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What You Need to Know Before Buying and Soaking Shrink-to-Fit Selvedge Jeans
Unwashed, unsanforized selvedge is one of the most rewarding and essential experiences you can have with a pair of jeans. The denims are drop-dead gorgeous, full of texture and character, and the fit can (if you get it right) be among the best you’ll ever experience.
But shrink-to-fit selvedge is also full of risks. The denim shrinks a considerable amount when washed or soaked, and no two denims are exactly alike. Before you dive in headfirst, you need to know exactly what you’re getting into.
We’ve rounded up more than a dozen brands that make excellent shrink-to-fit selvedge jeans. To help you get the fit and size right, we’ll tell you something about how these denims perform when washed. If you’ve got to size up, go true to size, or size down, we’ll let you know.
TL;DR – Our Favourite Brands for Unsanforized Selvedge
If you want to go straight to the best of unsanforized, shrink-to-fit, and loomstate selvedge, here are our top picks.
- Big John RARE – Best Overall: The OG of Japanese selvedge, Big John’s RARE selvedge is as essential as they come.
- Studio D’Artisan – Best Variety: With a wide range of unwashed and unsanforized options, SDA gives you a ton of options.
- Iron Heart UHR – Best Heavyweight: Tipping the scales at over 23 oz., Iron Heart’s Ultra Heavy Raw combines the worlds of heavy and unsanforized selvedge.
For our complete list, click here to see the other brands that make excellent shrink-to-fit jeans. Before we get to the list, though, let’s talk a bit about the differences between the different kinds of dry selvedge denims.
Unsanforized, Shrink-to-Fit, Loomstate, and Unwashed: What’s the Difference?
Sometimes used on their own, sometimes in bunches, the terms unwashed, unsanforized, shrink-to-fit, and loomstate all say something about how either the denim or the assembled pair was treated before it arrived at the store.
Unwashed refers to pairs that have not been washed after they have been assembled into jeans. Unwashed pairs might be made from either sanforized or unsanforized denim.
Unsanforized refers to denim that has not been subject to the process of sanforization (defined below). Plenty of brands and retailers offer pairs that are unsanforized but have been washed once in the factory. Unwashed and unsanforized denim will shrink by as much as 10% when washed or soaked.
Shrink-to-fit is the consumer-facing name used for denim that will shrink a considerable amount when washed or soaked for the first time. Shrink-to-fit denim is usually unsanforized, but some brands will label lightly sanforized pairs as shrink-to-fit. The denim will shrink when washed, but some brands’ pairs will shrink more than others.
Loomstate is the rarest and “rawest” of all denims. Loomstate denim hasn’t been washed or sanforized, and it has not been singed (removing the small hairs on the surface of the jeans) or skewed (pre-twisted to account for leg twist). It comes straight off the loom and into your hands.
In this guide, we’ll be looking exclusively at selvedge denims that are both unwashed and unsanforized. That means all of these denims are shrink-to-fit, but not all of them are loomstate.
The Best Shrink-to-Fit Selvedge Brands
Only a small number of brands produce unwashed and unsanforized jeans, and even fewer retailers stock them.
The ones who do tend to be quite knowledgeable about what they’re selling, but don’t count on it. Do your research beforehand to make sure you’re getting the right product in the right size.
Studio D’Artisan
Leaders in the Japanese selvedge revolution
It seems appropriate that Studio D’Artisan, who kickstarted the Osaka-based selvedge revolution in Japan way back in 1979, remain one of the best sources for true-blue, unwashed and unsanforized selvedge.
Brimming with gorgeous details like goatskin patches and tucked loops, and finished with Studio D’Artisan’s trademark graceful arcs, pairs from this brand can be found in the collections of serious denimheads the world over.
Division Road has a wide range of unsanforized and unwashed SDA pairs to pick from. They also have very detailed information about pre- and post-wash sizing. They measure each new batch to make sure the sizing info is always precise, so use their post-wash measurements rather than the tagged size when choosing your pair and follow their detailed wash instructions.
You can buy Studio D’Artisan from these retailers: Redcast Heritage (ES), Division Road (US), Brooklyn Clothing (CA), Hinoya (JP)
Levi’s Vintage Clothing
The true-blue original
This list wouldn’t be complete without a nod to the brand that started it all. Levi’s began using sanforized denim for their 501 jeans in the ‘80s, but LVC, their heritage arm, helped revive the true shrink-to-fit classic, first in Japan and then in the West.
While we feel that other brands in this space have snatched the throne away from the legacy denim titan, there is undeniably something special about the original. If only the true-blue classic will do, LVC does very good versions of their icons (recreated from archived pairs).
LVC’s “rigid” pairs are designed to be able to be purchased in your typical tag size. They’ve added a little more than an inch to the waist, so, after washing or soaking, they should fit perfectly.
Some sources suggest that LVC pairs will shrink as much as two inches in the waist, but this seems quite high. It’s best to confirm pre-wash measurements and approximate shrinkage with retailers before purchasing.
You can buy Levi’s Vintage Clothing at Cultizm (DE) and Hinoya (JP).
Big John
The first and arguably the greatest
The OG Japanese selvedge brand, Big John was behind nearly every denim innovation in Japan until they were joined by the Osaka heavyweights in the 80s.
They introduced their RARE selvedge in 1980, and the pairs immediately set the bar extremely high for the selvedge brands that would follow in their wake. For our money, this is the best of the bunch.
You can find extremely detailed pre- and post-wash measurements for RARE jeans here. Raw pairs are considerably larger than their tag size, so you’ll likely need to size down. Use their post-wash measurements as a guide, but remember that they’ll likely stretch around half a size with wear.
Big John is sold at Redcast Heritage (ES), Cultizm (DE), Hinoya (JP), and Franklin & Poe (US)
The Flat Head
The fade fanatic’s not-too-secret weapon
Thanks to their distinctive vertical texture and crisp denims that produce stunning contrasts, The Flat Head built themselves a stellar reputation in the scene. Fade enthusiasts recognised their unsanforized pairs as some of the best fade foundations going.
Flat Head’s legendary 14.5 oz. Pioneer Denim, available in both unwashed and one-washed versions, remains some of the best unsanforized denim on the planet. The combination of sharp cuts and wild fade potential should make this one an easy choice.
The unsanforized versions will fit true to size when they are dry, so this is one of those brands you’ll want to size up with. They’ll shrink a little more than they’ll stretch—so size up if you want a comfortable fit after the first soak.
The Flat Head is available at: Redcast Heritage (ES), Franklin & Poe (US), and Iron Shop Provisions (US)
Before we continue with the list, these tips will help you get the right fit and size:
Navigating the World of Unsanforized Selvedge
Buying shrink-to-fit selvedge is less forgiving than buying sanforized and pre-washed jeans. Get the sizing wrong, and you won’t be able to return the pair after the first soak. These tips will help you get that perfect fit the first time and every time after that.
Know your numbers: Making sense of the pre- and post-wash numbers depends on you knowing what kind of measurements you need (ideally to the decimal place). Waist size is the most important, but remember that shrink-to-fit pairs shrink everywhere.
Do your research: Either the brand or the retailer (sometimes both) should have detailed information about the pair and how it will react to water. Every denim is different, so read this information carefully whenever it is available. If it isn’t available, ask for it.
Account for stretch: Remember that not all shrinkage is permanent. The pair will likely stretch by a few percentage points (especially in the waist). Aim for a snug fit around the waist after that first soak.
Start with the soak: It’s our advice to always start unwashed, unsanforized pairs with either a soak or wash. This will ensure that your combs and whiskers are set in the right place.
Dial it up or down: You can dial up or down shrinkage with temperature and agitation. For maximum shrink, put the washing machine on its hottest setting (make sure to turn off the spin cycle). For minimal shrink, a quick cold soak in the tub or in a bucket should do the trick.
Know your denim’s limits: Unwashed and unsanforized denim will shrink around a full tag size. Pairs that are much too large will likely remain too big after they’ve been soaked or washed (no matter how hot the water).
Wait to hem: if you need to hem your jeans, either leave at least two inches more than you usually would or, even better, wait to hem them until after you’ve washed them at least once.
Okay, let’s get back to the list.
Denime
One old-timer to another
Since production for this brand was taken over by the denim wizards at Warehouse, the storied brand (a member of the Osaka Five) has been getting new looks from the world’s vintage-loving denimheads.
For those who appreciate denim done the old-fashioned way, it doesn’t get much better than this. A true diamond in the rough, with a long track record of producing incredible fades.
Just like Warehouse, Denime pairs are considerably larger than their tag size. You’ll likely want to size down from your typical tag size to find your perfect post-soak fit.
Denime (by Warehouse) is sold at Lost & Found (CA), Cultizm (DE), Hinoya (JP), and Clutch Café (UK).
The Real McCoy’s
The kings of made-in-Japan reproductions
It’s no surprise that The Real McCoy’s, the foremost name in made-in-Japan vintage reproductions, would make one of the best unsanforized pairs on the market.
Their 14.25 oz. selvedge is based on archived examples from the period. They spent more than two years developing this selvedge, and it’s widely regarded as one of the best vintage fade foundations in the scene.
Measurements are slightly larger than tag size, but you can expect these to shrink a little more than a full tag size. If you’re buying the unwashed version, sizing up is usually the safer option.
Real McCoy’s is available at Lost & Found (CA) and Clutch Café (UK)
Warehouse
Flying the banner of perfection
Warehouse would appear higher on this list if it wasn’t so darned hard to find pairs in stock anywhere. Production has slowed down to a crawl with the legendary Japanese brand, so if you see a pair in your size, get it while the gettings good.
Warehouse’s Banner Denim is widely regarded as one of the best (if not the best) reproduction of vintage Levi’s denim on the market. A treat for the hands and the eye, it fades to brilliant soft shades of blue.
Warehouse are one of the few brands that require you to size down to get your perfect size. They will stretch out by almost a full inch, but will lose around an inch and a half when washed for the first time. Size down for a comfortable but snug fit.
Warehouse is sold at Lost & Found (CA), Cultizm (DE), Hinoya (JP), and Clutch Café (UK).
Mister Freedom
The connoisseur’s choice
With an unfathomably deep appreciation for the long history of American workwear, Christophe Loiron (the man behind Mister Freedom) works with deadstock fabrics to give his fans a true taste of the true-blue original.
Their Lot. 64 Californian jeans boast some of the most distinctive back pockets in the game, plus mountains of fade potential. A great choice for those who want their pick to speak volumes about their discerning taste for denim labels.
To make things easy for you, these jeans have been engineered to shrink to a perfect tagged fit. This means that if they’re tagged as a size 32, they will shrink down to a 32-inch waist. You should be able to order them in your usual tag size. Still, as with all pairs, you should read the measurement chart carefully.
You can buy Mister Freedom at: Franklin & Poe (US), Blue Beach Denim (TW), Cultizm (DE), Clutch Café (UK), Hinoya (JP)
Iron Heart
With a heavy heart and dry denim
Iron Heart is best known for their 21 oz. and 25 oz. selvedge, both of which are sanforized. They do, however, offer one unwashed and unsanforized selvedge: Ultra Heavy Raw (UHR).
Renowned for its dense feel and its unrivalled fade potential, the 21 oz. selvedge, which swells to 23 oz. when introduced to water, has earned legions of fans among the Iron Heart faithful.
The jeans are larger than their tag size, so, with a vigorous wash, you can expect them to shrink down to something closer to the tag size. Don’t overcompensate by sizing up too much. If you’re between sizes or have questions, Iron Heart’s customer service team will help.
Iron Heart is available at: Division Road (US), Franklin & Poe (US), Brooklyn Clothing (CA), Iron Provisions (US), and of course at Iron Heart International.
Learn more about Iron Heart in this brand profile—or find a pair with our Iron Heart Jeans Guide.
Indigofera
Hitting the Swedish spot
From their earliest pairs, this Swedish brand has prided themselves on their ends-of-the-earth search for the best selvedge denim. They just might have found it with their No. 2 selvedge, which Thomas swears by.
Their STPF (shrink-to-prima-fit) denims are prized for their incredible fading properties. If you haven’t experienced an Indigofera pair yet, their loomstate pairs will likely turn you into a lifelong fan.
Thomas owns several pairs in the brand’s No. 2 denim and wears them in a 32, while he typically wears a 31 in Indigofera’s sanforized jeans. Sizing up is the safer move here—but as always, confirm measurements and shrinkage with the retailer before buying.
Indigofera is sold at: Franklin & Poe (US), Iron Shop Provisions (US), Blue Beach Denim (Taiwan), and Manready Mercantile (US)
Stevenson Overalls
Best design details in the game
With vintage hound Zip Stevenson at the helm, it’s no surprise that this brand continues to offer fully dry and unsanforized versions of their popular cuts.
Deftly balancing traditional approaches with strikingly original details, Stevenson pairs are an excellent choice for those who want the best of the old and new worlds of denim.
Stevenson add a considerable amount to their rigid pairs to account for shrinkage (more than you’ll likely need if you’re trying to get them down to their tag size). Confirm with your retailer, but you’ll likely want to size down for a snug fit.
Stevenson is sold at: Redcast Heritage (ES), Cultizm (DE), Franklin & Poe (US), and Clutch Café (UK).
OldBlue
Putting Jakarta on the map
Closing out this list with our favourite Indonesian selvedge brand, which has started making inroads in North America and Europe thanks to their world-famous Heavyweight Beasts—a heavy and unsanforized pair that has long been a secret weapon for Indonesian faders.
The fades produced on this pair have, since its introduction in 2011, put the world on notice that not just the faders but also the brands in Southeast Asia are among the world’s best. They sell out quickly, but are worth waiting for.
The Heavyweight Beasts have been engineered to shrink down to their tag size, so you should be able to order in your typical size, but this is based on my experience with the brand four or five years ago. Before purchasing, confirm with the retailer that ordering your usual size will be your best choice with this pair.
What is Unsanforized Selvedge?
Sanforization is a chemical and mechanical process, invented in 1928 and patented in 1930 by American engineer Sanford Lockwood Cluett, who was trying to solve the problem of shrinking shirt collars (his family owned the firm that manufactured Arrow shirts).
Through a combination of heat, moisture, and pressure, fabrics are subjected to complementary processes of shrinking and stretching. The result is fabrics that shrink very little (usually less than 5%) when washed for the first time.
Blue Bell (later to be Wrangler) and Lee introduced sanforized workwear in the 1930s. Levi’s, though, held out for decades, finally introducing sanforization to some of their pairs only in the 1960s. The iconic 501 remained an unsanforized, shrink-to-fit product until the brand bowed to consumer pressure and began sanforizing them in the 1980s.
For a more detailed and technical explanation of sanforization, visit our Denim Encylopedia.
For decades, Levi’s marketed the bug of shrinking denim as a feature. To get the “perfect” fit, consumers would jump into the bathtub wearing their fresh and raw pair. This experience largely disappeared from the denim landscape until heritage enthusiasts, first in Japan and then in the rest of the world, resurrected it.
Today, sanforized denims are the norm, even among top-shelf heritage brands. Consumers are as panicky as ever about shrinking denim, so it’s expedient for brands and retailers to make and sell either pre-washed or sanforized pairs that will shrink only a marginal amount.
Still, some of us prefer unsanforized selvedge, finding charm in its appearance, feel, and performance. This is denim as its makers intended—the rough and unrefined combination of indigo and cotton. It’s something that needs to be experienced to be fully appreciated.
So which is better, sanforized or unsanforized denim? We weigh in on this question below.
Is Unsanforized Selvedge Better than Sanforized?
Denim purists, who tend to be allergic to innovations, will tell you that unsanforized selvedge is the only true denim–the closest you can get to the true-blue, mid-century original.
But this kind of uncompromising denim love isn’t just about historical fidelity. You get certain things with unsfanforized selvedge that you can’t get with sanforized or once-washed pairs: primarily character and handfeel.
Sanforization results in a flattened and smoothened denim. Unfanforized denim has more loft and a hairier look and feel. It’s really only noticeable from very close up, but the small difference makes all the difference for denim purists.
There’s also the fact that unsanforized denim shrinks a considerable amount. Those who’ve been around the block with unsanforized pairs will tell you that the shrink-to-fit process produces an unmatched fit in the top block.
The denim shrinks slightly more where it is loose and slightly less where it meets resistance around your hips and thighs. When you get the sizing and soak right, the result is a fit that feels tailored to your body. It’s enough to turn the first-timer into a lifelong convert.
Of course, sanforized denim has its benefits as well. It is far more predictable than its unsanforized cousin. Sanforized pairs tend to shrink somewhere in the range of 2-5%. This is roughly the same amount that they will stretch. Each time you wash the pair, it usually snugs up, returning to roughly the same size it was when you purchased it.
Unwashed sanforized denim shrinks somewhere in the range of 5-10% when introduced to water for the first time and will often continue shrinking for 2-3 subsequent washes. When it’s done shrinking, you can expect to have lost at least a full tag size in the waist and around 2-3 inches in the inseam.
Which is better? If you’ve never tried unsanforized denim before, the answer comes down to your risk appetite. Retailers and brands will not allow you to return pairs that have been soaked, so this is definitely one of those buyer beware moments.
If risk turns your stomach, stick with sanforized pairs (you’ll be spoiled for choice). If you’re willing to fly by the seat of your pants, you’ll be opening a door to some of the world’s most beautiful denims and best fits.
You can mitigate the risks by following the steps we outlined above. The more you know about the particular product you’re interested in, the more likely you’ll be to get exactly what you want out of your unsanforized pair. Do your homework and there shouldn’t be any surprises.
Complete the Vintage Look
Looking to complete the vintage look? Check out our guides to high-rise selvedge jeans and heritage chambray shirts.
Keep Track of What I’m Working On
I’m Thomas, founder of Denimhunters. Once a week, I send an email with what I’m working on and writing—new guides, deals, and things worth paying attention to.
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DENIM and PATCHES sourced this post originally published on this site