DENIMandPATCHES

This is a guest post by Nick English, founder of Stridewise—one of the web’s leading publications dedicated to quality boots, heritage menswear, and well-made everyday carry.

The Tiger Cub Economies Are Making Some Really Great Selvedge Jeans

Everyone wears jeans; some people want the best possible version of jeans, and most of them wind up looking at Japan.

Beyond their famous, culturally reinforced attention to detail, denim enthusiasts tend to buy Japanese denim because of the high concentration of brands using vintage shuttle looms, traditional and experimental dyeing methods, historically informed designs, and cutting-edge fabric science.  

But while Japan has been building its brand as a futuristic planet of the most advanced products imaginable, selvedge denim brands have been quietly sprouting all across the Tiger Cub Economies.

Why Southeast Asia Is a Selvedge Sleeper Hub

The old-fashioned selvedge denim we love is made on shuttle looms, and it’s a widespread misconception that all the world’s shuttle looms are in Japan. You probably already know that shuttle looms can be found in the United States, Italy, the UK, China, and elsewhere.

But there are dozens of brands in Southeast Asia that are making their own high-end raw denim jeans—many even make them with selvedge denim woven domestically. There are, in fact, plenty of shuttle looms in Indonesia and Thailand, and many brands dotted around the region are worn and loved by local enthusiasts.

You might have heard of a few Southeast Asian outfits—Thailand’s Piger Works and Indonesia’s Oldblue are relatively well known—but there are dozens of others that fly under the radar. 

Why aren’t they better known outside of their home countries? Sometimes it’s because of domestic economic policies that make exporting costly or impractical. This can cause many businesses to be more or less sealed from the outside world. 

But many Southeast Asian denim workshops go unrecognised by the international community of denimheads simply due to the expense and labour of marketing and selling to overseas markets. Reaching Western customers typically requires more staff, skills, and capital.

Here are nine Southeast Asian denim brands I think more people should know about.

Editor’s Note: This isn’t intended as a definitive list of every Southeast Asian denim brand. Instead, Nick has focused on labels he believes deserve more international attention right now—brands chosen for their originality, local influence, distinctive fabrics, or the role they’re playing in shaping the region’s growing selvedge scene.

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FROM MALAYSIA

Raw Denim House

Modern workwear with local mythology woven in

Malaysia doesn’t currently make their own selvedge, but Raw Denim House use denim sourced from China and Japan to design, cut, and sew their jeans in the nation’s northeastern state of Terengganu.

RDH has managed to build a pretty distinct identity, selling both classic jeans and their own distinct patterns that include cargo jeans, double knees with diamond stitching, and “bush pants” with flap pockets on the thighs.

When I visited them, I was especially interested in the way they infused their designs with local mythology: some jeans had arcuates inspired by local interpretations of the monkey god Hanuman, others were decorated with their town’s mascot: the fighting rooster, once used to settle the area’s inter-kingdom tax disputes.

Raw Denim House are active on Instagram, which is probably the easiest way to follow new releases and special projects, though they also have a website.

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FROM MALAYSIA

Marrow

Postmodern silhouettes and a fresh direction

Malaysia’s population of 35 million is relatively low for Asia, yet they absolutely dominate the Indigo Invitational. My point is that, especially on a per capita basis, Malaysia’s denim power deserves close attention. 

Marrow is so new that their collections have yet to be released, but they promise to be a unique fixture in Southeast Asia’s denim space with designs inspired by postmodern streetwear and quiet utility.

They’ve also built their own workshop in Kuala Lumpur’s Semua House with the intention of reviving the area’s traditional garmentmaking industry.

Helmed by London-trained designer Shaofen Seah, Marrow will release modern and roomy garments that wouldn’t be called “heritage” or “classic” in the same way as most raw denim brands, but their core principle is making clothes that move, evolve, and endure—ideas at the heart of any true denimhead enterprise.

At the time of publication, Marrow are still preparing their first releases, so their Instagram is currently the best place to follow the project and keep up with upcoming drops.

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FROM INDONESIA

Oldblue

Heavyweight selvedge and one of Indonesia’s best-known denim exports

If you’ve heard of one Indonesian denim company, it’s probably Oldblue. 

The first Indonesian outfit to sell selvedge over 20 ounces in weight, they’re more likely than the other brands on this list to be found in foreign stores. Another way they’ve strengthened their visibility overseas is by collaborating with Japanese brands like Samurai and retailer Okayama Denim.

It makes sense, then, that they’ve got an unusually wide array of fits and an unusually cool website that does a great job of displaying their diverse range of heritage wear—even though it rarely reflects what you can actually buy. 

The product line is always changing, but they regularly sell heavyweight selvedge woven by Japan’s Kaihara, super slubby denim from Thailand’s Atlantic Mills, and all-Indonesian jeans made with selvedge woven in West Java.

Oldblue also stands out for securing the right to sell White’s Boots in Indonesia and for their range of heritage outerwear that’s rich in fabrics like wabash and duck canvas. 

(Website) (Instagram)

Oldblue’s website is one of the best organised in the region, though the constantly changing product lineup means not everything shown is necessarily available at any given time. They’re also active on Instagram, where new releases and collaborations tend to appear first.

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FROM INDONESIA

NBDN

Batik details, sashiko patches, and constantly evolving fabrics

NBDN is based in West Java’s creative hub of Bandung, which is also home to Indonesia’s famous bootmaking scene.

They tell me their name stands for both “Not Branded’ and “Branded On,” to signify how one can take something “unbranded”—like soil and cotton—and create something that develops value, both as it’s turned into clothing and then as it’s worn and loved. 

Every pair of jeans boasts its own hand-sewn sashiko waist patch, and many of their models are named after mythical or endangered creatures.

Personally, I’m a big fan of when they integrate batik, a method of using wax to dye fabrics that has a powerful history in the region. You’ll sometimes find batik inside their jeans or on the sleeves of their jackets.

The lineup is ever-changing (they’re constantly selling out), but a visit to their headquarters revealed a range of garments that include purple weft selvedge, wabash canvas, and slubby stonewashes.

NBDN is available at Cultizm. Because the lineup changes so frequently and international availability can be limited, NBDN’s Instagram is probably the best place to keep up with new releases, though they also have a website.

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FROM INDONESIA

Blue States

Fast-moving releases and heavyweight selvedge at unusually low prices

Blue States was brought to my attention by famed denim historian and designer Mohsin Sajid, who thinks they sell some of the nicest fabrics in the region.

They stand out as a brand founded by two brothers who belong to Indonesia’s longstanding ethnic Chinese minority, who some affectionately call Chindonesian. 

To the consumer, Blue States might stand out for their phenomenally low prices: their lineup includes 23 oz. selvedge jeans for 70 US dollars.

The brothers have used relationships with selvedge denim mills in both Indonesia and China to create an exceptionally fast and nimble business model, capable of creating and restocking product lines more quickly than many others in the area.

Sometimes, Blue States will also sell other items like military pants and a cool shawl-collar take on the denim jacket—a surprisingly common design choice in the region.

Blue States have both a website and an active Instagram, though, as with many brands in the region, availability changes quickly as fabrics and production runs come and go.

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FROM VIETNAM

Copper Denim

Affordable raw denim, wabash, and military-inspired workwear

Vietnam is home to an enormous amount of denim production, including industry goliath Saitex and a Levi’s production plant in the northern Ninh Binh province. 

Raw selvedge denim doesn’t have a huge foothold in Vietnam, but Copper’s founder, Tu Pham, is intent on spreading its influence.

Sure, there’s no English on his website (you could try Google Translate and pray), but the extremely well-priced Copper Denim is the country’s most dedicated hub of raw denim, and Tu’s solid understanding of the space means they’re usually selling raw denim-adjacent favourites like sateen fatigues and wabash jackets.

If you’re curious to learn more about how mid-century Americana caught on in Vietnam, I visited them a couple of years ago and filmed one of their denim hangs.

Copper’s website is currently only available in Vietnamese, so their Instagram is probably the easiest way for international customers to follow new releases and get a feel for what they’re doing.

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FROM THAILAND

Secret Island

Contemporary fits and experimental fabrics at lower prices

A sister brand (or perhaps sub-brand) of Piger Works, Secret Island is the newest brand on this list, so it’s all the more impressive that they’re making waves in Thailand’s bustling denim scene. 

Wisely launching with a contemporary wide fit in addition to the classic straight and slim ones that are more widespread in the region, Secret Island is innovative and significantly less expensive than Piger Works, releasing funky fabrics like anti-odour denim and perhaps their flagship: a super slubby brown denim called Sand.

Secret Island currently operates through their Instagram, which is where new releases and fabric experiments tend to appear first.

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FROM INDONESIA

Craft Denim

Natural indigo and wildly textured handloomed denim

Of all the cool brands I’ve visited in Southeast Asia, Craft Denim left the strongest impression. They don’t make selvedge denim with pure indigo; they make handloomed denim with natural indigo. 

In fact, Craft only uses natural dyes, almost all of which have long histories of use in Central Java.

Earlier in 2026, they sponsored an enormous mangrove tree planting program in collaboration with a local school and the Indonesian Red Cross Society: mangroves are used to dye fabrics, and they help to protect local agriculture from erosion.

Combine all that with phenomenal textures and other funky takes on traditional favourites—like a Carhartt Detroit-style jacket made of handloomed sashiko—and you’ve got a truly singular company.

Craft Denim are active on Instagram, where they regularly share new fabrics, natural dye experiments, and one-off pieces that can be difficult to find outside the region.

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FROM THAILAND

Simple & Raw

Perhaps my favourite Thai brand, I’m a huge fan of the complex images that often decorate the interior of their jeans, on pocket bags and yokes.

That said, it’s possible that I just like them because of how easy it is to use their (English language!) website: it’s easy to sort by fit (thanks for the ‘vintage’ option!) and by weight (some 25 oz. jeans are currently going for under $200). 

They’re not the cheapest brand in the region, but they’re becoming one of the most talked about thanks to the combination of impressive fits, farang-friendly website, and plenty of other workwear classics like canvas jackets, twill work pants with back cinches, pleated ripstop trousers, and herringbone twill baker pants. 

Simple & Raw have one of the easiest websites in the region to browse internationally, and they’re also active on Instagram, where new fabrics and releases tend to show up first.

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This Denim Boom Is Bigger Than You Think

That’s nine brands from Southeast Asia that I’ve been looking at closely. But this list barely scratches the surface:

Sage Denim (Indonesia), Piger Works (Thailand), Nama (Thailand), Warpweft (Indonesia), Cheese Denim (Indonesia), and Sukajin (Malaysia) all deserve to be talked about, and I didn’t even touch on the one-man brands like Marimandi (Malaysia) and Selvedgework (Thailand).

I hope this overview served its purpose of making you more informed and more excited about this increasingly visible corner of the selvedge denim industry. This scene runs far deeper than a single article can cover, and I suspect we’ll be hearing a lot more about these brands in the years ahead.

The post 9 Southeast Asian Raw Denim Brands You Should Know About  appeared first on Denimhunters.

DENIM and PATCHES sourced this post originally published on this site

Affiliate disclaimer: We work with most brands and retailers featured and earn commission on purchases.

Roundup of Tees Worth Wearing: From Whitesville and Warehouse to Wonder Looper and Weirloom

At some point, people who care about clothes stop chasing statement pieces and start obsessing over the things they wear every single day, like the T-shirt.

There’s this Danish comedy sketch where a guy wished for a white T-shirt, got one, but is deeply frustrated and wants to return it because it’s not exactly “the right white T-shirt.” Still cracks me up—mostly because I’m exactly like that.

Before we get into this week’s T-shirt rabbit hole: quick reminder that the SOSO Brothers giveaway for a pair of custom-made 20 oz. Ghost Double Black jeans ends on Monday. If you haven’t entered yet, now’s your chance—do it here.

When a Basic Stops Being Basic

Spring and summer are T-shirt season. We wear tees all year round, of course, but this is the time of year when they stop being a layer underneath something else and start carrying the whole outfit on their own. And that means all the little details suddenly matter even more.

Brands like Whitesville, Samurai, Wonder Looper, and others are making tees that we genuinely obsess over—not because they’re flashy, but because they become part of our daily uniform. And while they last for years, eventually you need new ones.

Maybe your favourite white tee has gotten one stain too many. Maybe the collar has finally given up. Maybe you just want a different fit, a new colour, or—if you really want to go crazy—a brand you haven’t tried before.

Below are some of the T-shirts I think are worth checking out right now—from affordable Japanese two-packs to heavyweight loopwheel obsessions, and my own take on the everyday tee.

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Wonder Looper’s Suvin Gold Tees Are Back

If you’ve spent any time looking into premium T-shirts lately, you’ve probably come across Wonder Looper.

Their heavyweight Suvin Gold Tsuriami are developed exclusively in collaboration with Redcast Heritage, and they’ve built a loyal following, so new batches disappear fast.

Redcast has just announced a fresh restock in four colours: Ecru, Black, White, and Heather Grey.

What makes these tees so interesting is the combination of dense loopwheel-knit construction and ultra-soft Suvin Gold cotton. They’re knitted slowly in Wakayama on traditional tsuriami machines, which gives the fabric a dense yet breathable feel that’s difficult to replicate on modern high-speed equipment.

Unlike most loopwheeled tees, Wonder Looper also uses side seams to create a more modern and consistent fit, especially across larger sizes. That makes them feel a bit less “vintage tubular tee” and a bit more wearable for people who don’t necessarily want the old-school silhouette.

According to Redcast, this batch also comes with updated measurements compared to previous releases, so it’s worth checking the size chart carefully if you bought one from the first run.

If your summer T-shirt rotation could use something top-shelf, this is one of the more interesting releases out there right now.

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SOSO Brothers 11 oz. Heavyweight Knit Tee

If your idea of the perfect T-shirt leans more “built like a sweatshirt” than “light summer layer,” SOSO Brothers has something worth a look.

Their 11 oz. heavyweight knit tee is made from dense 365 gsm Australian cotton jersey with a structured feel that’s much more substantial than what most brands call a T-shirt these days. It’s rugged, simple, and clearly designed with durability first.

Construction details are straightforward but solid: classic crew neck and a dense single-knit jersey that should soften and develop character nicely with wear.

They’re available in seven colours, and you get offer 50% off every additional tee you add after the first one. The best part is you don’t have to wait, because unlike SOSO’s jeans, shirts, and jackets, the tees are in stock and ready to ship!

For anyone who thinks most modern tees feel too thin, too soft, or too disposable, this one goes in the opposite direction.

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My Own Version of the Everyday Tee

After years of trying different tees, I eventually ended up wanting something slightly different from most of what was out there.

The WL-T from Weirloom is basically my attempt to make the kind of T-shirt I reach for most often: substantial but easy to wear, clean-fitting without being tight, and made a 30-minute drive from where my jeans are produced.

It’s made in Portugal from 220 gsm organic cotton jersey, with a casual fit and a slight taper through the body. No loopwheel construction, no exaggerated vintage fit—just a straightforward everyday tee designed to pair well with jeans and hold its shape over time.

And yes, it’s also available as a two-pack. Because once you find the right T-shirt, one usually isn’t enough.

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From the Archive: The Best Loopwheeled T-Shirts

Several of the tees featured above are loopwheeled, which is part of why they’ve become so desirable among denim and heritage enthusiasts.

Loopwheeled T-shirts are knitted slowly on old circular machines that produce tubular fabric with no side seams. The result is usually a denser, softer tee with better shape retention—and often a higher price tag.

A few years ago, “loopwheel” was still one of those niche terms mostly discussed on forums and Reddit threads. Now, catalysed by The Bear, these heavyweight tubular T-shirts have become a category of their own. I get why, it’s not just hype.

I’ve published a full guide to what I believe are the best loopwheeled T-shirts, including closer looks at Whitesville, Iron Heart, Warehouse, The Flat Head, and more.

I break down the differences in fit, fabric, weight, texture, sizing, and construction, along with why so many denim and heritage enthusiasts end up obsessing over them.

If this week’s issue has pulled you deeper into the T-shirt rabbit hole, this is a good place to continue:

The post Why Denim Guys Obsess Over the Right T-Shirts appeared first on Denimhunters.

DENIM and PATCHES sourced this post originally published on this site

We have all been there; shopping through the mall and scouring all the racks to find the perfect pair of jeans. Sometimes you find the perfect style and fit, but you just need it to be a smidge tighter. Or maybe, you have the perfect pair already but have lost weight so now they just fit a little baggier than they use to. It used to be that getting your pair of jeans to fit you just right was a matter of wishing that they could shrink just a bit. The good news is, that wish is a little more possible than you might think. 

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There are things you can do right in your own home to help shrink your jeans so that they can fit just right. That is where we come in. In today’s article, we are going to take a look at some of the best ways to shrink down your jeans right at home.This way, your jeans can fit you in all the right places and offer you absolute comfort. Let’s get started!

How To Shrink Jeans – Need A Hassle-Free Shrinking Solution?

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We have all gone through rough patches with our wardrobe items and articles.

I personally remember the angst of not wanting to part with some True Religion jeans that my booty just couldn’t regularly fit into any longer after I lost all the weight I had put on after my freshman year of College.

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You see, for me it was the Freshman 50 (instead of 15) during my first year of schooling (and stress-eating). While I was at that heavier weight I had wanted to feel better about myself so I splurged on a nice designer pair of jeans that flattered my new lumps and bumps.

Well, fast forward about a year and a lot of hard work at the gym later and I was back to my healthy normal weight, however my coveted designer jeans gave me a nonexistent saggy looking bottom and chicken legs.

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Had I known back then about the tips that I am about to share with you, I would still to this day be rocking those nice looking True Religions. However, silly me (and boy, am I kicking myself now) I just drove them over to Goodwill and parted with them.

*Sigh*, now – a moment of silence for all the lost designer jeans please.

But you ladies and gents don’t have to suffer and make the same irrevocable fashion mistakes that I did. Not to worry, there is still hope for your baggy, overused, and stretched jeans!

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There Are Numerous Ways To Shrink Jean​​​​s

Alright, you guys have only an hour to tighten your favorite pair of jeans up before heading out on the town. What are you going to do?!

This is crunch time but there is no time for panicking, because without even realizing it you have everything you need to have a complete jean make-over.

Below are our top 7 tops on how to shrink jeans:

1. COOK THOSE EXTRA INCHES OFF

Okay, no you can’t really cook off inches, but you can definitely cook your jeans to make them up to 5x tighter than they were before. All you’re going to need for this one is a big pot, some water and your loosey-goosey particular pants.

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Drop those overused jeans into a boiling pot of water (making sure to fully submerge them) and let those bad boys soak between 20-40 minutes. After the allotted time, get the pants out, wring them out and immediately toss them into the dryer (which must be put on the hottest setting possible).

Disclaimer: If your jeans are not 100% cotton and contain a mix of other materials such as spandex or lycra then I would NOT suggest using this solution as you will likely damage your jeans this way, possibly even making them baggier than they were to begin with. Yikes.

2. TAKE A BATH IN THOSE LOOSE JEANS

Next time you decide to settle in and draw yourself a relaxing hot bath, make sure to wear your jeans into the water. I know this seems weird, but just hear me out on this one.

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If you sit in the tub with your bottom-half completely submerged for half an hour, then get out and wait 10 to let the wet material form to your figure before carefully throwing the garment on the “High” setting in the hot dryer then your jeans will be good as new.

Keep note, this method is especially helpful for those pairs of jeans that are tight in some places and irregularly loose in others. Although you may look silly in the moment, no one will know and no one will care when you strut your stuff in your revamped favorite pair of jeans.

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3. CRANK THE HEAT UP ON THE DRYER

We’ve all accidentally ruined a cute new blouse or pair of shorts by throwing them in the dryer without thinking twice and shrinking them to half their original size. However, this time you’re going to do it on purpose!

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Throwing jeans on high heat in the dryer will help to tighten up all of the cotton fibers within the pants.

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This solution calls for ¾ water to be mixed with ¼ fabric softener into a spray bottle of your choosing.

Spray and treat areas on your jeans that need the most tightening, and then throw them in the good ol’ dryer on high and watch your life be made easier instantly.

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5. IRON THOSE BAGGY BRITCHES

Known for being able to apply intense heat in a matter of seconds, irons can greatly help to tighten any pair of jeans before use. Whether it be a singular spot that needs tightened or the entire set, ironing will help to tighten everything up.

Just be careful to always let this article of clothing cool don before putting them on, as they could burn you right after ironing.

6. DON THAT LONG-UNDERWEAR

Definitely wouldn’t recommend using this tip during the warmer months, as you might quite literally die from heat stroke. However, this solution is great to use during winter as it adds extra layers of warmth for when you are braving the frigid cold outside.

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Adding a layer underneath your jeans will help to provide extra snugness to those baggy old jeans and although this isn’t my top recommended solution, it will still do the trick and work for you.

7. START SEWING AWAY

If worse comes to worse, I would suggest taking those jeans into a seamstress or taking your own nimble hands to it.

If you know how to sew, these jean “remodels” can be completed in almost no time. All you have to do it flip said loose pants inside out, tear out the old inseam and make a new tighter one to ensure a more-snug fit.

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If your pants are still too loose after that then you can also sew around a 7-inch piece of elastic into the inside of the waistband, so that the pants can stay snug and fitting all the way up to your waist.

This is my least favorite solution because I hate to mangle the fabric of your jeans like that. If I can help it, I try to avoid sewing and stitching as much as possible.

Please remember to keep in mind that each of the shrinking methods listed above are great ways to enhance the look, fit, comfortability and extend the overall life expectancy on your good ol’ favorite pair of denims.

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Each solution offers a solid way to shrink your jeans, it is really just up to your personal preference on which option you would like to go with.

Shrink Those Jeans And Strut Your Stuff

Now that you’ve learned how to shrink jeans – these shrinking options should provide a long-term solution to the problem on hand.

However, just be careful to remember that when attempting to shrink jeans be careful not to set your wet jeans on any light colored carpets or fabrics because bleeding and staining could occur and make sure to be careful when pulling on your newly shrunk jeans belt-loops as you don’t want them to rip out when you start tugging!

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Other than that, you should be good to go and set to don these pants and rock those better fitting jeans out and around the town.

We hope these tips have set your mind at ease, as it is easily possible to reuse and recycle your denim for many years to come.

DENIM and PATCHES sourced this post originally published on this site