DENIMandPATCHES

Denim Exhibition concluded successfully at The Lalit Ashok, Bengaluru on May 14–15, 2025. As one of the key global denim industry gatherings, the event brought together stakeholders across the denim value chain for two days of exhibition, knowledge sharing, and sourcing opportunities.

This edition was officially inaugurated with an opening Ceremony that underscored the significance of the denim sector in India’s textile and apparel landscape. The keynote address was delivered by Shri Kartikay Dhanda, Secretary of the Textiles Committee, Government of India. His remarks highlighted the government’s focus on sustainability, innovation, and export growth within the denim ecosystem.

With this meaningful opening, the stage was set for a two-day event marked by knowledge exchange, innovation showcases, and cross-industry collaboration.

A Theme Rooted in Fabric and Culture: “50 Shades of Denim”

This year’s edition was based on the theme “50 Shades of Denim , because one shade is never enough.” This theme is more than just about denim’s different materials. It also shows the diverse culture of India, where traditions, regions, and people come together in a colorful mix. Just like denim has many shades, textures, and finishes, India’s culture is full of variety too.

A Hub for Denim Innovation and Sustainable Solutions

The exhibition featured over 35 companies from India, Turkey, Italy, and more, showcasing a wide spectrum of products and processes from traditional craftsmanship to innovations in denim, including sustainable denim trends, laser finishing, low-impact dyeing, and circular materials.

The buyer turnout was a key highlight of the show, with over 1,150 visitors attending the event. The audience included sourcing and design teams from some of the most recognized global and Indian fashion and retail brands. Representatives from Shragatex, Quince, Gap, Levi’s, H&M, Pepe Jeans, Calvin Klein, Marks & Spencer, Ralph Lauren, Wrangler, Flying Machine, Spykar, ONLY, Mufti, and Myntra and attended the show, meeting with suppliers, exploring trends, and building future collaborations.

Their active engagement reaffirmed the event’s place among major global denim industry gatherings and its growing influence within the Asia-Pacific sourcing calendar.

At the exhibition, Denimsandjeans partnered with the Indenium School of Responsible Design to conduct a live workshop. This session provided attendees with practical insights into sustainable denim practices, bridging academic knowledge and industry applications.

Seminar & Panel Highlights

Key seminars and panels on sustainable denim, market trends, tech, and consumer insights were a major highlight. Check out the panel discussions below:

Circular Denim & Post-Consumer Waste Integration

The Evolution of Denim Culture – Identity, Expression, and Social Change

Tariffs and Their Impact on the Indian Textile and Apparel Industry

Navigating Innovation Through Changing Denim Trends

Indiwool: A Product of IIT’s Startup Ecosystem

The Trend Area – A Glimpse Into A/W 26/27 Denim Futures

One of the most engaging elements of the show was the Trend Area, curated and conceptualized internally by the Denimsandjeans team in collaboration with a global trend partner – WGSN. It spotlighted forecasted trends for A/W 26/27 denim fabric, wash, and finish directions, segmented into three key themes:

• Kintentional: Focused on restorative softness, abstract quilting, and meaningful slogans
• Geo-Logic: Showcasing cracked earth textures, geological dye effects, and frozen finishes
• Empowered Play: Highlighting expressive denim with playful graphics, metallics, and tailored touches

The space offered a hands-on experience for visitors to explore future market directions, sustainability-led innovations, and creative construction techniques in denim.

Stay Tuned: Denimsandjeans Vietnam – 25–26 June 2025

As we wrap up Denimsandjeans India 2025, we thank all participants and partners who made this edition a true success story in sustainable sourcing.

Join us at Denimsandjeans Vietnam, 25–26 June 2025 in Ho Chi Minh City. Click here to register for Vietnam Denim Show.

Stay tuned for updates on exhibitors, themes, and seminar schedules.

The post Denimsandjeans India 2025 – Denim Exhibition Report appeared first on Denimandjeans | Global Trends, News and Reports | Worldwide.

DENIM and PATCHES sourced this post originally published on this site

For over 70 years, Ramsons (India) has been a Pioneer in the Design & Manufacture of “Apparel Production” Equipment, Laundry Equipment (Wet & Dry Process Equipment) Storage Equipment, Leather Manufacturing Equipment, Sterilization & Medical Equipments and so on. As they join our D&J India show, we tried to understand from the CEO Mr Sunder Belani about their latest initiatives and specially those on sustainability . Here is an excerpt from the interview

Ramsons is a very old company Can you share with us the history and the major
milestones achieved in the company
Ramsons started its operations in 1950 and we have been one of the forerunners in Asia for
Sustainable Technology connected to Apparel and Textile Processing and Finishing.
In the 50s we started with an engineering workshop and started making Vacuum Ironing
Boards and Steam Pressing Equipment and Steam Generators in the 70s.
The Apparel Manufacturers then asked us to produce Laundry Equipment which we started
Manufacturing in the 80s which then started moving to Hotels and Hospitals too.
We then came into lot of International Joint Ventures in the 90s and have been
manufacturing proudly in India from over 50 years and exporting to over 40 countries since
our product range consists of over 100 sustainable products like Zero Emission Electrical
Steam Generators, (IBR / TUV approved ) Vacuum Ironing Boards With Low Power,
Automatic Form Finishers to reduce labour and carbon footprint.
We also produce low liquor ratio washing equipment, Washer Extractor with Recyclable
water tanks. We produce Ozone equipment to prevent anti back staining, bleach, reduction
of water, chemical and effluent.
In the Washer extractor, the Washex technology we have nebulizing which reduces effluent
by over 90% and reduces water, chemical and reduction of labour in the washer extractor
system.
We also have now developed acid wash using no chemicals and no water in the process
and we are now producing Low Liquor ratio garment dyeing machines using sprays.

What major product categories do you have as a machinery manufacturer
We manufacture equipment in the apparel chain and textile chain. Fabric is inspected using
Ramsons zero tension fabric inspection equipment with calibrated meters and relaxing
equipment for fabric.
Warehousing systems using RFIDS so that traceability which is the norm of the day is taken
care of.
We have finishing equipment which consists of Electrical, Diesel and Gas Fired Steam
Generators, Vacuum Boards and Bucks of all shapes and sizes.
Material Handling Systems, Automatic Finishing Systems, Fusing Equipment With Less
Power And Less Energy Requirement.
We also have automatic shirt folding equipment. We have needle detecting equipment. We
also manufacture turnkey laundry systems where we design, we install and we demonstrate
modern day sustainable laundry equipment that includes washers, hydro extractors. We
have automatic hydro extraction systems called the Presomatic. We have bag lifting hydro
extractors to reduce labour. Our Vertostar Equipment of washing equipment has jet spray
technology which reduces the liquor ratio to less than 1 : 3 . Our ozone machines ensure anti

back staining and bleaching using negligible or no chemicals and water, acid wash is also
now achievable through ozone technology. We have nebulizers with reduction of over 90%
in a new Washex technology. We have software that measures traceability in the entire
laundry chain. It’s called the ECOSOFT.

Sustainability is the major keyword today. How have you evolved your machines so
that the garment factories can  achieve the sustainable goals set by their buyers. 
The biggest consumer of energy in a laundry is the drying systems. We have developed auto
drying systems using conveyors both overhead and within closed chambers called the
Dryomatic.
The overhead is the conveyor drive, variable frequency drive. We use natural air, so 90% of
the drying is done through natural air and just for hand feel, is pushed into a tumble dryer.
The tumble dryer, now newly designed we have now a recyclable system to reuse the hot air
emanating for the tumble dryer, thereby reducing the energy by a further 30% in the tumble
dryer system.
In the dry process we have spraying systems with negligible use of PP and auto filling
systems which control the air pressures, we have a dual spray system which reduces the
effluent in a spraying machine, we also have robotic arms for abrasion on denim or any other
garment. These are controlled by PLCs, thereby ensuring accuracy in production and
reduction of skilled labour.

What are your key markets 

1. South East Asian Countries
2. African Continent
3. GCC Countries

What are your growth strategies for near future and how do are preparing for the
outcomes of the Tariff war going on

Our entire logo is now changed to Sustainable Thinking. The way thinking forward of our
think of our company and our product portfolio is going to be based on Sustainability
We have always wanted to give back to Mother Earth what we take from her, so we have
like in terms of water, we take clear water, clean water we want to give that back using
technologies which are not harmful at all to our planet.
Our Nebulizers, Low Liquor Ratio Machines (Go Green). Our Ozone equipment which
avoids chemicals and water for bleaches, Anti Back staining, acid washes and so on, our
reduction of energy in our drying systems of fabric and apparel.
Our finishing equipment like Steam Generators we have gone into production of electrical
steam generators. We are incidentally one of the Biggest Manufacturers of Apparel
Equipment (Not Traders) and in our meeting with Mr. Giriraj Singh, Ministry of Textiles he
was enamoured by the progress an Indian make in India manufacturing company has made
internationally in terms of technologies.

Our strategy is also to get into a tie up with Modern Day ZLD water treatment systems
because that’s the end line of our range and we want to cover the whole range of
sustainability.
We want to concentrate on recyclable energies, energy efficient drives and motors. We will
be concentrating on using inert gases into a paddle and fabric dyeing. Using more of ozone
and hydrogen processes to create effects so as to avoid the usage of Water, Chemicals,
Solvents and so on. This is a path we intend taking.

The post A Talk with Sunder Belani , MD, Ramsons | D&J India appeared first on Denimandjeans | Global Trends, News and Reports | Worldwide.

DENIM and PATCHES sourced this post originally published on this site

Fit Guide: The Weirloom WL-001 vs. Iron Heart 634, Tellason Sheffield, Samurai 510, and a Dozen More

When I decided to make my own jeans and launch Weirloom, I knew one of the first questions people would ask was: how does the fit compare to other jeans?

The Weirloom WL-001 is my idea of a true straight-leg fit: a natural rise, a leg that doesn’t taper too much, and just the right amount of room in the top block.

But instead of just telling you how it fits, I’ve done what I’ve always done in retail: compare the jeans to something you already know.

Maybe you love the Iron Heart 634 (like me), or you’re a fan of Tellason’s Sheffield, Samurai’s 510, Nudie’s Steady Eddie, Edwin’s Nashville, or any of the other jeans on the list below—which, by the way, are some of the jeans the first Weirloom customers have told me they wear and like.

This fit guide compares the measurements of the WL-001 to the following jeans: Iron Heart 634, Full Count 1108, Samurai 510, Japan Blue J401, Tellason Sheffield, Brave Star True Straight, Gustin Straight, Edwin Nashville, Nudie Steady Eddie, and not least Benzak’s B-02.

How I Measured the Jeans

Every pair in this guide—including my own—was measured flat using (more or less) consistent methods. For the comparisons, I’ve used size charts directly from the brand or a trusted retailer.

Here’s how I measure:

• Waist: Aligned the front and back of the waistband, then pulled taut and measured straight across, and doubled the measurement
• Front rise: From the crotch seam straight up to the top of the front waistband
• Back rise: From the crotch seam up to the centre back of the waistband
• Thigh: Straight across from the crotch seam (perpendicular to outseam)
• Knee: Measured 35 cm down from crotch seam, then straight across
• Hem: Straight across leg opening
• Inseam: From crotch seam to leg opening, following the contour of the leg

Most brands and retailers measure this way too—although some measure the waist a little differently. Some, like Nudie and Gustin, use different fixed points for thigh or knee.

What about sizing and grading?

To compare apples to apples, I selected the size in each brand that most closely matches the waist measurement of the Weirloom WL-001 in size 31. That’s the fairest way to compare fit, I think.

And regarding grading, it’s important to remember that not all brands grade sizes the same. Some adjust rise, thigh, and hem more or less aggressively than others as you go up or down in size. Please check the measurements twice when you compare to your size.

---

Iron Heart 634

The 634 is Iron Heart’s flagship straight-leg fit—mid-to-high rise, a comfortable top block, and a clean leg from hip to hem. It’s one of the best-balanced fits in modern denim, and it’s no surprise it’s become a go-to for so many.

I’ve worn the 634 myself for years, in several different fabrics, and I’d probably call it my all-time favourite fit—well, apart from my Weirlooms

Iron Heart 634 vs. Weirloom WL-001

The differences between the 634 and the WL-001 are subtle but noticeable. The WL-001 has a lower front rise and a flatter yoke, which shapes the seat a bit differently—giving it a slightly more modern silhouette. The thigh and knee of the WL-001 are a touch slimmer, but not dramatically so.

	WL-001, size 31	IH-634, size 33	Difference
Waist	84.0 cm (33.1″)	83.8 cm (33.0″)	–0.2 cm (–0.1″)
Front Rise	26.4 cm (10.4″)	27.9 cm (11.0″)	+1.5 cm (+0.6″)
Back Rise	40.0 cm (15.7″)	39.4 cm (15.5″)	–0.6 cm (–0.2″)
Thigh	33.0 cm (13.0″)	34.3 cm (13.5″)	+1.3 cm (+0.5″)
Knee	23.5 cm (9.3″)	24.1 cm (9.5″)	+0.6 cm (+0.2″)
Hem	21.0 cm (8.3″)	21.3 cm (8.4″)	+0.3 cm (+0.1″)

If you’ve worn the 634, you’ll feel right at home in my Weirloom jeans.

---

Tellason Sheffield

The Sheffield is Tellason’s core straight-leg jean—clean, durable, and proudly made in the USA. With a classic mid-rise, roomy thigh, and subtle taper, it’s long been a favourite among guys looking for a traditional fit that still works in a modern wardrobe.

Tellason Sheffield vs. Weirloom WL-001

Compared to the Weirloom WL-001, the Sheffield’s top block is a bit different, with a higher rise and slightly slimmer thigh. But the leg profile—especially from the knee down—is very similar.

	WL-001, size 31	Sheffield, size 32	Difference
Waist	84.0 cm (33.1″)	83.8 cm (33.0″)	–0.2 cm (–0.1″)
Front Rise	26.4 cm (10.4″)	28.6 cm (11.25″)	+2.2 cm (+0.85″)
Back Rise	40.0 cm (15.7″)	40.6 cm (16.0″)	+0.6 cm (+0.3″)
Thigh	33.0 cm (13.0″)	31.1 cm (12.25″)	–1.9 cm (–0.75″)
Hem	21.0 cm (8.3″)	20.3 cm (8.0″)	–0.7 cm (–0.3″)

If you’ve worn the Sheffield but wanted a little more room and a lower rise, you’ll like the WL-001.

In terms of sizing, the Sheffield runs about one size smaller than the WL-001, which means you need to size down 1 size from the Sheffield to the WL-001.

---

Full Count 1108

The 1108 is one of Full Count’s best-known fits: a modern slim-straight jean with a slightly higher rise and a clean taper. It’s designed with balance in mind—offering a slim silhouette that still feels wearable and classic, especially when paired with the brand’s famously soft denim.

Full Count’s denim is famously soft and comfortable from the first wear, which makes the 1108 a real “daily driver” for many guys. Here, I’m comparing to the one-washed version of the 1108.

Full Count 1108 vs. Weirloom WL-001

The WL-001 has a roomier top block and a straighter leg overall. The rise on the 1108 is a little higher, and the taper below the knee is more noticeable.

On paper, the thigh appears significantly slimmer—but that’s partly because Full Count measures the thigh 40 cm down the leg (rather than straight from the crotch seam like I do for Weirloom). This measurement method leads to a smaller number, even if the actual feel isn’t quite as extreme.

	WL-001, size 31	FC 1108, size 33	Difference
Waist	84.0 cm (33.1″)	84.0 cm (33.1″)	±0.0 cm (±0.0″)
Front Rise	26.4 cm (10.4″)	28.5 cm (11.2″)	+2.1 cm (+0.8″)
Back Rise	40.0 cm (15.7″)	39.5 cm (15.6″)	–0.5 cm (–0.2″)
Thigh	33.0 cm (13.0″)	*30.5 cm (12.0″)	–2.5 cm (–1.0″)
Knee	23.5 cm (9.3″)	22.0 cm (8.7″)	–1.5 cm (–0.6″)
Hem	21.0 cm (8.3″)	20.0 cm (7.9″)	–1.0 cm (–0.4″)

*Thigh measured 40 cm down from crotch on Full Count.

If you’ve worn the 1108 and liked the fit, but wanted a slightly lower front rise and a straighter leg, the WL-001 might be exactly what you’re looking for.

Full Count size the Japanese way, where the waist measurement equals the tagged size (more or less). That means you need to size down two sizes from the 1108 to the WL-001.

---

EDWIN NASHVILLE

The Nashville is Edwin’s classic straight fit—mid-rise, roomy without being baggy, and traditionally cut through the leg. It’s Edwin Europe’s last remaining fit from the original Japanese line.

I’ve worn the Nashville myself in the brand’s signature 14 oz. selvedge denim—those jeans are now retired as my painting pants. It’s a great, dependable fit with a bit of a rockabilly vibe, at least here in Scandinavia.

Edwin Nashville vs. Weirloom WL-001

The Nashville is sized right in-between the WL-001. The jeans I have are a size 30—but I could also fit a 31 for a more casual look, I guess.

In a size 30, the Nashville comes out a little slimmer than the size 31 WL-001. The thigh, knee, and back rise are all tighter than the WL-001, which makes the fit feel more … traditional. The WL-001 keeps a more modern seat and a balanced straight leg, while the Nashville leans vintage in its overall silhouette.

	WL-001, size 31	Nashville, size 30	Difference
Waist	84.0 cm (33.1″)	82.8 cm (32.6″)	–1.2 cm (–0.5″)
Front Rise	26.4 cm (10.4″)	26.0 cm (10.2″)	–0.4 cm (–0.2″)
Back Rise	40.0 cm (15.7″)	37.8 cm (14.9″)	–2.2 cm (–0.9″)
Thigh	33.0 cm (13.0″)	31.3 cm (12.3″)	–1.7 cm (–0.7″)
Knee	23.5 cm (9.3″)	22.7 cm (8.9″)	–0.8 cm (–0.3″)
Hem	21.0 cm (8.3″)	21.1 cm (8.3″)	+0.1 cm (±0.0″)

If you’ve worn the Nashville and liked its balance of room and classic shape, the WL-001 will feel like a natural progression—with a slightly cleaner seat and a modern take on the same tried-and-true straight silhouette.

The waist on the Nashville runs 3 inches larger than the tagged size (give or take), so you’ll need to size up one to the WL-001

---

BENZAK B-02

The B-02 is Benzak’s answer to a straight fit with a modern European touch—clean, unfussy, and built to flatter without restricting.

With a mid-to-high rise and a strong top block, it’s a cut to give you room where you need it while keeping things streamlined throughout the leg.

I’ve known and deeply respected Lennaert—the founder of Benzak—since he launched the brand back in 2013. Over a decade later, I’m following in his footsteps by launching my own jeans on a pre-order model. He’s been, and continues to be, a true inspiration to me.

Benzak B-02 vs. Weirloom WL-001

Side by side, the B-02 is a touch more structured up top and slightly slimmer through the leg. The rise is a little higher, and the taper from the knee down is more noticeable. The WL-001 keeps things more roomy and relaxed throughout the lower leg, giving it a slightly more balanced profile overall.

	WL-001, size 31	BDD B-02, size 31	Difference
Waist	84.0 cm (33.1”)	85.0 cm (33.5”)	+1.0 cm (+0.4”)
Front Rise	26.4 cm (10.4”)	29.5 cm (11.6”)	+3.1 cm (+1.2”)
Back Rise	40.0 cm (15.7”)	40.0 cm (15.7”)	0.0 cm (±0.0”)
Thigh	33.0 cm (13.0”)	32.0 cm (12.6”)	–1.0 cm (–0.4”)
Knee	23.5 cm (9.3”)	22.0 cm (8.7”)	–1.5 cm (–0.6”)
Hem	21.0 cm (8.3”)	20.5 cm (8.1”)	–0.5 cm (–0.2”)

If you’ve worn the B-02 before and liked its straightforward top block but want something with less taper through the leg, the WL-001 could be a smart next step.

The waist on both jeans runs about two inches larger than the tagged size (give or take)—whatever size you wear in the B-02, you’ll likely want the same in my jeans.

---

SAMURAI S510XX

The S510XX is one of Samurai’s most traditional fits—cut with a high rise, wide leg, and a slightly tapered but straight-feeling silhouette. It’s the kind of cut that pairs naturally with heavy-duty denim, and in the 21 oz. unsanforised version, it really leans into that rugged heritage appeal.

It’s a cut that’s evolved very little over the years, and for good reason: it’s built for movement, durability, and old-school denimheads who like their jeans full of character and comfort.

Samurai S510XX vs. Weirloom WL-001

Despite its reputation as a bold, traditional fit, the S510XX isn’t actually that far off from the WL-001. The rise is a little higher, and the hem slightly wider, but the differences in waist, back rise, and even the thigh are relatively modest.

	WL-001, size 31	S510, size 33	Difference
Waist	84.0 cm (33.1”)	83.5 cm (32.9″)	–0.5 cm (–0.2″)
Front Rise	26.4 cm (10.4”)	28.2 cm (11.1″)	+1.8 cm (+0.7″)
Back Rise	40.0 cm (15.7”)	39.4 cm (15.5″)	–0.6 cm (–0.2″)
Thigh	33.0 cm (13.0”)	31.9 cm (12.6″)	–1.1 cm (–0.4″)
Knee	23.5 cm (9.3”)	23.0 cm (9.1″)	–0.5 cm (–0.2″)
Hem	21.0 cm (8.3”)	21.6 cm (8.5″)	+0.6 cm (+0.2″)

The WL-001 feels a bit more streamlined through the seat and thigh, with a more modern shape overall—but if you’re used to the S510XX, the transition will feel natural.

The 510 runs small and follows traditional Japanese sizing—so you’ll likely need to size down two to get the right size in the WL-001.

---

JAPAN BLUE J401

The J401 is part of Japan Blue’s “Circle” line—developed with western body types in mind to create a more tailored fit, with extra attention paid to the shape of the seat and thigh.

This is a modern straight cut with some quirks: a high front rise, sculpted hip, and a bit more taper than you might expect in the lower leg.

Japan Blue J401 vs. Weirloom WL-001

Both jeans aim for a straight-leg silhouette, but the J401 is more structured in the seat and rise. It sits higher at the front and back, and the upper block feels tighter through the hips.

On paper, the thigh and knee look almost identical—but Japan Blue measures the thigh further down the leg, which may understate the actual width at the top block. In practice, the J401 feels more structured through the hips.

It’s also worth noting that the J401 has a zip fly—the WL-001 (and all other jeans on the list) have a button fly.

	WL-001, size 31	JB J401, size 32	Difference
Waist	84.0 cm (33.1”)	86.0 cm (33.9”)	+2.0 cm (+0.8”)
Front Rise	26.4 cm (10.4”)	28.5 cm (11.2”)	+2.1 cm (+0.8”)
Back Rise	40.0 cm (15.7”)	39.0 cm (15.4”)	–1.0 cm (–0.4”)
Thigh	33.0 cm (13.0”)	33.0 cm (13.0”)	±0.0 cm (±0.0”)
Knee	23.5 cm (9.3”)	24.0 cm (9.4”)	+0.5 cm (+0.1”)
Hem	21.0 cm (8.3”)	21.0 cm (8.3”)	±0.0 cm (±0.0”)

This is a solid comparison if you’re used to Japanese straights but want something that wears more balanced and neutral—without veering into vintage or workwear territory.

The J401 runs small so you’ll likely need to size down one to get the right fit in the WL-001.

---

NUDIE STEADY EDDIE

The Steady Eddie II is one of Nudie’s most popular fits—a relaxed, tapered jean with a clear Scandinavian touch. It’s roomy in the top block, offers a slightly higher rise than average, and tapers steadily from the knee down.

I wore Nudie jeans for years—my own pair of Average Joes (in the same Dry Selvage denim used here) now live in the archive at the Jeans School in Amsterdam. That fabric taught me the value of soaking unsanforised denim before wear.

Nudie Steady Eddie vs. Weirloom WL-001

The top half of these jeans actually lines up more closely than you might expect: the rise and thigh are only slightly larger on the Steady Eddie II.

But the Steady Eddie fit quickly tapers from the knee down, with a significantly slimmer hem and a narrower silhouette through the lower leg compared to the WL-001.

	WL-001, size 31	Steady Eddie, size 30	Difference
Waist	84.0 cm (33.1”)	84.0 cm (33.1”)	±0.0 cm (±0.0”)
Front Rise	26.4 cm (10.4”)	27.8 cm (10.9”)	+1.4 cm (+0.5”)
Back Rise	40.0 cm (15.7”)	39.6 cm (15.6”)	–0.4 cm (–0.1”)
Thigh	33.0 cm (13.0”)	31.7 cm (12.5”)	–1.3 cm (–0.5”)
Knee	23.5 cm (9.3”)	20.7 cm (8.1”)	–2.8 cm (–1.1”)
Hem	21.0 cm (8.3”)	17.6 cm (6.9”)	–3.4 cm (–1.4”)
Inseam	82.0 cm (32.3”)	81.2 cm (32.0”)	–0.8 cm (–0.3”)

If you want something with a similarly comfortable top block but a more traditional straight leg, the Weirloom WL-001 is the fit for you.

The Steady Eddie runs large in the waist—about three inches above the tag size—so you’ll likely need to size up one when moving to the WL-001.

---

BRAVE STAR TRUE STRAIGHT

The True Straight is Brave Star’s take on an American heritage straight fit—cut with a higher rise, balanced leg, and a classic seat that leans into the workwear roots of denim. It’s a clean and unfussy fit that feels timeless, not trendy.

I’ve followed Brave Star since they started, and the True Straight has always struck me as their strongest and most versatile fit. It’s slightly roomier than a modern slim-straight but much more wearable than most relaxed fits. It’s designed to be lived in, and it shows.

Brave Star True Straight vs. Weirloom WL-001

The two fits line up closely. Both offer a classic straight silhouette with a mid-to-high rise and just a touch of taper. The Brave Star fit has a bit more room in the thigh and a slightly higher rise, but otherwise, the two are remarkably aligned.

	WL-001, size 31	True Straight (size 31)	Difference
Waist	84.0 cm (33.1″)	85.1 cm (33.5″)	+1.1 cm (+0.4″)
Front Rise	26.4 cm (10.4″)	27.9 cm (11.0″)	+1.5 cm (+0.6″)
Back Rise	40.0 cm (15.7″)	38.1 cm (15.0″)	–1.9 cm (–0.7″)
Thigh	33.0 cm (13.0″)	29.8 cm (11.7″)	–3.2 cm (–1.3″)
Knee	23.5 cm (9.3″)	22.2 cm (8.7″)	–1.3 cm (–0.5″)
Hem	21.0 cm (8.3″)	20.3 cm (8.0″)	–0.7 cm (–0.3″)

If you’re used to the True Straight, the WL-001 will feel very familiar—just a little more modern through the seat and top block.

The Brave Star waist runs roughly two inches larger than the tag (just like the WL-001), so you’ll want the same size in both jeans.

---

GUSTIN STRAIGHT

The Straight is Gustin’s more modern straight-leg option—slightly slimmer than their Vintage Straight, but still cut with enough room through the top block and thigh to feel relaxed.

Gustin Straight vs. Weirloom WL-001

The WL-001 and the Straight from Gustin line up closely in the thigh and rise, but the Gustin fit tapers a bit through the leg and finishes with a slightly smaller hem.

	WL-001, size 31	Straight (size 32)	Difference
Waist	84.0 cm (33.1″)	83.8 cm (33.0″)	–0.2 cm (–0.1″)
Front Rise	26.4 cm (10.4″)	27.0 cm (10.6″)	+0.6 cm (+0.2″)
Back Rise	40.0 cm (15.7″)	38.5 cm (15.2″)	–1.5 cm (–0.6″)
Thigh	33.0 cm (13.0″)	33.5 cm (13.2″)	+0.5 cm (+0.2″)
Knee	23.5 cm (9.3″)	22.9 cm (9.0″)	–0.6 cm (–0.3″)
Hem	21.0 cm (8.3″)	20.3 cm (8.0″)	–0.7 cm (–0.3″)

Gustin size their jeans a little smaller than Weirlooms, so you’ll need to size down one from the Gustin Straight to the WL-001.

---

ONI 622

The 622 is one of Oni’s more modern tapered fits—mid-rise, narrow through the knee, and cut with a leaner silhouette than their more traditional cuts.

Oni 622 vs. Weirloom WL-001

Compared to the WL-001, the 622 is trimmer throughout. The thigh and hem are both noticeably narrower, and there’s a more aggressive taper through the leg. The front rise is quite similar, though the seat sits a bit closer.

	WL-001, size 31	Oni 622 (size 33)	Difference
Waist	84.0 cm (33.1″)	85.0 cm (33.5″)	+1.0 cm (+0.4″)
Front Rise	26.4 cm (10.4″)	27.0 cm (10.6″)	+0.6 cm (+0.2″)
Back Rise	40.0 cm (15.7″)	38.6 cm (15.2″)	–1.4 cm (–0.5″)
Thigh	33.0 cm (13.0″)	31.0 cm (12.2″)	–2.0 cm (–0.8″)
Knee	23.5 cm (9.3″)	21.9 cm (8.6″)	–1.6 cm (–0.6″)
Hem	21.0 cm (8.3″)	18.5 cm (7.3″)	–2.5 cm (–1.0″)

The 622 feels slimmer and sharper overall, while the WL-001 keeps a more balanced straight-leg silhouette.

Oni used Japanese sizing, which means the waist pretty much measures the tagged in incesh—and that means you need to size down two from the 622 to the WL-001.

---

ORSLOW 105

The 105 is orSlow’s most traditional fit, based closely on the 1960s Levi’s 501. It has a high rise, a slightly curved top block, and a roomy straight leg.

orSlow 105 vs. Weirloom WL-001

The 105 has a significantly higher rise than the WL-001, with a seat that scoops deeper and a looser fit through the top block.

The thigh is a bit wider, but the hem is nearly identical, giving the two jeans a surprisingly similar silhouette from the knee down.

	WL-001, size 31	orSlow 105 (3/L)	Difference
Waist	84.0 cm (33.1″)	85.0 cm (33.5″)	+1.0 cm (+0.4″)
Front Rise	26.4 cm (10.4″)	29.2 cm (11.5″)	+2.8 cm (+1.1″)
Back Rise	40.0 cm (15.7″)	42.6 cm (16.8″)	+2.6 cm (+1.0″)
Thigh	33.0 cm (13.0″)	34.5 cm (13.6″)	+1.5 cm (+0.6″)
Hem	21.0 cm (8.3″)	21.5 cm (8.5″)	+0.5 cm (+0.2″)

The WL-001 offers a more modern feel through the seat and rise—and orSlow uses a different sizing system.

---

LVC 1947 501 (Made in Japan)

The 1947 501 reproduction from Levi’s Vintage Clothing is a mid-century classic: higher rise, narrower seat, and a straight leg.

The ‘Made in Japan’ version is cut and sewn in Kojima, with high attention to detail and a distinctly rigid fit that breaks in over time.

LVC 1947 501 vs. Weirloom WL-001

The 1947 501 is narrower everywhere. The thigh and top block fit closer, the front rise is slightly higher, and the taper from knee to hem is more pronounced.

Compared to the WL-001, it feels more vintage and … restrictive—especially before breaking in. The WL-001 offers a more contemporary and wearable straight fit.

	WL-001, size 31	1947 501, size 34*	Difference
Waist	84.0 cm (33.1″)	85.0 cm (33.5″)	+1.0 cm (+0.4″)
Front Rise	26.4 cm (10.4″)	28.2 cm (11.1″)	+1.8 cm (+0.7″)
Back Rise	40.0 cm (15.7″)	38.7 cm (15.2″)	–1.3 cm (–0.5″)
Thigh	33.0 cm (13.0″)	32.3 cm (12.7″)	–0.7 cm (–0.3″)
Knee	23.5 cm (9.3″)	21.0 cm (8.3″)	–2.5 cm (–1.0″)
Hem	21.0 cm (8.3″)	20.0 cm (7.9″)	–1.0 cm (–0.4″)

*Measurements are estimated post-shrinkage.

The Japanese-made 1947 501 is unsanforized and will shrink as much as 10%. Plus, it runs small, so you need to size down at least two probably three sizes for the WL-001.

---

Naked & Famous TRUE GUY

Naked & Famous’s True Guy fit is their relaxed straight cut—high rise, generous seat, and a big 1950s-style top block. It’s one of their most comfort-focused silhouettes, typically paired with their signature heavyweight or novelty denim.

N&F True Guy vs. Weirloom WL-001

The True Guy has a significantly higher rise and a fuller seat. It feels almost oversized compared to the WL-001, especially above the knee. The hem is also slightly wider, giving it a blockier silhouette.

	WL-001, size 31	True Guy, size 31	Difference
Waist	84.0 cm (33.1″)	85.0 cm (33.5″)	+1.0 cm (+0.4″)
Front Rise	26.4 cm (10.4″)	30.5 cm (12.0″)	+4.1 cm (+1.6″)
Back Rise	40.0 cm (15.7″)	45.0 cm (17.7″)	+5.0 cm (+2.0″)
Thigh	33.0 cm (13.0″)	35.6 cm (14.0″)	+2.6 cm (+1.0″)
Hem	21.0 cm (8.3″)	22.3 cm (8.8″)	+1.3 cm (+0.5″)

The WL-001 is more balanced top-to-bottom, with a modern seat and just the right amount of ease.

The True Guy is sized similarly to the WL-001, so you probably need the same size.

The post How Weirloom Measures Up Against 14 Other Jeans appeared first on Denimhunters.

DENIM and PATCHES sourced this post originally published on this site

The denim industry is undergoing a powerful transformation driven by innovation, sustainability, and shifting global dynamics. As India solidifies its role as a denim and textile powerhouse, the 7th Edition of Denimsandjeans India, taking place on June 14 – 15, 2025 at The Lalit Ashok, Bangalore, offers the opportunity for professionals across the denim value chain to connect, learn, and grow.

Here are four key reasons why this edition is not to be missed:

1. Explore “50 Shades of Denim” – Our Official Theme for 2025

Denim is more than indigo, it’s a spectrum of textures, finishes, and creative expression. 

This year’s theme, “50 Shades of Denim: Because one shade is never enough,” showcases the evolution of denim through a curated display of innovations, from heritage washes and selvedge fabrics to futuristic coatings and sustainable blends.

Whether you’re a designer seeking inspiration or a brand exploring the next big trend, this immersive theme experience offers a visual and tactile journey through denim’s diverse landscape.

2. Insightful Panels and Keynotes: From Industry Leaders to Changemakers

The 7th edition of Denimsandjeans India will feature a series of panel discussions and keynote sessions, bringing together industry experts to discuss pivotal topics shaping the denim sector. Below are the scheduled sessions:

Topics will include:

• 14th May
• Circular Denim & Post-Consumer Waste Integration at 12:30 PM

Panelists:

• Mr. Nicolas Prophte, Denim Deal Steering Committee Board Member
• Mr. Ramjith M Pillai, Senior Venture Builder, Enviu
• Mr. Parvinder Singh, Founder-Director, Global Alliance for Textile Sustainability Council (GATS) & Aadi Sustainability Solutions Pvt. Ltd.

Moderator:

• Mr. Shrinivas Naik, Senior General Manager – Sustainability, Arvind Ltd.

• The Evolution of Denim Culture: Identity, Expression & Social Change at 17:10pm

Panelists:

• Ms. Prachi Sharma, Director Sourcing – Denim and Knits, Myntra
• Mr. Rajiv Bajaj, AVP, Pantaloons
• Mr. R V Subramaniam, VP Design, Mufti
• Mr. Raj Kishlay, Design Lead – Denim, Lee Cooper (Reliance Retail Ltd.)
• Ms. Nishi Vora, Director, Fashion Accessories India Pvt Ltd.

Moderator:

• Mr. Puneet Dudeja, Director – Business Development, South Asia, WGSN
  
  

• 15th May
• Navigating Innovations Through Changing Denim Trends at 12:00 pm

Panelists:

• Mr. Subir Mukherjee, Business Head, Bhaskar Industries
• Mr. Debashis Bhadra, VP – Product Development and Sourcing, Aditya Birla
• Mr. Alistair Williamson, VP – EMEA & South Asia, The LYCRA Company
• Mr. Sartaj Singh Mehta, Senior Director – Product & Design, Pepe Jeans London

Moderator:

• Mr. Rishi Suri, Business Development Director, The LYCRA Company

• Indiwool – A Product of the IIT Startup Ecosystem at 16:00 pm

Speakers:

• Mr. Satendra Singh, Founder & CEO, INDIWOOL Denim
• Prof. B.S. Butola, Faculty, Textile and Fibre Engineering Dept., IIT Delhi
• Mr. Rajiv Madan, Mentor and Advisor, IIT Startup Ecosystem

3. AW 26/27 Denim Trends Display : WGSN X D&J

As part of the event, WGSN will present an exclusive outlook for Autumn/Winter 2026–27 denim trends. The session will include not only visual forecasts but also physical sample references, offering early insights for product teams, designers, and developers working on long-term collections.

4. Meaningful Connections and a Memorable Experience

In addition to product showcases and trend zones, the show will host:

• Interactive workshops on sustainability, technology, and design
• Creative installations and denim art displays
• Networking lunch for engaging, casual conversations
• Evening mixers with music, food, and an energetic atmosphere

Whether you’re closing a deal or exchanging ideas over coffee, the show fosters connections that last beyond the event.

The Denimsandjeans India Show remains invite-only, with access extended to professionals in denim, fashion, textiles, and allied industries.

Register yourself for the event at this link.

The post A Preview of Denimsandjeans India 2025: Key Highlights & Agenda appeared first on Denimandjeans | Global Trends, News and Reports | Worldwide.

DENIM and PATCHES sourced this post originally published on this site

Answers to (Some of) the Questions I’ve Got About Weirloom—That You Might Have Too

Pre-orders are open on weirloom.com, people are actually buying these jeans … and questions are starting to come in.

Some are expected—about sizing, shipping, and returns. Others are more specific. If one person’s asking, chances are others are wondering too.

So I’ve pulled together a list of the most important questions I’ve been getting—and answered them as clearly and honestly as I can.

FAQS ABOUT THE JEANS

Why is the price shown as €250 €180?

That’s a fair question. And it’s not meant as a gimmicky discount.

€250 is what jeans of this quality and construction would typically retail for. Made in Europe from premium Italian denim, with the kind of details you normally only see on enthusiast-level jeans. That’s the reference point.

But because Weirloom works differently—pre-order only, small batch, no middlemen—I can offer them for €180 instead.

The reason I show both prices is simply that I don’t know a better, clearer way to communicate that difference. This setup is the easiest way I can show you what they’d normally cost—and what you’ll actually pay.

Which size should I get?

You don’t need to pick a size when you pre-order. Once you add the jeans to the cart, you’ll see it says “Pick your size later.”

That’s because the full size range and the grading of each size haven’t been finalised yet. Only size 31 has been prototyped. And until the fit is 100% confirmed, it doesn’t make sense to share measurements for other sizes.

I’ve added full measurements for that prototype to the product page. So if you want to get a sense of how they’ll fit, I recommend checking those out.

Once everything is locked in, I’ll reach out to everyone who’s pre-ordered to help choose the right size—and, of course, I’ll share size guidance and detailed measurements charts on the product page.. 

You’ll probably need to measure a pair of jeans you already own and compare that to the final sizing chart I’ll send. I’ll guide you through the process personally to make sure you get the best possible fit.

Also, just to clarify: the sizing is based on Western brands—not Japanese. I’ve done that to make it easier and more intuitive for most people to find their size.

How heavy is the fabric? Are they stiff?

The denim is 14.25 oz., which puts it right in that sweet spot—heavy enough to feel substantial, but not so heavy that they’re a pain to wear.

And no, they’re not that stiff. The jeans are washed once after sewing, so breaking them in is easy. You’ll still get beautiful fades over time, but with comfort from day one.

So will they fade?

Yes. You’ll absolutely get fades.

Even though the jeans are one-washed to soften them up, they’re made from a denim that fades beautifully with wear.

The denim is from Candiani in Italy, dyed using their proprietary Indigo Juice method. It’s a modern take on slasher dyeing that puts more of the indigo on the surface of the yarn—which means it fades faster and with more contrast.

Plus, the denim has some visible texture and slubbiness, which helps create the kind of fades we denimheads look for.

FAQS ABOUT THE PRE-ORDER

Will my card be charged right away?

No. When you place a pre-order, your card won’t be charged—and the money won’t be held or reserved either.

You’ll enter your payment details to complete the pre-order, but the charge won’t go through until the jeans are ready to ship. That’s when I’ll manually confirm and collect the payment. Until then, it just sits as a pending order on my end.

In short: no money leaves your account until the jeans are on their way to you.

Can I cancel my pre-order before the jeans ship?

That’s no problem at all.

If you decide to cancel your pre-order before the jeans ship, you can do so easily and for free. Just find the confirmation email you received from Purple Dot (the system handling the pre-orders) and click the cancel link. That’s it. No payment, no hassle, no hard feelings.

You’ll also hear from me directly before the jeans are ready to ship—so you’ll have plenty of time to ask questions, get sizing help, or change your mind if needed.

When will the jeans ship?

If everything goes according to plan, the jeans will ship by the end of June. That’s the schedule confirmed by my production partner in Portugal, and we’re working hard to keep it on track.

I’ll keep all pre-order customers updated along the way.

Can I return the jeans if I change my mind after they ship?

Yes. Just like any online purchase, you’re entitled to return the jeans within 14 days of receiving them. That’s not just a policy—it’s the law under Danish e-commerce regulations.

These aren’t made-to-measure or customised jeans. They’re made in standard sizes, so even though they’re produced on a pre-order basis, they’re still eligible for returns. No questions asked (though I’d love your feedback if you decided to return them).

What if they don’t fit? Can I exchange to another size?

Fit is a big deal. And even though I’ll help guide you the best I can to pick the right size before the jeans ship, there’s always a chance you’ll need to exchange them for another size.

That’s why I’m holding back a few pairs from the initial 100—to make sure I can handle size swaps. There might not be every size available in every quantity, but I’ll do everything I can to make sure you end up with the right fit.

Are there really only 100 pairs?

Yes. This isn’t a marketing gimmick.

One hundred is the minimum order quantity my Portuguese manufacturer was willing to produce—and it’s generous, honestly. Most factories require much larger runs, but they believe in the idea and wanted to support the launch.

There’s no secret stash waiting in the wings. I’ve already bought the denim, and it’s already at the factory in Portugal. Once those 100 pairs are spoken for, that’s it for this first edition.

Will there be more later?

Yes. This is just the beginning. I’m not planning to make only 100 pairs and call it a day—this is the first step in what I hope will grow into something lasting.

That said, this first batch is a rare opportunity. I was lucky that the denim I wanted was available in just the right amount for 100 pairs. Future production will require me to order enough fabric for at least 500, which means the next pre-order will likely be bigger. Still limited—but not quite this exclusive.

So yes, more will come. But there will only ever be one First Edition

When is the order deadline?

Soon. To keep things on schedule for that end-of-June delivery, I need to close the order window before the end of May.

And just to be clear: there are only 100 pairs (included the ones I’m holding back for size swaps). Once those are spoken for, that’s it for this batch. So if you want to secure a pair from the very first Weirloom run, now’s the time.

If any of these answers helped you feel more confident about Weirloom—or if they just made you more curious—you can see the jeans and pre-order your pair below.

The post Got Questions About My Brand, Weirloom? This FAQ Might Help appeared first on Denimhunters.

DENIM and PATCHES sourced this post originally published on this site

How to Wear a Denim Jacket with Selvedge Jeans

Denim jackets and selvedge jeans are like lemonade and iced tea. They’re great on their own, but put them together and the mixture reaches new heights. In our books, wearing two pieces of denim at a time is not just an acceptable way to wear denim—it’s the best way to wear it.

Of course, we need to approach the combination with a degree of caution. Stacking denim pieces on top of each other without considering the overall effect we’re creating can quickly turn a stylish combo into a caricature.

Thomas and I have both been practising double denim for decades, and we’ve worked up a list of pointers that will help you do double denim the right way and avoid some of the commonly encountered pitfalls that come with the territory.

As with all our advice, you can take some and leave some. If you’ve found something that works for you that goes against what we suggest below, fill your boots. Dress in the ways that feel right to you. If, however, you’ve been looking for advice on double denim styling, the tips below should help.

Don’t Have a Denim Jacket Yet?

Before you get too deep into the double denim weeds, make sure you’ve got the right jacket. We’ve rounded up our top picks in the Raw Denim Jacket Buying Guide. Every jacket on the list is built to fade and made to last.

---

Tip #1: Choose Your Weapon Wisely

There are plenty of brands that produce entirely unique denim jackets—Tellason’s Coverall Jacket and RGT’s Supply Jacket spring to mind—but the vast majority of selvedge denim jackets on the market are based on a trio of Levi’s jackets that spanned roughly a century of the brand’s history.

Here’s a very brief look at each of these: 

Type 1

Based on Levi’s oldest riveted denim jacket, which was probably first manufactured around 1880, made its official debut in 1905. A pure and iconic piece of American workwear that, like the 501, helped build the West.

Key features are the single, low chest pocket (either open or with a flap) secured with rivets, the back cinch, the pleated front, and the extremely boxy fit. Perfect for heritage enthusiasts trying to recreate truly classic workwear looks.

Type II

The updated version of Levi’s denim jacket first appeared in 1953, and is perhaps best remembered as the denim jacket worn on screen by Elvis Presley (Martin Sheen wore it equally well in Badlands).

The Type II only lasted a decade, but it made a strong impression. It’s now enjoying a modern-day resurgence. 

Key features are the waist tabs, the symmetrical chest pockets reinforced with bar tacks under the button-down flaps, the waist adjusting tabs at the waist, and the knife pleats on the chest.

Like the Type I, the fit is boxy, though some modern brands offer longer, slimmer-fitting versions, occasionally with added handwarmer pockets.  

Type III

Introduced in 1962, the Type III was a slimmed-down and aggressively styled version of the denim jacket that became both a cultural and counter-cultural touchstone in the decades that followed its release. 

The key features are the higher chest pockets, which, like the triangular stitching and angled button-down flaps that sit on top of them, point downwards, creating a slimming effect and drawing the eye down the body towards the waist.

Handwarmer pockets were added in the ‘80s, the merits of which are still hotly contested by heritage enthusiasts (I’m firmly against them).

Other Notable Denim Jackets

Of course, these are not your only options. Lee’s Rider Jacket (including the blanket-lined Storm Rider) and Wrangler’s 124MJ are stylish workwear icons with a rich and storied history.

There are excellent modern jackets inspired by Lee and Wrangler’s mid-century jackets, and there are just as many great jackets inspired by other lesser-walked avenues of classic workwear. Before buying, do a bit of research.

The perfect denim jacket is the one that’s the perfect fit for your body type and your personal style. Remember, if you choose your weapon wisely, you’ll only need one. 

One Denim Jacket to Rule Them All

Not sure whether you’re a Type I, II, or III kind of guy? We break them all down (plus the worthy alternatives) in our Raw Denim Jacket Buying Guide. Find your fit—and your forever jacket—here.

---

Tip #2: Two’s Company, Three’s a Crowd

We all love denim, but we’ve got to apply the brakes at some point. Two denim pieces can play off each other beautifully, building on each other’s strengths.

When we introduce a third piece of denim to the mix, though, the happy and stylish union begins to fracture. Three or more pieces of denim are more a caricature of denim love than an elegant expression of it.

For this reason, we see denim shirts and denim jackets as an either/or style choice. When looking for a piece to wear with jeans and your denim jacket, instead of denim, consider one of the following: 

Our Favourite Tops to Break Up Double Denim Looks

1. Tee/Henley – It’s impossible to go wrong with a loopwheeled cotton basics in light colours. You’ll find some of our favourites here. Nothing pairs as perfectly or as easily.
2. Jersey Knits – Pick your poison. The classic sweatshirt is our favourite, but hoodies (either with or without zips) lend the jacket a semi-athletic, casual vibe. 
3. Chambray – Versatile and comfortable, chambray shirts are soft enough to wear comfortably under denim jackets, and they look equally good tucked or untucked.
4. Flannel – Heavy flannels and denim jackets are fast friends, but be careful with the length. Long flannels will leave a mile of fabric below the jacket. They tend to work better with denim chore coats than with traditionally cut denim jackets.

Break Up the Denim Party

Looking for the perfect piece to slot between your jacket and jeans? Whether it’s a loopwheeled tee, a rugged henley, or a heavyweight flannel, we’ve got full guides to help you find the best options. These layers aren’t just filler—they’re the glue that holds the look together.

---

Tip #3: Heritage Brands Beat Legacy Brands

Levi’s, Lee, and Wrangler all have rich histories, and all of them can claim without blushing that, at some point or another, they made the world’s best denim jacket. As denim became a global style commodity, though, they needed to find a way to keep up with surging demand.

They switched from selvedge denim produced on shuttle looms to denim produced on projectile looms. This allowed them to produce more denim faster, but they lost something in the process.

Japanese brands (spurred on by ravenous Japanese collectors) preserved selvedge denim as a kind of slow-manufacturing art form. Ever since, the world’s best denim has been produced in Japan.

Legacy brands still produce extremely popular versions of their iconic denim jackets, but heritage brands’ tributes to these classics are better than the real thing. They cost more, but they’re worth every penny—especially if you wear the hell out of them.

Brands That Nail the Details

If you want your jacket to actually age well, look to the brands that put fading front and centre. We’ve got dedicated buying guides for Iron Heart, Samurai, and Full Count—each with a slightly different vibe, but all built for the long haul.

---

Tip #4: Contrast is King

There are two different schools of thought with styling double denim. The first is to match the jacket as closely as possible to your jeans, treating the jeans and jacket like a matching suit. When buttoned up, this produces a kind of head-to-toe colour consistency that some people seem to enjoy.

It’s undeniably a classic workwear look, but Thomas and I both feel that the matchy-matchy style makes you look too much like a gas station attendant. It’s our advice to introduce some contrast to your outfits.

If both your jeans and jacket are dark, wear something between them that brings some sharp contrast to the outfit. A dark blue or black tee won’t do the trick. Go with something white or light grey under an open jacket.

Best of all is to have some contrast between the jacket and the jeans. If the jacket is crisp and raw, pair it with a fully faded pair of jeans and vice versa. There are also some stellar denim jackets in lighter denims that are still raw.

Another combination that works exceptionally well is to introduce some duck canvas to the mix.

Duck jackets look absolutely incredible when paired with jeans of just about any colour—and if you want that new selvedge denim jacket to really pop, try pairing it with Iron Heart’s 17 oz. duck Type III. The combination is a guaranteed stunner.

---

Tip #5: Don’t Pack it In, Let it Breathe

With its roots firmly in the world of workwear and westernwear, the denim jacket was designed with working men in mind. It is meant to move with you, to aid the working man, not to hinder him.

No matter what you wear under it, the denim jacket should slide on relatively easily. It should both look and feel comfortable. You should, for example, be able to change a tire or mend a fence without removing it.

Yes, when it is brand new, the jacket will feel stiff. It will need some work before it will move easily. It should never, though, make movement difficult or impossible.

When sizing, leave yourself some room in the chest and arms. When styling, don’t pack it so full of layers that it strains the seams whenever you flex your arms.

Even if you never do any dirty work, pick a jacket that feels like you could work in it. If you look free and comfortable, you look good. 

---

Tip #6: Earn Your Layers

Jeans jackets can absolutely be incredible layering pieces, either as the last layer or a middle one. If you want to use it as a middle layer, though, there’s a catch. You need to earn the right.

When they are new, raw denim jackets are simply too stiff to be used as a middle layer. They look and behave like outerwear, so they should be worn as the outermost layer.

When we’ve fully broken them in, though, they can play in almost any position. Beat some of the blue out of it and you’ll earn the right to wear your denim jacket like a shirt, an overshirt, or as outerwear.

Built to Fade, Made to Layer

Breaking in a raw denim jacket is a rite of passage—and once it’s softened up, the styling possibilities explode. If you haven’t picked your jacket yet, our Raw Denim Jacket Buying Guide will help you find one worthy of years of wear.

---

Tip #7: Watch Your Waist

When the Type I and Type II were introduced, men wore their trousers much higher on their body than they do now. This means that heritage-minded denim jackets tend to sit quite high on the body.

If you wear your jeans low on your hips, this might create some issues (especially if you have a long torso).

Ideally, the jacket should, when your arms are down at your sides, cover your belt line. Whatever you’re wearing it over, you shouldn’t have more than an inch or so of fabric hanging below the jacket.

To skirt your way around the issue, if you’ve got a traditionally cut denim jacket, pair it with mid-rise or high-rise jeans. Alternatively, you can look for longer-bodied chore coats or longer, modern takes on the classic denim jackets.

---

Tip #8: Make It Entirely Your Own

When those fades start to emerge, the jacket will start to look dramatically different from the ones that are hanging on racks and in store windows. This is the absolute best way to make a jacket our own—by wearing it so much that it starts to say something about both our style and our lifestyle.

Even before this, though, we can do small things to make the piece uniquely our own. Pins and patches will help separate your jacket from others that might look just like it, and they also help us broadcast something about our tastes, allegiances, or affiliations.

Embroidery, especially when guided by a skilled hand, can turn a simple jacket into an eye-popping work of art. 

Chain stitch embroidery might be something simple like your name or nickname over your heart, or it could be a colourful back piece. Either way, it’s a massive style upgrade, and it’s well worth the investment. 

---

Tip #9: Collars Up! 

Join the ranks of Rugged Royalty like Robert Redford, Elvis Presley, Eddie Cochran, and Dennis Hopper by turning up the collar of your denim jacket.

The jean jacket has an in-built rebellious streak, but you’ve got to lean into it by wearing it a little askew and a little haphazardly.

Denim jackets made from raw denim have a big advantage in this department. The stiff denim stands up straight for much longer.

Even when nicely faded, the collars stand at attention when flipped, creating a pleasing vee shape that lengthens the neck and frames the face very nicely.

Like Sinatra’s cocked hat, the flipped collar is a touch of personalisation that makes even a brand new jacket look uniquely your own. The only thing to it is to do it—and to own it. Lift your chin and make it clear that your collar isn’t just flipped. It’s flippant. 

---

Tip #10: Dress it Up, If You Dare

For adventurous dressers, the Type III can absolutely stand in for a blazer or a sports jacket.

Worn over a shirt and tie, well-made denim jackets can look exceptionally sharp. Either with double denim or with dressier trousers, the bold combination demands attention.

The look is at its sharpest when the jacket is closed. Leave a button or two undone at the top so that you’ve got a bit of a triangle to work with—just like you would with a blazer.

Especially if you’re wearing lower-rise jeans, keep the jacket on and buttoned to keep your waistline out of sight. 

The tie seems to be the linchpin of the ensemble. Without it, the dress shirt and the denim jacket seem ill-suited for each other. With it, everything hangs together brilliantly.

---

Tip #11: Be Monogramous

Just as with jeans, it’s not uncommon for denimheads to have a few great pieces from some of their favourite brands that are fighting for supremacy in their wardrobe.

If it’s in your nature to be sartorially polygamous, by all means rotate through your collection and continue adding new ones that catch your eye.

However, in life and in style, the most deeply satisfying relationships are monogamous ones. Denim love shared is denim love divided.

To properly fade a jacket, it needs to be your one and only. It needs to sit at the centre of your collection and, indeed, your life.

If you want to bring the best out of a jacket, settle down with one. Move in with it. Build a life together. If you don’t feel that any of the jackets in your collection are worthy of this kind of focused attention, splurge on one that is. 

When you’ve got that love match, remove temptations. Put all those jackets to one side, where they can wait until you’ve done justice to that worthy piece.

All the jackets in our Raw Denim Jacket Guide are made to be lived in. Pick the right one, wear it as much as possible, and let it become a reflection of what you do and who you are. That’s what the best jackets do: they tell your unique story in scars and stitches.

---

The Perfect One-Two Combo

The advice above covers how to wear double denim right. If you’re looking for advice on what to wear, check out our Selvedge Masterlist and our Raw Denim Jackets guide. 

To get the latest news on what we’re wearing and watching, sign up for our newsletter here.

The post Double Denim Done Right: 11 Style Tips That Actually Work appeared first on Denimhunters.

DENIM and PATCHES sourced this post originally published on this site

D&J-Denimsandjeans is thrilled to welcome Chanel Merchants to the 7th edition of our Bangalore show on May 14-15, 2025! In a brief conversation, we gained valuable insights into their presence in India and their work. Chanel Merchants is poised to make a significant impact in the Indian market, and we’re excited to see their offerings at our event.

Chane Merchants have integrated operations with in-house design, production & packaging along with experienced team serving global brands. Quick response vendor with low MOQs & short lead times. Strong design team offering seasonal trend-driven collections.

Please share some details about the background of your company .

Chane Merchants Private Limited was setup in Ahmedabad, India in 2023 with the aim of manufacturing quality denim garments for Indian brands and big box retailers. We specialise in high fashion and quick response.

We have a strong leadership, planning, production and merchandising team with over 50 years of combined experience of dealing with top international brands and retailers like Levis, Cotton On, Woolworths, Polo (SA), TFG group (SA) etc. We have started off with a monthly capacity to produce 45000 units a month with an expansion plan to get to 125000 units a month by the end of FY 2025-26

Why did you plan to come to India for manufacturing jeans ?

Retail in India has evolved substantially over the last decade or so.  The market which was essentially unorganised stand-alone mom and pop stores has been completely disrupted by organised players like Reliance, Myntra, Aditya Birla, Tata etc.

However, manufacturing in India still remains pretty much fragmented and unorganised, unable to cater to the demands and pace of organised retail. We feel there is a deep vacuum for organised manufacturing with proactive product development, strong merchandising and great production planning and we are here to fill that vacuum

What do you think is more imp- the local market in India or the export market ?

Both markets are important because there is a merit to having customers with varying annual shopping seasons and trends.  While it maybe a Diwali or Eid or Durga Puja in India, its Christmas and Easter overseas.  Having both domestic and export buyers helps a manufacturing unit mitigate the risks of seasonal buying and capitalise on varying buying trends.

The post A Conversation With Chaitanya Dalvi – CEO, Chane Merchants appeared first on Denimandjeans | Global Trends, News and Reports | Worldwide.

DENIM and PATCHES sourced this post originally published on this site

Launching Weirloom with 100 Jeans on Pre-Order

For years, people have asked me the same question: “When are you going do your own brand, Thomas!?”

I usually shrugged it off with something like, “One day, maybe.” But the truth is, I’ve been thinking about it for as long as I can remember.

And now, after more than a decade of writing about jeans, guiding people toward the right fit, and working behind the scenes—I’m doing it!

It’s called:

I want to put all of my denim knowledge into a product of my own. Something I can stand behind completely. Something that can grow slowly and honestly—without compromise.

I want to make garments that can be future wearable heirlooms: garments that’re made to be worn, made to last, and worth keeping—made to be passed on someday.

Doing Things Differently For a Reason

Most jeans are made to hit targets. They’re priced with hefty markups to cover future discounts. They’re produced in large volumes that brands hope (but don’t always expect) to sell. And when something doesn’t move quickly enough, it’s marked down. Then more is made to fill the shelves again.

It’s a cycle that leads to waste—of resources, money, and meaning. Some brands, especially in the raw denim scene, have been rethinking how clothes get made—using pre-orders, made-to-order, and slower, more deliberate production. That’s encouraging.

Weirloom is my take on the solution. A personal response to a system I’ve seen up close for years. A way to do it differently—with intention, transparency, and care.

It starts with a single pair of jeans, limited to 100 pairs, and produced based on pre-orders.

What Makes Weirloom Different?

Fair question. I’ve seen enough jeans—worn enough of them, too—to know that good ones don’t need to shout. They need to fit right, wear well, and be worth what you paid for them.

The first Weirloom jeans have a straight-leg, mid-rise fit. It’s my ideal everyday pair—simple, timeless, and made to be worn a lot. Not too slim, not too loose. The kind of fit that works on real bodies in real life.

The denim comes from Candiani in Italy, one of the most respected mills in the world. It’s 14.25 oz. selvedge, woven on shuttle looms, and washed once for softness and practicality. You’ll still get great fades, I promise.

The cotton is regenerative. That means it’s farmed the old-school way, with crop rotation and without synthetic fertilisers or pesticides. It’s better for the soil, better for the environment, and better for the future of denim.

As for the details, every one of them is chosen with purpose:

• Chain-stitched hems
• Tucked belt loops
• Punch-through copper rivets
• Heavy-duty pocket bags
• Blind bartacks

There’s a selvedge detail inside the button fly, and a peek-a-boo on the coin pocket. They’ve also got labels made of recycled materials, and biodegradable patch. All the things you expect.

What’s truly different than most, though, is that these jeans are produced on pre-order. This way, there’s no inventory to clear, no rush to discount, no overproduction. Just (some really good) jeans for people who (actually really) want them.

Now Taking Pre-Orders! Want the Link?

If you think this is a pair of jeans you need in your life—if you want one of the first 100 pairs of Weirloom jeans, the pre-order is open!

To get the link, just enter your email below and you’ll be redirected to the page.

I’ll also send you the link in an email. You’ll be subscribed to my new Weirloom newsletter and the Denimhunters newsletter (if you aren’t already). Don’t worry—you can unsubscribe at any time, no hard feelings 

The post I’m Starting a Jeans Brand That’s NOT Business as Usual appeared first on Denimhunters.

DENIM and PATCHES sourced this post originally published on this site