Best Selvedge Jeans for Men, From $60 to $350+

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A Denim Expert’s Shortlist: The Best of Entry-Level Selvedge Through to Enthusiast Favourites

I’ve been writing about jeans since I started this site in 2011, and this is my take on the “best jeans for men” guide that every menswear publication has these days (GQ and Wirecutter, I’m coming for your lunch money).

Unlike all the others, this guide is only about selvedge jeans: the kind that start stiff and dark blue, then end up looking uniquely yours based on how you’ve worn and washed them (if you wash them).

I’ve handpicked 17 selvedge jeans—plus a bunch of alternatives—across three price tiers. They’re all indigo denim, available in raw or one-washed. I’ve generally favoured regular and straight fits as the baseline, but all these brands offer slimmer or looser alternatives if that’s what you’re after.

To make things easier for you, every entry includes a note on sizing, because getting that wrong can be an expensive mistake. And when you see ⚠️, it’s a heads-up on availability. Let’s go!

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What’s Selvedge, Raw, and One-Washed?

Selvedge denim is woven on shuttle looms, which create a self-finished edge—the selvedge—instead of the cut edge you get on most jeans.

Raw means the jeans haven’t been washed after they were made. One-washed means they’ve been washed once, mainly to take out much of the initial shrinkage.

You can learn much more about all of this in my Denim Encyclopedia.

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Best Selvedge Jeans Up to $150

At $150 or less, the economics of selvedge jeans are … challenging. The denim alone is easily $25 or more per pair. Everything else has to fit into what’s left: cutting, sewing, hardware, margins, and getting the jeans to you.

To make the maths work at this price, brands either sell directly to you—sometimes through their own retail network—or minimise costs elsewhere in the value chain. (I explain why selvedge jeans cost more at the end of this guide.)

Uniqlo Selvedge Jeans ($59.90)

At $59.90, Uniqlo is the cheapest way into selvedge jeans—and probably the most controversial. Japanese denim at that price is almost too good to be true; many of the other jeans in this guide cost more than that just to make.

How? Uniqlo’s scale and a vertical retail model where they sell directly to you—no middlemen, no wholesale margin. The flip side is that Uniqlo’s volume puts real pressure on the entire ecosystem of Japanese selvedge production.

• Look for the 100% cotton versions—avoid those with stretch
• Maybe not the most exciting canvas for a long-term fade project
• Order your normal size

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Gustin 1968 Cone Mills ($99)

The case for Gustin starts with the price: $99 for American-made selvedge jeans. That’s not a typo. Gustin jeans are cut and sewn in California, and the 1968 is made from 13.5 oz. Cone Mills selvedge—the same mill that supplied Levi’s for decades before closing in 2017.

Gustin gets to that price through crowdfunding: you order during a campaign window, they make only what’s been funded, and you wait around 10–14 weeks for delivery. In-stock pairs are available at $149. I haven’t worn these myself, but I have done a full review—read that for my hands-on verdict.

• Four fits available, from slim to classic straight—the Straight is the most forgiving starting point
• Gustin uses measured sizing, not vanity sizing—most buyers need to size up 1–2 from what they normally wear. Read the size chart carefully.
• ⚠️ Pre-order model: allow 10–14 weeks for campaign orders

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Unbranded UB301 ($108)

No logo, no advertising, almost nothing spent on the stuff that surrounds a jean rather than the jean itself. That’s the whole Unbranded proposition: put the money into 14.5 oz. Japanese selvedge and solid construction, then sell the result for $99. The UB301 is the slim-straight version, with a medium rise, button fly, hidden rivets, chain-stitched hems, and blue selvedge ID.

They’re made in Macau, which is a big part of how that price works with a traditional wholesale model. The denim is dense, tightly woven, and famously slow to give up its indigo. If you want dramatic fades quickly, look elsewhere. If you want a straightforward pair you can beat on for years, that slow burn is part of the appeal.

• Sizing runs true to actual waist measurements—a tagged 32 measures 32″ in the waist, so check the chart rather than relying on your usual tag size
• Slow fader—expect to put serious wear into them before the contrast develops
• Also available in 21 oz. as the UB321 if you want to start heavier

Unbranded is available at: Cultizm (EU) and Blue Beach Denim (TW)

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Brave Star True Straight (from $128)

Cut and sewn in their own factory in downtown Los Angeles, from Japanese selvedge denim—with occasional drops of Cone Mills deadstock when available. Brave Star sells direct to you: no retailers, no wholesale margin.

The fabric rotates between runs—different weights, weaves, occasional deadstock drops. That rotation is part of the point: Brave Star is for someone who wants to get into the more obsessive side of selvedge without jumping into $250+ territory for American-made jeans.

• Direct-to-consumer only—no retailers, which is how American-made selvedge jeans stay in the $120–$150 range
• Fades come quickly, especially on left-hand twill fabrics like the Gauntlet
• Sizing runs close to tagged size—order your normal size

Want the full picture on Brave Star? My buying guide covers all the fabrics, fits, and what to expect from the break-in.

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Levi’s 501 Original Selvedge ($150)

The most recognisable jean in the world, now in genuine shuttle-loomed selvedge. At $150, the 501 Original Selvedge is the closest the mainline gets to the jean that everything else in this guide is descended from. Same straight-leg silhouette, same button fly, same basic blueprint that has defined jeans since the nineteenth century.

This is still a modern mainline 501, not a vintage reproduction. The selvedge denim comes from Japan, while the jeans are cut and sewn in China—which is a big part of how Levi’s can offer them at $150. You can get them raw as Shrink-to-Fit and break them in from scratch, or one-washed if you want the initial shrinkage taken care of before you start.

• Raw Shrink-to-Fit: size up two in the waist—but check the measurements before ordering
• One-washed: buy your normal size
• The 501 Original is the classic straight fit; other selvedge cuts are available if you want something different

Heads up: Levi’s also makes Blue Tab in Japan with a more contemporary feel, while LVC is the line to look at if you want the full vintage-reproduction treatment. Look for Levi’s Premium when identifying the mainline version.

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Best Selvedge Jeans Up to $250

Between $151 and $250, the economics start to loosen up. There’s more room for better fabrics, higher-cost production, and specialist retailers who curate what they stock, give useful buying advice, and stand behind it.

Naked & Famous Weird Guy Selvedge ($156)

Montreal brand, made in Canada. N&F makes experimentation approachable—unusual weights, dyes, blends, and limited runs without turning the whole thing into an insider exercise. The Weird Guy is the fit you’ll find across much of that range: medium rise, regular taper, clean lines.

The 13 oz. Indigo Selvedge is almost deliberately restrained by N&F standards. Dense, slow to fade, 100% cotton. The only thing that really shows off is the pinup-girl leather patch. That makes it the easiest introduction to what Naked & Famous does.

• Fabric range rotates constantly—the 13 oz. Indigo Selvedge is the core reference point
• The MIJ (Made in Japan) line is a different product at a significantly higher price—don’t confuse the two
• Order your normal size—but always a good idea to check the size chart first

Naked & Famous is available at: Cultizm (DE), Blue Beach Denim (TW), and DeeCee Style (CH).

Unbranded is N&F’s no-frills alternative—same design philosophy, lower price, different country of manufacture.

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Benzak B-02 (from $186)

Lennaert Nijgh founded Benzak in Amsterdam in 2013 with jeans made in Japan. He’s since built a European-made line around the same design language and standards—giving Benzak a foot in both worlds without making either feel like the cheaper or lesser option. When I talk to mills and makers in this industry, the name comes up.

The B-02 is the regular fit: high rise, classic straight leg, vintage-inspired without going costume. The kind of cut that works for most builds and doesn’t ask you to commit to a look.

• Two lines, two price points—same DNA, different fabrics and production
• Every pair has a hidden sixth pocket—a Benzak signature across both lines
• Sizing conventional—order your normal size

Benzak is available at: Benzak’s own site (NL), Division Road (US), Cultizm (DE), and Blue Beach Denim (TW).

If you want to go deeper on fabrics and fits, my Benzak buying guide has everything.

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Nudie Gritty Jackson Selvedge (from $196)

My first selvedge jeans were a pair of Nudies—the Average Joe in the original Kaihara denim. Nudie has been a gateway into raw denim for a lot of people, and they’ve earned that position.

The Gritty Jackson is their straight selvedge fit: regular cut, mid-rise, zip fly. Fabrics rotate between Japanese and European selvedge, but the bigger reason to buy Nudie is what happens afterwards—their Repair Shops will fix worn jeans for free, for life, and the whole system is built around keeping them in use rather than replacing them.

• Zip fly—unusual for this guide, worth knowing before you buy
• All selvedge fabrics are organic cotton
• Order your normal size

Nudie is available at Cultizm (DE), Brooklyn Clothing Co. (CA), and Blue Beach Denim (TW).

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Warehouse 1001XX (from $208)

The benchmark for vintage Japanese reproduction, and the pair I’ve worn longest at this price point—about six months in a pair of 1001XXs taught me more about how Banner Denim behaves than anything I’d written about it.

Banner Denim is 13.5 oz., developed after studying 1930s Levi’s banner cloth—woven on vintage Toyoda G3 looms. Fades gently and evenly. Regular fit, slight taper, high rise, button fly. Unsanforized—it will shrink.

• Unsanforized: size up significantly—check the Cultizm size chart and shrinkage estimates before ordering
• ⚠️ Sells out regularly—worth checking stock across retailers and picking up when available
• Iron buttons and copper rivets that rust and dull with wear—part of the vintage accuracy, and unlike anything else on this list

The 1001XX is sold at Cultizm (DE), Hinoya (JP), and Lost & Found (CA).

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TCB 60s Regular Straight ($238)

TCB is for the person who wants vintage reproduction without turning jeans into collectibles. The Kojima-based brand goes deep on 1960s Levi’s 501 details—San Joaquin Valley cotton, unsanforized selvedge, period-correct stitching—but the jeans are made to be worn hard, not preserved.

The paper patch proves it. Handmade, it gradually wears away as the denim fades, revealing the dark indigo underneath. That’s not a decorative detail—it’s a philosophy built into the garment.

• Unsanforized but one-washed—most shrinkage has already been taken out; check the measurements and order accordingly
• Regular fit with a gentle taper—the 50s gives you more room through the thigh
• TCB offers several variations on the 50s and 60s patterns—roomier and slimmer options are both available

TCB is available at: Redcast Heritage (ES), Cultizm (DE), and Franklin & Poe (US)

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Best Selvedge Jeans $250+

At $250 and above, the options open up considerably—this is the largest tier in the guide, and also the most subjective. The brands here don’t have to compromise on fabric, construction, or provenance.

But with so many serious options at this level, the right choice depends more on what you’re drawn to than on any objective ranking. That makes it worth reading the entries carefully—and the ‘also worth considering’ list is longer here for good reason.

SOSOBROTHERS (from $259)

Since a San Francisco tailor first hammered copper rivets into work trousers in 1873, jeans have followed a remarkably consistent set of rules. That’s what we’ve come to expect. But off the rack means choosing from what exists. If your proportions mean nothing ever quite fits the way you want, that’s just how it is.

SOSOBROTHERS makes real jeans—the pockets, the seams, the hardware, all exactly as they should be. The difference is that they’ll make them to your exact measurements. Choose your fit, place your order, and they build it in Bangkok.

• Best for hard-to-fit proportions—your measurements determine the finished jeans
• ⚠️ Made-to-order: allow 5–7 weeks from order to delivery
• No returns—size carefully

The fabric catalogue and customisation options can have a learning curve—my buying guide to the brand is the best place to start.

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KATO Mammoth Selvedge ($268)

Cut and sewn in Los Angeles, KATO has been challenging raw denim orthodoxy for years. The Mammoth is 17.5 oz. 4-way stretch selvedge—96% cotton, 4% elastane, stretch built into both warp and weft. Most stretch denims only go one way.

Stretch selvedge is controversial in this world. KATO’s argument is that the fades don’t lie—one Indigo Invitational competitor wore a pair and came back with high-contrast fades, sharp honeycombs, and proved stretch doesn’t stop selvedge from fading properly. Are you tough enough to wear stretch denim?

• 4-way stretch—moves in every direction, not just side to side
• Zip fly—worth knowing before you order
• Order your normal size—KATO recommends sizing up, but real-world reviews suggest true to size works for most

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Tellason Ankara ($275)

Tellason has been making jeans in San Francisco since 2008—same city, same founders, same core range. In a world of constant novelty, that kind of continuity is rarer than it sounds. The Ankara is the straight-leg fit: room through the seat and thighs, straight to the hem. All fabrics come from Kaihara in Japan; everything is cut and sewn in San Francisco.

The 16.5 oz. is the one with a reputation—serious fade potential, well-documented results, no ordeal to get there. The 12.5 oz. is there if you want an easier wear; the 14.75 oz. splits the difference. But the 16.5 oz. is why Tellason is on this list.

• Complimentary chain-stitch hemming on any Tellason jeans, wherever you bought them—a genuine differentiator
• Sizing runs about 1″ larger than tagged—a size 32 measures around 33″ in the waist
• For a slimmer cut, the John Graham Mellor and Ladbroke Grove are worth a look

Read our Tellason jeans guide for more.

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Fullcount 1101 ($290)

One of the original Osaka Five brands, founded in 1992 by Mikiharu Tsujita, Fullcount helped define what Japanese vintage-reproduction denim looks like. The brand has spent three decades studying vintage American jeans obsessively—and translating that study into jeans that are unusually concerned with how good they actually feel to wear.

The 13.7 oz. denim in the 1101 is unsanforized, loosely woven from Zimbabwean long-staple cotton—a choice Fullcount has made for decades because it produces a softer hand, more natural drape, and fades that build gradually. Serious vintage credentials, but without the punishment.

• Unsanforized: the raw 1101 shrinks 8–10% after first wash—size up significantly, or choose the one-washed 1101W and order your normal size
• Zimbabwe cotton is central to Fullcount’s identity—long fibres, soft hand, gradual fades
• If you want something slimmer, Fullcount also make tapered cuts

Buy Fullcount at Redcast Heritage (ES), Blue in Green (US), Cultizm (DE), Clutch Café (UK)

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ONI Secret Denim ($295)

Masao Oishi was part of the first generation that built Japan’s denim industry, including an early stint at Levi’s Japan in the 1970s. When he saw an ultra-low-tension prototype woven on a Toyoda G3 loom, it looked like a demon to him. He named the brand after it.

Secret Denim began as an attempt to recreate the character of early Cone Mills denim imported into Japan. Oishi kept pushing it with unusual yarns, coloured wefts, and increasingly irregular weaving until it became unmistakably ONI.

The result is 20 oz. slubby denim that looks unhinged but wears far softer and easier than it has any right to.

• 20 oz. but softens faster than most brands’ 14 oz.—the ultra-low-tension weave is why
• Unsanforized—size up; ask Redcast Heritage for guidance before ordering
• ONI makes multiple fits and versions of the Secret Denim—talk to the retailer before committing

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Samurai S510XX ($321)

Founded in Osaka in 1997, Samurai Jeans built its identity around deliberate intensity. The S710XX uses 19 oz. Kiwami denim—Kiwami means pinnacle in Japanese—woven from thick, slubby yarns into a rugged fabric that feels surprisingly soft on the inside.

Sandpaper at first, butter later. Kiwami is also known for fading quickly and dramatically, which makes the break-in feel like part of the reward rather than something to endure.

• One-washed unsanforized: most shrinkage has already been taken out—check the measurements carefully before ordering
• Regular straight with a hint of taper—if you want more room, look at Samurai’s wider fits
• Iron buttons, custom rivets, and signature selvedge details make the whole jean feel deliberately Samurai

Oni is sold at: Redcast Heritage (ES), Cultizm (DE), Franklin & Poe (US), Blue in Green (US), and Hinoya (JP)

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Iron Heart 634S ($385)

No other brand is as synonymous with heavyweight denim, and the 634S is where it all began. Made from Iron Heart’s 21 oz. signature selvedge—almost double the weight of mall jeans denim—it sounds like armour. It’s not. The weft is double-spun, which gives it a bit of flex, and the jeans are one-washed and surprisingly soft from first wear.

The following Iron Heart has built is unlike any other brand here—because the brand doesn’t stop at jeans. The jackets, the flannels, the t-shirts: everything is made to the same overengineered standard. Once you understand why, wearing anything else starts to feel like a step down.

• Aim for a close fit, not a tight one—especially in 21 oz., the denim will relax and mould to your body with wear, which is how you get a perfect fit
• The 634S also comes in 14 oz. for an easier entry, and 25 oz. for those who want to go all the way
• ⚠️ Restocks sell out quickly—sign up to be notified if your size isn’t currently available

If you want to know more about Iron Heart before committing, my buying guide goes deep on weights, fits, and what to expect.

If none of the above did it for you—or you’re looking for a complete map of the selvedge landscape—my best raw denim brands guide is where to go next. For everything Japanese, the Japanese denim brands guide goes deeper still.

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Why Selvedge Jeans Cost More

The price of jeans mainly comes down to two things: how they’re made and how they reach you—plus a few other factors.

Selvedge denim is woven on shuttle looms that run slower and produce less fabric than modern alternatives. That fabric then has to be cut and sewn, with the hardware, stitching, patch, and other details added along the way.

Getting those jeans from the production floor to your door is the second big cost driver. Every step in the supply chain takes a margin. A brand selling directly to you can therefore charge considerably less than one selling through distributors and retailers—even when the jeans themselves cost roughly the same to make.

Collection discipline matters too. Brands that make the same core models year after year can spread development and sampling costs over much longer runs. Constant new collections cost more.

Marketing, retail, customer service, repairs, returns, and everything else surrounding the product also have to be paid for somewhere. That’s why two pairs made from similarly expensive denim can end up with very different price tags.

I’ve seen this from both sides. I’ve spent fifteen years writing about jeans, visiting factories, talking to mills and makers, and working inside the industry. Then, in 2025, I launched Weirloom—and the theory became very real.

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DENIM and PATCHES sourced this post originally published on this site