DENIMandPATCHES

Many of us have a favorite pair of jeans, a denim jacket that holds memories, or the desire to fix up our old clothes. Some might also want to fix up those classic frayed jeans if they’re tired of that fashion. If that’s the case, there are many reasons why we need to know how to sew on a patch on denim.

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When you patch up some denim, you save the rest of the clothing from going to waste. In fact, when you can patch it, you can style it in different ways.

Fortunately, you can learn how to sew on a patch very easily. There are actually quite a few ways to go about this task. The traditional way is to use a thread and needle, of course, but there are also some fixes that may save you the stitching.

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A non-stitching method usually requires some fabric glue. If you don’t have the strongest kind of glue, you’ll notice that this may not be a permanent way to patch your denim.

However, it’s still a handy method for those who have issues with stitching, such as those suffering from arthritis or rheumatism.

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Patches are not just a way to fix up your denim-based items, though. Once you’ve mastered the art of how to sew on a patch, you can use the same technique to fix up your other well-loved clothes.

HOW TO KNOW THE RIGHT SIZE PATCH

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The first step is to know the right size and kind of patches for your denim. These are nothing more than squares of fabric in varying sizes. You can probably buy them in certain stores, where embroidered options are available.

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There are also sequined, beaded, and felt patches in stores. Felt is a material that’s especially good for patching, as it doesn’t fray at the edges.

If you want a special kind of patch, you can always cut and embroider it yourself. That will help you get the exact kind of look you want without having to waste time looking for the perfect match.

Before making or buying your patches, you should take some measurements from the hole in order to work out the quantity of fabric you require. When measuring, you should also make sure the denim clothing is stretched out flat on a horizontal surface.

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Another thing to check is that there should be no ragged pieces or excess thread to get in the way of your measuring. You can trim those with scissors before using the measuring tape, as these can make the hole seem smaller.

Your patch needs to be large enough to cover the hole and then some. Therefore, you should add a half-inch to your measurements before cutting out the fabric.

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MATERIALS YOU NEED TO SEW THE PATCH

Before you can learn how to sew on a patch for denim, you need to have the right supplies for the job. The material for the patches is a major necessity.

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You might want to match the fabric with the original clothing as closely as possible. However, that isn’t always necessary.

If you find a fun print at the fabric store or you have a couple of scraps lying around, you can get creative.

At the end of it all, however, the patch will be evident on the clothing. So, it’s time to be proud of your patching skills and flaunt your patch as a fashion statement!

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HOW TO DO THE SEWING RIGHT BY USING THE STANDARD METHOD

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If you want to know how to sew on a patch instead of simply gluing it on, you have to concentrate on the exact method of sewing. As long as you have a functional sewing machine or a decent sewing kit, there’s no reason to get fabric adhesive of any kind.

After you’ve used your scissors to trim the loose threads and frayed edges, you’ll need fabric pins, thread, a pencil or pen, paper, fabric, and a sewing needle.

If you want no-stitch patching, you’ll need to collect scissors, fabric adhesive or some fusible web, the fabric itself, paper, and a pen. Remember, you still need to trim the holes and make them neat whether you’re stitching or not.

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HOW TO SEW ON A PATCH: UNIVERSAL GUIDELINES

There are some universal steps to take if you want to know how to sew on a patch. No matter whether you’re fixing jeans or a denim jacket, you have to turn it inside out before sewing on the patch. You must do this after you’ve cleared away the loose and frayed ends.

The next step is to put some paper under the rip or hole, and then trace along the hole with a pen or pencil. Now, take the paper away and draw around the traced hole, leaving about half an inch of space between the original line and the new one.

The result will be the size and shape you need your patch to have. Cut out the tracing along the new, larger lines; this is your stencil. Lay this stencil over the patching fabric, and cut out your patch.

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Now that you have your patch ready, lay it out on top of the hole in the clothing, which should be inside out. Secure it with some pins.

If possible, you can measure around this area and take double the amount of thread to the result. Thread your needle and pull the thread until its ends align with each other. Make a knot, and you’re ready to sew!

Then, start on any kind of stitch to fix your patch in place. You should make the stitches as tight and small as possible.

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A slip stitch means that your needle will go through your fabric in a diagonal direction. If you do decide to go with this option, you should keep the stitches very small.

If you don’t, you could risk the fabric moving, or the thread might bunch out.

Keep the pins in until you’ve finished your sewing. When you’re done, fix the ends before cutting any excess thread.

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HOW TO SEW DIFFERENT TYPES OF PATCHES

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It’s amazing how each patch is different. What’s more exciting is that you can change the look of your denim clothing or accessories by using unique patches.

FIXING WITHOUT ANY STITCHES

In case you don’t have the supplies or simply don’t want to sew for some reason, there is a way to patch up your clothing without stitching it.

Again, you want to make sure that the clothing item is inside out and laying flat on a horizontal surface. Now, put a piece of paper or cardboard under the hole and make your stencil as you do with the stitching version.

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Next, you can apply fabric glue or adhesive to the hole’s border. There should be enough all-around to come into contact with the overlapping patch.

Now, smooth out the patching fabric and cut out the patch according to the stencil. You’ll have to wait a bit before sticking it on, according to the instructions on the adhesive.

In case you’re using fusion webbing, you should follow the instruction on the specific kind you have. Again, you’ll have to apply the webbing all around the border and then stick on the patch.

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Then, you can iron on the patch in order to apply the required heat for activating the webbing.

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APPLIQUÉD PATCH

Now that you know how to sew on a patch, let’s take a look at how to sew an appliquéd patch. An appliquéd patch is sewn by hand or a machine right onto the face of your garment.

After measuring and pinning the pans, you use a blanket switch for hand-appliqué. That has turned edges. For a sewing machine, you’ll use tight stitches in a zigzag fashion.

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HANDMADE OVERHAND PATCH

It’s another kind of patch you sew from the face or the right side of your clothing article. If the garment has a thick fabric, you’ll use a thinner one for the overhand patch. If you don’t, the patch will project outwards.

OVERHAND PATCH

For an overhand patch, you should make the hole or rip into a square shape first. Next, cut out a square patch that’s a little bigger than your square hole. Press the patch’s edges about a quarter of the way inside the hole. Then, baste it with stitches along the edges.

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EMBROIDERED PATCH

For additional flair, you can also get patches that have embroidery on them. These are usually of thick fabric and come in all shapes and sizes.

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If you buy these, you can attach them right onto the denim without turning down the edges. That’s because the edges are usually prefinished and resistant to fraying.

You can then apply the patch on the fabric using tiny hand stitches or a sewing machine. Check out whipstitching for handwork, and baste the fabric together beforehand.

Once you’ve applied the patch to the hole, turn the garment inside out. Now finish off the edges with an overcast stitch, and you’re done! For durability, you can sew the patch down one more time.

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REVERSE APPLIQUÉ PATCH

A reverse appliqué patch is applied from the back of your garment. You cut the hole in the shape of the appliqué design, and stitch all around the hole’s edge.

For this method, satin or small zigzag stitches are best. However, you can also use a straight stitch. If you want the stitching line to be visible, you might want to put two spools in your sewing machine.

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DARNING PATCH

You can sew a darning patch by putting a patch of fabric underneath the hole. Then, use very close straight stitches to sew the patch all around. You may use the reverse switch as well in order to make sure everything is in place.

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You should also make sure to use a colored thread of exact machine on both the bottom and the top. If you don’t want the stitched cloth to be visible, it’s wise not to go for a light color for the thread. If you can’t find the exact same color, you can choose something darker instead.

FLANNEL PATCH

A flannel patch is made of felt and can be either a match or contrast in color. You can start off by cutting a piece in a square shape, making sure it’s larger than the hole.

Now, put your patch above the hole, and baste the two fabrics together. Use buttonhole stitches to apply the patch firmly to the original fabric.

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Next, you turn the clothing article inside out and cut away the worn or frayed edges. Use catch stitches to affix the patch properly, and pluck out the basting stitches.

You may also choose to keep the flannel or felt underneath the hole. That will be an advantage, as it would prevent the patch’s edges from fraying. However, you might not find this technique as comfortable as putting the patch outside the hole.

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WHICH PATCH WILL WORK WONDERS ON YOUR JEANS?

So, will you be using a regular patch on your denim clothing, or something a bit different? Whichever one you choose, sewing on a patch is definitely a cost-effective and adorable way to change up your wardrobe!

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Do you now know how to sew on a patch in a perfect fashion? Let us know about your experience.

DENIM and PATCHES sourced this post originally published on this site

Get the Size Wrong, and There’s No Fixing It

I love shrink-to-fit jeans. Most of the one I’ve worn fit brilliantly. But I’ve also made mistakes. 

In the early days of Denimhunters, I convinced Levi’s to send me a stack of LVC 501 jeans—different years, different fabrics—that I had readers wear them for months to see how they shrank and broke in.

Why? I wanted to understand how shrink-to-fit works. 

Because even when you think you’ve got it figured out, unsanforized denim doesn’t behave the same from one pair to the next. And that’s where most people get it wrong.

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The Problem with Shrink-to-Fit

“Just size up, and they’ll shrink to fit.” That’s how shrink-to-fit is often framed—including by Levi’s Vintage Clothing: buy ‘em big, and they’ll shrink down to fit.

But it’s not that simple. Some pairs shrink down to the tagged size. Others start oversized, so you need to size down. And some even require you to size up just to get a comfortable fit.

So when Bryan suggested we should do a shrink-to-fit selvedge guide, I didn’t have to think twice. Because if you don’t know how a specific pair behaves before you buy it, you’re just guessing—and with shrink-to-fit, there are no second chances once they’ve been soaked, you can’t return them.

We’ve rounded up more than a dozen of the best shrink-to-fit selvedge brands—and, more importantly, broken down how each of them shrinks and whether you need to size up, down, or go true to size. This guide helps you get that right the first time.

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The Challenge of Getting the Right Size

Tagged size used to match actual measurements—what’s known as true-to-size (TTS). So a size 34 would measure 34 inches in the waist.

That changed with vanity sizing. Today, a tagged 34 often measures 35, 36 or even 37 inches, depending on the brand. Heritage selvedge brands—especially Japanese repro makers—tend to stick closer to TTS, but there’s no universal standard anymore.

With shrink-to-fit, it gets even trickier. Now you’re not just dealing with whether a brand uses TTS or vanity sizing—you also need to know whether the tagged size refers to the jeans before shrinkage or after.

With that little explainer out of the way, I wanted to share my two cents on a few of the brands in the guide that I’ve actually worn myself.

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Indigofera’s No. 2 “Shrink-to-Prima-Fit” Selvedge

This is one of those cases where the “size up one” rule actually works—if you know your size in the first place.

I’ve owned several pairs of Indigofera’s No. 2 denims—Clints, Kirks, even the Burg & Schild collab. It’s a 16 oz. selvedge with a lot of character; natural slubs and small imperfections. One of my first pairs has two clear weaving flaws, and it’s that kind of detail that makes it even more special to me.

In terms of sizing, you should size up one and expect them to land where you want. I wear a 31 in Indigofera’s sanforized jeans, but I go with a 32 in their shrink-to-fit pairs, and that’s worked consistently for me.

That said, this denim isn’t something you’ll always find in stock. Indigofera doesn’t offer it as a permanent part of the collection, so you need to catch the No. 2 when it’s available. And at this price point, you also want to be sure you’re getting it right.

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Iron Heart Ultra Heavy Raw (UHR)

After wearing Indigofera more or less exclusively for 4–5 years, I got into Iron Heart in 2018—and, of course, I had to try their unsanforized UHR too.

I got mine in the same size as my other Iron Heart jeans, and that turned out to be the right call. Even though it’s loomstate and supposed to shrink, I didn’t find that it changed all that much in practice.

So rather than sizing up and relying on shrinkage, you’re better off starting close to where you actually want them to end up.

That’s worth keeping in mind, because this is one of those pairs where you might expect a dramatic change after the first soak—but don’t necessarily get it. The denim is incredibly dense, and whatever shrinkage happens doesn’t fundamentally change the fit.

It’s also worth noting that Iron Heart calls this “raw” for a reason. Most of their jeans are rinsed, so if you want truly unprocessed denim from the brand, this is it.

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Other Pairs from the Guide I’ve Worn

While Indigofera and Iron Heart have been my main rotation for more than a decade—until I launched my own brand, Weirloom—I’ve also spent time with several of the other denims in the guide along the way.

Warehouse’s Banner Denim and Studio D’Artisan’s SD-101, both in their unwashed versions, are good reminders that even when you think you’ve got shrink-to-fit figured out, different denims still behave in their own ways. 

Mister Freedom is another case, where the jeans are designed to shrink down to your tagged size—which sounds straightforward, but still depends on getting the starting point right.

And then there’s Big John. I had the chance to pick up a pair of their RARE jeans more than a decade ago, when Brund first stocked the brand—but I didn’t pull the trigger. I’ve regretted that ever since.

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Getting Shrink-to-Fit Right

If you’re getting into shrink-to-fit—or coming back to it—it’s worth taking the time to get it right.

Because when it works, it’s hard to beat. The fabric, the fit, the way it fades. But when you get the sizing wrong, there’s no fixing it after the first soak. 

To avoid the guesswork and find a pair that actually works for you, start with our shrink-to-fit selvedge guide.

The post Why “Just Size Up” Doesn’t Work with All Shrink-to-Fits appeared first on Denimhunters.

DENIM and PATCHES sourced this post originally published on this site

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What You Need to Know Before Buying and Soaking Shrink-to-Fit Selvedge Jeans

Unwashed, unsanforized selvedge is one of the most rewarding and essential experiences you can have with a pair of jeans. The denims are drop-dead gorgeous, full of texture and character, and the fit can (if you get it right) be among the best you’ll ever experience.

But shrink-to-fit selvedge is also full of risks. The denim shrinks a considerable amount when washed or soaked, and no two denims are exactly alike. Before you dive in headfirst, you need to know exactly what you’re getting into. 

We’ve rounded up more than a dozen brands that make excellent shrink-to-fit selvedge jeans. To help you get the fit and size right, we’ll tell you something about how these denims perform when washed. If you’ve got to size up, go true to size, or size down, we’ll let you know. 

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Unsanforized, Shrink-to-Fit, Loomstate, and Unwashed: What’s the Difference?

Sometimes used on their own, sometimes in bunches, the terms unwashed, unsanforized, shrink-to-fit, and loomstate all say something about how either the denim or the assembled pair was treated before it arrived at the store.

Unwashed refers to pairs that have not been washed after they have been assembled into jeans. Unwashed pairs might be made from either sanforized or unsanforized denim.

Unsanforized refers to denim that has not been subject to the process of sanforization (defined below). Plenty of brands and retailers offer pairs that are unsanforized but have been washed once in the factory. Unwashed and unsanforized denim will shrink by as much as 10% when washed or soaked. 

Shrink-to-fit is the consumer-facing name used for denim that will shrink a considerable amount when washed or soaked for the first time. Shrink-to-fit denim is usually unsanforized, but some brands will label lightly sanforized pairs as shrink-to-fit. The denim will shrink when washed, but some brands’ pairs will shrink more than others.

Loomstate is the rarest and “rawest” of all denims. Loomstate denim hasn’t been washed or sanforized, and it has not been singed (removing the small hairs on the surface of the jeans) or skewed (pre-twisted to account for leg twist). It comes straight off the loom and into your hands.  

In this guide, we’ll be looking exclusively at selvedge denims that are both unwashed and unsanforized. That means all of these denims are shrink-to-fit, but not all of them are loomstate.

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The Best Shrink-to-Fit Selvedge Brands

Only a small number of brands produce unwashed and unsanforized jeans, and even fewer retailers stock them. 

The ones who do tend to be quite knowledgeable about what they’re selling, but don’t count on it. Do your research beforehand to make sure you’re getting the right product in the right size. 

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What is Unsanforized Selvedge?

Sanforization is a chemical and mechanical process, invented in 1928 and patented in 1930 by American engineer Sanford Lockwood Cluett, who was trying to solve the problem of shrinking shirt collars (his family owned the firm that manufactured Arrow shirts).

Through a combination of heat, moisture, and pressure, fabrics are subjected to complementary processes of shrinking and stretching. The result is fabrics that shrink very little (usually less than 5%) when washed for the first time.

Blue Bell (later to be Wrangler) and Lee introduced sanforized workwear in the 1930s. Levi’s, though, held out for decades, finally introducing sanforization to some of their pairs only in the 1960s. The iconic 501 remained an unsanforized, shrink-to-fit product until the brand bowed to consumer pressure and began sanforizing them in the 1980s.

For a more detailed and technical explanation of sanforization, visit our Denim Encylopedia.

For decades, Levi’s marketed the bug of shrinking denim as a feature. To get the “perfect” fit, consumers would jump into the bathtub wearing their fresh and raw pair. This experience largely disappeared from the denim landscape until heritage enthusiasts, first in Japan and then in the rest of the world, resurrected it.

Today, sanforized denims are the norm, even among top-shelf heritage brands. Consumers are as panicky as ever about shrinking denim, so it’s expedient for brands and retailers to make and sell either pre-washed or sanforized pairs that will shrink only a marginal amount. 

Still, some of us prefer unsanforized selvedge, finding charm in its appearance, feel, and performance. This is denim as its makers intended—the rough and unrefined combination of indigo and cotton. It’s something that needs to be experienced to be fully appreciated. 

So which is better, sanforized or unsanforized denim? We weigh in on this question below.

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Is Unsanforized Selvedge Better than Sanforized?

Denim purists, who tend to be allergic to innovations, will tell you that unsanforized selvedge is the only true denim–the closest you can get to the true-blue, mid-century original.

But this kind of uncompromising denim love isn’t just about historical fidelity. You get certain things with unsfanforized selvedge that you can’t get with sanforized or once-washed pairs: primarily character and handfeel.

Sanforization results in a flattened and smoothened denim. Unfanforized denim has more loft and a hairier look and feel. It’s really only noticeable from very close up, but the small difference makes all the difference for denim purists.

There’s also the fact that unsanforized denim shrinks a considerable amount. Those who’ve been around the block with unsanforized pairs will tell you that the shrink-to-fit process produces an unmatched fit in the top block.

The denim shrinks slightly more where it is loose and slightly less where it meets resistance around your hips and thighs. When you get the sizing and soak right, the result is a fit that feels tailored to your body. It’s enough to turn the first-timer into a lifelong convert. 

Of course, sanforized denim has its benefits as well. It is far more predictable than its unsanforized cousin. Sanforized pairs tend to shrink somewhere in the range of 2-5%. This is roughly the same amount that they will stretch. Each time you wash the pair, it usually snugs up, returning to roughly the same size it was when you purchased it.

Unwashed sanforized denim shrinks somewhere in the range of 5-10% when introduced to water for the first time and will often continue shrinking for 2-3 subsequent washes. When it’s done shrinking, you can expect to have lost at least a full tag size in the waist and around 2-3 inches in the inseam.

Which is better? If you’ve never tried unsanforized denim before, the answer comes down to your risk appetite. Retailers and brands will not allow you to return pairs that have been soaked, so this is definitely one of those buyer beware moments.

If risk turns your stomach, stick with sanforized pairs (you’ll be spoiled for choice). If you’re willing to fly by the seat of your pants, you’ll be opening a door to some of the world’s most beautiful denims and best fits.

You can mitigate the risks by following the steps we outlined above. The more you know about the particular product you’re interested in, the more likely you’ll be to get exactly what you want out of your unsanforized pair. Do your homework and there shouldn’t be any surprises. 

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Complete the Vintage Look

Looking to complete the vintage look? Check out our guides to high-rise selvedge jeans and heritage chambray shirts. 

The post Shrink-to-Fit Selvedge: How to Buy Unsanforized Jeans appeared first on Denimhunters.

DENIM and PATCHES sourced this post originally published on this site