Get the Best of Unsanforized Selvegde Without Sizing Risks
When you dive into the world of well-made selvedge, you quickly encounter brands that pride themselves on richly textured denim.
Much of that denim is unsanforized, meaning it hasn’t been pre-shrunk before being cut and sewn into jeans—and that can make getting the right size a real challenge.
The solution to this was introduced nearly a century ago: sanforization.
Sanforization is a mechanical process that pre-shrinks fabric, making sizing more predictable, but it comes with downsides: sanforizing smooths out some of the texture. This texture rises to the surface with fading, but, when it is new, some people find sanforized denim a little flat.
If you want some of the most richly textured denims on the planet without any of the sizing headaches associated with shrink-to-fit denim, you should be looking at one-washed, unsanforized selvedge.
The denim is left unsanforized, but it is washed once at the factory. This removes most of the shrinkage while preserving the texture and character of fresh-off-the-loom selvedge.
That first wash does more than just control shrinkage. Unsanforized denim is tightly rolled after weaving, and washing it opens up the fabric—raising fibres to the surface, tightening the weave, and settling the stitching.
The result is denim that draws the hand and the eye immediately. How they’ll fade—that part’s up to you. How they’ll look and fit after that first wash—that question has been answered for you.
TL;DR – Top Picks of One-Washed Unsanforized Selvedge
- Oni – The reigning kings of highly textured and once-washed selvedge.
- Samurai – Off-the-charts fade potential and some of the sharpest cuts in the game.
- The Strike Gold – Rough and crisp denims that fade like nothing else.
All the jeans you’ll find in the guide below are made from unsanforized denim that’s been washed at the factory, making sizing far easier to get right while preserving the texture.
For unwashed, shrink-to-fit denim—which hasn’t been treated at all and will shrink significantly with the first soak—see our guide to unsanforized shrink-to-fit selvedge.
The Best Brands for One-Washed Unsanforized Selvedge
The brands we’ll cover here all specialise in one-washed unsanforized pairs. We’ll let you know what to expect with each brand and how to approach sizing to get a perfect fit.
Oni
The undisputed kings of textured, one-wash selvedge
The gatekeepers of the most closely guarded secrets in the selvedge game, Oni work with some of the industry’s most-experienced weavers and dyers. Their denims brim with texture that demands close (even microscopic) attention.
It’s no surprise that a brand that places texture in the foreground does everything they can to help customers appreciate the work and expertise that’s gone into creating this selvedge. Their one-washed selvedge is nothing short of magical.
Each Oni denim reacts differently when washed, so their sizing varies significantly. Read the size charts carefully. You may need to size up or down to get a perfect fit.
Oni’s signature is loose weaves, which means their denims will stretch out more than more tightly woven denims. With loosely woven pairs, expect at least a full tag size of stretch. Start with a very snug fit.
Oni is sold at: Redcast Heritage (ES), Blue in Green (US), and Hinoya (JP)
Samurai
The perfect brand for faders with high-contrast aspirations
More than any other brand in Japan, Samurai approach each new denim thinking about how it will fade. For those looking for dramatic fades with incredibly sharp contrasts, Samurai denims deliver the goods.
Samurai once offered unwashed and unsanforized versions of some of their iconic pairs, but they seem to have transitioned over the last few years to only offering one-washed versions of their pairs (usually, but not always, marked with “II” at the end of the model number).
Samurai’s one-washed pairs tend to be on the tight side for those at the upper end of a given size range. They’re often a little larger than the tag size at the bottom of the size range. Double and triple check the measurements before ordering.
Samurai’s denims are also quite stiff and unforgiving. They won’t stretch out much, so choose a size that will hug your waist comfortably from day one.
You can buy Samurai from these retailers: Franklin & Poe (US), Brooklyn Clothing (CA), Blue in Green (US), and Redcast Heritage (ES).
The Strike Gold
Rough and crisp selvedge that fades like nothing else
Crisp and richly textured, Strike Gold’s denims are prized for their exceptional fade potential. Rough, hairy, and loosely woven, the denims are produced slowly and with tremendous care—something that becomes more apparent as the denim ages.
With details like cotton threads and rivets that are copper on the outside and iron on the inside, these pairs show their age like few others. They will likely require more repair work than pairs sewn with poly-cotton threads, but that’s part of the charm.
Most Strike Gold pairs run on the large side. For a slim fit, you’ll likely want to size down for a snug fit bordering on tight. Thanks to their loose weave, you can expect them to stretch out to a very comfortable fit.
The Strike Gold offer a few of their pairs in both washed and unwashed versions. The unwashed versions will shrink to fit. When both options are available, they are clearly marked as either “one wash” or “non-wash” next to the tag size. There are different size charts for each version.
The Strike Gold is sold at Redcast Heritage (ES) and Those That Know (UK)
Sugar Cane
A conservative repro brand for the classic selvedge experience
With the same parent company as perennial Denimhunters favourites like Buzz Rickson’s and Whitesville, Sugar Cane produce deeply respectful versions of American casual icons. A great choice for those who want the best of both the new and the old worlds.
Their denims look and feel traditional. They don’t rely on heavy texture or visual impact—instead, they deliver a clean, understated take on vintage repro denim that rewards long-term wear.
Sugar Cane’s pairs are generally close to true-to-size, but definitely not close enough to rely on tag size alone. Check the measurements carefully—you may need to size up or down for a perfect fit.
Sugar Cane has both sanforized and unsanforized denims in their range. If you’re ordering elsewhere than through the link below, this is definitely a brand that you’ll want to double-check specifications before you order to make sure you’re getting an unsanforized pair.
Sugar Cane is available at: Redcast Heritage (ES), Franklin & Poe (US), Blue in Green (US), Hinoya (JP), and Iron Shop Provisions (US).
Omoto Denim
A fast riser in the selvedge scene for very good reasons
The newest brand on this list was founded by a former member of the Momotaro team who broke off to create his own line of vintage-minded jeans. The brand has made a strong and immediate impression, stacking up retailers around the world in short order.
At the moment, they’re working with two selvedge denims, a lightweight 13.5 oz. selvedge and a 15.5 oz. middleweight. The wash brings a ton of texture to the surface with both denims, and it’s easy to see why the brand has been winning new fans everywhere they touch down.
Omoto pairs were likely true-to-size before washing. The factory wash has shrunk them by as much as two full tag sizes. Check the measurements carefully. You may need to size way down to get a perfect fit with this brand.
Omoto Denim is sold at Redcast Heritage (US), Cultizm (DE), Franklin & Poe (US), Brooklyn Clothing Co. (CA), Hinoya (JP)
Warehouse
Impeccable in every possible way
Any conversation about unsanforized selvedge has to include Warehouse. Widely regarded in Japan as the first name in reproductions of American icons from the ‘40s, ‘50s, and ‘60s, unsanforized denim is right in their wheelhouse.
Warehouse denims are all highly conservative, but this is a big part of their appeal for those looking for a truly classic denim experience. They fade brilliantly, especially when worn a ton and washed regularly.
Warehouse pairs run small, and the discrepancy between the measurements and the tag size increases as the size climbs. Especially if you’re in one of the larger sizes, you might need to size down two sizes to get a perfect fit.
Warehouse is sold at Lost & Found (CA), Cultizm (DE), Hinoya (JP), and Clutch Café (UK).
TCB Jeans
No-nonsense selvedge, perfect for newcomers
TCB pairs fly off the shelves faster than retailers can stock them, in large part due to the brand’s ability to provide metric tons of value. With more bang for your buck than just about any other brand, they’re a great choice for anybody who wants to get a lot without digging deep to get it.
With all of their pairs washed thoroughly in the factory, the denim is remarkably plush and soft. Few pairs are this comfortable out of the box, and even fewer are this easy to wear day in and day out. No matter what the weight or cut, TCB pairs are the cat’s meow.
Another pair that is likely true-to-size before the factory wash. The wash shrinks each pair by around two tag sizes, so this is definitely a pair you’ll want to size up with. You can expect the denim to stretch by at least an inch in the waist, so aim for a very snug fit when trying them on.
TCB is available at: Redcast Heritage (ES), Cultizm (DE), and Franklin & Poe (US)
Full Count
Easy-wearing selvedge from a legendary Japanese brand
The first brand to experiment with Zimbabwean cotton, Full Count were also one of the first brands to start pushing ounces upwards. Rather than painstakingly reproducing classics, they’ve always gone out of their way to push the industry into new and interesting territory.
Their 13.7 oz. and 15.5 oz. selvedge denims remain some of the best-possible introductions to the world of easy-wearing, well-made selvedge. Can produce contrasts if pushed, but it’s best to lean into their strengths and push for beautiful vintage fades with plenty of wear and washing.
Most Full Count pairs will fit true-to-size, but you can expect them to stretch out by around a full tag size with plenty of wear. Start with a very snug fit around the waist. They’ll stretch out to fit very comfortably.
Buy Full Count at Redcast Heritage (ES), Blue in Green (US), Cultizm (DE), Clutch Café (UK)
Graph Zero
Pushing boundaries with every pair
One of the most creative selvedge brands in the space, Graph Zero have gained a stellar reputation in Japan and around the world for their willingness to experiment with new approaches to selvedge.
Each pair is a showcase of Japan’s unrivalled textile expertise. Dyed and woven by some of the most passionate artisans on the planet, these denims have a wow factor that few brands can match.
Graph Zero pairs usually run a little on the small side, but, with the loose weave, you can expect them to stretch by around a full tag size. You might be able to order your typical size, but you’ll want to double check the measurements (especially if you wear a large size).
Graph Zero is sold at Redcast Heritage (ES) and Cultizm (DE).
Tanuki
Best coloured wefts in the scene
One of the most slept-on brands in the scene, Tanuki can rival brands like Oni and PBJ for beautifully textured denims. They’ve also got some of the most flattering cuts out there. A great choice for those looking to make a powerful style statement with their pair.
Tanuki have always been a brand that do something very special on the inside of their jeans. Their coloured wefts make each pair as beautiful on the reverse side as they are on the outside.
Tanuki pairs are usually pretty close to their tag size, but larger fellas may want to size down. With their loose weave, you can expect around an inch of stretch in the waist, so aim for a snug fit when trying on.
Tanuki is available at Redcast Heritage (ES) and Blue Beach Denim (TW)
Momotaro
Easy-going and unmistakable
With a strong reputation that stretches around the globe, Momotaro is, for many denimheads, the door to the world of well-made Japanese selvedge. An excellent starting point for your next fade journey.
With a wide-ranging choice of denims and cuts, Momotaro leave only some of their pairs unsanforized. The link below will take you to the unsanforized pairs in the Momotaro lineup.
Most Momotaro pairs are pretty close to their tagged size (usually within an inch or so). With a tighter weave you can expect a little less stretch—usually less than an inch—as the denim relaxes.
Momotaro is stocked at: Redcast Heritage (ES), Cultizm (DE), Franklin & Poe (US), Division Road (US), Hinoya (JP), Blue Beach Denim (TW), DeeCee Style (CH)
The Flat Head
Back from the brink and better than ever
Since re-emerging a couple of years ago as a more streamlined heritage brand, The Flat Head have been reminding denimheads exactly what put them on the map in the early aughts. Still an excellent choice for those who want high contrast fades without the high ounces.
If you’ve heard the name but haven’t yet sampled the denims, this is a great time to introduce yourself to the brand. Their flagship Pioneer Denim is a legend in the scene for very good reasons.
Flat Head’s one-washed pairs are on the small side (especially in the bigger sizes). It’s likely you’ll want to size up, but you’ll want to double-check the measurements to confirm this. Expect a little less than an inch of stretch.
The Flat Head offer a few of their pairs in both washed and unwashed versions. The unwashed versions will shrink to fit. For the link we’ve provided below, when both options are available, they are clearly marked as either “one wash” or “non-wash” next to the tag size. There are different size charts for each version.
The Flat Head is available at: Redcast Heritage (ES), Franklin & Poe (US), and Iron Shop Provisions (US)
Resolute
Utterly essential for vintage faders
Founded by legendary Japanese denim designer Yoshiyuki Hayashi in 2010, Resolute quickly established themselves as a force to be reckoned with in the industry. If, like Hayashi-san, you think jeans reached the peak with the 501 produced in the 1960s, this brand is not to be missed.
To bring out the best in these exceptional pairs, treat them to regular washing and even more regular wearing. They’ll reward you with vintage, washed-out blues and train tracks like you wouldn’t believe.
Resolutes run quite small, so you might need to size up by two full tag sizes. They’ll likely stretch less than an inch as they relax, so take this into account when looking at the measurement charts.
Pure Blue Japan
Dripping with texture and indigo
One of the first brands to really push the envelope with highly textured denims, PBJ quickly earned a cult-like following among fade enthusiasts. If you’re looking for a pair that ages like a fine wine, you can’t do much better than PBJ.
It’s no surprise that a brand that prides itself on their beautifully textured denims, PBJ gives each pair a vigorous wash to bring that texture to the surface. The only thing more beautiful than a fresh pair of PBJs is a faded pair.
Most PBJ pairs are smaller than their tag size might suggest. You’ll likely need to size up for a perfect fit, though a few of their pairs will fit true-to-size. Check the measurements carefully.
You can get Pure Blue Japan at Redcast Heritage (ES), Franklin & Poe (US), Brooklyn Clothing Co. (CA), Blue in Green (US), DeeCee Style (CH), and Clutch Café (UK)
orSlow
A perfect bridge into the world of well-made pairs
With a fan base that extends well beyond the selvedge scene, orSlow have helped introduce a ton of fashion-conscious consumers to the wide world of well-made Japanese selvedge and heritage menswear.
They’ve done this with deeply respectful and quietly conservative jeans that speak volumes without raising the volume. Lean into their wheelhouse by wearing them daily and washing them frequently. Can produce stunning vintage fades when they’re pushed hard.
orSlow offer their pairs in six sizes, running from 0 (equivalent to a 29W) to a 5 (equivalent to a 36). They’ll stretch out by around a full tag size in the waist. Read the size charts carefully and pick one that will fit very snugly around your waist when you first try them on.
orSlow is sold at Cultizm (DE) and Blue in Green (US)
Still Not Finding the Perfect Brand for You?
If you want a broader look at the best denim brands in the scene, you’ll find a more complete list of Japanese, European, American, and Southeast Asian brands in our Selvedge Masterlist or Thomas’ guide to The Best Raw Denim Brands in the World.
Should you want to dive even deeper into the Japanese denim scene, Thomas’ Definitive Guide to Japanese Denim Brands is a good place to start.
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I’m Thomas, founder of Denimhunters. Once a week, I send an email with what I’m working on and writing—new guides, deals, and things worth paying attention to.
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