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A New Fit That Stays True to Tellason’s Roots
Skinny jeans have all but vanished from the denim landscape. And I don’t think anyone’s missing them.
Slimmer silhouettes will be back eventually, but for now, it’s refreshing to enjoy jeans that don’t feel painted on. Wider legs give us room to breathe, room to play, and ultimately a fit that looks better on basically anyone.
Tellason is not in the business of chasing trends. Since its founding in the late 00s, the ethos of the San Francisco brand has been simple: timeless fits, honest materials, and details that make sense. That philosophy hasn’t changed. But founders Pete and Tony do listen, and when customers started asking for a true wide leg, they responded.
New fits don’t come often from Tellason—which makes the Fredy worth paying attention to. What’s new here is not the denim (I’ll get to that later) or the details (reassuringly Tellason), but the fit. And that’s why it makes sense to start with that.
FIT
Wide Is the New Slim
Wide-leg jeans have been gaining ground for a while; first in women’s wardrobes and more recently in menswear.
In the raw denim niche, things move slower. Denimheads are rarely first-movers—if anything, they want clothes that feel proven, familiar, and timeless. In marketing textbooks, we would be late majority at best, but that’s a not bad thing.
Still, even in our niche of menswear, the tide is turning: skinnies are gone, regular fits are back, and looser cuts are in high demand. Retailers report they can’t keep wider fits in stock.
A New Chapter in Tellason’s Fits
The Fredy is Tellason’s first new fit in years, and the timing couldn’t be better. It’s the brand’s widest silhouette to date: a high rise with a true wide leg.
Tellason has always been conservative about fit development, with classic cuts like the straight leg Ankara and the slim-tapered Ladbroke Grove anchoring the range. The Fredy is a new chapter, but it still feels true to Tellason’s DNA.
That’s what makes the Fredy so interesting. It’s not just another fit—it’s the brand’s acknowledgement that this shift is real and lasting.
How the Fredy Fits and Feels
The best way to truly understand a fit is to see it on a body. For this review, Tellason sent me a size 33—the size my brother-in-law and go-to Tellason model, Frederik, wears in these.
He’s 191 cm (6’3”) tall and around 90 kg (just shy of 200 lbs), an ex-hockey goalie with proper thighs. At 27, he’s come of age in the skinny/slim era, and this is by far the widest fit I’ve ever seen him wear. But it suits him well.
The tagged 33 fit his waist as expected without sizing up or down from his normal jeans size in Western brands.
Measured flat (size 33):
- Leg opening: 25.5 cm. For comparison, Tellason’s Ankara in size 33 measures ~21.5 cm, and the Ladbroke Grove is just 18.5 cm. The Fredy is therefore significantly wider, both in absolute terms and in how it wears.
- Thigh: 35.5 cm, roomy but not overblown.
- Knee: 27.5 cm, keeps the line straight through the leg.
- Front rise: 32 cm total, with an extra-long section below the fly that changes how the rise sits on the body.
- Back rise: 44 cm.
- Inseam: 93 cm—Frederik needed a hefty, Japanese-style cuff.
When worn, it’s clear that Fredy is high-waisted—but it’s balanced with the rest of the cut. The extra length in the front rise—especially below the fly—shifts the proportions with a vintage-adjacent nod to 40s–50s workwear silhouettes without drifting into costume territory.
The thigh is accommodating, the knee holds the line, and the generous hem does the talking. Practically, the long inseam gives you options—hem for your exact break (that’s what I’d do) or embrace a full-sized cuff and show off the selvedge.
The result is Tellason’s widest fit yet, but it feels intentional rather than trendy. It’s not a novelty cut. It’s a grown-up wide leg that makes sense now—and will still make sense ten years from now.
FABRIC
From Cone to Kaihara
Tellason currently offers three core selvedge denims across the range: a lightweight 12.5 oz., a heavyweight 16.5 oz., and the midweight reviewed here at 14.75 oz.
All three selvedges trace their DNA back to Cone Mills White Oak in Greensboro, North Carolina—once the crown jewel of American denim.
Cone’s closure at the end of 2017 forced Tellason to rethink its sourcing. For a time, they worked through stockpiled rolls from White Oak, but eventually, like everyone else, they had to move on.
Rather than compromise, they turned to Kaihara in Japan, one of the world’s most respected selvedge denim producers. Pete and Tony didn’t just buy fabric off the shelf; they redeveloped their three signature denims from scratch.
The result is continuity with what made Tellason’s jeans special in the first place, combined with the kind of meticulous production you expect from Kaihara. You can read more about that transition in this blog post.
75/25 American/Australian—Blended for Strength and Character
The 14.75 oz. denim is woven from a blend of 75% U.S. cotton and 25% Australian. Using two origins of fibre is normal, and it shows Tellason’s intent: balance strength, staple length, and consistency.
The denim is double ring-spun—both the warp and the weft yarns are ring-spun—which means the yarn is stronger and has more character than open-end or even single ring-spun denims.
Run your fingers across it and you’ll feel that character immediately: A slightly coarse hand, the kind that promises subtle vertical streaks over time.
A Deep Indigo with Hints of Red Beneath
The yarns are rope-dyed in synthetic indigo, which is standard in modern selvedge production—and the best method for long-lasting fades.
While Tellason haven’t disclosed the number of dips (you gotta let them have some trade secrets), the outcome speaks for itself. The denim is saturated—so dark it borders on black at first glance.
Only under bright light do you begin to see its true depth; there’s a whisper of red cast beneath that dark blue surface.
It’s the kind of dye job that rewards patience: With wear, every crease will carve through those layers to reveal brighter blues underneath.
Midweight on Paper, Heavier in the Hand
On paper, 14.75 oz. sits comfortably in the “midweight” category. But in reality, this denim feels heavier—at least in its unworn state, which is what I’m testing.
That’s partly the density of the weave, partly the crispness of the finishing, and partly the coarser yarns. It’s heavy enough to satisfy denim traditionalists who want their jeans to feel substantial, but it’s not a punishing weight—you can wear these all year.
That balance is why this denim works so well for the Fredy. A wide leg cut demands a fabric that drapes with authority. Too light—lighter than the 12.5 oz. that it’s also available int—and it would look floppy; too heavy, and it would be cumbersome. 14.75 oz. hits the sweet spot, keeping the silhouette clean without sacrificing comfort.
Finishing That Improves Everyday Wear
Kaihara sanforizes, singes, and skews the denim. The holy trinity of fabric finishing.
The sanforization keeps shrinkage to a minimum, making sizing more predictable. Singeing burns off surface fuzz, which helps the fabric age with sharper contrasts. Skewing prevents leg twist—a detail you might not notice right away but that makes a difference in the long run.
These steps are practical rather than romantic, they show that Tellason prioritises jeans that wear well day in, day out.
The Result: American Spirit, Japanese Refinement
The story of this denim is one of continuity and refinement. From Cone to Kaihara, the fabric has kept its American spirit but been sharpened with Japanese precision.
The denim is dark, textured, and substantial, with the promise of dramatic fades down the road. In other words, it’s exactly the kind of cloth you’d want for a wide-leg jean designed to be lived in.
FEATURES
Familiar Tellason Details
If the fit is what sets the Fredy apart, the details are what make it feel distinctly Tellason.
The jeans are finished with the same care and intention that runs through everything Pete and Tony put out—nothing added for the sake of it, nothing left to chance.
Five Thread Colours, One Consistent Story
One of the standout aspects of the Fredy—and any Tellason jean—is the threadwork.
Tellason uses five different thread colours across the jeans: Pigskin (their warm tobacco tone), yellow (aka what I call ‘lemon’), navy, indigo, and charcoal.
The result is subtle from the front—mostly tobacco—but the back pocket alone shows the full palette. The double rows along the top-stitch feature both lemon and tobacco, while the “T” signature combines indigo and tobacco, anchored by blind bar tacks in charcoal.
The thread gauge is consistent and the SPI is kept even across the jean, but the play of colour gives them a layered character.
Like on the back pockets, the waistband and yoke also both feature the two-colour combo of lemon and tobacco.
Lastly, there’s the hem, which gets a small but clever twist: Tobacco on the outside, indigo on the inside. It’s a clean, modern detail that feels very Tellason.
Practical Choices That Put Fit First
Another decision that sets Tellason jeans—including the Fredy—apart is the yoke construction.
Tellason jeans are yoke-over-leg-panel, not the traditional leg-panel-over-yoke you’ll find on Levi’s and most other brands.
The reasoning is practical: It makes sliding your hands into the back pockets smoother, and, according to Pete and Tony, the jeans just fit better this way.
The outseam is sewn with a single lock stitch rather than a chain stitch, which is what purists might expect. But the choice was intentional (of course): A lock stitch is more durable, and with navy thread, it’s practically invisible from the outside, even when you “split” the seam.
The inseam and hem, however, are chain-stitched—the hem in particular gets that nice roping effect we denim fans chase.
Other small touches round out the construction: lemon overlocks on the fly, a diagonal top button stitch (instead of the familiar V-stitch), tucked belt loops, and deep, sturdy pockets. These may sound like minor details, but taken together, they speak to the brand’s consistent mix of utility and refinement.
Honest Hardware, Durable Labels, No Gimmicks
The hardware sticks to Tellason’s no-nonsense philosophy. Buttons and rivets come from YKK, with nickel-plated aluminium for the buttons and copper oxide finish on the rivets. They’re unbranded, which is a bit unusual but very deliberate: clean, timeless, and not tied to any specific era or logo trend.
The leather patch is from Tanner Goods—vegetable-tanned cowhide, extra thick and sturdy, with Tellason’s cowboy-inspired logo stamped into it.
You’ll also find the logo on the woven label that’s centred inside the waistband. Speaking of the inside, there’s also a care label that explains the fabric’s and the garment’s proud origins.
The pocket bags themselves are rigid, pre-shrunk 100% cotton at a hefty 8 oz., while the back pockets are reinforced with a lighter fabric, made of a cotton-poly mix to keep shrinkage in check.
Small Decisions, Big Payoff in Wearability
Put all of this together, and you get jeans that are quietly but carefully considered.
The stitching balances contrast and subtlety, the hardware is functional and honest, the labels and pocket bags are sturdy without being fussy.
You won’t find gimmicks here—just choices made to last. (Actually, there is one hidden feature on the jeans. I wouldn’t call it a gimmick, but it’s definitely got some humour, and I love it.)
Verdict: A Wide Leg Done Right, the Tellason Way
The Fredy shows that Tellason doesn’t chase trends—but it also doesn’t ignore the world outside its workshop. Pete and Tony heard the call for a wider leg, and they answered with one that feels both timely and timeless.
Everything about these jeans reflects Tellason’s approach: the cut is new but rooted in tradition, the fabric carries the brand’s DNA from Cone Mills through Kaihara, and the features balance utility with refinement. Nothing is showy, but everything makes sense.
This isn’t a fit that screams for attention. Instead, it’s the kind of jean that grows into your wardrobe and feels natural after a few wears. The wide leg isn’t exaggerated; it’s purposeful. The denim isn’t flashy; it’s substantial. The details aren’t gimmicky; they’re functional.
That makes the Fredy a safe bet for denim purists looking to try something looser without drifting into fashion-victim territory. And for those who’ve been waiting for a grown-up wide leg to pair with boots, sneakers, or just about anything—it’s finally here.
The post Wide on Time: Tellason’s New Fredy Fit Reviewed appeared first on Denimhunters.
DENIM and PATCHES sourced this post originally published on this site