, and they look equally good tucked or untucked.
  4. Flannel – Heavy flannels and denim jackets are fast friends, but be careful with the length. Long flannels will leave a mile of fabric below the jacket. They tend to work better with denim chore coats than with traditionally cut denim jackets.

Break Up the Denim Party

Looking for the perfect piece to slot between your jacket and jeans? Whether it’s a loopwheeled tee, a rugged henley, or a heavyweight flannel, we’ve got full guides to help you find the best options. These layers aren’t just filler—they’re the glue that holds the look together.


Tip #3: Heritage Brands Beat Legacy Brands

Levi’s, Lee, and Wrangler all have rich histories, and all of them can claim without blushing that, at some point or another, they made the world’s best denim jacket. As denim became a global style commodity, though, they needed to find a way to keep up with surging demand.

The legacy brands are important for collectors, but their glory days are behind them. Photo credit: Long John

They switched from selvedge denim produced on shuttle looms to denim produced on projectile looms. This allowed them to produce more denim faster, but they lost something in the process.

Japanese brands (spurred on by ravenous Japanese collectors) preserved selvedge denim as a kind of slow-manufacturing art form. Ever since, the world’s best denim has been produced in Japan.

Legacy brands still produce extremely popular versions of their iconic denim jackets, but heritage brands’ tributes to these classics are better than the real thing. They cost more, but they’re worth every penny—especially if you wear the hell out of them.

This 19 oz. Iron Heart Type III (faded in one year by James Casburn) repaid its owner’s investment

Brands That Nail the Details

If you want your jacket to actually age well, look to the brands that put fading front and centre. We’ve got dedicated buying guides for Iron Heart, Samurai, and Full Count—each with a slightly different vibe, but all built for the long haul.


Tip #4: Contrast is King

There are two different schools of thought with styling double denim. The first is to match the jacket as closely as possible to your jeans, treating the jeans and jacket like a matching suit. When buttoned up, this produces a kind of head-to-toe colour consistency that some people seem to enjoy.

Bing Crosby in matching double denim on his ranch. Photo Credit: Getty/Hulton Archive

It’s undeniably a classic workwear look, but Thomas and I both feel that the matchy-matchy style makes you look too much like a gas station attendant. It’s our advice to introduce some contrast to your outfits.

If both your jeans and jacket are dark, wear something between them that brings some sharp contrast to the outfit. A dark blue or black tee won’t do the trick. Go with something white or light grey under an open jacket.

Best of all is to have some contrast between the jacket and the jeans. If the jacket is crisp and raw, pair it with a fully faded pair of jeans and vice versa. There are also some stellar denim jackets in lighter denims that are still raw.

Photos from Iron Heart Germany and Withered Fig

Another combination that works exceptionally well is to introduce some duck canvas to the mix.

Duck jackets look absolutely incredible when paired with jeans of just about any colour—and if you want that new selvedge denim jacket to really pop, try pairing it with Iron Heart’s 17 oz. duck Type III. The combination is a guaranteed stunner.


Tip #5: Don’t Pack it In, Let it Breathe

With its roots firmly in the world of workwear and westernwear, the denim jacket was designed with working men in mind. It is meant to move with you, to aid the working man, not to hinder him.

Denim jackets should look like they’re ready for action. Photo Source: Library of Congress

No matter what you wear under it, the denim jacket should slide on relatively easily. It should both look and feel comfortable. You should, for example, be able to change a tire or mend a fence without removing it.

The jacket should button easily, with plenty of room in the chest and arms

Yes, when it is brand new, the jacket will feel stiff. It will need some work before it will move easily. It should never, though, make movement difficult or impossible.

When sizing, leave yourself some room in the chest and arms. When styling, don’t pack it so full of layers that it strains the seams whenever you flex your arms.

Even if you never do any dirty work, pick a jacket that feels like you could work in it. If you look free and comfortable, you look good. 


Tip #6: Earn Your Layers

Jeans jackets can absolutely be incredible layering pieces, either as the last layer or a middle one. If you want to use it as a middle layer, though, there’s a catch. You need to earn the right.

He’s definitely earned the right to use this Type II as a middle layer

When they are new, raw denim jackets are simply too stiff to be used as a middle layer. They look and behave like outerwear, so they should be worn as the outermost layer.

At this stage, you can wear it under a jacket or a chunky knit like Beckham’s. Photo Credit: GQ

When we’ve fully broken them in, though, they can play in almost any position. Beat some of the blue out of it and you’ll earn the right to wear your denim jacket like a shirt, an overshirt, or as outerwear.

Built to Fade, Made to Layer

Breaking in a raw denim jacket is a rite of passage—and once it’s softened up, the styling possibilities explode. If you haven’t picked your jacket yet, our Raw Denim Jacket Buying Guide will help you find one worthy of years of wear.


Tip #7: Watch Your Waist

When the Type I and Type II were introduced, men wore their trousers much higher on their body than they do now. This means that heritage-minded denim jackets tend to sit quite high on the body.

Heritage jackets tend to sit on the waistband (a little higher than most shirts)

If you wear your jeans low on your hips, this might create some issues (especially if you have a long torso).

Ideally, the jacket should, when your arms are down at your sides, cover your belt line. Whatever you’re wearing it over, you shouldn’t have more than an inch or so of fabric hanging below the jacket.

To skirt your way around the issue, if you’ve got a traditionally cut denim jacket, pair it with mid-rise or high-rise jeans. Alternatively, you can look for longer-bodied chore coats or longer, modern takes on the classic denim jackets.


Tip #8: Make It Entirely Your Own

When those fades start to emerge, the jacket will start to look dramatically different from the ones that are hanging on racks and in store windows. This is the absolute best way to make a jacket our own—by wearing it so much that it starts to say something about both our style and our lifestyle.

This patch fits so perfectly that most people think the jacket came with it

Even before this, though, we can do small things to make the piece uniquely our own. Pins and patches will help separate your jacket from others that might look just like it, and they also help us broadcast something about our tastes, allegiances, or affiliations.

We’re less-is-more folks, but sometimes more is more

Embroidery, especially when guided by a skilled hand, can turn a simple jacket into an eye-popping work of art. 

Chain stitch embroidery might be something simple like your name or nickname over your heart, or it could be a colourful back piece. Either way, it’s a massive style upgrade, and it’s well worth the investment. 

Chain-stitch wizard Clay Wendel, aka @threadtripper, turns rugged pieces into personalised works of art

Tip #9: Collars Up! 

Join the ranks of Rugged Royalty like Robert Redford, Elvis Presley, Eddie Cochran, and Dennis Hopper by turning up the collar of your denim jacket.

The jean jacket has an in-built rebellious streak, but you’ve got to lean into it by wearing it a little askew and a little haphazardly.

Denim jackets made from raw denim have a big advantage in this department. The stiff denim stands up straight for much longer.

Even when nicely faded, the collars stand at attention when flipped, creating a pleasing vee shape that lengthens the neck and frames the face very nicely.

Like Sinatra’s cocked hat, the flipped collar is a touch of personalisation that makes even a brand new jacket look uniquely your own. The only thing to it is to do it—and to own it. Lift your chin and make it clear that your collar isn’t just flipped. It’s flippant. 


Tip #10: Dress it Up, If You Dare

For adventurous dressers, the Type III can absolutely stand in for a blazer or a sports jacket.

Worn over a shirt and tie, well-made denim jackets can look exceptionally sharp. Either with double denim or with dressier trousers, the bold combination demands attention.

The look is at its sharpest when the jacket is closed. Leave a button or two undone at the top so that you’ve got a bit of a triangle to work with—just like you would with a blazer.

Especially if you’re wearing lower-rise jeans, keep the jacket on and buttoned to keep your waistline out of sight. 

The tie seems to be the linchpin of the ensemble. Without it, the dress shirt and the denim jacket seem ill-suited for each other. With it, everything hangs together brilliantly.


Tip #11: Be Monogramous

Just as with jeans, it’s not uncommon for denimheads to have a few great pieces from some of their favourite brands that are fighting for supremacy in their wardrobe.

If it’s in your nature to be sartorially polygamous, by all means rotate through your collection and continue adding new ones that catch your eye.

However, in life and in style, the most deeply satisfying relationships are monogamous ones. Denim love shared is denim love divided.

A jacket like this Brave Star (faded in one year by Cade Schmutz) is the result of monogamous denim love

To properly fade a jacket, it needs to be your one and only. It needs to sit at the centre of your collection and, indeed, your life.

If you want to bring the best out of a jacket, settle down with one. Move in with it. Build a life together. If you don’t feel that any of the jackets in your collection are worthy of this kind of focused attention, splurge on one that is. 

When you’ve got that love match, remove temptations. Put all those jackets to one side, where they can wait until you’ve done justice to that worthy piece.

All the jackets in our Raw Denim Jacket Guide are made to be lived in. Pick the right one, wear it as much as possible, and let it become a reflection of what you do and who you are. That’s what the best jackets do: they tell your unique story in scars and stitches.


The Perfect One-Two Combo

The advice above covers how to wear double denim right. If you’re looking for advice on what to wear, check out our Selvedge Masterlist and our Raw Denim Jackets guide. 

To get the latest news on what we’re wearing and watching, sign up for our newsletter here.

The post Double Denim Done Right: 11 Style Tips That Actually Work appeared first on Denimhunters.

DENIM and PATCHES sourced this post originally published on this site

Filed Under: Blog

I’m Starting a Jeans Brand That’s NOT Business as Usual

April 15, 2025 by DENIMandPATCHES

Launching Weirloom with 100 Jeans on Pre-Order

For years, people have asked me the same question: “When are you going do your own brand, Thomas!?”

I usually shrugged it off with something like, “One day, maybe.” But the truth is, I’ve been thinking about it for as long as I can remember.

And now, after more than a decade of writing about jeans, guiding people toward the right fit, and working behind the scenes—I’m doing it!

It’s called:

(Pronounced ‘wearloom’—like heirloom, but with a w instead of the silent h)

I want to put all of my denim knowledge into a product of my own. Something I can stand behind completely. Something that can grow slowly and honestly—without compromise.

I want to make garments that can be future wearable heirlooms: garments that’re made to be worn, made to last, and worth keeping—made to be passed on someday.

All photos are of a prototype—the production jeans will vary slightly

Doing Things Differently For a Reason

Most jeans are made to hit targets. They’re priced with hefty markups to cover future discounts. They’re produced in large volumes that brands hope (but don’t always expect) to sell. And when something doesn’t move quickly enough, it’s marked down. Then more is made to fill the shelves again.

It’s a cycle that leads to waste—of resources, money, and meaning. Some brands, especially in the raw denim scene, have been rethinking how clothes get made—using pre-orders, made-to-order, and slower, more deliberate production. That’s encouraging.

Weirloom is my take on the solution. A personal response to a system I’ve seen up close for years. A way to do it differently—with intention, transparency, and care.

It starts with a single pair of jeans, limited to 100 pairs, and produced based on pre-orders.

What Makes Weirloom Different?

Fair question. I’ve seen enough jeans—worn enough of them, too—to know that good ones don’t need to shout. They need to fit right, wear well, and be worth what you paid for them.

The first Weirloom jeans have a straight-leg, mid-rise fit. It’s my ideal everyday pair—simple, timeless, and made to be worn a lot. Not too slim, not too loose. The kind of fit that works on real bodies in real life.

The denim comes from Candiani in Italy, one of the most respected mills in the world. It’s 14.25 oz. selvedge, woven on shuttle looms, and washed once for softness and practicality. You’ll still get great fades, I promise.

The cotton is regenerative. That means it’s farmed the old-school way, with crop rotation and without synthetic fertilisers or pesticides. It’s better for the soil, better for the environment, and better for the future of denim.

As for the details, every one of them is chosen with purpose:

  • Chain-stitched hems
  • Tucked belt loops
  • Punch-through copper rivets
  • Heavy-duty pocket bags
  • Blind bartacks

There’s a selvedge detail inside the button fly, and a peek-a-boo on the coin pocket. They’ve also got labels made of recycled materials, and biodegradable patch. All the things you expect.

What’s truly different than most, though, is that these jeans are produced on pre-order. This way, there’s no inventory to clear, no rush to discount, no overproduction. Just (some really good) jeans for people who (actually really) want them.

This is the kind of fades you can expect from the Candiani denim I’ve picked

Now Taking Pre-Orders! Want the Link?

If you think this is a pair of jeans you need in your life—if you want one of the first 100 pairs of Weirloom jeans, the pre-order is open!

To get the link, just enter your email below and you’ll be redirected to the page.

I’ll also send you the link in an email. You’ll be subscribed to my new Weirloom newsletter and the Denimhunters newsletter (if you aren’t already). Don’t worry—you can unsubscribe at any time, no hard feelings 😉

The post I’m Starting a Jeans Brand That’s NOT Business as Usual appeared first on Denimhunters.

DENIM and PATCHES sourced this post originally published on this site

Filed Under: Blog

Timber!! How to Combine Flannels and Selvedge Jeans

March 27, 2025 by DENIMandPATCHES

All products are hand-picked by us. When you buy through our links, we may earn a commission.

9 Tips to Help You Make the Most of One of Our Favourite Combos (Flannels and Jeans)

For down-to-earth combinations, it’s hard to beat the pairing of a great pair of jeans and a flannel. Workwear brands have long understood this, and many of the brands we love pour as much of their passion into their flannels as they do into their jeans

Just look at that happy couple (Bryan and his dog look cute too)

Workwear enthusiasts respond in kind, snatching up new flannels every season and adding them to toppling piles of flannels that allow them to keep their looks fresh and perpetually stylish—the flannel/jeans combo never goes out of style.

While the combination is easy to pull off, there are certain approaches that work better than others. We’ve assembled nine tips that will help you leverage all the style potential in your flannel. 

Thomas has been a flannel fan for years—here’s one of his lightweight indigo flannels from Iron Heart

With each tip, we’ve also included one of our favourite flannels. If you’re looking for advice on either what to wear or how to wear it, you’ll find everything you’re looking for below. 

Before we dive in, it’s important to note that we’ll be focusing on rugged flannels in the list below. There are more refined flannel fabrics that are meant to be worn tucked in—usually with suits or blazers.

If you’re looking for tips on how to incorporate these luxurious and lightweight flannels into smart or smart casual outfits, you won’t find them below. I own and love a few of these dressy flannels, but they’re not in the same category as the kinds of heavy and well-made workwear we’ll be discussing below.

The Flagship Flannel

Selvedge lovers around the world adore Iron Heart flannels for very good reason. Arguably the best-made flannels on the planet.

Iron Heart UHFs

Iron Heart Unbrushed Flannel


Tip #1: Well-Made Flannels Are Worth Every Penny

Just as you wouldn’t hold up a great pair of selvedge jeans with a cardboard belt, you also shouldn’t scrimp on your flannel if you want everything to hang together nicely. Something well-made will set you back a pretty penny, but you’ll quickly see that the investment pays dividends in terms of both durability and style. 

The signs of quality: 

  • Heavy and plush fabric
  • Triple-stitched and flat-felled seams
  • Sturdy hardware (the snaps should come together with a satisfying click and should not rattle when unfastened)
  • Pattern matched pockets (some good flannels have purposely cross-cut pockets, though) 

The best flannels on the market will set you back nearly as much as a great pair of jeans, but you’re getting a lot of bang for your buck. They’re practically indestructible, and, if you’re wearing heavy selvedge, the combination is bedrock-blasting dynamite. 


Flannels that Cut Like a Katana

Samurai’s flannels have some of the most distinctive colourways we’ve ever seen. Far from your typical plaid, they cut through and make a deep and lasting impression.


Tip #2: Find Your Perfect Flannel Fit

Whether you’re trying flannels on in person or ordering them online, the perfect fit is absolutely essential if you want to wring all of the value and potential out of your new flannel. 

Here are a few finer fitting points for flannels: 

Collar: Fastenable and Comfortable

Even if you aren’t planning on wearing it buttoned to the throat, you should be able to fasten the flannel easily around your neck, with enough room to slide one or two fingers (no more than this). When trying the flannel on for the first time, button it all the way up.

Length: Hit Below the Belt

The bottom hem should be at least long enough to cover the opening of your pockets (I like them a little lower than that), and the last snap or button should fasten across the belt line or a little below that. The curved gusset at the side of the shirt shouldn’t rise above your belt line.

Sleeves: Long Enough to Stay Put

The sleeve should be long enough to extend all the way to the heel of your hand, and you should be able to fasten the cuffs snugly and comfortably around your wrist.

When you extend your arms in front of you, the sleeve should move very little ( if it rides up your forearm it is too short). 

Chest and Shoulders: A Little Wiggle Room

Heavy flannels are designed to be worn as overshirts, so the chest and shoulder measurements should be generous enough to give you some room to move and to layer.

Raise your arms to chest level and then bring your elbow back like you’re bench pressing. This should put a bit of strain on the buttons or snaps, but not enough to pop them open.

If your favourite selvedge brand’s flannels don’t fit you perfectly, keep looking. If the Japanese brands don’t have your number, an American or European brand might be a better choice. Make fit your top priority. Everything else comes second.

Get Rid of the Guesswork

If you’ve struggled at all to find the perfect-fitting heavy flannel, SOSO has recently jumped into the heavy flannel game. Every measurement is customizable, and the 13.5 oz. fabric is excellent.


Tip #3: Weight for Your Season

Thomas and I love wearing (and recommending) heavy flannels, but we both live in Scandinavia, where warm clothes are a must. Even here, when the sun is shining during those short summer months, it’s hotter inside a snapped-up heavy flannel than a Finnish sauna.

There’s no substitute for the heavy flannel/heavy selvedge combo

If you wear heavyweight or super-heavyweight selvedge, it’s only natural to want the heavy flannel to go with it. The two are a natural match, and, for many, it’s worth the discomfort to get the style that heavy flannels bring with them.

An older “lightweight” grey flannel from Iron Heart next to their iconic ultra heavyweight flannel

Still, you shouldn’t have to suffer for fashion. There are very good and very well made lighter-weight flannels that are much easier to wear during the summer months. Keep the heaviest flannels in reserve for when the season makes them not just stylish but practical as well.

The Heavyweight Champ

If weight and quality are synonymous for you, UES flannels are as heavy as they come. Another brand with very Japanese sizing, you’ll want to check the measurements carefully before ordering.


Tip #4: Don’t Tuck Heavyweight Flannels

Heavy flannels are designed to be worn untucked. They’re at least as heavy as a lot of jackets on the market and, just as you’d never tuck in a jacket, you shouldn’t tuck in a heavy flannel either.

It pads out your belt line and everything immediately adjacent to that line. Even slim gents can’t pull it off.

If you’re looking for flannels you can tuck in, try lighter flannels like this Real McCoy’s Summer Flannel. Anything advertised as “summer weight” or “lightweight” should fit the bill. The breezy flannels will look perfectly natural as the centrepiece of either rugged or refined tucked-in looks.

As an added bonus, it won’t leave you hot under the collar like the heavier flannels. Most folks who want to tuck their flannels in do so because they want to layer something on top of it. Do this with a heavy flannel in non-freezing temps and you’re likely to overheat.

Southwest Charmer

Like so many of the pieces in their line-up, Freenote’s wool and cotton flannels are dripping with that distinct Southwest charm—equal parts dusty cowboy and road-worn renegade.


Tip #5: Skirting an Issue

Since most flannels terminate well below the belt line, this can create issues when pairing them with classically cut jackets, like the Type I, II, or III. The combination results in a skirt or apron of fabric that extends below the bottom of the jacket. Some folks love this, but we’re not in their camp.

This Type III and long flannel can’t be worn together

If you’re planning to pair flannels and denim jackets regularly, you’ll want to look for modern interpretations of the classics that have longer bodies. Another alternative is chore coats, which are designed to cover considerably more.

I have a traditionally cut Type III, a varsity jacket, and a N-1—all of them cut so that they sit on the belt line. I’ve learned to pair them with shorter shirts and knits.

I love a thin strip of contrasting colour at the bottom of the jacket, but anything more than an inch or so of apron is more than I can bear. 

If It Has To Be Short

Flat Head’s sizing is very Japanese, which means that they might be a great choice if you’re determined to wear your flannel under shorter jackets. Check those measurements carefully. 

Tip#6: Fiddle with Fasteners

Flannels (particularly heavy ones) give off an entirely different vibe depending on how they’re fastened. They’ve got a rebellious streak, and we can lean into that a little bit more with every snap we leave unfastened—most days, I don’t have even a single snap fastened. 

It’s good practice to play around with the fasteners to see how small changes can make a big difference. Start at the throat. With only the top button left open, the flannel is still quite conservative. Thomas and I both like to leave at least the top two snaps undone.

From there, look down towards your waist. If the last snap is either on or below the belt line, leave it unfastened. The flannel spreads nicely over the hips and has a little bit more of that devil-may-care attitude—which is further amplified when we keep going and leave two or three of the bottom snaps unfastened.

I like to leave my cuffs unfastened, while Thomas prefers the look and feel of fastened cuffs. I also like to roll the cuffs either once (folding the cuff in half) or twice (double the length of a straight cuff). Lighter flannels can be rolled up to the elbow, but the heavier ones look better when they sit in the middle of the forearm.

Finally, if there are flaps on the pockets, I like to leave them unfastened. If the pockets are work style, I like to leave the buttons fastened.

You’ll find your own idiosyncrasies if you fiddle with the fasteners until you find a style that works for you.

Swede Dreams

Swedish brand Indigofera have been a reliable source of great flannels since they first started producing them. The Norris and its more complex cousin, The Dawson, are both worth a closer look. 


Tip #7: Coordinate Your Colours

We discussed the best and worst colours for pairing with indigo selvedge in another article that you’ll find here. It’s a good primer course for those who want to start putting together pieces and colours in eye-catching ways. 

Flannels, usually multi-colour plaids, present both a challenge and an opportunity. They add a riot of colour to outfits, often becoming the focus point for the entire outfit. Still, while flannels and dark indigo selvedge are natural companions, dark blue gets along better with some colours than with others. 

This orange Indigofera flannel pairs brilliantly with indigo selvedge—Photo Credit: Denim Heads Prague

When the dominant colour in the plaid is red, orange, brown, or yellow, the contrast will be natural, drawing and pleasing the eye. Flannels with blue as the dominant colour might not contrast as strikingly, but it’s hard to go wrong with blue on blue.

If, however, the dominant colour in your flannel is green or purple (both of which sit directly next to blue on the colour wheel—which you can learn more about in our colour guide), the combination is more problematic.

Green and blue isn’t as good a match as green and brown

If you have a fondness for green or purple, try combining them with black or duck jeans. They’ll gel like long-lost friends.

The Slept-On Classic

Studio D’Artisan produce some of the best flannels in the game, but the brand frequently gets left out of conversations about great flannels. Not a brand to sleep on. 


Tip #8: Love Your Layers

Brushed flannels feel great next to the skin, but this can change quite dramatically when we start to sweat (virtually guaranteed if the flannel is heavy). It’s far better to layer the flannel over cotton basics like tees and henleys.

You can wear them over a sleeveless undershirt in the warmer months, but this doesn’t solve the issue of the direct contact between the brushed interior and your armpits. It’s far better to layer them over a light tee and to wear the flannel open, which will allow air to circulate.

Unless you sweat profusely or have a particularly strong body odour, if you always wear your flannel over something, you should be able to get away with washing it rarely or even never. Thomas and I both have flannels that have been worn a ton without ever having seen the inside of a washing machine. The colours are still as vibrant as the day we bought them.

Thomas’s go-to is the tee. I prefer the henley (either short or long-sleeved), which I always wear with all of the buttons unfastened. This allows me to show a little more skin, and the loose placket provides some visual interest around the open part of the shirt.

If the flannel is slim-fitting, keep layers thin (you should still be able to fasten it easily over whatever you layer it over). If you’ve got some room to work with, you can experiment with layering it over sweatshirts, hoodies, and knits. 

Peachy Keen

Momotaro flannels can move easily between seasons and styles, making them a great all-around rugged flannel for those who like options.


Tip #9: Wear Your Flannel Like a Jacket

Heavy flannels can look great when worn under denim or leather, but I’ve always found them to be most effective when treated as an indoor/outdoor jacket.

When the temperatures drop, I tend to wear the flannel around the house, but, if I need something really warm, I leave the flannel at home, opting instead for knits and thermals under my heavy outerwear. 

In the autumn and spring, I wear the flannel as my outermost layer, either open or closed depending on whether I want to keep the cool air out or let the warm air in. The vibrant splash of colour, especially when combined with the weight of heavy flannels, makes the shirt far more of a statement piece than it is when I bury it under outerwear.

This is one more very good reason to size up when purchasing heavy flannels. Thin flannels look great when worn slim, but the heavy stuff isn’t a good match for skin-tight fits. Let it move around your body, whether fastened or open.

You don’t want to be swimming in it, but, rather than shimmying into it like a wetsuit, you should be able to just throw it over your shoulders—more like a jacket than a shirt. 

Crossing Continents

3sixteen’s Crosscut Flannels have, since their introduction more than 15 years ago, been a dependable choice for those who want a Japanese fabric cut for Western bodies.


Styling Flannels and More

If you’re looking for more rugged style advice, you can check out our Style FAQ, our guide on Colours to Wear with Raw Jeans, and our Rugged Rules.

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The post Timber!! How to Combine Flannels and Selvedge Jeans appeared first on Denimhunters.

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