Nick from Stridewise on Southeast Asian Denim, Bryan on Rugby Shirts, and More Stories
Last week’s SOSO Brothers giveaway for a pair of Ghost Double Black jeans is over, and we’ve found a lucky winner. Congratulations—and welcome to everyone who entered the giveaway and signed up for the DH Weekly in the process 🤗
All new subscribers get my welcome email, which is sent automatically. The DH Weekly isn’t automated or an AI-generated slop sent out on a schedule. I actually sit down and write these every week based on what’s happening around Denimhunters, what I’m working on, and the things that catch my attention.
Normally, I write the DH Weekly on the day they go out. This week, I’m doing it a day early because, this week, we have Ascension Day. In Denmark, this means schools are closed for an extra-long weekend, so my kids are home and I’m off tomorrow, well, today 🤪
This week’s issue is a bit more mixed than last week’s T-shirt rabbit hole. If you missed that one, or if you’re new to the DH Weekly, you can still read it here.
We’re heading into Southeast Asia’s growing raw denim scene with a guest feature from Nick of Stridewise, looking at two rugby shirts Bryan thinks pair perfectly with selvedge denim, and revisiting one of Indonesia’s best-known makers from the Denimhunters archive.
In This Issue of the DH Weekly
- Southeast Asian denim brands — Nick English explores one of the most interesting parts of the global raw denim scene right now
- Rugby shirts for selvedge people — Bryan looks at two standout options from Heimat and Barbarian
- Things Worth Your Attention — striped tees from Gustin, Oni Secret Black denim, and a Whitesville restock
- From the Archive — revisiting Indonesian maker Piger Works
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Guest Feature on Southeast Asian Denim Brands
Back in 2019, when Jake (@almostvintagestyle) and I were doing the Denim & Boots Podcast, he mentioned this guy, Nick, who was building a site called Stridewise. Fast forward to today, and Nick’s got one of the most impressive independent publications in the heritage and footwear space.
Honestly, his output is a little intimidating for a perfectionist like me. Between Stridewise, his YouTube channel, newsletters, and now even his own leather goods business, I genuinely don’t know how he keeps up the pace.
Nick and I connected a few years ago through Instagram, and we’ve stayed in touch since then. When I launched Weirloom last year, he featured it in his newsletter, and earlier this year, he reached out as he’s working on a new business focused on bringing more Southeast Asian makers to a wider audience.
That conversation eventually turned into the guest feature here on Denimhunters. In the article, Nick explores a side of the raw denim world that still flies under the radar for many Western enthusiasts: the growing selvedge scene across Southeast Asia.
From heavyweight Indonesian denim and natural indigo makers to newer brands experimenting with fits and fabrics, there’s a lot happening outside Japan right now—and Nick’s spent time visiting many of these workshops firsthand.
If your mental map of raw denim still begins and ends in Japan, this one’s worth your time.
Two Rugby Shirts Built for Selvedge Style
With massive cross-over appeal, rugby shirts have become a staple in nearly every corner of menswear.
For those of us who wear denim with near-religious devotion, a good rugby shirt pairs perfectly with heavy selvedge and is ready for almost any occasion.
Bryan’s a recent convert to the world of rugby shirts, and he’s picked up two standouts: one from our good friends at Heimat in Germany, the other from Canadian rugby specialist Barbarian.
There are countless rugby shirts to choose from, but Bryan thinks these two are especially worth considering. If you’re looking for the perfect rugby shirt, this is where we’d start.
Things Worth Your Attention This Week
Gustin’s Retro Stripe Tees Nail That 1950s Americana Look
Gustin just launched a series of striped Japanese jersey T-shirts that instantly reminded me of those old photos of kids in the 1950s wearing jeans and striped tees that somehow looked effortlessly cool without trying too hard.
Maybe it’s also because I’m rewatching Mad Men at the moment, but they feel exactly like something Bobby Draper would’ve worn running around in suburban America in the early ‘60s.
The colours and stripe combinations are spot on, and they also remind me a bit of some old Levi’s Vintage Clothing tees I had years ago that I still kind of regret getting rid of.
The fabric itself looks excellent too: soft Japanese jersey with slightly more refined construction details than you usually get at this price point.
Oni’s Secret Black Denim Has Reappeared
Oni’s Secret Denim has become almost mythical among denim enthusiasts over the years because of its absurd texture, low-tension weave, and strangely soft feel despite the heavy weight.
Now, several retailers—including Cultizm—have started getting new deliveries of the double-black version in a range of fits, including the 622 Relax Tapered, 200 Wide Straight, and 288 Regular Straight.
At 20 oz., this is proper heavy denim. But unlike a lot of heavyweight black denims, this one develops real texture and contrast as it fades instead of just turning flat grey over time.
If you’ve been waiting for a restock, now’s probably the time.
Whitesville’s Tees Are Back in Stock
Last week’s T-shirt issue featured Whitesville’s excellent two-pack loopwheel tees—the same ones worn by Carmy in The Bear.
Redcast just announced a restock in multiple sizes, and if you’ve been curious about getting into loopwheeled T-shirts without spending Real McCoy’s money, these are still one of the best entry points out there.
They run small, though, so size up.
From the Archive: Piger Works and Thailand’s Fade Culture
Nick’s article this week touches on several Southeast Asian brands that deserve more attention outside the region, including Thailand’s Piger Works.
A couple of years ago, Bryan reviewed their 20 oz. “Master of Fades” jeans, and it remains one of the best deep-dives on why the Thai fade scene developed the way it did.
Thailand has built one of the strongest fade cultures anywhere in the world over the past decade. The climate plays a role, but just as important is the way brands like Piger Works engineer denim specifically for high-contrast fading.
Piger’s heavyweight fabrics, intense indigo saturation, and heavily overbuilt construction have made them something of a cult favourite among serious faders, especially through competitions like the Indigo Invitational.
Bryan’s review goes deep into the details: the 20 oz. denim itself, the construction choices, the fit, and what makes these jeans fade the way they do. But more importantly, it captures a moment when Southeast Asian denim stopped being viewed as an outsider scene and started demanding real global attention.
If Nick’s article made you curious to explore further, this is a good place to continue.
The post This Denim Scene Still Doesn’t Get Enough Attention appeared first on Denimhunters.
DENIM and PATCHES sourced this post originally published on this site