DENIMandPATCHES

Did you know that the average American owns seven pairs of jeans? And odds are some of those jeans aren’t wearable. But if you just can’t bear to get rid of your jeans, you can turn them into a denim quilt.

Denim quilts are a fantastic way to reuse your old jeans, especially if you can’t wear them anymore. If you want to refresh your denim collection, you should make a denim quilt.

A NEW WAY TO QUILT?

 

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If you’re a denim fanatic, you probably have a vast collection of jeans and other denim items in your closet. And some of those items might even be a bit too worn out to wear.

Luckily, you don’t have to purge your old jeans once you can’t wear them. Instead, you can turn them into a denim quilt.

That’s right. You can repurpose your old denim into a new blanket. Anyone can make a denim quilt, and it’s pretty easy to do.

Of course, you need sewing supplies, but it doesn’t take an expert to turn old blue jeans into a refurbished denim quilt.

WHAT IS A DENIM QUILT?

A quilt is a type of blanket that has different squares or other shapes sewn together to form a blanket. You can use almost any fabric to make a quilt. So, a denim quilt is a quilt where denim is one of the main fabrics.

A denim quilt is the perfect project for anyone who loves denim.

WHY SHOULD YOU USE DENIM FOR A QUILT?

If you’re a long-time jeans wearer, odds are you have at least one pair of jeans you never wear but refuse to part with. Like other clothes, jeans can hold a special place in our hearts. It can be hard to get rid of something with such fond memories.

Reusing denim for a quilt can keep those memories alive while freeing up space in your closet for new jeans.

Aside from the sentimental benefits, denim has some advantageous attributes. First, denim is durable and long-lasting. Also, denim doesn’t snag like some other fabrics.

Making a denim quilt from your old jeans can save you money on fabric, too. You may need to buy some new denim to fill out your quilt, but you don’t have to start from scratch.

REDUCE, REUSE, RECYCLE

 

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It’s the phrase we’ve all heard many times. Reduce, reuse, and recycle. If you have many pairs of old jeans, making a denim quilt is an excellent way to cut down on waste.

You don’t have to feel guilty about tossing your unwearable jeans, and you can make a new quilt in the process.

What’s more, making a denim quilt is surprisingly easy. You can do it at home, and you can find any tools you need at a craft store or online.

HANDY AT HOME

If you’re looking for a new hobby, quilting could be for you. But even if you just want to do a one-off craft project, making a denim quilt is great.

You don’t need a ton of supplies to get started, and you may even have most of the supplies already. All you need to make a denim quilt is denim, a sewing machine, a needle, and thread.

Of course, you can go a little crazy with other fabric and accessories. But a simple denim quilt is easy, even for beginners.

OLD JEANS, NEW QUILT

There are many reasons why you should consider using old jeans to make a denim quilt. First, as we already mentioned, you can save money on fabric.

Second, you probably know that denim can be very soft and comfortable. While it may not be the perfect fabric for a blanket, it’s close.

And like it or not, we make a lot of waste. Turning your old jeans into a new quilt can reduce your waste in a couple of ways. You won’t have to toss your jeans, and you also won’t have to buy extra fabric.

Another reason for using jeans to make a denim quilt is that you can make a quilt that’s unique to you. No one else has worn the same pair of jeans just like you have.

When making a denim quilt, you can even combine the denim with other fabrics. You can also cut your denim into different shapes to create a one-of-a-kind quilt.

HOW TO MAKE A DENIM QUILT

 

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So you want to bring new life to your favorite pair of old jeans. They’re tearing at the seams, or maybe they just don’t fit you anymore.

Instead of tossing or donating your jeans, you decide to use them for a denim quilt. You need another blanket anyway, so it makes sense to kill two birds with one stone.

But you’ve never used denim to make a quilt before, and you need some guidance. Making a denim quilt is pretty straightforward, but there are some things you can do to make things easy on yourself.

Whether you’ve made quilts before or not, here are some tips and tricks for how to make a denim quilt.

PREP YOUR DENIM

It may sound obvious, but you don’t want to use denim that’s dirty or too worn down. Before you start making your denim quilt, you should wash the jeans and other denim items you plan to use.

Next, it’s time to cut up your old jeans. You can rip the seams apart, but that can be time-consuming and not necessarily worth it.

Instead, you can cut close to the seams to get as much of the fabric as you can. You can toss the seams or save them to add as decoration later.

After that, take a look at what you have. Make sure the denim isn’t too thin or stretched out. While thinner areas aren’t the end of the world, you want to be strategic with where you place them in the quilt.

Finally, you’re ready to cut the denim into squares or shapes for your quilt. You can make all of the pieces square. However, long strips can be easier to work with.

If you use squares, they have to be pretty small, but strips can be longer. And you can get a little creative with how you place the strips for a unique design.

YOUR OWN DESIGN

Once you prepare and cut your denim, it’s time to start designing your denim quilt. If you decide to go with squares, you can match them up.

Matching up the squares will help you see how your quilt will fit together and if there are any gaps.

If you don’t want to design your own quilt, you can find a pattern online.

GET CREATIVE

Now, you can get creative with how you place the squares of different washes. If you have different washes, you can make the squares go light to dark. Or you can mix and match.

The same is true for working with long strips.

At this point, you can also add in some squares of other fabrics. If you want a big quilt and don’t have much denim, adding other fabrics can help you reach your desired size. Other fabrics can also add some color or texture to your quilt.

REMEMBER THIS

Unless you’ve sewn denim before, you probably don’t know that denim requires some special care. You can’t just sew denim like you would any other fabric.

According to The Spruce Crafts, you should use a denim needle rather than a regular needle. You should also use either cotton thread or special jeans thread.

They also recommend against hand sewing a denim quilt. Denim’s thickness can make hand sewing more time-consuming and frustrating.

Instead, you should use a sewing machine. You can set the machine to sew about 10 to 12 stitches per inch. And if your sewing machine has a walking foot, that can help keep the quilt from moving around.

SEW, SEW, SEW

Now, it’s finally time to sew! So grab your sewing machine, needle, and thread. Get your quilt set up and ready to put together.

Make sure you have the time and space to work on your quilt. Depending on the size, you may need more space and time. If you don’t have much of either, you can sew the quilt in spurts. Just be sure to take a picture of your design to remind you where each patch will go.

THE FINISHING TOUCH

If you want to make the ends of your quilt look polished, consider binding them. Binding the quilt is where you sew strips around the edge of your quilt.

You should use new denim or other fabric for this because old denim usually isn’t long enough. But regardless of your fabric choice, binding your quilt can keep the ends from fraying. It will look like new for much longer.

JEANS, RENEWED

 

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We’ve all had our favorite pair of jeans or a beloved jean jacket. And sadly, they’ve probably worn down. You may not even be able to wear your favorite jeans anymore.

But all hope isn’t lost for your prized denim. Instead of tossing your unusable jeans, turn them into a denim quilt.

You can bring new life to your old jeans, and you can still feel their softness against your legs or arms. Only this time, it’s because you’re under a quilt, rather than wearing your jeans.

Do you have a favorite pair of jeans? Would you ever turn them into a denim quilt? Let us know in the comments!

DENIM and PATCHES sourced this post originally published on this site

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You want to know how to make your butt look good in jeans — don’t we all? But when you’re shopping for a new pair of denim pants, nothing seems to favor your bum. And achieving that Kardashian booty is slowly becoming an impossible dream.

From the boxy to saggy bum your jeans give you, you have no doubt the Kardashians either have a special kind of butt, or their jeans are simply out of this world.But what if I told you it’s possible to make your butt look amazing without any hassle. And no you don’t have to be a Kardashian (although that would be a great experience come to think of it.)

Image from Pixabay

HOW TO MAKE YOUR BUTT LOOK GOOD IN JEANS

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With the right tips on how to make your butt look good in jeans, the Kardashians won’t have anything on you. It’s not that they have a special kind of butt or jeans. They just know the right tricks to use to achieve a perky bum that draws attention. And you can do it too.Whether you prefer mom jeans or enjoy rocking skinny jeans, we have no doubt these tips will make your butt look amazing. From sculpting your butt to making a small butt look curvier, we have a solution for every type of woman. So let’s jump right in.

1. NO PAIN NO GAIN

Sometimes the best solution on how to make your butt look good in jeans is to work for it. Through exercise, you can ensure your derrière not only looks fantastic in jeans but also in everything else you wear. It’s not our favorite tip either. But it works!Some of the exercises that will help sculpt and tone your butt include lunges, squats, and leg lifts. And if you have a busy schedule, taking the stairs often may also give your derrière a boost.Cardio exercises are also excellent because they help shape the rest of your body. However, if you don’t have much going on back there, it may be best to ease up on the cardio. You don’t want to lose all the weight from your bum.And remember, you won’t get results overnight. So commit until you achieve your desired results.

2. DON’T MAKE THIS FASHION MISTAKE

If you want to pull off that Beyoncè look, you also need to be mindful of the underwear you wear. Do you think Queen B wears granny panties and boxer shorts under her jeans? Definitely not! And neither should you.To make your butt look incredible in jeans, you’ll need to trade in the oversized granny panties for a thong. Yes. You read that right. Thongs instantly make your butt look bigger because they leave most of it exposed.

Calvin Klein Women’s Modern Cotton Thong Panty

Emprella Cotton Thongs for Women

BUBBLELIME XS-XL Sports Thongs for Women

And if you’re worried about wedgies, cheeky underwear (they reveal a bit of cheek and don’t cover your entire butt) will also do the trick.

3. A LITTLE HEIGHT GOES A LONG WAY

Another great way to enhance your booty department is to wear heels. For some, this is easy peasy. And for others, it’s absolute torture. But here’s the good news. You don’t have to rock six-inch stilettos to achieve a perky behind. Even the low heels will give you amazing results.So how do heels help? Heels not only improve your posture but also lengthen your legs, thereby making your butt higher and perkier than usual. Besides, when you’re in heels, your chest is pushed forward and your behind backward, which accentuates your curves even further.

4. IT’S ALL ABOUT YOUR WAIST

A teeny tiny waist will also make your booty look larger than usual. Don’t worry. You won’t have to do a million situps for this one. All you need to do is to create the illusion that your waist is smaller. How do you do this? It’s simple.One way to go about it is to wear high waisted jeans that fall at your natural waistline. You can also achieve a tiny waist appearance by wearing a belt. Providing a visual highlight on your midsection makes your chest and butt look big, which is what you want.

Image from Amazon

5. GET A PAIR THAT GLIDES OVER YOUR CURVES

Image from Amazon

Stretchy fabrics are your best friend when you want to achieve the Kardashian booty. There’s so much to love about stretchy jeans. Apart from fitting like a glove, they don’t betray you when you’ve added a few pounds or eaten one too many burritos.However, stretchy jeans can go wrong really fast. If you pick the wrong fabric, there’s a high chance it will squash your booty instead of lifting it — not a pretty look.So the next time you go shopping, make sure you try the jeans on before buying. It may also help to have a friend tag along to get a second opinion.

6. SURE WAY TO ACHIEVE A PERKY BUTT

Another tip on how to make your butt look good in jeans is to pick the right wash. This tip is probably the most overlooked, but it’s very beneficial. The wash and rinse of your jeans can either enlarge or minimize your booty.If you’re already well-endowed and you want to draw less attention to your butt or make it look smaller, dark colors are the way to go. If your goal is to make your booty look bigger, on the other hand, it’s best to go for bright colored or white denim.

7. THE DETAIL YOU IGNORE, BUT IT’S CRUCIAL FOR A GREAT BOOTY

If you want to know all the tricks on how to make your butt look good in jeans, you can’t afford to forget the yoke. The yoke is a V-shaped seam that’s located just below the waistband. It helps make your jeans fit better. To achieve a perky bum, you need to ensure you have the right yoke size for your jeans.A yoke that’s too low separates the pockets too far making your booty appear wider than usual. And if the yoke is too straight, it gives your butt a boxy appearance because the jeans don’t mimic the shape of your natural curves at all.It’s also not a great idea to go for a yokeless pair of jeans because it leaves you with little to zero definition. Again, try on the jeans and make sure the fit is perfect.

8. A SUPERB TIP FOR THE MOM JEANS LOVERS

For the mom jeans lovers who want to know how to make your butt look good in jeans, we have an excellent suggestion for you too.When it comes to mom jeans, the trick is avoiding thick fabrics. Unless you are super thin (in this case thick materials will work wonders for your curves) stay away from thick fabrics because they won’t do justice to your body.Lighter fabrics are excellent for curvy women because they highlight your curves without looking too bulky. What’s more, you can fold them at the bottom without worrying that the fabric will be too thick.

9. SHOP SMART

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Understanding how to make your butt look good in jeans begins in the shopping stage. The wrong pair of jeans will not work, no matter what you do. For this reason, you need to ensure you invest in the right pair.So what should you look for? To achieve a desirable butt, one thing you always need to consider is the pockets. To avoid the dreaded saggy bum, avoid pockets that sit low on your booty. For the best results, your pockets should be perfectly centered.The size of the back pockets is also crucial. If you have a big butt, it’s best to go for pockets that are in the right proportion with your booty. The same applies to women with smaller butts because big pockets will overwhelm your frame.

10. FAKE IT TILL YOU MAKE IT

If you’ve tried all these tips on how to make your butt look good in jeans and you’re still not satisfied, it’s time for some drastic measures. There are several ways you can fake the derrière of your dreams.For starters, you can try a pair of the best butt lifting jeans. Yes, it’s a thing. These jeans have an elastic fabric in the rear that lifts your butt, making it look perky.Next, you can try butt pads. Butt pads are a type of underwear with extra padding to help you make your butt look bigger. Once you have them on, no one will be any the wiser.And if you want to smooth out your curves, Spanx or any other shapewear will do wonders for you. And if you’re going for a small waist look, go for shapewear that cinches at your waist.

GET YOUR BEYONCÈ ON!

And the most important tip on how to make your butt look good in jeans; feel beautiful and confident in your body. With these tips, you can now rock any jeans with confidence, and we’re sure all eyes will be on you!How do you make your butt look good in jeans? Please share some of your tips with us. We’d love to try them.

DENIM and PATCHES sourced this post originally published on this site

Many of us have a favorite pair of jeans, a denim jacket that holds memories, or the desire to fix up our old clothes. Some might also want to fix up those classic frayed jeans if they’re tired of that fashion. If that’s the case, there are many reasons why we need to know how to sew on a patch on denim.

When you patch up some denim, you save the rest of the clothing from going to waste. In fact, when you can patch it, you can style it in different ways.

Fortunately, you can learn how to sew on a patch very easily. There are actually quite a few ways to go about this task. The traditional way is to use a thread and needle, of course, but there are also some fixes that may save you the stitching.

A non-stitching method usually requires some fabric glue. If you don’t have the strongest kind of glue, you’ll notice that this may not be a permanent way to patch your denim.

However, it’s still a handy method for those who have issues with stitching, such as those suffering from arthritis or rheumatism.

Patches are not just a way to fix up your denim-based items, though. Once you’ve mastered the art of how to sew on a patch, you can use the same technique to fix up your other well-loved clothes.

HOW TO KNOW THE RIGHT SIZE PATCH

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The first step is to know the right size and kind of patches for your denim. These are nothing more than squares of fabric in varying sizes. You can probably buy them in certain stores, where embroidered options are available.

There are also sequined, beaded, and felt patches in stores. Felt is a material that’s especially good for patching, as it doesn’t fray at the edges.

If you want a special kind of patch, you can always cut and embroider it yourself. That will help you get the exact kind of look you want without having to waste time looking for the perfect match.

Before making or buying your patches, you should take some measurements from the hole in order to work out the quantity of fabric you require. When measuring, you should also make sure the denim clothing is stretched out flat on a horizontal surface.

Another thing to check is that there should be no ragged pieces or excess thread to get in the way of your measuring. You can trim those with scissors before using the measuring tape, as these can make the hole seem smaller.

Your patch needs to be large enough to cover the hole and then some. Therefore, you should add a half-inch to your measurements before cutting out the fabric.

Image via Pe​​xels

MATERIALS YOU NEED TO SEW THE PATCH

Before you can learn how to sew on a patch for denim, you need to have the right supplies for the job. The material for the patches is a major necessity.

You might want to match the fabric with the original clothing as closely as possible. However, that isn’t always necessary.

If you find a fun print at the fabric store or you have a couple of scraps lying around, you can get creative.

At the end of it all, however, the patch will be evident on the clothing. So, it’s time to be proud of your patching skills and flaunt your patch as a fashion statement!

HOW TO DO THE SEWING RIGHT BY USING THE STANDARD METHOD

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If you want to know how to sew on a patch instead of simply gluing it on, you have to concentrate on the exact method of sewing. As long as you have a functional sewing machine or a decent sewing kit, there’s no reason to get fabric adhesive of any kind.

After you’ve used your scissors to trim the loose threads and frayed edges, you’ll need fabric pins, thread, a pencil or pen, paper, fabric, and a sewing needle.

If you want no-stitch patching, you’ll need to collect scissors, fabric adhesive or some fusible web, the fabric itself, paper, and a pen. Remember, you still need to trim the holes and make them neat whether you’re stitching or not.

HOW TO SEW ON A PATCH: UNIVERSAL GUIDELINES

There are some universal steps to take if you want to know how to sew on a patch. No matter whether you’re fixing jeans or a denim jacket, you have to turn it inside out before sewing on the patch. You must do this after you’ve cleared away the loose and frayed ends.

The next step is to put some paper under the rip or hole, and then trace along the hole with a pen or pencil. Now, take the paper away and draw around the traced hole, leaving about half an inch of space between the original line and the new one.

The result will be the size and shape you need your patch to have. Cut out the tracing along the new, larger lines; this is your stencil. Lay this stencil over the patching fabric, and cut out your patch.

Now that you have your patch ready, lay it out on top of the hole in the clothing, which should be inside out. Secure it with some pins.

If possible, you can measure around this area and take double the amount of thread to the result. Thread your needle and pull the thread until its ends align with each other. Make a knot, and you’re ready to sew!

Then, start on any kind of stitch to fix your patch in place. You should make the stitches as tight and small as possible.

A slip stitch means that your needle will go through your fabric in a diagonal direction. If you do decide to go with this option, you should keep the stitches very small.

If you don’t, you could risk the fabric moving, or the thread might bunch out.

Keep the pins in until you’ve finished your sewing. When you’re done, fix the ends before cutting any excess thread.

HOW TO SEW DIFFERENT TYPES OF PATCHES

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It’s amazing how each patch is different. What’s more exciting is that you can change the look of your denim clothing or accessories by using unique patches.

FIXING WITHOUT ANY STITCHES

In case you don’t have the supplies or simply don’t want to sew for some reason, there is a way to patch up your clothing without stitching it.

Again, you want to make sure that the clothing item is inside out and laying flat on a horizontal surface. Now, put a piece of paper or cardboard under the hole and make your stencil as you do with the stitching version.

Next, you can apply fabric glue or adhesive to the hole’s border. There should be enough all-around to come into contact with the overlapping patch.

Now, smooth out the patching fabric and cut out the patch according to the stencil. You’ll have to wait a bit before sticking it on, according to the instructions on the adhesive.

In case you’re using fusion webbing, you should follow the instruction on the specific kind you have. Again, you’ll have to apply the webbing all around the border and then stick on the patch.

Then, you can iron on the patch in order to apply the required heat for activating the webbing.

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APPLIQUÉD PATCH

Now that you know how to sew on a patch, let’s take a look at how to sew an appliquéd patch. An appliquéd patch is sewn by hand or a machine right onto the face of your garment.

After measuring and pinning the pans, you use a blanket switch for hand-appliqué. That has turned edges. For a sewing machine, you’ll use tight stitches in a zigzag fashion.

HANDMADE OVERHAND PATCH

It’s another kind of patch you sew from the face or the right side of your clothing article. If the garment has a thick fabric, you’ll use a thinner one for the overhand patch. If you don’t, the patch will project outwards.

OVERHAND PATCH

For an overhand patch, you should make the hole or rip into a square shape first. Next, cut out a square patch that’s a little bigger than your square hole. Press the patch’s edges about a quarter of the way inside the hole. Then, baste it with stitches along the edges.

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EMBROIDERED PATCH

For additional flair, you can also get patches that have embroidery on them. These are usually of thick fabric and come in all shapes and sizes.

If you buy these, you can attach them right onto the denim without turning down the edges. That’s because the edges are usually prefinished and resistant to fraying.

You can then apply the patch on the fabric using tiny hand stitches or a sewing machine. Check out whipstitching for handwork, and baste the fabric together beforehand.

Once you’ve applied the patch to the hole, turn the garment inside out. Now finish off the edges with an overcast stitch, and you’re done! For durability, you can sew the patch down one more time.

REVERSE APPLIQUÉ PATCH

A reverse appliqué patch is applied from the back of your garment. You cut the hole in the shape of the appliqué design, and stitch all around the hole’s edge.

For this method, satin or small zigzag stitches are best. However, you can also use a straight stitch. If you want the stitching line to be visible, you might want to put two spools in your sewing machine.

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DARNING PATCH

You can sew a darning patch by putting a patch of fabric underneath the hole. Then, use very close straight stitches to sew the patch all around. You may use the reverse switch as well in order to make sure everything is in place.

You should also make sure to use a colored thread of exact machine on both the bottom and the top. If you don’t want the stitched cloth to be visible, it’s wise not to go for a light color for the thread. If you can’t find the exact same color, you can choose something darker instead.

FLANNEL PATCH

A flannel patch is made of felt and can be either a match or contrast in color. You can start off by cutting a piece in a square shape, making sure it’s larger than the hole.

Now, put your patch above the hole, and baste the two fabrics together. Use buttonhole stitches to apply the patch firmly to the original fabric.

Next, you turn the clothing article inside out and cut away the worn or frayed edges. Use catch stitches to affix the patch properly, and pluck out the basting stitches.

You may also choose to keep the flannel or felt underneath the hole. That will be an advantage, as it would prevent the patch’s edges from fraying. However, you might not find this technique as comfortable as putting the patch outside the hole.

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WHICH PATCH WILL WORK WONDERS ON YOUR JEANS?

So, will you be using a regular patch on your denim clothing, or something a bit different? Whichever one you choose, sewing on a patch is definitely a cost-effective and adorable way to change up your wardrobe!

Do you now know how to sew on a patch in a perfect fashion? Let us know about your experience.

DENIM and PATCHES sourced this post originally published on this site

You Don’t Need a Repair Expert to Extend the Life of Your Well-Worn Selvedge

Well-made selvedge denim has a well-earned reputation for durability. Still, all 100% cotton products have their limits, and even heavy selvedge is no exception.

Usually starting with crotch blowouts or holes in or around the knees, pairs start to go to pieces after a few hundred wears.

When repairs become necessary, you have two options: send your jeans to a professional for invisible mending, or do it yourself with sashiko. The first hides the damage; the second preserves and even showcases the holes and tears.

With invisible mending, a backing material is added, and the sewing machine passes back and forth dozens of times, using colour-matched stitches to fill the hole and reinforce the surrounding denim.

Done well, the result of invisible mention is sturdy and inconspicuous. Sashiko is something else entirely.

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Why Denimheads Love Sashiko

With its roots in early-seventeenth-century Japan, sashiko (meaning “little stabs”) was born out of necessity. For rural Japanese fishermen and farmers, fabric was a precious commodity. Repairs extended the life of garments indefinitely (sometimes across generations).

It didn’t take long for Japanese ingenuity to turn the necessary repairs into an elegant art form. The simple running stitch (used to affix patches to worn areas) transformed into complex geometric patterns.

Strong, warm, and beautiful beyond measure, sashikoed Japanese workwear became wearable, museum-grade art.

Key to sashiko’s appeal is its simplicity. You don’t need any machinery or particularly nimble fingers. Even if you’ve never threaded a needle, beautiful sashiko repairs are within reach. Follow the simple steps below, and you’ll be able to start handling your own repairs.

Not only will you be able to mend your jeans in a day or two, you’ll also be able to play a larger part in your pair’s journey. Just as the fades are yours and yours alone, the repairs will be entirely yours as well. Trust us on this. It’s worth the investment of time and effort.

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What You’ll Need for Sashiko Denim Repairs

My first few stabs at sashiko were rough but satisfying. I went to my local hobby shop and grabbed some waxed thread, some rough bandana-print material for backing material, and a few needles.

I was happy with the result, but happier with the lesson I took away from the experience: To get the result you want, start with the right tools for the job.

Item #1: Sashiko Thread

Unlike embroidery thread or other sewing threads, sashiko thread is heavy, non-divisible (one solid strand rather than multiple strands twisted together), and usually features a matte finish.

For crotch blow-outs, it’s better to have dark blue or indigo-dyed threads. While there are plenty of folks who use contrasting threads for blowouts in this sensitive area, it’s our advice to keep crotch repairs on the subtler side. 

Item #2: Sashiko Needles

Sashiko needles are available in a few different lengths. There’s no correct length. It’s a matter of preference, so grab a pack that features a range of lengths and try them all out to see what size is perfect for you.

You might also want to grab a pin cushion, especially if you’re prone to misplacing things. Not essential, but certainly a nice thing to have both between and during repair work.

Item #3: Backing Material or Patches

When repairing heavy denim, the best backing material is (you guessed it) heavy selvedge. I use denim samples from SOSO (they send a stack of them with every order, and they’re absolutely perfect for medium-sized repairs).

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Item #4: Pins or Glue

You’ll need something to hold the backing material or patch in place while you’re working on it. A lot of the experts use pins along each side of the patch, but I prefer to use fabric glue, which holds the backing material securely in place.

Item #5: Thimble or Equivalent

Unless you’ve got incredibly thick skin, you’ll likely want to have something handy that will help you push the needle through multiple layers of thick denim. This is especially important when your repairs cross major seams.

A thimble will make the work faster and less painful. I use a small piece of the thick felt that you stick to the bottom of furniture legs to prevent scratches on your wood floors, but I’ve been eyeing a leather thimble like the one below.

Item #6: Stencils or Fabric Pen

Sashiko repairs can be as rough or refined as you like. You can, for instance, just do running vertical stitches of varying length. There’s a certain charm in rough and naive repairs, but the most striking repairs are precise and geometrical.

You can, with the aid of a grid and water-soluble fabric pen, mark out a pattern to follow with your needle and thread, but for an even simpler solution, you can use these Wash-Away Adhesive Stencils from Clone—an absolute game changer for me.  

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Step-by-Step Guide to Sashiko Denim Repairs

With the right tools in hand, you’re ready to get started. Work through the steps below in order. Take your time, and don’t be discouraged if the needle feels awkward in your hand at first. You’ll get used to it. 

Step #1: Prepare Your Pair for Repair

When it comes to repairs, the first question is when? For visible repairs, it’s better to push your pair beyond its breaking point—to the point where the jeans need repairs. Purely decorative sashiko is absolutely fine, but sashiko repairs somehow look more natural when they are clearly keeping the pair from disintegrating.

If it’s been a while since you last washed your pair, you might want to consider washing before you start repair work. This is a must if you’re having anybody else work on your pair. It’s optional if you’re doing it yourself.

Depending on how much you want to showcase the fabric behind the repair, you might want to trim the exposed weft yarns and edges of the hole with scissors. If you’ve been looking for the excuse to get a pair of those nifty Japanese thread trimmers, now’s your chance.

For the cleanest repairs, fold the ragged edge under and then stitch around the edges of the hole. This is an excellent way to show off a great backing material, but you lose some of the charm of rougher repairs with exposed threads.

I usually skip this step, stitching through the ragged edges and exposed weft yarns. I also rarely wash my pairs before repairing them unless the pair need a bath. I like to go as long as possible between washes, so I see the ability to repair without washing as a small luxury. 

Step #2: Back it Up

For this guide, I’m keeping things simple. I’m placing the patch on the inside of the jeans and, using a cross-pattern stencil as a guide, I’ll be stitching through both layers so that, when I wash away the stencil, only the pattern is visible on the face of the denim.

I’m repairing two relatively small holes around a half-inch apart, but both the backing material and the stencil will be around 4 x 4 inches. We want to strengthen not just the affected area but also the surrounding denim, so you’ll want the patch to push out an inch or so in every direction from the hole or rip you’re mending.

Turn the jeans inside out and, with either fabric glue or pins, firmly attach the patch. If you’re using glue, don’t apply glue to the parts of the patch that will show through the repair. Give it a few minutes to dry before turning the pair right side out.

Remember that the glue is not a weight-bearing part of the repair. It’s only there to hold the patch in place while you stitch. As long as the corners are firmly attached, that’s probably enough.

If your hole (like mine) is close to a major seam, cover the major seam with both the backing material and your stencil or pattern. These will be some of the hardest areas to get the needle through, but having the repair extend across this seam is essential if you want a long-lasting repair. 

Step #3: Mark Out or Stick On Your Pattern

If it’s your first time trying sashiko, my recommendation is to start with the classic cross pattern I’ve used here. The crosses don’t have to be precisely the same size, but the spacing is very important if you want the pattern to look right.

With a fabric pen, you can mark out a grid of half-inch squares. The first vertical row of crosses should each sit in the middle of a square. The second row should cross at the corners of the squares. Each line of the cross should be about a quarter-inch long.

If you’re using an adhesive pattern (recommended), simply stick the pattern to the front side of your jeans, being careful not to allow the adhesive to fold or crease—this will skew the pattern. 

Step #4: Start Your Stitches

Cut a few feet of thread and place two or three knots in one end. Thread the needle with the other end. Pass a considerable amount of thread through the needle (3-4 inches should be enough). It might take a few tries to thread the needle. Be patient.

Holding the tip of the needle between your thumb and index finger, with your sewing hand on the inside of the jeans, push the tip of the needle through both layers until you’ve found the bottom or top corner of one of the corner crosses. 

Make your way either up or down the line following the short vertical lines in the pattern. Using both hands, guide the point of the needle up at the beginning and down at the end of each short line in the pattern.

If you like, you can stack multiple stitches on one needle, but this simply won’t be possible when you’re working with heavier denim. I’ve found it’s best to just go one stitch at a time. It’s slower but more precise.

After a few stitches, pull the thread through until it’s taught. Lines should be straight but not tight. Work the fabric with your hands to make sure it’s flat and doesn’t pucker around the stitches.

At the end of each line, move diagonally to the first cross in the next line. Leave just a touch of slack in the line each time you do this (not enough to snag when putting the jeans on, but enough to give each line a little breathing room. Finish all of the vertical lines before starting on the horizontal ones.

Step #5: At the End of Your Rope

Continue the pattern until you reach either the end of your thread or the end of the vertical lines. For small repairs, one piece of thread is usually enough for all the vertical lines. For larger ones, you’ll likely want to start a new piece of thread when you’re around the half-way point.

When you’re getting close to the end of the thread or are at the end of the pattern, with the needle on the reverse side, go back to the beginning of the last stitch you made. After passing it through the same hole, bring the needle down again through the middle of the stitch.

Turn the pair inside out to inspect your stitches, looking for long loops of snagged thread. The inside of the repair is not likely to be very aesthetically pleasing. Even expert repairs often look rough on the reverse side. Embrace it.

Finally, knot the thread two or three times, trying to get the knots quite close to the fabric (leave a bit of room). Then snip the thread close to the knot (not so close that it will come unknotted).

Repeat the same process for the horizontal stitches until the pattern is complete. Then, if you’ve used a wash-off adhesive, give the repaired area a quick dip in the water (no need to fully immerse the pair). It’ll disappear in a few seconds.

Congratulations, you’ve completed your repair. Just let the jeans dry fully before wearing them again.

Step #6: Take Your Time

A medium-sized sashiko repair usually takes me 3-4 hours to complete. I usually just throw on a movie and stitch away with one eye on the TV and the other on my work. My wife is often knitting beside me—the whole scene looks and feels very domestic.

When I’ve tried to speed up the process, I’ve been significantly less satisfied with my work. The best advice I can offer is to take your time and, if you make mistakes, go back and fix them or start again. The slower and more methodical the work, the better the result. 

With each completed repair, your confidence will grow. You might refine a simple style, or you might start to explore more complicated patterns and techniques.

Even the simplest repairs can be eye-catching stunners if infused with personality and a little creativity. Mix up thread colours and look for fabrics that might fill holes or tears both purposefully and artfully.

However you approach the craft, you’ll be playing a hands-on role in your pair’s lifecycle, beautifying and strengthening it with every stitch. You’ll have a deeper relationship with your denim, and, especially if you take your time and do it right, you’ll be intensely proud of both your pair and your repair. 

Pairs Worth Repairing

Time-consuming sashiko repairs only really make sense when the pair is worthy of the extra attention and devotion. If you don’t have a pair like this yet, start the hunt with our Selvedge Masterlist.

The post Sashiko for Selvedge: A Step-by-Step Beginner’s Guide appeared first on Denimhunters.

DENIM and PATCHES sourced this post originally published on this site

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8 Well-Made White T-Shirts That Hold Up and Get Better With Wear

For a long time, I didn’t enjoy buying T-shirts. I’d find one that felt good straight off the shelf, but after a few washes it would become a different shirt. The collar would get a bad case of “bacon neck,” the fabric would twist around the body, and sometimes they seemed to lose their shape completely. It made T-shirts feel disposable.

The more time I spent around denim, the stranger it seemed. People would spend years wearing a pair of jeans, watching the fabric change, soften, and pick up the marks of everyday life. They’d evolve without losing their integrity. For some reason, we often don’t hold the humble white tee to the same standard. So I started looking for ones worth holding onto.

The eight shirts below are ones that I’ve come across along the way. Some I have owned and worn, while others come highly recommended by like-minded people. They’re not ranked, because I’m not really sure there is a single “best” white T-shirt. They each do something a little differently. Some are heavy, some are light. Some are made to feel like something from fifty years ago, while others are made with more modern sensibilities.

What they do have in common is that they’re made with thought and made to hold up.

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Merz b. Schwanen’s 215 Loopwheeled Mid-Weight T-Shirt

I know, the tee from The Bear. It’s well known after Jeremy Allen White’s solid stint wearing it as Carmy in the hit show, but here’s why it’s important: it’s the shirt that brought loopwheel construction to the attention of people who had never heard of it before.

The funny thing is, the 215 had already been around for years. Made in Germany on original loopwheel machines, knit slowly with a tubular construction and sturdy collar. The same shirt made the same way, only now seen by a much bigger audience.

I’m not disillusioned that Jeremy Allen White’s physique probably played a role in the shirt’s appeal, but what I like about this Merz T-shirt is that it doesn’t try too hard. It’s simply well made, and strikes all the right notes. The fabric has some weight without feeling too heavy, and the collar is substantial enough to hold up over time.

I should add that this T-shirt in The Bear was altered by wardrobe for the show, but Merz has since added a cropped version of the 215 for anyone after a true Carmy-esque fit.

Merz b. Schwanen is sold at: Redcast Heritage (ES), Franklin & Poe (USA), Lost & Found (CA)

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Buck Mason’s Field-Spec Cotton Heavy Tee

Buck Mason does modern Americana as well as anyone, and their tee offering feels pretty darn American.

Taking cues from military clothing, the Field-Spec Heavy Tee is made from a 310gsm cotton jersey with a nice heft. The great part is that the weight doesn’t come at the expense of feel, allowing this one to settle in quickly through wash and wear.

The collar is where the Field-Spec truly shines. It’s a touch wider than your average tee and features a bound construction. Not a detail most think about, but when the collar gets tired, your tee goes down with it.

This tee is a workhorse that doesn’t need to be babied. You could throw it in your bag on an impromptu trip away, and wouldn’t need to give it a second thought.

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Sunspel’s Classic T-Shirt

Somewhere along the way, heavyweight became shorthand for quality. Sunspel challenges that idea in the best way possible.

The Classic T-shirt is light, smooth, and supremely comfortable. Made with Supima cotton, it feels noticeably softer than the heavier options mentioned above.

The softer feel makes it a great all-rounder that can be called upon in casual settings, as well as those that require a little more polish. After wearing heavier tees, this one might feel like swapping your boots out for nicely worn loafers.

Sunspel’s Classic T-shirt doesn’t have the ruggedness of other options here, but it’s safe to say with a century of manufacturing behind them that Sunspel knows their stuff. Sometimes lighter is better.

Sunspel is available at Blue Beach Denim (TW) and DeeCee Style (CH)

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Sunray Sportswear’s Haleiwa SS T-Shirt

Sunray Sportswear is a brand that doesn’t need to make noise. Their product wholeheartedly does the talking for them.

The Haleiwa is made in Japan on antique loopwheel machines. The process is slow. Really slow. But you can almost feel that level of care and attention in the fabric. It’s somehow dense and soft at the same time, with enough body to hold its shape well.

The fit is also worth a mention, as Sunray’s outdone much of the competition here. Slightly more relaxed than a majority of Japan’s typical loopwheeled options, I’d bet good money that the Haleiwa works well on just about anyone.

As a side note, denimheads will enjoy Sunray’s pigment-dye offerings. They’re made to the same high standard, with the best parts of the aging process cranked up to 11.

Sunray Sportswear is sold at Redcast Heritage (ES), Blue Beach Denim (TW), Lost & Found (CA), and DeeCee Style (CH)

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Wonder Looper’s Double Heavyweight T-Shirt

The heavyweight champ is here.

Wonder Looper takes the term heavyweight so seriously that you have to wonder whether this should still be called a T-shirt. The fabric is thick, full of character, and dense enough to border on being a lightweight sweatshirt.

The Double Heavyweight tee is reserved for those with an appetite for relaxed fits. If you like a substantial shirt with a bit more room in the body, you’ll likely love it. If you prefer something neat and close-fitting, look elsewhere.

I do like how unapologetic Wonder Looper is with their product. There are plenty of tees that sit somewhere in the middle when it comes to weight, and Wonder Looper isn’t interested in that. If you’ve ever thought “Could this T-shirt be heavier?”, you needn’t wonder anymore.

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Whitesville’s 2-Pack T-Shirt

If value for money is what you’re after, you’d be hard-pressed to find something better than Whitesville’s 2-Pack.

A popular U.S. sportswear brand throughout the 40s and 50s, Whitesville was revived by Japan’s Toyo Enterprises, who now bring us these beauties. Made from an unassuming fine-combed cotton, these tees hold up amazingly well from wear to wear.

The fit is the real decider here. Inspired by their mid-century roots, the Whitesville tees are shorter through the body than most modern T-shirts, and work particularly well with higher-rise jeans.

They also shrink. A lot. Sizing up is a must.

Despite their undershirt origins, Whitesville 2-Pack tees are absolute daily drivers. Soak in the packaging, too, which comes in a bag with mid-century-style graphics sure to get any heritage fan drooling.

Redcast Heritage (ES), Brooklyn Clothing Co. (CA), and Hinoya (JP) sell Whitesville.

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UES’ Ramayana T-Shirt

UES are in the major league when it comes to Japanese textiles and craftsmanship.

The Ramayana is made from Suvin Gold cotton, a rare, extra-long-fibre cotton. It’s very soft, but maintains a lot of structural integrity. In hand, these tees have a subtle character you won’t find in overly processed luxury basics.

The fit is on the slimmer side, which makes it a great base layer for an outfit. The tightly knitted construction also means you can put this thing through multiple washes and it’ll hold its shape.

UES’ Ramayana has achieved an undeniable marriage between sturdiness and softness that many other brands only dream of.

UES is available at Redcast Heritage (ES), Brooklyn Clothing Co. (CA), Iron Shop Provisions (US), Franklin & Poe (US), Blue Beach Denim (TW)

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Lady White Co.’s Our T-Shirt

If someone asked me where to start, I’d probably point them here.

Lady White Co. sits somewhere in the middle of just about everything. The weight is substantial without being heavy. The fit is comfortable without being too relaxed. The length isn’t too long nor too cropped. A true Goldilocks of the T-shirt world.

The tubular construction gives it a clean shape, and the pre-shrunk cotton means you don’t have to spend the first few washes wondering what will come out the other side.

There’s no single feature that makes LWC’s Our T-shirt stand out. It just gets a lot right, and not much wrong. Maybe that’s the real feature.

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The Search Goes On

I still don’t think I’ve found the perfect white T-shirt, but I’m not sure it actually exists. Each of these brands makes the same garment, but nuances in construction, fabric, and fit create anything but the same T-shirt.

What I have found are T-shirts that meet the standard we set for many other items in our wardrobe: hold up well and get better with wear.

Like any article of clothing, the first time you wear a T-shirt should never be the best it will ever look.

The post The Search for the Perfect White T-Shirt appeared first on Denimhunters.

DENIM and PATCHES sourced this post originally published on this site

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Want Dramatic 3D Fades? Your Next Pair of Selvedge Should Be Super Heavyweights 

We’ve long preached the virtues of heavy selvedge denim. Straight out of the box, it looks and feels like nothing else, and the more we wear it, the better it gets.

Many of those who ease a heavy pair through its long break-in period are transformed by the experience. They’re converts for life.

But what we call heavy selvedge covers a lot of ground. What we’re talking about here is the really heavy stuff. Heavyweight denim starts at 16 oz., but super-heavyweights (20 oz. and heavier) are an entirely different breed. They fight harder and longer, and their break-in period can stretch into months.

But there’s something waiting for you at the end of this break-in period, and it’s not just the way it looks and feels. Super-heavyweights fade in a very particular way that lighter denim simply can’t imitate: fades are three-dimensional.

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The Science of 3D Fades (It “Remembers”)

Raw denim’s biggest draw card is its unmatched ability to fade in ways that reflect how it has been worn and made. Every denim fades differently, and every fully faded pair is entirely unique to the wearer.

Contrasting fade patterns are the scars left behind from a battle between you and your pair. When you strain and stretch stiff denim, the indigo flakes off the surface, exposing the white core of the yarns. The result is whiskers on the top block, combs behind the knees, and stacks around the ankles.

These fade patterns emerge wherever the denim creases, bends, and folds. In lighter pairs, the denim creases quite sharply. Whiskers, combs, and stacks look as though they’ve been carved into the surface of the denim with a dull blade.

Extremely heavy selvedge, though, doesn’t fold or crease. It rolls. Whiskers, combs, and stacks are thicker and more dramatic—like forks of lightning streaking across a dark blue sky.

Here’s the important bit: The thick rolls of denim give fades both thrust and depth. The white fade patterns sit on the crest of waves. The jeans aren’t just scarred—they’re a vivid three-dimensional map of your journey and your body’s movement patterns.

The effect is similar on middleweight pairs, but, with heavy denim, the 3D effect is far more pronounced and dramatic. It’s not just about the sharp contrast of dark and light tones. It’s about how the most dramatically faded parts of the denim thrust themselves forward.

To produce this effect, all we need to do is start with a heavy pair and then wear it a lot before washing it for the first time. We need to wait until the fades have well and truly emerged before that first wash. Depending on your lifestyle, six to eight months of daily wear is usually enough. 

After that first wash, something magical happens. The denim “remembers”. Those white fade patterns aren’t just a different colour than the rest of the pair. They’re materially different. They bend more easily, meaning that, when you start wearing it again, the denim rolls in precisely the same way and in the same places

We don’t need to guide this process in any way. Just sit back and watch as, day after day, the 3D effect slowly re-emerges. Whiskers, combs, and stacks all rise off of the surface, flowing through the same channels they remember.

These 3D fades are the return we get on the deeper investment of both time and money, and they make every dollar and every day we spend in the pair worth it and then some. No wonder so many fade fanatics swear by super heavyweight selvedge.

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Heavy Selvedge Built for 3D Fades

For the most dramatic high-contrast fades, start with pairs that are 20 oz. or heavier. The heavier the denim, the thicker the rolls and the more pronounced the 3D effect will be. If you’re looking for the full range of heavyweight options, this guide covers the brands worth knowing.

One thing worth noting: The same effect is possible with black denim, though you’ll need to push significantly harder and longer to get there. For a first attempt, indigo is the better starting point.

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Iron Heart XHS

The first name in super heavyweight selvedge, Iron Heart’s XHS selvedge may never have been the world’s heaviest selvedge (their 21 oz. denim briefly held that title), but its reputation for striking contrasts has made it the first choice for those serious about fades.

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Samurai 25 oz. Selvedge

Each year, Samurai introduces new versions of its super heavyweight selvedge. Primed for serious contrast fades, these stiff denims shed indigo like snakes shed their skin. Sells out quickly, but the world-class fades will be worth waiting for.

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SOSOBROTHERS Ghost Indigo and Breaker of Legs

Since their foundation, the SOSOBROTHERS have positioned themselves as a go-to brand for those in the search of exceptionally heavy denims. Their 33 oz. Breaker of Legs selvedge was, for a time, the world’s heaviest, and their 25 oz. Ghost Selvedge is an excellent slightly lighter option.

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Naked & Famous Elephants

The current title holders for the world’s heaviest selvedge, Naked & Famous shocked the selvedge world with their nearly unwearable 40 oz. selvedge. Their Elephants (with new versions released each year) have legions of fans, and for very good reason.

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Wingman Heavyweights

This Indonesian brand has started making inroads in Europe and North America thanks to their ability to provide unmatched bang for buck for those who want that fade-primed heavy selvedge experience. Extremely popular among fade diehards in Southeast Asia.

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Brave Star Heavyweights

The only North American brand to win the Indigo Invitational, Brave Stars are a popular choice for faders looking for tough-as-nails selvedge combined with stylish cuts. Their heaviest pairs sell out quickly but are restocked frequently.

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Unbranded 21 oz. Selvedge

One of the most budget-friendly selvedge brands, this Naked & Famous offshoot is one of the easiest paths for hard-to-handle heavyweights. Stripped down to the bare essentials, these pairs offer exceptionally good fade potential for the price.

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OldBlue Beasts

In part because this Indonesian brand has only a handful of retailers outside of Southeast Asia, their pairs are a hot commodity in Europe and North America. One of the world’s best heavy fade foundations, this legendary denim is worth waiting for. If it’s in stock, pounce!

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Complete the Heavy Kit

Of course, 3D fades like the ones pictured above aren’t limited to jeans. Heavy selvedge denim jackets complete the look, and the fade potential is truly off the charts. Look for some of the heaviest pieces on our guide to selvedge denim jackets here.

The post The One Thing Only Super Heavyweight Denim Can Do appeared first on Denimhunters.

DENIM and PATCHES sourced this post originally published on this site