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Western Hat Brands That Still Feel Right With Denim in 2026 Image by Alyssa Jane on Unsplash The western hat and denim pairing has been a wardrobe constant for over a century, but the way the look works in 2026 differs meaningfully from how it worked even a decade ago.…
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The Valentino Resort 2027 collection introduces a cast of so-called ‘Villain Teens’ dressed in tartan, sequins, and slogan sportswear. And also in denim.
Set against the faded grandeur of Villa Gaia Gandini, the attitude is clear: it’s playful, irreverent, and rebellious enough without causing too much concern. The Villain Teens’ character, however, remains elusive.
Under Alessandro Michele, denim continues to occupy a supporting but increasingly important role within Valentino’s resort wardrobe. Rather than making jeans the focus, Michele treats denim as another luxurious fabric, layering it into his eclectic, vintage-inspired universe.
What we like about this collection is how denim meets couture. The collection mixes jeans with rich knitwear and jewelry, Victorian blouses, lace tops, and elaborate coats. This creates a perfect contrast between denim and ornate craftsmanship – or haute couture.
Conclusion: Valentino’s approach is soft and more romantic. Denim becomes part of Michele’s maximalist wardrobe. A companion to embroidery, lace, brocade, and vintage tailoring, rather than an isolated trend. With this Resort 2027 collection, the brand suggests that luxury denim in 2027 is moving toward decorative, artisanal, and heirloom-inspired treatments, emphasizing craftsmanship over novelty or trends.
You can shop for pieces from the current Valentino collection at Farfetch, NET-A-PORTER, and at Bergdorf Goodman.
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I probably should’ve done this week’s big update in April. But men don’t really shop ahead—not for seasonal things like lightweight jeans, anyway. We don’t really think, in two months, I’ll want something lighter. We think, it’s warm today, I’m sweating in these 21 oz. jeans.
This weekend, on the day most of the world celebrates Father’s Day, the Union trade show kicks off in Berlin. I’ll be heading down on Monday for a couple of days—catching up with the industry and helping out behind the scenes for Brund.
I publish the DH Weekly every Friday with new guides, product stories, denim news, and behind-the-scenes notes from Denimhunters. Join the list and get the next issue by email.
I’ve just finished a full rewrite of the lightweight selvedge jeans guide—one of the most-visited pages on the site, and one that hadn’t had a proper update since it was published two years ago.
What started as a quick tidy-up—check the links, swap out anything no longer available—turned into a couple days’ work.
I’ve added more brands, restructured it to be brand-first rather than product-first, and built a second section for what I call borderline lightweights.
For several brands, I’ve included more than one fabric—because some make more than one lightweight option, and sometimes a core fabric that sits just outside the criteria is worth putting in context too.
I also spent time thinking through what lightweight actually means, because it turns out there’s no industry standard and the sources I found mostly seem to trace back to the same 2013 article.
The conventional definition is anything less than 12 oz. I’ve made 12 oz. exactly the upper limit here, and included quite a few jeans at that weight—because this is denim, not gold.
But weight is only part of it. Fit matters just as much. A roomy 12 oz. will wear cooler than a slim 11 oz. every time—because what you’re really after is air between the fabric and your skin. So the guide also pays attention to that.
The borderline section covers fabrics that sit above 12 oz. on paper but belong in the conversation on feel—things like Warehouse’s Banner denim or Tellason’s 12.5 oz. Kaihara selvedge, where the weave, the yarn, and the cut do as much work as the spec. Especially in a roomy fit.
I also added a shortlist at the top for easy navigation—the brands I’d look at first—and a FAQ section at the bottom after I noticed a lot of the questions people actually have about lightweight denim weren’t being answered anywhere in the original guide.
Actually, the biggest change might be the smallest one. I’ve introduced a “price indicator system,” showing roughly what jeans from each brand start at. I’d like to know what you think of this before I roll it out across all the guides.
Staying with the theme of summer and lighter things, here’s what else caught my attention this week.
Fittingly, two drops from Gustin landed in my inbox the same week I was finishing the lightweight guide.
The Vidalia Superlight at 10 oz.—all-American, woven on vintage Draper X3 looms at Vidalia Mills—and the Japan Heavy Linen at 11 oz., which is 100% linen. Both fit squarely in the lightweight denim guide.
That’s the thing with Gustin. New fabrics launch all the time, which makes it hard to include any single option permanently in a guide like this—but it also means there’s almost always something interesting to watch for.
For a limited time—until June 30th or while stock lasts—every purchase of a TBOL (The Breaker of Legs, their 33 oz. selvedge jeans) or TBOA jacket comes with a free limited-edition 11 oz. tee worth $129. Stock on the tees is already running low.
Yes, 33 oz. in the middle of summer sounds a little counterintuitive—especially in the same issue as the lightweight guide. But SOSO is made to order, and the lead time right now is around 7–8 weeks.
Order today, and you’ll have them sometime in August, which is a much more reasonable time to start thinking about the heaviest custom-made jeans on the planet.
Speaking of SOSO: a fresh delivery just landed at Cultizm, headlined by the 33 oz. TBOL—now in a new left-hand twill construction—and the TBOA jacket in the same fabric.
The drop also includes Sashiko Denim Chinos; the 25 oz. Ghost Selvedge, the heaviest “normal” denim in SOSO’s lineup, as Cultizm puts it; and a blanket-lined selvedge denim jacket in 13.5 oz. And there’s more still!
Two things from Iron Heart this week. The 14 oz. indigo Kersey work and western shirts are back in stock—rope-dyed yarns, deeply ridged twill, fade potential you’d normally only get from denim. Warm, yes, but that’s part of the appeal.
The Baker Pants are a different story. A 4 oz. cotton/nylon fatigue-inspired cut, Iron Heart’s first Baker in over a decade—and already nearly sold out before they could even send a proper newsletter about it. If there’s a size left in yours, move fast.
The John Lofgren Champion Sneaker just landed at Brooklyn Clothing in two new colours—olive and black. Built in Japan at Moonstar, one of the last remaining vulcanised sneaker factories in the world, from 12 oz. Japanese chino selvedge.
Double-thick soles, double stitching throughout, and the kind of construction that ages well rather than falling apart. If you run large, size down half a size.
Two worth knowing about. KATO has kicked off their annual summer sale with up to 50% off select items—and if you’re travelling, they’ll hold your order until July 7th. Cultizm has also added new items to their summer sale, up to 50% off.
Brund has put together a limited metal-inspired merch capsule—a black trucker cap and a black crewneck tee, very few of the latter left—designed by Johan, their in-house merch wizard, for the crew heading to Copenhell this year.
All proceeds go to Kræftens Bekæmpelse—the Danish Cancer Society, which funds cancer research and supports patients and their families across Denmark. Worth a look if you’re after something to wear in the pit.
If the lightweight guide left you wanting to go deeper on the numbers—what denim weight actually means, how it’s measured, and why the ounce figure doesn’t tell the whole story—this is the one to read next.
What Is Denim Weight? How Ounces Work, and Why They Matter
The post There’s More to Lightweight Jeans Than Weight Alone appeared first on Denimhunters.
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GUESS united with Illumination and Universal Products & Experiences for a capsule collection.
This capsule is inspired by Illumination’s riotous new film ‘Minions & Monsters’, which blends vintage Hollywood glamour with iconic American denim. All reimagined through joyful, photo-realistic graphics and archival-inspired silhouettes.
Certain to be the blockbuster action-comedy of the summer, Illumination’s ‘Minions & Monsters’ arrives in theaters July 1. The movie is directed by Academy Award nominee, Pierre Coffin, a director of the first three ‘Despicable Me’ and the first ‘Minions’ film.
Launched globally on June 18th the collaboration draws inspiration from signature GUESS JEANS denim pulled from the archive alongside the upcoming film.
‘Minions & Monsters’ is the rambunctious, ridiculous story of how the Minions conquered Hollywood in the 1920s, became silent film stars, lost everything, unleashed monsters onto the world and then banded together to try and save the planet from the mayhem they had just created.
The capsule collection, rooted in the nostalgic spirit of 1920s Hollywood, merges cinematic fantasy with the lived-in attitude of classic Americana.
You can shop for this fun capsule collection here.
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Red denim is one of the breakout denim trends of Summer 2026, especially in Europe and among fashion editors tracking runway-to-street adoption.
The color red has moved beyond a simple “pop of red” accessory into full denim statements: jeans, denim skirts, and denim in general. And if you check out our lookbooks for the coming seasons, you will see that it’s a dominating color for the coming fall and winter season as well.
But note that not all reds are trending equally. For the fashion forwards among you – tomato red. poppy and racing red. led by a bright vermillion. And if you want to go for a more commercial and less attention calling, then burgundy and/or rust red is your best option.
Red denim is probably the biggest new color story in denim this summer, while white denim remains the safest and most widely adopted trend.
For someone tracking runway denim closely, red denim feels similar to where white jeans were a year earlier: not yet universal, but clearly moving from runway novelty to mainstream adoption.
In our gallery below you can find some amazing options for red denim. We hope you find your new “passion” right here:-)
AGOLDE Arc Jeans ($258)
GAP High-Rise Barrel Jeans ($44)
superdown Davey Denim Jacket ($72)
Madewell Low Slung Baggy Crop Jeans ($148)
Paige Anessa Wide-Leg Jeans ($144.90)
7 For All Mankind Shrunken Jean Jacket ($298)
TOVE Senna High-Rise Straight Leg Jeans ($357)
Liverpool Los Angeles Hannah Crop Slit Hem Flare Jeans ($109) – size inclusive
rag & bone Featherweight Phoebe Drawstring Jeans ($288)
The post Red Denim – Top Trend Summer 2026 first appeared on Denimology.
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Although Diesel’s creative director, Glenn Martens, incorporated sportswear, tailoring, and utility references throughout the collection, denim remained the undisputed foundation of Diesel Resort 2027.
Under Martens, Diesel’s Resort 2027 collection doubled down on the house’s experimental approach to denim while making it more wearable. Martens described it as a blend of “all the Diesel codes” with “a little bit more millennial clothes.
This latest Diesel collection suggests that the next phase of denim is less about extreme destruction and more about controlled distortion. Utility over chaos, trompe l’oeil finishes, elevated workwear, hybrid construction, and denim used beyond traditional jeans.
Check out the key denim pieces from Resort 2027 in our gallery below.
You can shop for the current Diesel collection on the brand’s website.
The post Diesel Resort 2027 – Lookbook first appeared on Denimology.
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6397’s Resort 2027 collection is about what the label has always done best. Elevated American basics with just enough unexpected detail to make them feel new.
Designed by Lizzie Owens, the collection focused on ease, optimism, and subtle experimentation rather than dramatic runway statements. Rather than chasing overt trends, Owens focused on pieces that most people wear daily, refining them through thoughtful finishing and proportion.
Owens wanted the collection to feel very light in response to the heaviness of the current moment, introducing peppy colors and playful details into the brand’s minimalist vocabulary.
Denim was treated as part of a complete wardrobe rather than a standalone category. The jeans felt quintessentially 6397: practical enough for everyday wear but elevated through thoughtful construction.
If there was one theme running through 6397 Resort 2027, it was that denim doesn’t have to shout to feel new.
6397 has long built its identity around understated denim, and Resort 2027 reinforces that philosophy. Instead of introducing an entirely new silhouette, the label proposes that the next evolution of jeans may come from small interventions—like a single dart, a subtle shift in proportion, or an unexpected seam placement.
You can shop for 6397’s current collection at Bergdorf Goodman, SSENSE, and at Neiman Marcus.
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Studded jeans are emerging as one of Summer 2026’s re-emerging denim trends.
The resurgence is tied to two larger movements: The ongoing indie sleaze revival, which embraces hardware and embellishment. Combined with a “lived-in” rock-and-roll attitude. And there is also the Y2K maximalism returning in a more polished way.
Rather than the heavily bedazzled skinny jeans associated with the early Y2K era, today’s versions use embellishments as accents rather than as the entire story. Unlike the heavily embellished jeans of the 2000’s, Summer 2026 versions are definitely more subtle and refined.
Fashion has been shifting away from quiet luxury toward pieces with more personality. Fashionistas are highlighting embellished denim as one way consumers are refreshing classic jeans without going to extremes.
Abercrombie & Fitch 90’s Straight Studded Jeans ($40)
ALLSAINTS Frankie Studded Jeans ($173)
Banana Republic Low-Rise Studded Cropped Jeans ($119.99)
Reformation Cary High-Rise Slouchy Wide-Leg Jeans ($218)
Joe’s Jeans The Margot Studded Straight Jeans ($208.60)
BLANKNYC Franklin High-Rise Straight Jeans ($168)
But – if you’re up to VERY studded – get your bad boys right here (below)!
MANGO Straight Fit Jeans With Studs ($139.99)
The post Studded Jeans – Comeback Trend This Summer first appeared on Denimology.
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It’s an exciting time to be running Denimhunters. After 15 years, the site is now generating enough revenue that, if the growth continues, it could become the only work I need to do to make my living. I almost can’t believe it!
There are still challenges ahead. I wrote about Google’s AI Mode in a previous issue, and I want the site to become even more useful, more practical, and harder to replace with a quick summary.
But honestly, I mostly feel energised. I still love researching, writing, improving old guides, building new ones, and trying to make Denimhunters better for the people who actually use it; people like you.
That’s what happened last Thursday. I started building a tool that had been sitting in the back of my mind for years, and once I started, I couldn’t let it go. And that’s not even all I’ve done this week.
I publish DH Weekly every Friday with new guides, product stories, denim news, and behind-the-scenes notes from Denimhunters. Join the list and get the next issue by email.
Sweden’s SOSO Brothers has added eight new selvedge denims to its Advanced Builder, ranging from an 8 oz. chambray to a 17 oz. yellow-core selvedge. But the interesting bit isn’t just the fabrics. It’s where they live.
If you’ve been on SOSO’s site recently, you may have noticed that the regular shop and the Builder are now separate things. I reached out to Johan and asked him to explain the difference.
The short version is this:
If you know exactly what you want, the Builder lets you go much further. If you don’t, the regular shop is probably still the better place to start. Customisation is great when it solves a problem. It’s less great when it simply gives you 47 ways to make a decision you weren’t sure about in the first place.
Of the new denims, the ones that caught my eye are the 15 oz. Snow Nep Indigo, the 11.5 oz. stretch selvedge, and the 8 oz. indigo chambray. But if you’re after something wilder, there’s also a 12 oz. selvedge with a “Rainbow Candy” weft.
Because apparently denim can still surprise us.
Tony Patella and Pete Searson are well-known names in the raw denim scene—surely familiar to most Denimhunters readers. Their San Francisco brand has been part of our world for years.
We’ve written about Tellason many times before, including a recent product story. But we haven’t done a proper guide to their jeans. Until now.
After nearly two decades, Tellason has built a solid range around three Japanese Kaihara selvedge denims: a lighter option for comfort and easy wear, a middleweight all-rounder, and a heavier denim with more structure and stronger fade potential. Those fabrics are available across a wide fit selection.
In the guide, Bryan breaks down the main options—from straight and slim straight to slim tapered, wide, and narrow tapered—and explains who they’re likely to work for.
Buying raw denim used to be hard because there weren’t many places to buy it. Now it’s hard for the opposite reason.
There are more brands, more retailers, more webshops, more regional specialists, more Instagram-famous stockists, and more small shops doing genuinely good work than ever before. And that’s great! But it also means that finding the right place to buy your next pair of jeans can take longer than expected.
Especially if you’re new to this. Or if you’re buying from another country. Or if you need hemming. Or if you’re trying to figure out whether a shop actually knows what it’s doing, or just happens to have the right brands on the shelf.
This is the guide I’ve wanted Denimhunters to have for years. Last Thursday, I started building it. At first, I thought I’d spend a day or two researching, organising a few ideas, and maybe getting a rough draft together. But once I got started, I couldn’t stop until it was done.
What began as one simple guide on where to buy raw denim turned into an entire series covering North America, Europe, Asia-Pacific, and even a separate guide on how to buy raw denim online without making expensive mistakes.
The first days went into figuring out what the guides should actually be.
One huge directory? Separate regional guides? Short shop entries or longer descriptions? Should partner shops get longer descriptions? Should I try to cover everything, or start with the places I could reasonably stand behind?
Every time I finished one section, I thought of another shop, another country, another detail, another way to improve it. I could easily have spent another week or two researching, polishing, expanding, and second-guessing.
That’s how useful projects get stuck. So I published it. The guides are not “perfect”. But they’re live, they’re useful, and they now have somewhere to grow from.
I’ve listed 120+ shops so far, and I’ll surely add more. This is where I could use your help.
You know your part of the world better than I do. Your country, your state, your city, your neighbourhood—unless you also live in Hørsholm, north of Copenhagen, in Denmark, in Europe—in which case you should come by for coffee.
So if one of your favourite denim shops is missing, tell me.
Not just any shop with jeans on the wall. I’m looking for the places you’d actually recommend. Shops with good brands, good advice, proper hemming, decent service, fair shipping, or people behind the counter who understand what they’re selling.
That’s what I’m trying to build here. Not just a list of stockists, but a guide that helps people find the right place to buy.
There are more good brands, more good retailers, and more detailed product pages than ever. But that hasn’t made shopping for jeans online easier.
Because how will the fit look on you? Which size should you get? Who has the best price? Who offers hemming? What happens if you need to return them? And what will the denim actually look like after six months of wear?
That’s the kind of uncertainty I’ve always wanted Denimhunters to help solve. The new shop guides help you find the right place to buy. But there’s another resource I’ve wanted to build for a long time: a proper jeans finder.
The idea would be to use my curation and recommend trusted brands and retailers, “translating” all the information out there into something useful: which fits to consider, where to buy them, what to be careful about, and why one option might make more sense for you than another.
Before I make the investment to build this, I’d love your input: When you shop for jeans online, what usually makes the decision difficult?
The post Why I’ve Started Mapping the World’s Best Raw Denim Shops appeared first on Denimhunters.
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Affiliate disclaimer: We work with most brands and retailers featured and earn commission on purchases.
At its absolute best, American workwear manages to both look and to be as tough as nails. When the legacy brands stopped using selvedge denim and moved their production overseas to inexpensive labour markets, they effectively surrendered to the idea that style and substance didn’t have to be connected in this way.
Tellason, founded in 2008 by Pete Searson and Tony Patella in San Francisco, the spiritual home of rugged American workwear, built their brand one pair at a time, always guided by the belief that style and substance can and should go hand in hand.
Their pairs, still made in San Francisco, can play in any position. If you’re hard on your pairs, Tellasons are tough enough to outlast just about anything. If denim is simply a style choice for you, you’ll find the cuts flattering and the denims unfussy yet beautiful.
Whether you’re looking for your first pair of well-made selvedge or just your next pair, you should familiarise yourself with Tellason’s popular cuts and denims. Below, we’ll introduce you to Tellason’s core selvedge denims, all milled in Japan, and their five best cuts, all cut and sewn in San Francisco.
For rugged style and maximised fade potential, go with the John Graham Mellor in Tellason’s 16.5 oz. Kaihara selvedge.
For a more modern cut that fades beautifully but breaks in easily, try Tellason’s Ladbroke Grove in their 14.75 oz. Kaihara selvedge.
For an easy-wearing and fast-fading pair, combine the straight Ankara with Tellason’s 12.5 oz. Kaihara selvedge.
In the beginning, Tellason used American-made selvedge woven at the iconic White Oak Cone Mills plant in North Carolina—the same mill that produced selvedge denim for Levi’s and Wrangler in their selvedge heydays.
When the White Oak plant closed its doors in 2017, Tellason found a willing partner across the Pacific in Kaihara Mills. The Japanese mill produced a range of three proprietary selvedge denims for Tellason that have, ever since, served as the sturdy backbone for the American brand’s line-up.
Since all of these denims are the same price, it really comes down to personal preference. What do you prefer? Comfort? Durability? Fade potential? A blend of all three? The best choice for you will depend on how you answer this question.
Lightweight and highly versatile, Tellason’s 12.5 oz. indigo selvedge denim will be an excellent choice if you’re looking for comfort or ease of use. If stiff and uncomfortable denim is a deal-breaker for you, start with this one.
While the heavier denims will be a better choice if you want sharp contrasts, Tellason’s lightest selvedge has a long history of producing beautiful fades. You’ll have to push it hard and keep it dry if you want to cut deep creases into it.
Choose the 12.5 oz. denim if you want the easiest-wearing Tellason selvedge, especially for warmer weather, travel, or everyday comfort.
While the Cone Mills selvedge denim that Levi’s used in their most iconic years tipped the scales at around 10 oz., denim reproduction specialists have largely gravitated towards slightly heavier selvedge denims, usually in the range of 14 oz., for their pairs.
It’s a popular choice for both brands and consumers, and it’s easy to see why. Easy to wear every day (especially when it’s been broken in), it’s the ideal choice for those who want that full raw denim experience, including unbeatable comfort that has to be earned.
An excellent choice if you’re planning to choose one of the slimmer cuts. The break-in period will pass quite quickly, and you can expect some eye-catching contrasts across the lap and behind the knees if you really push this pair.
Choose the 14.75 oz. denim if you want the safest all-rounder in Tellason’s selvedge line-up.
Tellason’s flagship selvedge, this crispy middleweight denim has been behind the lion’s share of the incredible fades produced by Tellason fans over the years. A true legend in the scene, it’s earned its reputation and then some.
If you’ve been drawn into the world of selvedge either by fades or the promise of more durable denims, this is definitely our top recommendation. With a long track record of rough use and abuse, this selvedge can handle whatever you can throw at it.
Choose the 16.5 oz. denim if you want the most iconic Tellason fabric, the strongest fade potential, and the pair most likely to reward hard wear.
Pete and Tony at Tellason have a preternatural gift for crafting eye-pleasing, flattering, and timeless cuts. It’s just one of the things that have made Tellason such a popular brand for newcomers—and why so many fans stick with the brand, pair after pair.
Here’s a look at five of what we feel are their best cuts. For each pair, you’ll find a few notes about which builds they’re best suited to. These aren’t hard and fast rules, but if you’re unsure which Tellason cut will work best for you, this should be a good place to start.
Best for athletic builds, boot guys, and classic straight-leg style.
Based on American classics from the middle of the twentieth century, the Ankara (named for the birthplace of Joe Strummer of The Clash) is Tellason’s take on the fit that turned jeans from workwear into a fashion staple in the 1950s.
Unless you have very large legs, you’ll find the top block and thighs roomy and comfortable. Those with athletic builds—especially guys who aren’t afraid of the squat rack—will fill out the top half of the jeans very nicely. Very slim guys will likely find the slimmer cuts below more flattering.
Thanks to the wider leg opening, the Ankara fit pairs well with either lace-up or pull-on leather boots. Complete the look and keep things in the same spirit with a white tee and a Type III denim jacket. If you like tucking in your tees, this is definitely the right fit for you.
If you like the room up top but want a slight taper instead of a straight leg, check out the Sheffield fit.
Best for slim builds and modern rugged style.
One of Tellason’s most popular cuts, the John Graham Mellor (the birth name of, you guessed it, Joe Strummer of The Clash), is a highly adaptable fit that feels both contemporary and classic.
The fit works best for guys on the slimmer side. Like most slim straight cuts, it can start to look and feel quite tight if you’ve got some meat on your thighs and hips. For those with slim legs, though, this fit will (particularly in the heavier versions) help you look a little more muscular.
With less of a leg opening to work with than you’ll find in the wider fits, the John Graham Mellor will work exceptionally well with lace-up boots or sneakers. For best results, pair this fit with a heavy flannel or a slim-fitting denim western.
If you like the slim-straight shape but prefer a mid rise, have a look at the Blubaugh fit.
A great fit for average builds and an unfussy casual vibe.
A modern cut that nicely follows the curves of most legs, the Ladbroke Grove (named for the London neighbourhood where Joe Strummer lived in his early days as a hell-raising musician) is an excellent everyman, everyday jean.
With the low rise, the Ladbroke Grove won’t do you many favours if you have a pronounced belly. Something with a higher rise will be a better choice. For just about everybody else, though, this fit looks lean, mean, and modern.
Lean into the casual vibe of this pair by pairing the Ladbrokes with sneakers and an untucked tee—the rise is too low to tuck anything into the waistband. It will also look excellent with comfortable leisure pieces like a sweatshirt or hoodie.
If you like the slim tapered shape but want a mid-rise instead, check out the Elgin fit.
Best for big-legged gents or youthful street style.
Tellason’s newest fit was a response to a growing interest in wider cuts. Named for denim legend Fredy Vuille from VMC Originals in Zurich, the Fredy caters to hyper-stylish customers whose appreciation for baggy cuts has shown no signs of abating. It’s also a strong option for men with larger legs looking for something they don’t have to squeeze into.
The Fredy is definitely wide enough to accommodate tree-trunk-sized legs. The silhouette is nicely balanced, with a higher rise and generous top block, which combine for a very flattering and comfortable fit for bigger men.
With the higher rise, the Fredy will pair brilliantly with boxier above-the-belt pieces like the Type I or Type II jacket or chore coat. If you’re on the slimmer side, you’ll want to look for equally generous shirts and jackets to keep the proportions balanced and avoid looking like a Christmas tree.
Thomas has also reviewed the Fredy fit in detail here.
Best for slim builds and hard-nosed style.
Gustave takes its name from The Clash bassist Paul Gustave Simonon. The fit itself, though, came from Pete and Tony’s friend Brian Awitan, who sent them an altered pair of jeans with a sharp taper. They considered naming the fit after him, but Gustave became the safer choice.
This is the tightest pair in the Tellason line-up, but it’s not truly painted-on. If that’s what you’re after, you’ll find much tighter pairs on the market. For slim or skinny guys looking for a hard-nosed and rock-infused style, though, this pair’s likely got your name written all over it.
Lean into this pair’s rock-and-roll vibe with other slim-fitting pieces and black leather. If you’ve already got a motorcycle jacket and you’re looking for the perfect pair to wear with it, the Gustave will be a great choice. Slip-on boots will be a no-go, but this fit will work great with just about everything else.
We’ve focused on the five fits above because they cover most of Tellason’s range from slim to wide. Tellason also offers these three fits:
The Blubaugh is best understood as the mid-rise alternative to the John Graham Mellor. Both are slim-straight fits, but the JGM sits lower, while the Blubaugh gives you more rise.
The Sheffield is essentially the tapered alternative to the Ankara: mid-rise, fuller thigh, and a taper below the knee.
The Elgin does something similar for the Ladbroke Grove, giving you a mid-rise slim tapered fit rather than a low-rise one.
Tellason doesn’t publish full measurement charts on their own site, so if you think you’re between fits, reach out to them directly with measurements from a pair you already own and like.
Sizing and shrinkage: Tellason’s raw denim guide says that you can expect shrinkage somewhere in the range of 1–3%, meaning they’re likely to stretch more than they’ll shrink. Aim for a snug but comfortable fit.
Break-in and fades: Tellason’s lighter denims will naturally feel easier earlier, while the 16.5 oz. denim will ask for a little more patience at the beginning. None of the three are extreme by raw denim standards, so the choice should come down to how much structure, break-in, and fade contrast you want.
Care: Wash when needed. Turn them inside out, use cool water and mild detergent, and hang dry. Tellason also points out that skipping the commercial wash process is part of the environmental logic behind raw denim. The jeans arrive unwashed, and because most raw denim wearers wash less frequently, the impact is lower than heavily pre-laundered denim.
Hemming and repairs: Tellason offers complimentary chain-stitch hemming, including for pairs bought from other retailers. Worn jeans need to be freshly washed before you send them in.
Shipping: Tellason offers free domestic shipping on orders over $150, excluding Surplus Store orders. International shipping is available at a flat rate of $40, but customs and import duties are paid by the recipient and vary by country.
Returns and exchanges: Domestic returns and exchanges are free on regular-priced orders over $150, provided the items are unworn with tags attached. International customers are responsible for return and exchange shipping. Sale-section items are final sale, and all returns and exchanges must happen within 30 days of purchase.
Tellason has been one of our favourite brands for years, so we’ve covered them frequently. You can find an in-depth look at the history of the brand here, and a look at what we feel are their five most iconic pieces here.
Hi, I’m Thomas, founder of Denimhunters. If you liked this article, you should check out the DH Weekly. It’s my weekly column and newsletter that I publish every Friday, with new guides, deals, and things worth paying attention to.
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