Tellason Jeans Explained: Fits, Fabrics, and What to Choose

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A Closer Look at the Kaihara Denims and San Francisco-Made Cuts That Define the Brand

At its absolute best, American workwear manages to both look and to be as tough as nails. When the legacy brands stopped using selvedge denim and moved their production overseas to inexpensive labour markets, they effectively surrendered to the idea that style and substance didn’t have to be connected in this way.

Tellason, founded in 2008 by Pete Searson and Tony Patella in San Francisco, the spiritual home of rugged American workwear, built their brand one pair at a time, always guided by the belief that style and substance can and should go hand in hand.

Their pairs, still made in San Francisco, can play in any position. If you’re hard on your pairs, Tellasons are tough enough to outlast just about anything. If denim is simply a style choice for you, you’ll find the cuts flattering and the denims unfussy yet beautiful.

Whether you’re looking for your first pair of well-made selvedge or just your next pair, you should familiarise yourself with Tellason’s popular cuts and denims. Below, we’ll introduce you to Tellason’s core selvedge denims, all milled in Japan, and their five best cuts, all cut and sewn in San Francisco.

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Which Tellason Selvedge Denim is Right for You? 

In the beginning, Tellason used American-made selvedge woven at the iconic White Oak Cone Mills plant in North Carolina—the same mill that produced selvedge denim for Levi’s and Wrangler in their selvedge heydays.

When the White Oak plant closed its doors in 2017, Tellason found a willing partner across the Pacific in Kaihara Mills. The Japanese mill produced a range of three proprietary selvedge denims for Tellason that have, ever since, served as the sturdy backbone for the American brand’s line-up. 

Since all of these denims are the same price, it really comes down to personal preference. What do you prefer? Comfort? Durability? Fade potential? A blend of all three? The best choice for you will depend on how you answer this question. 

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12.5 oz. Kaihara Mills Indigo Selvedge

Lightweight and highly versatile, Tellason’s 12.5 oz. indigo selvedge denim will be an excellent choice if you’re looking for comfort or ease of use. If stiff and uncomfortable denim is a deal-breaker for you, start with this one. 

While the heavier denims will be a better choice if you want sharp contrasts, Tellason’s lightest selvedge has a long history of producing beautiful fades. You’ll have to push it hard and keep it dry if you want to cut deep creases into it.

Choose the 12.5 oz. denim if you want the easiest-wearing Tellason selvedge, especially for warmer weather, travel, or everyday comfort.

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14.75 oz. Kaihara Mills Indigo Selvedge

While the Cone Mills selvedge denim that Levi’s used in their most iconic years tipped the scales at around 10 oz., denim reproduction specialists have largely gravitated towards slightly heavier selvedge denims, usually in the range of 14 oz., for their pairs.

It’s a popular choice for both brands and consumers, and it’s easy to see why. Easy to wear every day (especially when it’s been broken in), it’s the ideal choice for those who want that full raw denim experience, including unbeatable comfort that has to be earned.

An excellent choice if you’re planning to choose one of the slimmer cuts. The break-in period will pass quite quickly, and you can expect some eye-catching contrasts across the lap and behind the knees if you really push this pair. 

Choose the 14.75 oz. denim if you want the safest all-rounder in Tellason’s selvedge line-up.

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16.5 oz. Kaihara Mills Indigo Selvedge

Tellason’s flagship selvedge, this crispy middleweight denim has been behind the lion’s share of the incredible fades produced by Tellason fans over the years. A true legend in the scene, it’s earned its reputation and then some. 

If you’ve been drawn into the world of selvedge either by fades or the promise of more durable denims, this is definitely our top recommendation. With a long track record of rough use and abuse, this selvedge can handle whatever you can throw at it.

Choose the 16.5 oz. denim if you want the most iconic Tellason fabric, the strongest fade potential, and the pair most likely to reward hard wear.

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Five Popular Tellason Fits and Who They’ll Work For

Pete and Tony at Tellason have a preternatural gift for crafting eye-pleasing, flattering, and timeless cuts. It’s just one of the things that have made Tellason such a popular brand for newcomers—and why so many fans stick with the brand, pair after pair.

Here’s a look at five of what we feel are their best cuts. For each pair, you’ll find a few notes about which builds they’re best suited to. These aren’t hard and fast rules, but if you’re unsure which Tellason cut will work best for you, this should be a good place to start.

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Ankara (Straight Leg)

Best for athletic builds, boot guys, and classic straight-leg style.

Based on American classics from the middle of the twentieth century, the Ankara (named for the birthplace of Joe Strummer of The Clash) is Tellason’s take on the fit that turned jeans from workwear into a fashion staple in the 1950s. 

Unless you have very large legs, you’ll find the top block and thighs roomy and comfortable. Those with athletic builds—especially guys who aren’t afraid of the squat rack—will fill out the top half of the jeans very nicely. Very slim guys will likely find the slimmer cuts below more flattering.

Thanks to the wider leg opening, the Ankara fit pairs well with either lace-up or pull-on leather boots. Complete the look and keep things in the same spirit with a white tee and a Type III denim jacket. If you like tucking in your tees, this is definitely the right fit for you. 

If you like the room up top but want a slight taper instead of a straight leg, check out the Sheffield fit.

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John Graham Mellor (Slim Straight)

Best for slim builds and modern rugged style.

One of Tellason’s most popular cuts, the John Graham Mellor (the birth name of, you guessed it, Joe Strummer of The Clash), is a highly adaptable fit that feels both contemporary and classic.

The fit works best for guys on the slimmer side. Like most slim straight cuts, it can start to look and feel quite tight if you’ve got some meat on your thighs and hips. For those with slim legs, though, this fit will (particularly in the heavier versions) help you look a little more muscular.

With less of a leg opening to work with than you’ll find in the wider fits, the John Graham Mellor will work exceptionally well with lace-up boots or sneakers. For best results, pair this fit with a heavy flannel or a slim-fitting denim western.

If you like the slim-straight shape but prefer a mid rise, have a look at the Blubaugh fit.

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Ladbroke Grove (Slim Tapered)

A great fit for average builds and an unfussy casual vibe.

A modern cut that nicely follows the curves of most legs, the Ladbroke Grove (named for the London neighbourhood where Joe Strummer lived in his early days as a hell-raising musician) is an excellent everyman, everyday jean.

With the low rise, the Ladbroke Grove won’t do you many favours if you have a pronounced belly. Something with a higher rise will be a better choice. For just about everybody else, though, this fit looks lean, mean, and modern.

Lean into the casual vibe of this pair by pairing the Ladbrokes with sneakers and an untucked tee—the rise is too low to tuck anything into the waistband. It will also look excellent with comfortable leisure pieces like a sweatshirt or hoodie. 

If you like the slim tapered shape but want a mid-rise instead, check out the Elgin fit.

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Fredy (Wide Leg)

Best for big-legged gents or youthful street style.

Tellason’s newest fit was a response to a growing interest in wider cuts. Named for denim legend Fredy Vuille from VMC Originals in Zurich, the Fredy caters to hyper-stylish customers whose appreciation for baggy cuts has shown no signs of abating. It’s also a strong option for men with larger legs looking for something they don’t have to squeeze into.

The Fredy is definitely wide enough to accommodate tree-trunk-sized legs. The silhouette is nicely balanced, with a higher rise and generous top block, which combine for a very flattering and comfortable fit for bigger men.

With the higher rise, the Fredy will pair brilliantly with boxier above-the-belt pieces like the Type I or Type II jacket or chore coat. If you’re on the slimmer side, you’ll want to look for equally generous shirts and jackets to keep the proportions balanced and avoid looking like a Christmas tree. 

Thomas has also reviewed the Fredy fit in detail here.

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Gustave (Slim Tapered)

Best for slim builds and hard-nosed style.

Gustave takes its name from The Clash bassist Paul Gustave Simonon. The fit itself, though, came from Pete and Tony’s friend Brian Awitan, who sent them an altered pair of jeans with a sharp taper. They considered naming the fit after him, but Gustave became the safer choice.

This is the tightest pair in the Tellason line-up, but it’s not truly painted-on. If that’s what you’re after, you’ll find much tighter pairs on the market. For slim or skinny guys looking for a hard-nosed and rock-infused style, though, this pair’s likely got your name written all over it.

Lean into this pair’s rock-and-roll vibe with other slim-fitting pieces and black leather. If you’ve already got a motorcycle jacket and you’re looking for the perfect pair to wear with it, the Gustave will be a great choice. Slip-on boots will be a no-go, but this fit will work great with just about everything else. 

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A Quick Note on the Other Tellason Fits

We’ve focused on the five fits above because they cover most of Tellason’s range from slim to wide. Tellason also offers these three fits:

The Blubaugh is best understood as the mid-rise alternative to the John Graham Mellor. Both are slim-straight fits, but the JGM sits lower, while the Blubaugh gives you more rise.

The Sheffield is essentially the tapered alternative to the Ankara: mid-rise, fuller thigh, and a taper below the knee.

The Elgin does something similar for the Ladbroke Grove, giving you a mid-rise slim tapered fit rather than a low-rise one.

Tellason doesn’t publish full measurement charts on their own site, so if you think you’re between fits, reach out to them directly with measurements from a pair you already own and like.

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Good to Know When Buying Tellasons

Sizing and shrinkage: Tellason’s raw denim guide says that you can expect shrinkage somewhere in the range of 1–3%, meaning they’re likely to stretch more than they’ll shrink. Aim for a snug but comfortable fit.

Break-in and fades: Tellason’s lighter denims will naturally feel easier earlier, while the 16.5 oz. denim will ask for a little more patience at the beginning. None of the three are extreme by raw denim standards, so the choice should come down to how much structure, break-in, and fade contrast you want.

Care: Wash when needed. Turn them inside out, use cool water and mild detergent, and hang dry. Tellason also points out that skipping the commercial wash process is part of the environmental logic behind raw denim. The jeans arrive unwashed, and because most raw denim wearers wash less frequently, the impact is lower than heavily pre-laundered denim.

Hemming and repairs: Tellason offers complimentary chain-stitch hemming, including for pairs bought from other retailers. Worn jeans need to be freshly washed before you send them in.

Shipping: Tellason offers free domestic shipping on orders over $150, excluding Surplus Store orders. International shipping is available at a flat rate of $40, but customs and import duties are paid by the recipient and vary by country.

Returns and exchanges: Domestic returns and exchanges are free on regular-priced orders over $150, provided the items are unworn with tags attached. International customers are responsible for return and exchange shipping. Sale-section items are final sale, and all returns and exchanges must happen within 30 days of purchase.

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Learn More About Tellason

Tellason has been one of our favourite brands for years, so we’ve covered them frequently. You can find an in-depth look at the history of the brand here, and a look at what we feel are their five most iconic pieces here.

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