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TENCEL™ Lyocell – HV100 Opens Up New Applications in Denim

October 8, 2025 by DENIMandPATCHES

Lenzing Group is looking to bring TENCEL™ Lyocell into warp weaves with the introduction of TENCEL™ Lyocell – HV100.

DENIM and PATCHES sourced this post originally published on this site

Filed Under: Blog

The Best and Toughest Heavyweight Selvedge Jeans

October 8, 2025 by DENIMandPATCHES

We hand-pick all products. When you buy something, we may earn a commission.

Because Weight Matters: Learn What Heavyweight Denim Is All About … and Which Pair to Get?

When I got into denim 20 years ago, selvedge was the hot new thing. Today, it’s heavyweight that defines the scene.

Going heavy with your denim is a rite of passage. Nothing says commitment like selvedge so thick it feels like armour. Moving up in weight is how denimheads prove something—to themselves and to the culture.

Iron Heart, brand profile, Denimhunters, 21 oz., Japanese denim, selvedge denim, raw denim
My first heavyweight jeans, when they were still breaking in

The first time I handled heavyweight denim, I knew this was something different. I didn’t take the plunge myself until a pair of Iron Heart 634S came along years later. Once I did, I understood the appeal.

TL;DR – Quick Summary (of a Very Heavy Guide)

Whether you’re new to heavyweight denim or looking for your next pair, this guide does the heavy lifting for you. I’ll explain what it is, why people chase it, and which brands make the best.

Top Picks: Start with These

Want to cut to the chase? Here are my recommendations:

  • First heavy denim? Iron Heart’s 21 oz. or Samurai’s 19 oz. Kiwami.
  • Want something custom? SOSO’s 20 oz. Ghost Indigo.
  • Looking for the best value? Brave Star’s 21.5 oz. Gauntlet.
  • Ready for serious pain? The Strike Gold 24.8 oz. Extra Hard.

Heavy Denim Explained

Before we get to the best brands that make it, we need to define what heavyweight denim actually is.

The weight of denim is measured in ounces per square yard. By my definition, anything from 16 oz. up counts as heavyweight—but some double that number.

Throughout the 20th century, 13–14 oz. denim was considered heavy (enough). These days, that’s middle-of-the-road at best. I launched my own brand with a 14.25 oz. selvedge denim, and almost immediately, people were asking: “When are you making something heavier?”

Heavyweight The Strike Gold denim in the making (image via Redcast Heritage)

So how do mills produce denim this heavy? Not easily, that’s for sure. Technically speaking, it comes down to yarn count and weave density. Thicker cotton yarns weigh more, and the tighter they’re packed on the loom, the denser and heavier the fabric. 

Samurai’s 21 oz. exemplifies the “big yarn” approach, while Iron Heart’s 21 oz. selvedge is built with a double-twisted weft that packs more cotton without making it unwearably stiff. But weight alone doesn’t tell the full story. Heavy denim can be sanforized (pre-shrunk) or unsanforized, smooth or slubby, clean or hairy.

If you’ve got more question, I’m answering 10 of the most commonly asked ones further below in the guide. But if you’re ready to take the plunge, the next step is choosing where to start.


THE PIONEERS OF HEAVYWEIGHT DENIM

Before heavy selvedge became a badge of honour, these brands defined it. They didn’t just make heavier fabrics—they built the culture around them.

Iron Heart: The Benchmark

If I say “heavy”, you say … “Iron Heart”. Because no other brand is as synonymous with heavyweight denim. Founded by Shinichi Haraki to make jeans tough enough for bikers, Iron Heart has been building its reputation on heavy selvedge since 2002.

The benchmark is the 21 oz. signature selvedge. Thanks to the double-twisted weft yarns and a looser weave, it’s more wearable than the number suggests—stubborn at first, but quick to soften into long-haul comfort and slow, steady fades.

Iron Heart’s 21 oz. 634S jeans, new and faded

Then there’s the 25 oz. XHS (Extra Heavy Selvedge), which has become legendary in its own right. Originally introduced in 2011 for the 25th anniversary of Zurich’s VMC, it pushed the limits of what mills and sewing machines could handle.

I’ve worn both, and each shows a different side of Iron Heart’s philosophy: overengineered jeans that balance punishment with reward. If you want to understand why heavyweight denim became what it is today, this is where you start.

SHOP IRON HEART JEANS HERE

Iron Heart is available at: Division Road (US), Franklin & Poe (US), Brooklyn Clothing (CA), Iron Provisions (US), and of course at Iron Heart International.

Want the full breakdown of Iron Heart’s fits and fabrics? Check out my complete guide to the brand’s jeans here.


Samurai Jeans: The Warriors of Heavy Denim

A true samurai perfects his art through patience and precision. Every motion is deliberate, every stroke earned through repetition. Osaka’s Samurai Jeans embody that same devotion to craft—denim made not for ease, but for mastery.

Founded in 1997 by Toru Nogami, the brand built its name on unsanforized heavyweights that test your will. The 19 oz. Kiwami might have put Samurai on the map, but it’s the 21 oz. selvedge that made the brand legendary—a fabric that defines the brand’s identity and, possibly, the entire heavyweight movement.

The 19 oz. Kiwami selvedge
25 oz. Samurai’s that won Y2 of the Indigo Invitational

All Samurai denim is unsanforized, but you can buy them one-washed and shrunken down. Whatever you get, expect a dry, rigid hand and a vertical texture that slowly yields.

Chris Clark, who’s worn both the 19 oz. and the mid-20s 710 cuts, calls them “sandpaper at first, butter later.” His words sum up the Samurai ethos perfectly: patience, practice, and transformation.

SHOP HEAVY SAMURAI JEANS HERE

You can buy Samurai from these retailers: Franklin & Poe (US), Brooklyn Clothing (CA), Blue in Green (US), and Redcast Heritage (ES).


Naked & Famous: The Denim Experimenters

If Iron Heart are the engineers and Samurai the purists, Naked & Famous are the mad scientists of the denim world.

Founded in Montréal in 2008 by Brandon Svarc, the brand built its reputation on doing what no one else dares—turning Japanese selvedge into a playground for experimentation.

The first Naked & Famous Elephant jeans, faded top by Redditor lizardwatches

Everything is cut, sewn, and finished in Canada, using only Japanese denim. By working closely with the most innovative mills in Okayama, Naked & Famous tries things few others would even consider—from glow-in-the-dark and scratch-and-sniff jeans to coffee-dyed and thermochromic denims that change colour with heat.

An army of self-standing 40 oz. jeans
Everything’s extra thick, including the flasher (Image from Long John)
Equally brilliant and ridiculous, 40 oz. denim is newsworthy, no doubt

The heavyweight Elephant series has become a benchmark in its own right. Each version is a limited-run experiment with new yarns, weaves, and weights—ranging from the early 19 oz. and 22 oz. pairs.

Add to that the infamous 32 oz. (out of production since 2016), and most recently, a 40 oz. denim that’s almost unwearable but undeniably impressive.

SHOP NAKED & FAMOUS JEANS

Naked & Famous is sold at: Blue Beach Denim (TW) and Cultizm (DE)

Heavyweight on a Budget

The Unbranded Brand is Naked & Famous’ stripped-down sibling. Made in Asia from simpler fabrics and without any flashy details, the raw, unwashed authenticity is intact.

The 21 oz. Unbranded jeans retail for $150, making them the ultimate entry point for anyone curious about heavyweight denim.


WESTERN HEAVYWEIGHT SPECIALISTS

These brands bring their own approach to heavyweight denim. Different ideas, same dedication to making great jeans.

SOSO: Heavyweight Your Way

Born in Sweden and built in Thailand, SOSO has made a name for itself by giving denimheads the power to shape their own jeans. Every pair is made to order in the brand’s own factory, where craftsmanship meets experimentation.

Heavy denim has become the brand’s signature. From the smooth, wearable 20 oz. Ghost to the punishing 33 oz. “Breaker of Legs”, SOSO’s lineup shows just how far raw denim can go. Most fabrics come from Japan’s specialist mills, while others are developed in-house—dense, fade-hungry, and made to last.

Longtime SOSO wearer Tobias Östling calls breaking in the heavyweights “a state of mind.” After years in both the 20 oz. and 33 oz. jeans, he says the comfort always comes—slowly, then all at once.

SHOP HEAVY SOSO JEANS HERE

Want the full rundown? Read my complete SOSO buying guide.


Brave Star: The People’s Heavyweight

Not all heavyweight denim has to break the bank. Brave Star proves that American-made jeans can still pack a punch at a price that makes sense.

Founded by Mik Serfontaine in Los Angeles in 2005, the brand rose from the ashes of the 2008 crash with a simple mission: make jeans in its own downtown LA factory and sell them directly to customers—no middlemen, no retail markup.

The 21.5 oz. Gauntlet

That model has only gotten sharper over time. Brave Star now produces in limited, demand-based pre-order runs that often sell out in a few hours. The 21.5 oz. Gauntlet and 25 oz. Sumo IV show what the brand does best: bold, heavyweight jeans that fade fast, soften quickly, and deliver serious value for money.

If you want to experience heavyweight denim the American way—built local, priced fair, and driven by demand—Brave Star is the one to check out.

SHOP BRAVE STAR JEANS HERE

If you’re curious how Brave Star does it—and which pairs stand out most—I’ve broken it all down in my complete Brave Star guide.


KATO: The Stretch Revolution

Heritage meets comfort—that’s the KATO way. Founded in Los Angeles by Nick Noguchi, the brand reimagines heritage style for modern life, proving that selvedge denim doesn’t have to hurt to look good.

Every pair is cut and sewn in KATO’s LA factory under Noguchi’s eye, but the brand’s claim to fame is its 4-Way Stretch Selvedge. Yes, you read that right—stretch in heavyweight raw denim, and both and weft and warp (most stretch denim only has it in the weft). 

Purists once scoffed, but the 17.5 oz. Mammoth Selvedge turned skeptics into believers: dense, durable, and fade-ready, yet flexible from day one. Proof that innovation can coexist with authenticity.

BUY KATO JEANS HERE

Curious how the Mammoth Selvedge performs? Read our review here.


JAPANESE HEAVYWEIGHT SPECIALISTS

If you picture the heavyweight pioneers as the festival headliners—with hits everyone knows the chorus of—then these Japanese specialist brands are the underground acts with cult followings. They’re represent the experimental side of heavyweight denim: sometimes mystic, always uncompromising, and deeply authentic.

Oni Denim: The Secret’s in the Slubs

Founded by Masao Oishi, Oni built its cult following on fabrics that feel alive: wildly irregular, ultra-low-tension, and an unmistakable “hairy” texture. Oishi-san himself, a denim veteran with more than six decades of experience, is the son of the man who helped bring American denim to Japan in the 1960s.

Patrick Gessner Secret Denim Front, Oni Secret Denim 20th Anniversary Moca Weft
Image from Patrick Gessner
The 20 oz. Secret denim, new vs. worn for a year

At the centre of it all is the Secret Denim, a 20 oz. slubby blend of three cotton types, rope-dyed with Oishi-san’s closely guarded indigo recipe. The name isn’t just marketing. Few outside his circle know exactly how it’s made, and even fewer can reproduce it. The result is denim that softens quickly, fades slowly, and reveals deep, misty blues as the ecru weft breaks through.

The man is as much a mystery as the denim itself and seldom speaks publicly about his work—but we got a rare glimpse into his process through Redcast Heritage as proxy in this review. And perhaps that’s the point: every Oni fabric carries a secret, woven into its slub and indigo.

SHOP ONI JEANS HERE

Pure Blue Japan: The Art of Subtle Texture

Ken-ichi Iwaya founded Pure Blue Japan in 1997 with a simple goal: to make denim with soul. Soft-spoken and endlessly kind, Iwaya-san builds jeans much like his personality—humble, meticulous, and quietly confident. His jeans prove that character doesn’t need to shout.

Faizal Ismail destroyed this pair of 18 oz. PBJs in the Indigo Invitational

PBJ’s hallmark is texture, but not for the sake of texture. The brand’s low-tension weaves and irregular yarns create denim that feels organic—hairy, uneven, and deeply tactile—yet somehow refined. It’s rugged craft distilled into elegance, where every imperfection feels intentional.

The heavier denims in the 16–18 oz. range show that balance best: dense but breathable, vivid yet understated. Whether it’s the slubby XX series or the natural-indigo Aizome runs, every fabric carries PBJ’s calm precision.

Shop Pure Blue Japan here

You can buy Pure Blue Japan at: Redcast Heritage (ES), Hinoya (JP), Brooklyn Clothing (CA), Blue in Green (US)


The Strike Gold: The Final Challenge

You don’t start your heavyweight journey with Strike Gold!

This is the ten-meter diving platform of denim—the one that looks fine from the ground until you’re standing up there, toes over the edge, realising there’s no easy way down.

The brand is family-run from Kojima and it’s built on one obsession: tension. Every fabric fights you at first—stiff, unyielding, and dense enough to snap needles in production.

The 24.8 oz. Extra Hard denim is notorious for a reason: punishing at the start, but once it yields, it rewards you with fades that look earned, not given.

Strike Gold’s Extra Hard denim starts extra dark
Bob Hamzik’s 9904 Strike Golds after a year of wear

The 17 oz. version? That’s the three-meter platform—still a serious jump, but one you’ll survive. The denim carries the same DNA—tight weaves, raw texture, and unpredictable fades, just a little less brutal on impact.

I haven’t tried Strike Gold myself yet, but those who have describe it like a leap they’ll never forget: terrifying at first, but pure satisfaction once you come up for air and see the fades.

SHOP THE STRIKE GOLD JEANS HERE

More Great Heavyweight Denims

The brands below don’t live in the heavyweight lane full-time, but they know how to handle it. These are just a few of the (many) other great heavyweight denims out there—worth both the price and the pain.

Benzak’s 18 oz. Heavyweight Selvedge

Woven by Collect in Kojima, this 18 oz. dark indigo selvedge combines deep, fixed indigo tones with a subtly uneven texture.

The low-tension weave adds quiet character without bulk, and the dense construction gives it that crisp, structured feel Benzak does so well.

The Flat Head’s 18 oz. Doshaburi Selvedge

A storm of vertical slub defines The Flat Head’s “Doshaburi” selvedge (that’s Japanese for “torrential downpour”).

Rope-dyed indigo yarns and a dense weave give it a structured hand that softens with wear, revealing striking, rain-like fades with the deep blues.

Indigofera’s Shiroyama 18 oz. Selvedge

The heavyweight selvedge from Indigofera blends American cotton with Japanese precision, producing a dense, uneven fabric with real vintage grit. The heavy weft adds texture and weight, while a rinse brings out its soft, hairy character.

Tellason’s 16.5 oz. Selvedge

Reengineered with Kaihara after Cone Mills’ closure, Tellason’s heavyweight is a dense, dry denim with a crisp hand and dramatic fade potential—showing deep contrasts as it wears in. Available across all core fits, it’s rugged and dependable.

Momotaro: 15.7 oz. Selvedge

Momotaro’s flagship selvedge sits just shy of heavyweight, yet few fabrics carry more pedigree. The weave is crisp but pliable, the fades refined rather than brash—a benchmark middleweight that shows just how far mastery can go without sheer weight.


10 FAQs About Heavyweight Denim, Answered

I’ve covered the big picture—what heavyweight denim is, who makes the best, and why it matters. If you still have questions before taking the plunge, don’t worry, you’re not alone. Here are my answers to the most commonly asked heavy denim questions.

FAQ #1: What exactly is “heavyweight denim”?

Denim weight is measured in ounces per square yard (oz.). Anything above 16 oz. falls into the heavyweight category. 

To give you an idea, most mass-market jeans today are in the 10–12 oz. range. That’s light compared to the fabrics used by selvedge specialists, where 14–15 oz. or more is common.

FAQ #2: Why does the weight of denim matter so much?

Two big reasons: durability and fades. 

Heavier denim is denser and usually lasts longer. I’ve worn 25 oz. jeans for nearly two years before the crotch finally blew out; much longer than it would have with lighter denim.

And then there’s fading. Thicker denim (generally) holds creases better, which translates into higher-contrast fades. The stiffness matters as much as the weight. Some heavy denim is surprisingly soft, while compact midweights can feel like armour and fade just as dramatically.

FAQ #3: Where’s the cutoff point for heavyweight denim?

By my definition, heavyweight starts at 16 oz.—but in practice, some 16 oz. denims don’t feel heavy at all.

If you want that true heavyweight feel, look for 18 oz. and up. Remember, it’s not just about the number—yarn size and weave density also change how a fabric wears (that’s just a bit harder to find information about—but ask for it).

FAQ #4: How long does it take to break in heavyweight jeans?

It depends on the denim, but a few weeks of wear is normal before they start to feel comfortable. Super heavy stuff can feel brutal at first. 

My advice: always give them a soak before wearing (see how here). It sets creases and removes the starch, which softens the fabric without much indigo loss. Once broken in, heavyweight denim can be surprisingly comfortable.

FAQ #5: Do heavyweight jeans fade faster?

Not necessarily. Some heavyweights fade quickly and sharply, others more slowly and subtly. “Normal” weight denim can do both as well. 

Fading speed has more to do with yarn construction and dye penetration than sheer weight. What heavy denim does almost always deliver is more dramatic contrast once the creases start forming.

You can learn more about spinning, dyeing and how denim is made in my Denim Encyclopedia.

FAQ #6: How should you care for heavyweight denim?

Treat it like any raw denim: wear it hard, wash when needed, repair early. Heavy denim is tougher, but it’s still denim.

Soak before first wear, then wash gently when necessary (inside out, hang dry). Don’t ignore repairs—heavy or not, crotches and knees will eventually give out if you do.

FAQ #7: Can you wear heavy denim in summer or hot climates?

Yes, but it’s not for everyone.

Lots of faders in Southeast Asia wear 20+ oz. jeans year-round in heat and humidity. Personally, I prefer lighter weights in hot weather (sometimes I even wear shorts; I know, a shocking image). 

If you do go heavy, consider a looser fit for more airflow. Some fabrics, like Iron Heart’s 21 oz., are surprisingly breathable. Others, like ultra-dense 25 oz., can be suffocating.

FAQ #8: How should you size heavyweight denim?

First, study the size chart, and check if the jeans are pre-shrunk. Unwashed unsanforized denim shrinks up to 10%. Even sanforized heavyweights shrink a bit on the first wash. 

My rule: never size too small. A too-tight fit in 20+ oz. denim is not only uncomfortable—it’ll wear out faster in stress points.

FAQ #9: Does heavyweight denim always last longer?

Generally, yes. But how they fit and what you do in them matter just as much. 

Thicker yarns and denser fabrics resist wear better. But I’ve blown out 25 oz. jeans in just 6 months because they were too tight and unsoaked (I didn’t follow my own advice).

FAQ #10: What are the trade-offs of heavyweight denim?

Comfort and cost. Heavy jeans are harder to wear in, hotter in warm climates, and more expensive to produce.

Not many mills make denim this heavy, and production of selvedge denim is slow. But the payoff is durability (generally speaking), dramatic fades (in general as well), and your satisfaction of passing the heavyweight rite of passage.


Heavyweight Denim Is Earned in Every Ounce

Out of breath? Welcome to the world of heavyweight denim—jeans that demand more stamina than anything you’ve worn before.

But if you’ve made it this far, if you’ve actually read it all and you’re still interested, I think you’re ready to step up into the heavyweight division.

Just remember, you don’t earn comfort or fades overnight; you have to put in the work. The jeans resist, then relent, and finally become yours in a way few things do.

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Hey, it’s Thomas here, founder of Denimhunters. I send weekly emails with buying tips, denim knowledge, and practical style advice for guys who care about what they wear.

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The post The Best and Toughest Heavyweight Selvedge Jeans appeared first on Denimhunters.

DENIM and PATCHES sourced this post originally published on this site

Filed Under: Blog

Vintage Heavy – Quite Unique Denim!

October 8, 2025 by DENIMandPATCHES

vintage

Founded by Jason Geter, Vintage Heavy is a lifestyle/apparel brand targeted at people who are enthusiasts of heritage style. 

denim

Embracing the blue-collar intersection of art, fashion and function, Vintage Heavy is a lifestyle brand reimaging classic American menswear.

Geter, a global entrepreneur blends his love for music with an understanding of high-end retail, creating a brand that reflects authenticity, craftsmanship and culture. 

Their inspiration comes from a mix of workwear, military uniforms, prep styles, counterculture, art, nature, and global indigenous culture influences.

The brand emphasizes limited production (small batches), high‐quality materials, and craftsmanship. All of their items are manufacture in the USA with fabrics sourced both locally and from Japan when possible.

capsule collection

Besides really cool and very unique denims, their product range includes tops, fleece, uniforms, and more. Some items are collaborations, like Peanuts or Airstream) and they also have various different capsule collections.

The denim designs often feature graphic elements, vintage washes, rugged or textured fabrics, oversized or relaxed fits, and heritage details. Have a look at our gallery below.

vintage
fashion
jeans
collection
lookbook
made in the USA
black jeans

Vintage Heavy is sold at better retailers and its Atlanta flagship, Heavy Market.  

The post Vintage Heavy – Quite Unique Denim! first appeared on Denimology.

DENIM and PATCHES sourced this post originally published on this site

Filed Under: Blog

Historic White Oak Draper Looms Up for Sale Following Vidalia Mills Closure

October 7, 2025 by DENIMandPATCHES

The owner would prefer a “creative financial structure” over a complete sale.

DENIM and PATCHES sourced this post originally published on this site

Filed Under: Blog

Denim Washes: How to Choose the Most Flattering One on You

October 7, 2025 by DENIMandPATCHES

For most people, the only way to update a denim supply is to look for a new cut or an artful distressed look. After all, distressed is the in style look these days. But there’s a way to be more adventurous with your jeans that doesn’t involve cutting holes in them (not that we’re against it). The answer is to explore different denim washes.

Denim washing dates back to the 70s. At the time, most people did it to make their jeans more comfortable. But today, this technique is the magic behind the different types of jeans you see in magazines and the streets. From distressed to bleached denim washes, we can guarantee there are various options you’ve not tried that would look amazing on you.

First Things First: What is Denim Wash and Why Does It Matter?

Denim washing refers to the aesthetic finish imparted on denim fabric to improve its softness and comfort. Besides, the washing process allows the manufacturer to achieve different styles, such as faded and distressed looks.

However, not all jeans undergo the washing process. Some only go through a dyeing process and are referred to as dry denim. The benefit of dry denim is that you can enjoy in it’s “new” state and achieve the washed look as the fabric fades and ages.Understanding the different types of denim washes not only gives you an insight into the manufacturing process but also allows you to diversify your style by trying different options you probably didn’t know existed.

TYPES OF DENIM WASHES YOU SHOULD KNOW

Several technological factors go into making denim the fashion icon it is today. Over the years, the fabric has undergone vast improvements in weaving, finishing, and spinning. One of the most crucial steps in the jeans creation process is denim washing. It’s a vital step because it’s the only way manufacturers can achieve the look customers want. So which are the popular denim washing methods? Let’s find out.

Dyed Denim

When most people think about denim, the first thing that comes to mind is blue jeans. That’s probably because blue jeans were the first to be invented. However, today, you can find jeans in almost all colors. The fabric has to undergo a dyeing process to achieve a specific color on denim material.

Dyeing is quite different from other denim washes in the sense that it has a different effect; it aims at creating a more concentrated appearance. No matter the color, the fabric has to be dipped and oxidized severally to achieve the desired color. The more dipping and oxidization, the more vibrant the color of the jeans will be. The demand for colored jeans started back in the 90s, and it hasn’t stopped to date.

Sandblasting

Sandblasting is a technique that aims at producing large light-colored patches on the surface of the jeans. This trend became popular in the early 2000s. The jeans are stone washed, chemically treated, or abraded using sandpaper to achieve the look.However, most manufacturers have dropped this technique after employees developed lung cancer and silicosis. Nonetheless, you can still find jeans with this technique on the market.

Acid Wash

Acid wash is also among the must-have denim washes you’ll come across. Most people consider it an 80s piece of clothing, but it dates back to the 60s. And surprisingly, manufacturers use no acid in the manufacturing process. Back in the day, they used pool chemicals to achieve the acid wash look. Today, manufacturers use a combination of stone washing and chemical treatment.

They add pumice stones and chlorine in a large cylinder and treat the jeans. The result is a nearly bleached look between the indigo dye and worn fabric. Most people consider it a retro looking seeing that it’s associated with a specific period in time. For this reason, you have to make it the center of your outfit whenever you wear it to make a statement.

Stone Washing

Stone washing is similar to acid washing. It aims at producing spider web-like patches of light and worn patterns across the fabric. The technique is quite straightforward. The denim undergoes treatment in a large cylinder containing stones, which pound the jeans to achieve the look.

Stonewashed jeans were among the customer favorite denim washes back in the 90s. However, you can still get them today, although the technique may be somewhat lowkey.

Distressed

Just as the name suggests, distressed jeans are the type that looks aged even when they’re new. Manufacturers use different techniques to achieve the distressed look depending on which look they want to produce. Some of the popular methods include acid washing, sandblasting, and stone washing.

Distressed jeans tend to have patches of light colors on the surface, frayed edges, and seams, and sometimes some areas are completely destroyed. In short, these are the kind of jeans you think twice before wearing when you’re planning to meet the inlaws. They’re also not the best choice for people who play it safe when it comes to fashion. It takes someone bold to rock these type of jeans.

Enzyme Washing

Enzyme washing is an excellent alternative to stone washing. The goal of the technique is to achieve the aged look with bright patches on the fabric. Enzyme washing is better than stone washing for two reasons. For starters, it’s an environmentally friendly technique (which is what we need in this day and age).It’s also easy on the jeans. While the enzymes eat away at the exposed cellulose on the jeans, they don’t weaken the fabric’s composition. As a result, enzyme washed jeans tend to be more durable compared to stonewashed denim.

PICK THE RIGHT DENIM WASHES FOR A SOPHISTICATED LOOK

Hanged jeans after washing

Image by Ulrike Leone from Pixabay

There’s no doubt that light and dark blue jeans offer a timeless look. Not to mention, you can wear them with something as simple as a white t-shirt and still look great. But why would you play it safe when there so many denim washes to try out? As they say in fashion, life’s too short to wear boring clothes. So let’s find out how to pick the right denim washes to achieve a stunning look for any occasion.

Casual VS. Formal

The first thing you always need to do is to consider what type of occasion you are buying the jeans for. Is it a meeting with your boss or a hangout with your friends? If it’s the former, you need denim washes that scream formal. Dark denim washes are excellent for formal occasions. To achieve a classic formal look, men can wear jeans with a work shirt, belt, and formal shoes.

For the ladies, an official top and heels will do the trick. Flat shoes are also an excellent way to go if you’re not a fan of heels. If you need a pair of casual denim, light denim washes are excellent. You can pair them with a white t-shirt or a colorful one and your favorite pair of sneakers, and you’re good to go.

Durability

How many jeans have you decided you’ll only wear at home because they look nothing like how they looked when you bought them. We’ve all been there. You buy a pair of rich colored jeans only for them to fade into a completely different color after a few washes. The jeans quality and durability determines how long they’ll stay in perfect condition. Therefore, when shopping for jeans, it’s also essential to consider durability.Dark denim washes, especially dyed ones, tend to fade with frequent washing. Fortunately, the color won’t disappear overnight. It happens gradually. You can slow the fading process by reducing the number of washes. Instead of washing your jeans after every wear, clean them when they’re visibly dirty. That way, you’ll maintain the color longer, which is fantastic because you won’t have to buy another pair soon.

Is Distressed a Good Look?

Apart from color and durability, you’ll also have to choose between distressed denim washes and more laid back designs. Again, it boils down to what type of setting you plan to wear the jeans. Distressed jeans are excellent for casual settings, where there’s more freedom to wear whatever you want.

But don’t wear them to a meeting or brunch with your inlaws (unless they’re really cool and you’re 100 percent certain they won’t mind your way of dressing).

Styling is Key

One thing all denim washes have in common is that the styling must be impeccable for you to stand out. For instance, it’s not advisable to wear a shirt or t-shirt in the same color as your jeans. Doing so makes it look as if you’re in a one-piece suit, which is never a good look. For a stunning look, always ensure there’s a contrast between the colors you choose.For example, if you have dark wash denim, it’s best to wear a light colored shirt. You should also consider your accessories and shoes because they also have the power to make or break your look.

Fit is Everything

It doesn’t matter if you have the best denim washes in your closet if they’re all ill-fitting. The wrong fit draws the wrong kind of attention, and you definitely don’t want that. Therefore, when shopping for jeans, always make sure the fit is alright, and it frames your body in a flattering way. One way to ensure you have the right size is by trying the jeans on before buying them. And if you’re shopping online, make sure you know your measurements before ordering.

To Flatter or To Hide?

When trying to decide between different denim washes, it’s also vital to understand what you need. Do you need a denim wash that draws more attention to your curves or one that doesn’t? Lighter colors draw more attention compared to darker shades.

Therefore, if you want a pair of jeans that accentuates your curves, bright colors like light blue and white are the way to go. However, if you have killer curves and you’d like less attention, darker shades would be the best choice for you.

DIVERSIFY YOUR STYLE

Drying jeans after washing

Image by Myriam Zilles from Pixabay

We all love blue jeans. It’s a staple that never goes out of style. But with all the denim washes available today, you’d be missing out if you only limited yourself to blue jeans. Some denim washes like distressed jeans seem a bit risky if you have a reserved fashion style, but there are so many more styles to try out.

So stop limiting yourself. Try white jeans, acid washed jeans, and other bold colors you haven’t tried before. Who knows, you may find a new favorite denim wash. Which is your favorite denim wash, and why? Please share your views and thoughts in the comments section below. We love hearing from our readers.

Featured image by it’s me neosiam via Pexels.

DENIM and PATCHES sourced this post originally published on this site

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Best of the Blue Collar: Two Chambray Shirts Rise to the Top 

October 7, 2025 by DENIMandPATCHES

We hand-pick all products. When you buy something, we may earn a commission.

After Comparing Nearly Every Rugged Chambray Shirt on the Market, Bryan Finally Picked Two 

We’ve already published our definitive Guide to Chambray Shirts. I needed a serious chambray, and, at the time of writing that, I was still on the fence. I’d narrowed it down to ten chambray work shirts, all of them with serious heritage bona fides.

My plan was to go to Berlin and bring one of the shirts on my list home with me. I went, hit the shops, tried on every chambray shirt I could find (six of them from the list and six or seven others). Still, I came home empty-handed.

Just one of the beautiful chambrays I tried on in Berlin

The fabrics and details were all perfect, but my long arms and torso made things difficult. It was the same story with every brand I tried. None of the chambray shirts fit me right.

When I got back home, I went online and looked carefully at some of the chambray shirts I hadn’t been able to find in Berlin. Two of them, one from Big John and the other from Heimat, looked like a perfect fit.

Rather than weighing their respective merits, I ordered both of them. I’m glad I did. Here’s a look at the two chambray shirts that rose to the top. 


Heimat Arbeitshemd Trail Blue Chambray (4.5 oz.)

The trip to Berlin wasn’t a total bust. Over drinks in a beer garden, Matt Wilson (aka Cee Are Dee) raved about his Heimat Arbeitshemd Chambray, saying it had very quickly become his favourite button-up shirt.

We’ve recommended the shirt before, but Berlin was my first opportunity to handle one in person. The brilliant, sky-blue cotton, flecked with whisps of white, makes Heimat’s take on the classic work shirt an immediate stand-out in the category (largely dominated by darker blues).

The biggest difference-maker, though, is the way the shoulders are constructed. The raglan sleeve, which connects to the neck rather than the shoulder, gives the shirt a distinct rounded profile. If you’ve ever found the classic chambray a little too boxy, this one will be a revelation.

With its relaxed fit and long tails, it’s a perfect shirt to just throw on any which way. Either tucked in or worn with its tails loose, it pairs brilliantly with absolutely everything.

It’s easy to see why Matt praised the shirt to the heavens. I’ve had mine for a week, and I’ve worn it every single day. A truly remarkable bit of kit from our friends at Heimat—one that should absolutely be on your list if you’re looking for a new chambray.

BUY A HEIMAT CHAMBRAY HERE

If you buy something from Heimat after clicking the links in this article, we earn a small commission. That’s how we keep the site running, and it’s why there’s a big button.


Big John Selvedge Chambray (5 oz.)

For reasons that are a complete mystery to this reviewer, Big John cuts their chambray shirts considerably longer in the arms and body than their Japanese competitors. The measurements on their website looked too good to be true. I had to try one.

When it arrived, it was every bit as long as advertised. The fit was perfect, and everything I look for in a great selvedge chambray was there: indigo-dyed slub yarns, triple-stitched seams with miles of chain-stitch run-off, and beautiful shell buttons.

Big John’s website said I should expect to lose about an inch in all the measurements when I washed it, but, after a careful cold wash, it emerged from the machine virtually the same size as it was when I pulled it out of the packaging. You should be able to dial the shrink up or down with the temperature setting on your washing machine.

If you’ve struggled with Japanese sizing (particularly if length is an issue), Big John’s Selvedge Chambray should rocket to the top of your list. It gives you all the bells and whistles we associate with Japanese heritage brands in a fit tailored for longer Western bodies. Truly, it’s the best of both worlds.

We don’t earn commissions from Big John, but if you want to check out the shirt, you can do so here.


The Lesson

If I’ve learned anything from my chambray shopping experience, it’s the importance of patience and of casting a broad net. I didn’t jump at the first shirt that caught my eye. I bided my time and waited until I had tried almost everything on the market to make my move.

I can rest easy knowing that I made the right decision. If you pick either of the chambray shirts I’ve described above, you’ll be able to rest easy as well.

Perfect Pairing

Nothing pairs as well with chambray shirts as the perfect pair of selvedge jeans. Start the hunt for your perfect pair with our Selvedge Masterlist. If you’re planning to wear your chambray tucked in, start with our list of High-Rise Selvedge. 

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Hey, it’s Thomas here, founder of Denimhunters. I send weekly emails with buying tips, denim knowledge, and practical style advice for guys who care about what they wear.

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The post Best of the Blue Collar: Two Chambray Shirts Rise to the Top  appeared first on Denimhunters.

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The Perfect Wedgie– Introducing Wedgie Jeans

October 7, 2025 by DENIMandPATCHES

I don’t know if you’ve heard, but a couple of years ago Levi released a pair of jeans that purposely gives you a wedgie. This goes against the natural way of things since most of us prefer to AVOID wedgies. But if Khloe Kardashian can make camel toes a thing, then maybe the wedgie can make a stand while giving your tush a little help as well.

According to Levi, Levi’s Wedgie Jeans, yes, that is their actual name, “accentuates the waist and fits snug through the hips – designed to highlight a women’s curves.”

Essentially, they were promising the perfect pair of jeans that would give any wearer “that perfectly round derriere.”

Let’s go over the pros and cons of this new trend.

THE BRIGHT SIDE OF LEVI’S WEDGIES

1. THE “DERRIERE” WAS CERTAINLY FLATTERED

Image via Daily News

According to the testers at RealSimple, the jeans appear to follow a woman’s natural curves allowing for the flexibility preventing them from pushing your bottom into an unnatural shape.

The presence of wide pockets on the back helps to create a round shape even if your tush tends to be on the flatter side. This is welcome news for those of us not endowed with the back assets.

The editors of InStyle tested them with editors with tushes ranging from large and round to “non-existent” with each stated that indeed the Wedgie Fit Jeans does indeed deliver on their promise of a perfectly round tush. Or at least more there then before the jeans.

2. HIGH-QUALITY MATERIAL

Levi’s Wedgies are made of 100% cotton and deliver on their traditional commitment to high quality denim. The quality gives the jeans a bit of stiffness that helps them hold their shape, which is an advantage to them holding your tush in shape.

Most jeans are being made with Lycra-infused material giving them the stretchy feel and aesthetic we’ve become used to feeling in our jeans, but this stretch has the disadvantage of not giving the support and shaping that these jeans seem to give.

3. PROVIDES THE “IT” FIT

These jeans are definitely popular. Anthropologie’s website states that they are sold out and other style stores stock enthusiastically. Comments on Levi’s website show how enthusiastic customers are about these Wedgies, stating that the jeans make their bum look fabulous and round.

Giving the jeans 4 out of 5 stars, these jeans are one of the “It” jeans of the season. Levi’s wedgies seem to fit a diversity of women with bodies of all shapes and sizes. They are a modern take on classic jeans and don’t bunch up or bag out due to the high-quality cotton material. That is something to bow your hat to.

THE DARK SIDE OF THE WEDGIES

1. THE WAIST IS TOO SNUG

Image via Style This Life

One consistent complaint about the jeans from testers at both InStyle and RealSimple is the jeans fitting too snugly around the waist. As high-rise jeans, this can become a bit uncomfortable throughout the day.

It also might have an effect on the sizing as the consensus is that perhaps it would be better to get a size up on the jeans so the fit can be a bit more comfortable around the waist. This could lead to you losing a bit of the shaping effect, but your bum might thank you.

2. PERMANENT WEDGIES ARE STILL UNCOMFORTABLE

According to a BuzzFeed staffer at BuzzFeed, these jeans also do deliver on the wedgie promise. Stating that trying to sit felt like taking “a trip to hell and back” because of the affect on her lady bits. A practice lung brought on another line of fire.

Here suggestion? Perhaps take breaks and give the area a breather throughout the day for those with larger assets to offset the wedgie effects on the area.

The staff member’s conclusion was that the jeans delivered its promise. Its cute design and fit will make the trip worth it for those who are “into ‘em.”

3. LIMITED MOBILITY

While the snug fit helps the shaping effects of the jeans, as stated above, it also affects the mobility of the wearer. Most of the testers at InStyle agreed that they usually preferred high-rise, stretchy jeans that had a bit of grip and were not used to the stiffness of the wedgie jeans material.

Most also agreed that they loved the overall effects of the jeans on their bottom and were surprised at how well it made their tush look. They also stated that the jeans did loosen throughout the day and relaxed with time.

Overall, the jeans seemed to deliver on the promise for the perfect tush and had the women feeling “like a million bucks.” Though they are sold out on some sites you can find your pair on the Levi website.

Feature image via The Golden Girl Blog

DENIM and PATCHES sourced this post originally published on this site

Filed Under: Blog

Shockoe Atelier – Lifetime Repairs Guarantee

October 7, 2025 by DENIMandPATCHES

jeans

Shockoe Atelier is a denim-and-heritage apparel brand, founded in Richmond, Virginia (Shockoe Bottom neighborhood).

selvedge jeans

All denim is crafted at the same location: the atelier, workshop, retail and manufacturing.

sustainable denim
raw denim

Their mission is to make denim garments (jeans, jackets, etc.) ethically, by hand, in small batches – applying workwear and artisan principles. And worth mentioning is definitely the fact that they offer a lifetime repairs guarantee for their denim including rips, tears, blowouts. That’s a strong commitment.

Shockoe Atelier uses raw selvedge denim, like Collect Mills from Japan, stretch selvedge from Candiani, deadstock and unsanforized denim.

The denim styles include:

Standard Fit / Standard Wheeler – mid-rise with slight taper

Slim fits – straight fitted legs

Vintage – a relaxed wider cut

Utility jeans with a straight leg and roomy seat and thighs

Some of their styles feature reinforced knees and utility details like outside pockets.

You can check out all of their denim styles and fits here.

Besides denim, Shockoe Atelier ‘s collections also include tops like t-shirts and sweatshirts as well as accessories.

The post Shockoe Atelier – Lifetime Repairs Guarantee first appeared on Denimology.

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Envoy Textiles Secures $30M Sustainability-Linked Loan for New Spinning Facility

October 6, 2025 by DENIMandPATCHES

Funds will also be used to refinance short-term local working capital loans.

DENIM and PATCHES sourced this post originally published on this site

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Balenciaga Spring 2026 – Good Bye Denim!?

October 6, 2025 by DENIMandPATCHES

runway

Good bye, Demna – and hello Pierpaolo.

Pierpaolo Piccioli’s first Balenciaga collection for Spring 2026 felt like a haute couture coronation. Reverent, sculptural, and royally coutured. But…

So ok, in returning to the house’s architectural roots, he totally overlooked Balenciaga’s appeal to the young and trendy.

Seriously, there’s nothing wrong with Piccioli’s vision of the brand, but who of the Demna Balenciaga club wouldn’t actually prefer more of those outrageous denim interpretations which made Balenciaga THE denim haute couture brand to go for?!

We checked out the whole fashion show, presented at Balenciaga’s headquarters last week. And there was a total of three denim pieces included in the whole Spring 2026 collection.

jeans
denim bermuda

Have a look for yourself at the video below:

The denim isn’t flashy in terms of distress or extreme wash effects;. It feels more someone is reflecting on what worked before (archival, familiar shapes) rather than pushing new denim styles. Voila, come-back for skinny jeans? At Balenciaga?

Says Pierpaolo Piccioli:

“I wanted reconciliation. Culture and street. Heritage and reality. It was important that the clothes felt free, that you could just walk in them, walk out of them. Freedom is the point.“

So ok, we got the culture and heritage. Hopefully street will get it’s due attention in Piccioli’s next collections.

You can shop for Balenciaga items from the current Fall/Winter 2025 collection at FWRD, Farfetch, and at NET-A-PORTER.

The post Balenciaga Spring 2026 – Good Bye Denim!? first appeared on Denimology.

DENIM and PATCHES sourced this post originally published on this site

Filed Under: Blog

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