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Buying Guide: How to Pick Your Benzak Jeans
Founded in 2013 by Lennaert Nijgh, Benzak grew from one denimhead’s thesis-turned-plan into one of Europe’s most respected denim brands, making timeless jeans and classic garments.
Lennaert’s denim story started in high school, when he discovered raw denim. AMFI gave him the business foundation; the forums gave him the denim education. And a chance meeting with Japan Blue Group in Kojima gave him the production partner he needed.
Today, Benzak stands for a kind of modern classicism in denim; European precision shaped by Japanese craft. Everything is built to wear in, not wear out. The focus is timeless fits, practical details, and denims developed to fade beautifully.
TL;DR: What Sets Benzak Jeans Apart
This is where Dutch denim design meets Japanese and Italian selvedge craft, tuned for modern fits and proper fades. Shop Benzak jeans here.
Where To Start with Benzak Jeans
Benzak runs two complementary lines: European Made and Made in Japan. The choice usually comes down to budget.
The ‘made in Europe’ jeans retail at €215, while the Japanese line sits at €350—including VAT in the EU. Both carry the same DNA of quality selvedge denim, clean construction, and Benzak’s signature details.
Benzak’s Denims: Japanese and Italian Selvedge
The brand offers an impressively wide variety of selvedge denims across the two lines. To keep things simple, I’ve handpicked my favourites that give you a good idea of where to start.
Special #1 Low Tension Selvedge (Japan, 14 oz.)
This is Benzak’s first proprietary denim, woven by Collect in Kojima since 2016. Midweight and all-year friendly, the low-tension weave gives it a looser structure with subtle slub and character.
Special #2 Selvedge (Italy, 15 oz.)
A Candiani-exclusive for Benzak, developed with a thicker weft than warp for a softer hand from day one. The selvedge ID (blue and orange) pays tribute to the Italian and Dutch national colours.
Kojima Selvedge (Japan, 15.5 oz.)
This Collect-woven red cast denim combines slubby texture with a breathable low-tension weave. First introduced during Benzak’s fading contest in 2017, it later became a core fabric—Japanese craft applied across both lines.
Brown Cotton Selvedge (Italy, 13 oz.)
A Candiani classic with a twist—the brown-dyed weft gives this denim a slightly darker tone and sharper contrast fades. As the fabric wears down, the brown weft peeks through, creating a ‘dirt effect’ and a vintage, lived-in look.
Black Slub Selvedge (Italy, 13 oz.)
Woven by Candiani with slubby black warp yarns for texture and depth. The sulphur-dyed warp and indanthrene-dyed weft give it rich, lasting colour that fades slowly into charcoal highs and greys over time.
Benzak’s Fits: Modern Takes on Classic Cuts
Benzak builds modernised heritage silhouettes: sensible rises, thigh room where you need it, and clean hems. The European and Japanese lines mirror each other, so you can choose the same silhouette in either Candiani or Kojima denim.
Lennaert is constantly refining the range—introducing new fits, while occasionally retiring old ones. At the time of publication, the fits below are in continuous production.
Regular Fits: B-02 and BDD-707
Inspired by 1940s straight cuts, these are high-rise jeans with a classic leg line. The shaped top block makes them comfortable while keeping the look authentic. Size true for a timeless fit, or go up for a looser, vintage drape.
Slim Fits: B-01, BDD-006, and B-06
This group really strikes that balance between modern and classic I talk so much about. The rise sits comfortably without being low, and the taper is subtle enough to stay wearable for most body types. If you like a sharper silhouette without sacrificing comfort, this is the sweet spot.
Tapered Fits: B-03 and BDD-711
More room up top with a tidy taper below the knee. These fits work well if you want ease of movement in the thighs with a narrower opening. Worn true, they feel contemporary; worn a size up, they relax into a slightly looser shape.
Relaxed Fits: B-04 and B-07
Cut with generous room in the top block and a natural drape through the leg. The rise tilts slightly for comfort on the hips, while the overall silhouette nods to vintage workwear. Ideal for those who prefer space and structure in equal measure.
If you’re unsure where to start, B-01, B-02, and B-07 are Benzak’s most popular fits—all of them modern silhouettes that balance comfort, proportion, and clean lines.
How Benzak Makes Its Jeans
The Japan line is Kojima to the core, made from start to finish in the Japanese denim capital. The selvedge denims are rope-dyed and shuttle loomed. Details include tucked loops, neat pocket bags, felled inseams, and chain-stitched hems.
The European line keeps the DNA intact at a more budget-friendly price point. The denims are from Candiani in Italy, while the jeans are cut and sewn in Portugal. The dialled-back details keep costs in check, but Benzak signatures remain: clean construction, consistent quality control, and the hidden sixth pocket.
Under both lines are Lennaert’s two rules—no concessions on product quality or design, and make what he wants to wear himself. Longevity beats seasonality.
What To Know When Buying
Sizing: Benzak sizes its jeans according to the Western sizing standard. That means the actual waist measures about 2 inches bigger than the tagged size. If you normally wear a size 32 from European or American brands, you’ll likely fit a size 32 in Benzaks here as well.
Break-in and fades: Special #1 is the balanced all-rounder. Kojima Selvedge leans bright and textured. Heavy Slub brings bold highs and lows. The Special #2 gives you comfort from day one and still plenty of fade character.
Care: Benzak’s approach is refreshingly balanced: postpone washing 6–9 months if you want sharp contrasts, or wash more often for an even tone. Either way, stains and smells mean it’s time to wash. Always turn inside out, use cool water and mild detergent, and hang to dry—washing won’t ruin them, it can actually help them last longer.
Normally, this is where I’d tell you to check out my denim care guides, but Lennaert’s every bit as meticulous about this stuff—maybe even more. If you want to read more, check out Benzak’s Denim Care Instructions and Wash Guide.
Shipping and duties: Benzak offers free shipping on orders from €150 for the Benelux and Germany, and on orders from €250 for the rest of the world. Inside the EU, prices include VAT, while you see the price without VAT for non-EU countries. Just know that you’ll be responsible for any local duties or customs fees on arrival.
Hemming and repairs: Benzak ships all jeans in one length, so most people will cuff them or get them hemmed. You can go anywhere, but Benzak also partners with Future Future in the Netherlands and Indigo Proof in the US for chain-stitch hemming with original threads. Both also handle official repairs to keep your jeans going for years. (These are paid services, not included in the price.) For all the details, visit Benzak’s hemming and repair page.
Ready to Fade a Pair of Benzaks?
Benzak shows what’s possible when a brand grows on its own terms—steady, independent, and true to its vision.
What started as a personal project has become a benchmark in our industry. When I talk to mills, agents, or makers, the name ‘Benzak’ usually comes up. A true source of inspiration as I build my own brand.
If you care about fit, fabric, and fades in equal measure, Benzak is a name you should know—and wear. (And now you know what it means.)
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DENIM and PATCHES sourced this post originally published on this site