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Built for Fades: Realign’s New Line Pays Homage to Japan

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1 Fit, 3 Denims—The ‘Ode to Japanese Denim’ from Robin Meijerink’s Realign Brand Is All About Fades

If you’re really into denim, you’ve probably daydreamed about making your own jeans. But unlike most of us, Robin Meijerink did more than dream—he made it happen.

Known as Robin Denim, he built his name in the selvedge scene starting with his @robindenim Instagram in 2014. His strategy of reposting fade shots was pretty revolutionary back then, helping him build a platform that connected him with brands, retailers, suppliers, and trade shows.

A turning point came in 2017 with his collaboration alongside Benzak and Cultizm. This unique project—combining a pair of jeans with a fade contest—was a stroke of brilliance.

It marked the beginning of Robin’s deepening involvement with Japanese denim, and surely grew his appetite for something truly his own.

Fast forward to 2021, and Realign Denim was born, turning his dream into reality. Now, Realign has just launched its latest collection called ‘Our Ode to Japanese Denim.’

The Next Step in Realign’s Journey

With this latest release, Realign Denim focuses on what sets the brand apart: premium fabrics, traditional Japanese craftsmanship, and the fading journey that denim enthusiasts cherish. All packaged ever so elegantly.

Robin has been using his fellow Dutchman, @marcel.denim, as a model since launching Realign

This collection highlights the Regular Kenji—their most popular fit—paired with three distinct, carefully selected fabrics. Each denim is designed to evolve with wear, offering different fade experiences to suit various preferences.

It includes the deep Double Indigo II, the heavyweight Atsude Selvedge, and the textured Osaka Denim—all showcasing Realign’s commitment to quality and Japanese artistry.

#1: Regular Kenji 14 oz. Double Indigo II

The 14 oz. Double Indigo II is an indigo lover’s dream. Dyed in pure indigo on both the warp and weft, the fabric has a rich, almost purple hue straight off the rack.

But the magic happens as it fades—these jeans evolve with high-contrast fades, from vibrant blue to crisp white in areas of wear.

Spun from a blend of American and Australian cotton, this denim is built to age beautifully, giving you jaw-dropping fades over time.

BUY THE 14 OZ. DOUBLE INDIGO II HERE

#2: Regular Kenji 17 oz. Atsude Selvedge

For heavyweight denim enthusiasts, the 17 oz. Atsude Selvedge delivers serious weight with surprising comfort. Woven from slub yarns in Japan’s denim capital, Kojima, this heavyweight fabric is all about high-low contrast fades.

The loose weave and slub texture add incredible depth, ensuring that each pair tells a unique story. If you’re in for the long haul, this pair will reward you with fades that stop people in their tracks.

GET THE HEAVYWEIGHT ATSUDE SELVEDGE

#3: Regular Kenji 14.5 oz. Osaka Denim

The 14.5 oz. Osaka Denim is a nod to the early days of Japanese selvedge, with a hairy texture and standout pink selvedge ID.

Unwashed but soft from the start, this pair is easy to wear day in, day out. Its deep blue hue with a grey cast will develop rich, all-over fades, making it the perfect entry into raw denim for those ready to dive into the world of selvedge.

GO CLASSIC WITH THE 14.5 OZ. OSAKA DENIM

The Features That Define Realign

Realign’s attention to detail is unmistakable. Every pair is equipped with signature features that define the brand’s commitment to quality, including:

  • Tonal stitched arcuates on the back pockets
  • Indigo-dyed deerskin leather patch
  • Hidden rivets on the back pockets
  • Peek-a-boo selvedge detail on the coin pocket
  • Chain-stitched hems and waistbands

These features ensure that Realign jeans are built to last, wear beautifully, and stay true to their roots in Japanese craftsmanship.

Realign’s Regular Kenji Fit (and Other Fits)

At the heart of the collection is the Regular Kenji, a fit that prioritises comfort without sacrificing style.

The Regular Kenji’s relaxed top block and tapered leg offer versatility, making it the go-to fit for denimheads looking for an everyday option that’s easy to wear and built for optimal fades.

But Realign has more fits to offer (though they’re not part of this collection):

Slim Sakuta

For those who prefer a sharper, more streamlined silhouette, the Slim Sakuta is a perfect choice. This fit is all about a lean, modern profile, offering a snugger fit that doesn’t compromise on comfort.

Tapered Yoshi

Sitting comfortably between the Kenji and Sakuta, the Tapered Yoshi gives you room in the thighs with a clean, sharp taper below the knee. It’s the ideal choice for those who want a relaxed feel without losing the tailored look.

While the “Our Ode to Japanese Denim” collection is dedicated to the Regular Kenji, Realign’s broader lineup gives enthusiasts a variety of options, each crafted with the same dedication to quality and craftsmanship.

Ready to Start Your Fade Journey?

Explore the “Our Ode to Japanese Denim” collection and discover how Realign Denim combines tradition, quality, and personal expression.

Visit Realign’s webshop to find your next pair and begin your fade journey.

The post Built for Fades: Realign’s New Line Pays Homage to Japan appeared first on Denimhunters.

DENIM and PATCHES sourced this post originally published on this site

Levi’s® x ADSB ANDERSSON BELL Collaboration

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Levi's

Levi’s® and ADSB ANDERSSON BELL reimagine classic Levi’s® styles in first-ever collaborative collection.

Based in Seoul, fashion label ADSB ANDERSSON BELL defies traditional norms by merging contrasting elements to capture the essence of innovation and aesthetic harmony. Weaving together a tapestry of diverse cultural elements into a singular, cohesive vision, the label has emerged as a transformative art form.

Like ADSB ANDERSSON BELL, Levi’s® reinterprets staples of fashion and brings together seemingly disparate elements of culture to craft something bold and new. By deconstructing classic Levi’s® styles and materials into reimagined pieces, the first-ever Levi’s® x ADSB ANDERSSON BELL collection creates something beautifully unexpected.

The ten-piece Levi’s® x ADSB ANDERSSON BELL collection features a Pleated Skirt, Denim Corset, Spliced Trucker, Half Trucker, Overlay Jean, Baggy Jean, Mini Dress, Cinched Blouse, and Second Skin top. 

Designed to be worn together, the Denim Corset and Pleated Skirt offer the perfect matching set. The midweight Pleated Skirt includes sewn pleats, a front zip fly, and co-branded patch on the back hip. Crafted with halter top strap detailing, adjustable button holes, and a garter detail that can connect to the skirt, the Denim Corset’s gusseted lace-up details on the back offer first customization for a range of body types. 

The deconstructed and reconstructed Spliced Trucker utilizes ADSB ANDERSSON BELL wool fabric with non-stretch denim to form a slightly oversized jacket that weaves in iconic Levi’s® features, like Type II pleating at the center front. For a boxy, slimmer fit, the Half Trucker shows off intricate features – open lacing at the shoulders and a bustier front that exemplifies its design ethos of mixing styles and materials. Both jackets feature a special co-branded backpatch on the back. 

The two new pairs of jeans offer clever interpretations of beloved Levi’s® denim. Playing with pattern with “misplaced” pockets and asymmetrical features, the Overlay Jean and Baggy Jean reimagine classic Levi’s® features through the ADSB ANDERSSON BELL future-forward fashion lens. The deconstructed and reconstructed Overlay Jean offers an overlapping front closure while the Baggy Jean comes with a contrast yoke and frayed details. Both come with a co-branded patch on the wearer’s back right.  

You can shop for this capsule collection here and here.

The post Levi’s® x ADSB ANDERSSON BELL Collaboration first appeared on Denimology.

DENIM and PATCHES sourced this post originally published on this site

High and Dry: The Best of High-Rise Selvedge Jeans

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All products are hand-picked by us. When you buy through our links, we may earn a commission.

Slimming and Stylish, High-Rise Jeans Can Radically Transform Your Selvedge Style

For the better part of two decades, low-slung pairs have dominated my collection. This changed when I finally bit the bullet and got a pair of generously cut, high-rise selvedge jeans from Ruttloff.

Suddenly, I was able to pair my jeans with dressier shirts, which only look right when tucked into high waistbands. But even with untucked looks, the pair was a revelation.

All of those shorter shirts that had languished at the back of my closet suddenly made perfect sense.

Short tees finally covered my belt, and I was finally able to unbutton the bottom button on all my vests.

Why High-Rise Jeans Make Sense for Most Body Types

Larger men have long understood the slimming properties of higher-rise pairs, but their benefits are not reserved for the portly.

The higher waistband neatly bisects the body into highly pleasing proportions, highlighting long and slim legs and shortening long torsos.

Jake aka @almostvintagestyle could be the poster boy for the high-rise look

If, like me, you’ve found something that works for you in lower-rise pairs and stuck with it, you might find one of the pairs below a revelation.

At the very least, it’ll add a little bit of variety to your selvedge collection. 

Be aware that, because higher-rise pairs sit higher on the hips, this may affect your waist size. Read the measurement charts carefully and, to make sure you’re getting the right size, double-check your waist measurements with a measuring tape.

Visit our men’s jeans fit guide for more tips for buying jeans that fit you.

Warehouse 1001XX Banner Denim (13.5 oz.)

We’re leading off with the undisputed kings of clean, long-legged vintage cuts: Warehouse and Co. With immaculate craftsmanship and breathtaking denims, Warehouse pairs can be found in the collections of discerning denimheads worldwide.

Warehouse 1001XX, casually styled by Lost & Found

The 1001XX is a stitch-perfect reproduction of the Levi’s 501 produced shortly after the end of WWII. The Banner Denim is a result of a literally microscopic analysis of a deadstock Levi’s banner from the period. It’s as close as you can come to the real thing without a time machine. 

A pair of these took home the bronze medal in Year Three of the Indigo Invitational, and they might be the best combination of vintage and contrast fading that we’ve ever seen in the competition. Why we don’t see more competitors wearing this brand is an enduring mystery.

BUY THE WAREHOUSE 1001XX JEANS HERE

TCB ‘50s Regular Straight (13.5 oz.)

One of the many TCB pairs that retailers can’t keep on their shelves, TCB’s generously cut ‘50s Regular Straight is the near-perfect three-way collision of comfort, style, and value. A bargain at any price, they fly out the door in a hurry everywhere they’re stocked.

These fit pics of the TCB ’50s jeans are from Withered Fig

The unfussy lightweight selvedge is designed to be used and abused. Wear it, wash it, even throw it in the dryer if you like (we don’t recommend this, but they do). They fade beautifully to a butter soft pair the colour of a cloudy sky on a summer’s day.

TCB’s ‘50s Regular Straight fit—faded to perfection by Ryo from TCB

Contrasts won’t come easy with this pair, but you can expect glorious all-over fades and roping at the chain-stitched hems. A great pair for those who want to get a lot without spending a lot.

BUY TCB’S LOOSE CUT ’50S JEANS HERE

Iron Heart 888S-19L (19 oz.)

The slimmest pair on this list, this will be a great choice for those with slimmer legs who don’t want to push the envelope with wider-legged fits.

Roomy in the top block, the pair tapers gently from the knee to the cuff. Stylish and highly adaptable, the cut flatters a wide range of body shapes. For bigger men, the ample top block and generously cut thighs will be a perfect mixture of style and comfort.

The 19 oz. ‘lefty’ denim is a fade beast—here’s James aka @luvthefades’ Type III jacket

Iron Heart offers the 888 in denim ranging from 14 oz. to 25 oz. Our favourite, the 19 oz. Left Hand Twill, is smack dab in the middle of this range. Thanks to its extremely tight weave, you can expect some leg twist as the pair ages—particularly in the right leg. 

GET YOUR HIGH-RISE 888 IRON HEARTS HERE

Indigofera Kain (14 oz.)

This brand new fit from Sweden’s hometown heroes features a sky-high rise and a graceful straight leg that cries out to be paired with slip-on boots. Though it’s not the widest leg in the Indigofera line-up (that’d be the Kirk), it’s our favourite among their higher-rise offerings.

The neppy selvedge (milled in Japan, of course) is absolutely dripping with texture. Pair it with a tucked in tee for a classic 1950s vibe.

Fit pics of the Kain from Second Sunrise

The denim is sanforized but unwashed. Wear them for at least a few months before washing them in cold water. They should return to the size they were when you bought them. 

GET INDIGOFERA’S NEW KAIN JEANS HERE

Full Count 0105 (13.7 oz.)

One of the fits that made Full Count’s name synonymous with Japanese denim in the ‘90s, the 0105 was updated recently to give the wearer more room in the seat and thighs. The fit, renamed the 1953 Cut, is everything a generously cut high-rise pair should be.

The arcuates also disappeared in the update, which might not tickle your fancy if you’re a fan of embellished back pockets. For our money, though, the pared-down pairs are an improvement over the original.

The selvedge denim, woven in Japan, is made with Zimbabwe cotton. The lightweight denim is incredibly comfortable, but don’t let its softness fool you. It’s got a heart of iron and can definitely go the distance. 

BUY THE FULL COUNT 0105 JEANS HERE

Freenote Modesto (16 oz.)

The Modesto is a very recent addition for Freenote, and we think they’ve knocked this high-rise fit out of the park. Made in the United States from Japanese selvedge, the pair is an immaculate fusion of East and West.

Full-sized cuff is optional

The acorn-shaped back pockets definitely pull this pair decidedly towards the West. Stylish, vintage-inspired details like this are what helped put Freenote on the map, and they remain a top choice for those looking to stand out from the pack.

The 16 oz. selvedge has a slight green cast to it which will become more apparent as the jeans age. They produced this pair in extremely limited quantities, but we’re hoping it will become a full-fledged member of the Freenote family. 

GET THE FREENOTE MODESTO JEANS HERE

Mister Freedom Californian Lot 64 (13 oz.)

Brought to you by the king of Southwest Americana, Christophe Loiron, the Californian Lot 64 are the result of the longstanding partnership between Japan’s Sugar Cane and California’s Mister Freedom.

With just a touch of taper, the jeans fall gracefully from waist down to the cuffs. With the brand’s trademark M’s on the pockets and a cowhide patch on the right pocket, they look as good going as they do coming.  

The denim, a blend of 70% cotton and 30% sugarcane fibres, features a reddish cast and a neppy face. Exceptionally hairy, it’s a treat for both the hands and the eyes.

GET A PAIR OF MISTER FREEDOM JEANS HERE

Denime Lot 220XX 1947 Model (14.5 oz.)

The second-oldest member of the Osaka Five, Denime started producing faithful reproductions of vintage Levi’s pairs in the late ‘80s. The swelling enthusiasm for these reproductions helped but Japanese denim on the map in the ‘90s and ‘00s.

Warehouse and Co. now handle production for some of Denime’s most iconic products (including the 220XX), so this pair is made from a version of Warehouse’s iconic Banner Denim. The chief difference is the brown-tinted weft, which some prefer to white-wefted original.

A brilliant pair with an unimpeachable pedigree, a pair of these will get you deep nods of appreciation in the right circles.

PICK UP DENIME’S 220XX 1947 JEANS HERE

Sugar Cane 1946 Model (13.5 oz.)

Another brilliant example of a Japanese brand going the extra mile to produce a truly authentic original, Sugar Cane’s 1946 model is the pet project of the brand’s director, Yuichi Fukutomi—an outpouring of his passion for vintage Americana.

They released two models, the 1943 and the 1946. The one we’ve featured here is the 1946, which reproduces some of the details from when Levi’s were first freed from the limitations imposed on them during wartime. The pair is a little rough around the edges, but this is the point.

We love pairs that tell a great story, and this one tells a story of the resilience of American manufacturing in the years immediately after WWII.

GET A PAIR OF SUGAR CANE 1946 JEANS HERE

Studio D’Artisan SD-909 G3 (14 oz.)

Another brown-wefted beauty from an Osaka Five brand, Studio D’Artisan’s SD-909 features denim woven on the Toyoda G3 loom, the first selvedge loom produced in Japan. Only one mill in Japan still has operational Toyoda G3s, so this denim is as rare as it is beautiful. 

Thanks to its strong taper from the knee down, the SD-909 will be a great choice for those who want a high rise and a generous top block and thighs but don’t want to be swimming in wide cuffs. An excellent mixture of modern and traditional.

The denim is unsanforized and unwashed, so expect at least a full size of shrinkage with this pair. Read the measurement chart carefully. Like all unsanforized denims, we recommend that you soak the pair before wearing them.

BUY THE HIGH-RISE SD-909 G3 JEANS HERE

Buzz Rickson’s WWII Waist Overalls (13.6 oz.)

Best known for their meticulous reproductions of Army, Navy, and Airforce classics, Buzz Rickson’s can go toe to toe with selvedge brands—particularly when it comes to perfectly authentic period pieces.

Another pair based on the jeans produced during WWII, when the American government imposed strict material-saving restrictions on manufacturers, the WWII Waist Overalls feature period-correct details like iron rivets (instead of the usual copper) and a rivetless coin pocket.  

There is some discrepancy between the tagged waist size and the waist measurements, so don’t order your usual size without first checking the measurements extremely carefully.

PICK UP A PAIR OF BUZZ RICKSON’S JEANS HERE

Complete the Kit with a Tee and Some Boots

High-rise pairs can radically transform your style, but this doesn’t mean you need an entirely new wardrobe. They’ll pair brilliantly with a tucked-in loopwheeled tee and a pair of boots.

To get the latest on what we’re wearing and looking at, sign up for the Denimhunters newsletter here. 

The post High and Dry: The Best of High-Rise Selvedge Jeans appeared first on Denimhunters.

DENIM and PATCHES sourced this post originally published on this site

MM6 Maison Margiela Spring 2025 – Destroyed!

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MM6 Maison Margiela’s spring is – well – as our title points out – destroyed!

So, if you think you’ve seen it all when it comes to ripped jeans?! Check out what MM6 has in store for us this coming spring, And then, think again! Distressed jeans is like putting it mildly according to MM6’s latest collection.

distressed
ripped jeans

Margiela’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection maintains its avant-garde spirit with a stripped-back, yet intriguing, approach. Designed to embrace summer’s heat, the collection showcases effortless yet unconventional pieces.

From DIY-inspired elements like knotted T-shirts to oversized accessories such as bold belts and statement handbags, the line evokes a sense of reimagined everyday wear. Iconic staples like suits and cowboy boots get fresh white paint treatments, while accessories—like oversized sunglasses and bracelet clutches—make bold statements.

The collection also revisits Margiela’s AIDS awareness print, bringing past messages into contemporary focus.

maison margiela

And if you love leather, then you will really like to see the cracked leathers in this collection – see below.

leather

More looks from the Spring 2025 collection below. You can also check out the complete fashion show in the video at the end of this feature.

You can shop for the current MM6 Maison Margiela collection at Farfetch women/men, Cettire, and at Shopbop.

denim shorts

The post MM6 Maison Margiela Spring 2025 – Destroyed! first appeared on Denimology.

DENIM and PATCHES sourced this post originally published on this site

DL1961 – Fall Is All About Leather!

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Dl`96`

Unbelievable – where did summer go? Seems like it’s over before it really began 🙁

But the good news is that with fall in full swing, there’s no better time than right now to renew our wardrobe. During the hot summer months we are all about dressing casual, light, and easy. On the other hand, fall and winter are about “let’s get dressed for real”!

And nothing more classy and stylish than some great leather pieces. Leather is forever, classic, You can never go wrong by investing in any kind of leather clothing. Be it a jacket, pants, or a skirt. You will be able to wear them year after year. Actually, the more you wear them, the better they will look. Just like what we love most about denim. That authentic vintage kind of look.

DL1961’s Fall 2024 collection includes a variety of leather pieces that maintain the brand’s focus on sustainability and stylish, durable fabrics. The collection features structured leather jackets, skirts, and outerwear made with low-stretch, vintage-inspired materials. The styles showcase a sleek, timeless design, fitting seamlessly with the collection’s denim offerings. DL1961’s emphasis on sustainable practices also shines through in their production methods, making these leather items both eco-conscious and fashion-forward.

Dl1961

“We invest in high caliber, authentic leather to craft our pieces with a commitment to utilize our stock with minimal waste and much less harm to the planet than faux leather qualities,” is what the DL guys tell us about their leather capsule.

Check out some of their key styles below. The leather capsule is available to buy right now on the DL1961 website.

The post DL1961 – Fall Is All About Leather! first appeared on Denimology.

DENIM and PATCHES sourced this post originally published on this site

Slim Pickings: The Best of Slim-Fitting Selvedge Jeans

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All products are hand-picked by us. When you buy through our links, we may earn a commission.

Perfect-Fitting Jeans that Also Fade Beautifully? These Pairs Should Be at the Top of Your List!

About once a year, I clean out my closet. I unfold all my jeans and lay them on top of each other. The last time I did this, I noticed a theme. The denims and details were all very different, but the fits (especially the ones I’ve worn the most) were nearly all the same—all slim with a low or medium rise. 

There are very good reasons for this. Slim straights sit comfortably between wider-legged and skinnier fits, which makes them highly trend-resistant. Fashion might be pulling the crowd towards one end of the spectrum or the other, but slim-fitting pairs coast through the middle zone. They never go out of style, and they look great with just about everything.

Of course, your body shape plays into this. What brands call a slim fit will be skin tight for some and baggy for others. All off-the-rack pairs have been designed for a specific range of body shapes. If you fall outside of that range, you might need to look at wider or narrower fits to get the desired effect. 

Not sure which fit fits you best? Start your hunt with our jeans fit guide.

The pairs below (many of which we own ourselves) are the absolute cream of the slim-fitting crop. If you’re in the market for a new pair and want something trend-resistant and primed for fades, this list is the absolute best place to start.

Because slim-fitting jeans are most comfortable in lighter denims, we’ve opted for middleweight denims throughout this list. If you prefer heavier denims, some of the pairs featured below will be available in considerably heavier versions.

Iron Heart 777-142 (14 oz.)

Iron Heart’s slim-tapered cut (one of the brand’s most popular fits) charts a comfortable middle course between their super-slim 555 cut and their straight 634 cut. Following the line of the leg, they taper as they fall towards the cuff, but not so much that they hug the ankle.

Bryan IHxSJF-777-142 jeans, new vs. some 8 months of wear

The 14 oz. selvedge is the lightest denim in Iron Heart’s line-up. It’s remarkably comfortable, and, with daily wear, you can expect to see your pair fade quite quickly. You don’t need to work construction or ride motorcycles to bring the absolute best out of this denim. 

This denim produces beautiful contrasts, but if you want those thick combs and whiskers, head up the scale with the brand’s signature 21 oz. selvedge or their superheavyweight XHS. 

GET A PAIR OF IRON HEART 777 JEANS HERE

Tellason John Graham Mellor

Proudly made in San Francisco from Japanese denim, Tellason’s slim straight fit, John Graham Mellor, borrows the name of the lead singer of the Clash (better known by his stage name of Joe Strummer).

The 16.5 oz. selvedge was milled for the brand by Kaihara Mills in Japan. Tellason once used America’s Cone Mills denim for their pairs, but they were forced to look across the Pacific when the legendary mill, who supplied Levi’s during their most iconic years, closed its doors for good.

Fit pics from Garmentory

The no-nonsense pair have been behind some legendary fades over the years. Slim through the thighs and around the knees, you can expect them to produce beautiful whiskers and combs if pushed hard enough.

BUY A PAIR OF SLIM FIT TELLASON JEANS HERE

Samurai S0511XXII Otokogi (15 oz.)

In the wide, wide world of Samurai fits, one slim-fitting pair rules them all. The 511 features a snug top block and thighs and a pronounced taper from thigh to cuff. For those with average-sized legs, the fit is a guaranteed winner.

For the best fade potential, the 19 oz. Kiwami Selvedge is a natural choice, but for the combination of fades and comfort, the one-washed 15 oz. Otokogi Selvedge, made from short-fibred Texas cotton, offers the best of both worlds.

Finished off with iron buttons and a sheep-leather patch, the pair features all the hallmarks of great construction that Samurai are known for. Thanks to the factory wash, you can expect this pair to stretch a little more than it will shrink.

BUY THE S0511XXII JEANS AT FRANKLIN & POE

Big John Rare 009 (15.5 oz.)

Way back in 1980, Big John started working on a selvedge denim that was dyed with synthetic indigo but would fade like natural indigo. The result was their RARE selvedge, which remained one of Japan’s best-kept secrets until faders in the West started to get wind of it.

Bryan’s worn-in pair of Rare 009

The unsanforized denim can be found in two of the brand’s signature fits: the generously cut 008 and the slim-fitting 009.

Dripping with details like deerskin-backed rivets and buttons, wrench-proof construction to counteract leg twist, and an indigo-dyed patch, RARE pairs are marvels of engineering and some of the best bang-for-buck pairs on the market.

For newcomers, there’s no better starter pair. Fast-fading and impeccably cut, the Rare 009 can turn rookies into full-fledged enthusiasts in a heartbeat. Be aware, though, that the unsanforized denim will shrink 5-10% when introduced to water. Remember this when selecting your size.

SHOP BIG JOHN RARE JEANS AT HINOYA

To learn more about these jeans, visit our in-depth review of them here.

Strike Gold 2105 (17 oz.)

Best known for their crisp and slubby denims, Strike Gold engineer their pairs with fades front of mind. While most brands use poly-core thread for their arcuates, Strike Gold use cotton thread, knowing that it will break down with wear. 

The real star here is the 17 oz. brown-wefted denim. As the pair fades, the brown weft yarns begin to fleck the surface. The combination of indigo and brown leads to dirty fades that demand attention.

The 2105 is quite slim through the thighs and the top block, so, for those with some meat on their bones, you’ll want to check the hip and thigh measurements carefully. For those unfamiliar with unsanforized denim, stick with the one-wash version. 

PICK UP A PAIR OF STRIKE GOLDS AT REDCAST

Benzak B-01 (15.5 oz.)

The least expensive pair on this list, this pair would be a bargain at just about any price. Lennaert, Benzak’s founder, was a denim forum regular until he started his own brand, which he still runs out of a small studio in Amsterdam.

Benzak offers many denim options in the B-01, including the 15.5 Kojima (faded) and the 14 oz. black selvedge

With nearly imperceptible details like the hidden coin pocket and the gracefully curved top block, Benzak’s pairs slide on easily and move easily through polished and rugged spaces. They’re a great entry point for newcomers, but they are just as good for experienced denimheads who want a lot of bang for their buck.

This pair, made from 15.5 oz. selvedge milled in Kojima, are about as unfussy as it gets. Just a great slim-fitting pair primed for brilliant fades.

GET YOUR SLIM-FITTING BENZAK JEANS HERE

Flat Head 3009 Slim Straight (14.5 oz.)

If you’re looking for a slim-fitting pair that works well with slip-on boots, Flat Head has got your number. Slim through the thighs and top block, the 3009 tapers subtly from the knee, terminating in a generous opening that can easily slip over your boots.

The brand’s 14.5 oz. Pioneer Selvedge is prized for its trademark vertical texture and crisp hand-feel. Once regarded as one of the best fade foundations around, the denim is as good as it has ever been.

The one-washed selvedge will not shrink when washed. No need to wash before wearing. Just jump in and start fading! Hold off on that first wash until you’ve got them good and dirty. 

SHOP FLAT HEAD’S 3009 JEANS AT FRANKLIN & POE

Stevenson Big Sur (14 oz.)

With immediately recognizable curved back pockets, Stevenson’s Big Sur will be a great choice for those who want their pairs to stand out in a crowd (even when everybody in that crowd is wearing selvedge denim). 

The 14 oz. selvedge, made from long-staple American cotton, was milled in Japan by Nihon Mempu. Any time you see their name in a product listing, you can be sure that the brand has not cut any corners. They produce peerless selvedge for premium selvedge brands.

With leather-backed buttons and angled belt loops, this pair has a ton of unique touches inside and out. They’ve been sanforized, so shrinkage should be minimal. 

BUY THE BIG SUR JEANS AT REDCAST HERITAGE

Realign Slim Sakura (14 oz.)

An inspiration for folks like us who write about denim, Robin turned his passion for well-made selvedge into a line of jeans that showcase his attention to detail. The result of a collaboration between Robin and Japan Blue, Realign combines European styling and Japanese precision.

Realign’s Slim Sakura features a low rise, slim thighs, and a pronounced taper. The result is a clearly contemporary pair with exceptionally clean finishing and sparkling details. The beautiful indigo arcuates are nearly invisible, but they will become more apparent as the pair fades.

The sanforized denim (called Deadstock Blue) is a reproduction of a roll of deadstock selvedge found languishing on a shelf somewhere in the Collect Mills warehouse. It’s a perfect recreation of the denim that helped put Japanese selvedge on the map in the early aughts. 

PICK UP A PAIR OF SLIM FIT REALIGN JEANS HERE

Full Count 1108W (13.7 oz.)

An excellent choice for those with meatier thighs, Full Count’s 1108W walks the line between classic straights and slim straights. If you either need or want a little more room in the top block or the thighs, put these at the top of your list.

Fit pics from Denimio

The 13.7 oz. selvedge has been milled in Japan from Zimbabwe cotton. Full Count were the first to introduce cotton from the African nation to Japanese denim, and dozens of other brands have followed their example—and for very good reason.

Soft and supple after only a few wears, this denim can be a welcome treat for those accustomed to heavier stiffer selvedge. At the same time, it’s also an excellent bridge into the world of well-made Japanese selvedge for newcomers. 

GET YOUR FULL COUNT JEANS AT BROOKLYN CLOTHING CO.

Pure Blue Japan SLB-005 (16.5 oz.)

One of the first brands to push the envelope in terms of beautifully textured denims, Pure Blue Japan still produce some of the scene’s finest slubby denims, and this one is no exception.

Tipping the scales at 16.5 oz., the heavy middleweight selvedge has a beautifully irregular surface. The closer you get to it, the more there is to appreciate. The more you wear it, the more the extent of their weaving and dyeing arts become apparent. 

The denim is unsanforized, but it has been washed once in the factory, so you can expect very little shrinkage. Ready to start wearing the moment they arrive. 

BUY THESE PBJ JEANS AT REDCAST HERITAGE

Rogue Territory SK (15.25 oz.)

These days, RGT is best known for their Tan Ridgeline Supply Jacket, worn so well by Daniel Craig in his last outing as James Bond, but the brand’s long been a favourite of ours for their jeans, which feature what we think are among the best-looking back pockets in the game.

Made in America to exacting standards from a proprietary denim milled for the brand in Japan, Rogue Territory’s SKs (the SK is short for “skinny”) leave enough breathing room to qualify, in our books, as a slim fit—especially when worn by slender gents.

Fit pics from RGT

The simple looped arcuate and the hidden pen pocket show the brand’s light touch and utilitarian designs in full flight, and the pair have produced some brilliant fades. The denim is sanforized, so don’t expect any shrinkage.

GET THESE RGT JEANS AT BROOKLYN CLOTHING CO.

Looking For Something Else?

If none of these pairs get you excited, perhaps it’s time to introduce a new fit into your repertoire. Check out our other raw denim guides here. 

For the latest on what we’re wearing and watching, subscribe to the Denimhunters newsletter here.   

The post Slim Pickings: The Best of Slim-Fitting Selvedge Jeans appeared first on Denimhunters.

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Gustin Time: The Selvedge Brand Worth Waiting For

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Gustin’s Crowdsourcing Model Rewards the Patience of Slow-Fashion Denimheads

The selvedge scene bulges at the seams with folks (like us) who understand that the best things in life (like that perfect pair of jeans) are worth waiting for. The folks at Gustin have built their business model around this principle, catering to a crowd that appreciates delayed forms of gratification.

Gustin started in 2005 as a boutique denim brand, but transitioned to a direct-to-consumer model in 2013 with their first Kickstarter campaign. Though the brand has gathered steam (and armloads of customers) since then, they have stuck with their crowdsourcing approach for more than a decade now.

Gustin founders Josh Gustin (left) and Stephen Powell (right)

How Gustin’s Crowdsourcing Model Works

Each new Gustin release is treated like an opportunity to invest. If the campaign gets enough backers, you’ll receive your piece as soon as it makes its way through the production schedule. Gustin won’t charge your credit card until production begins, and if the campaign doesn’t get enough support, they simply won’t charge you. 

This approach encourages an almost unheard-of degree of creativity and risk-taking on the part of the brand, and, while not everything makes it to production, most campaigns are successful. With each successful campaign, customers are getting something they’ve had a hand in producing.

Hate waiting? Gustin has a Featured Stock section on their website, where you’ll find some of their most popular pairs. Only slightly more expensive than backing a campaign, this is the best way to get into a pair of Gustins in a hurry.

Pick of the Litter: Our Favourite Gustin Denims

Regardless of the business model and the price point, what it comes down to at the end of the day are two things: the fits and the selvedge denims.

While Gustin is constantly introducing new denims through its campaigns, some of them have returned over and over again over the years.

They’ve been the backbone of, in some cases, dozens of successful campaigns—as popular with newcomers as they are with returning customers. These are our favourites.

Denim #1: Okayama Standard

Tipping the scales at a modest 14.5 oz., this selvedge milled in Japan has been one of Gustin’s flag bearers since its first campaign. Deep indigo tones give way to a soft indigo tone punctuated with vertical texture.

Its popularity snowballed as well-worn examples began to show just how much fade potential you can expect from this selvedge. Depending how you wash and wear this pair, it will be a great candidate for either vintage or high-contrast fades.

GET THE OKAYAMA STANDARD DENIM HERE

Denim #2: 1968 Cone Mills

Once the pride of North Carolina, Cone Mills, the now-defunct but still-legendary American selvedge mill, produced denim for Levi’s during their most iconic years. When they closed their doors in 2017, Gustin snatched up as many rolls of the stuff as they had space for.

This makes Gustin’s 1968 a true-blue icon of American denim and manufacturing. You’ll be hard pressed to find a better pair at this price point. There’s no better entry point to the selvedge scene for budget-conscious newcomers.  

ORDER A PAIR OF GUSTIN’S CONE SELVEDGE HERE

Denim #3: Super Heavy Slub

Most of Gustin’s denims fall into either the lightweight or middleweight category, but they occasionally dip their toe into the deep end of the pool with heavyweights like this one. A fan favourite, this will be the best choice for those who want serious texture.

The Super Heavy Slub denim when new …
… and worn

Beautiful faded examples have turned a lot of heads in the direction of this denim, so campaigns are usually fully backed quite quickly. If you want to get these on your legs, this is not one to sit on.

GO HEAVY WITH THE SUPER HEAVY SLUB DENIM

Denim #4: Natural Indigo

Denims dyed with natural indigo are the backbone of some of the selvedge world’s hottest releases. Compared to synthetic indigo (the industry standard), natural indigo produces more vibrant blue tones and more muted contrasts.

The Natural Indigo denim starts very dark and has great potential for high contrast fades

Gustin’s 14 oz. Natural Indigo denim is one of the more expensive denims in their line-up, but it’s still dramatically less expensive than natural indigo pairs from competing brands. If you’re keen to get back to nature and its vivid blues, draw a big circle around this one. 

BUY A PAIR OF GUSTIN NATURAL INDIGO JEANS HERE

Denim #5: The Zimbabwe

Prized for its long staples, Zimbabwe’s cotton has been a popular choice for some of our favourite selvedge brands. Durable and comfortable, denims made with Zimbabwe cotton are a great choice for those looking for easy break-in periods and beautiful fades.

You pay a bit of a premium for the top-shelf cotton, but, if this is your first experience with Zimbabwe cotton, you’ll quickly see why. Butter soft on the outside, crisp on the outside, this one will be much easier to put on than to take off again. Will rocket to the top of your rotation.

GET GUSTIN’S ‘THE ZIMBABWE’ DENIMS HERE

We’ve only just scratched the surface with these five denims. Gustin’s calling card has long been their willingness to experiment—something you’ll see on full display in their active campaigns, which always feature a few wildly experimental wildcards.

Trim Trio: Gustin’s Trademark Fits

While Gustin frequently experiments with colourful and wildly textured denims, they don’t try to rock the boat with their fits.

They’ve got three fits, Straight, Slim, and Skinny, all of which have been tested and approved by the Gustin faithful.

And here’s another upside to the crowdsourcing model; you can have any denim you want in any of the three fits! Sizes range from 29 to 40, including the rare size 35 and the super rare size 37—in fact, we don’t know of any other brand that offers a size 37!

Gustin’s Slim Fit

Our favourite fit of the bunch is Gustin’s Slim Fit. Stylishly adaptable and flattering on most frames, it’s that ideal middle-of-the-road cut that’s in that Goldilocks Zone—neither too much, nor too little.

With a lower rise than the Straight Fit and a gradual taper through the thighs and calves, this will be a great choice for those with trimmer figures.

It will accommodate slightly larger gentlemen, but it will be an out-of-the-park homerun for those with athletic builds.

Will pair nicely with denim westerns, heavy flannels, leather jackets, or Type IIIs. For footwear, the opening isn’t large enough to accommodate wide-shaft slip-ons like engineer boots. Lace-up boots will be a better choice.

Gustin’s Straight Fit

A close runner-up is Gustin’s Straight Fit, which has a lot in common with some of the selvedge scene’s most popular straight-cut jeans. If comfort is key for you, this fit will provide room to spare for most figures. 

With a rise slightly higher than you’ll find on the Slim or Skinny Fits, these will be the best choice for those with larger thighs or extremely muscular frames.

The fit narrows slightly as it travels down the thigh, but then falls straight down from the knees to the cuff. A true classic straight cut. 

Will pair brilliantly with comfortable above-the-belt classics like chambray or denim work shirts, Type I or Type II denim jackets, or sweatshirts/hoodies. Below the cuff, the pair will pair brilliantly with either slip-on or lace-up boots.

Gustin’s Skinny Fit

For younger faders (or for the young at heart), the Skinny Fit trims almost all of the remaining fat off of the Slim Fit. They’ve found a nice balancing point with this one. It’s definitely slim, but it doesn’t look painted on.

The rise is the same as the Slim Fit, but the taper is more aggressive, following the natural shape of slim or well-toned legs.

The folks at Gustin seem to understand that this is not an ideal pair for big fellas. While the Straight and Slim Fits are available in size 40, the Skinny Fit’s size range ends at 38.

The classic, white tee will be the perfect choice with this cut, with trim-fitting button-ups running a close second. Avoid oversized pieces (particularly outerwear) unless you want to look like a popsicle. Finish it off with a pair of sneakers, penny loafers, or lace-up boots.

Make sure you measure twice!

Gustin does not use vanity sizing, so be sure to read the size charts carefully. You may need to size up.

Their denims are mostly sanforized, so you can expect them to stretch a little more than they shrink. We’d recommend ordering for a snug fit.

How Gustin Makes Patience a Virtue

The made-to-order aspect of Gustin’s campaign approach to making and selling jeans requires a little patience, but this patience is rewarded. The style is timeless, the craftsmanship exceptional, and if you remain patient with the piece when it arrives (and wear it into the ground), you’ll be rewarded again with beautiful fades.

The Natural Indigo
The Okayama Standard

This isn’t the only reward. Gustin’s model helps them avoid overproduction and the waste that comes with it. They sell nearly every piece they produce, and this means that customers don’t have to pay more to help the brand cover the costs of unsold products.

It’s a streamlined operation, with an equally aerodynamic price point. Most Gustin pairs will set you back around half of what you can expect to pay for comparable pairs from comparable Made-in-America brands.

Explore Gustin’s Wild Side

Visit Gustin’s website to back your favourite campaigns or order from the Featured Stock today.

For more stories like this one, make sure you’re subscribed to our newsletter.

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Jeans and Confidence: Dressing for Success in Your Everyday Routine

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Jeans and Confidence: Dressing for Success in Your Everyday Routine

Jeans and Confidence: Dressing for Success in Your Everyday Routine In a world where first impressions matter, dressing plays a crucial role in shaping how we are perceived by others and how we perceive ourselves. Whether you’re heading to the office, meeting friends for lunch, or running errands, the right…

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Cutting Weight: SOSO’s Saying Goodbye to a Super Heavyweight

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SOSO’s 25 oz. Black UBS Selvedge Will Be Extinct—They’re Saying Goodbye With a Deep Discount

Around a year ago, I decided to finally bite the bullet and try a black pair of jeans. I reached out to the guys at SOSO, and they suggested that I try what was, at that time, their brand-new 25 oz. Ultimate Black Selvedge.

They landed with a resounding thud on my doorstep a few weeks later, and I immediately started kicking myself for not adding a black pair to my collection sooner. They paired perfectly with my peacoat, and, frankly, with just about everything else I wore them with.

The SOSO Brothers are down to their last roll of the Ultimate Black Selvedge. There won’t be any more, so they’re saying goodbye to the super heavyweight with a very deep end-of-the-roll discount.

Until it’s all gone, they’ve marked the price for UBS jeans or jackets down from $299 to $199.

It’s a great opportunity to get into a black superheavyweight made from Australian cotton for not a lot of dough.

Feel the Power of the Dark Side

The Dark Side is calling! Grab a pair of jeans or a jacket from SOSO before the UBS goes extinct. 

It’s first come, first served. If you’ve been considering adding something black and seriously heavy to your collection, get in line for a heaping helping of the Ultimate Black Selvedge! 

GET THE LAST ULTIMATE BLACK SELVEDGE HERE

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Loving Handz: The New Selvedge Brand With an Inclusive Vision 

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Contributing Indigo Invitational sponsors can opt for coverage here on Denimhunters. To enquire about sponsorship and advertising opportunities, contact us here.

Meet the Gender-Fluid Selvedge Brand Trying To Bring Heritage Denim into the 21st Century

To say that we’ve never covered an origin story quite like this one would be a massive understatement. Handz, founded by Franco-German fashion designer and consultant Tilmann Wröbel and second-generation Greek denim tailor Themis Goudroubis, is the product of more than 60 years of industry experience between the two.

Tilmann Wröbel and Themis Goudroubis

Fronting the brand is Tilmann Wröbel, who was immersed in street-level European subcultures before many of us were even born. In his youth, Tilmann was part of a renegade group of skateboarders who pioneered the sport in the ‘70s, first in Germany and then in France. 

A lover of board sports of every variety, Tilmann would go on to found France’s first indoor skatepark in 1990 and has served on the board of the French Skateboarding Federation since 1988, refereeing competitions and encouraging the growth of board sports in France.  

Tilmann has had tricks up his sleeve since the ’70s

Clothing was a big part of the burgeoning street culture, and Tilmann displayed an early aptitude, not just with the boards, but also with the style.

He saw in fashion a chance to express an inner feeling, and he followed this interest into the fashion industry, training in fashion design at the Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne in Paris. 

Before his studies were even finished, he had won prestigious awards and was working with haute couture brands and designers including Christian Dior, André Courrèges, and Nina Ricci, learning the finer points of haute couture design.  

From haute couture to dreadlocks

He describes the world of haute couture as an ivory tower, where, especially in the late ‘80s, pedigree and connections carried tremendous, stifling weight. Tilmann, who would arrive at the studios riding a skateboard, was clearly from another world.

There were some in the industry who recognised that Tilmann’s outsider status made him an invaluable asset—especially when those brands wanted to address the street-level style world that Tilmann moved through so naturally. 

This helped Tilmann establish himself as one of Europe’s premier fashion designers and creative directors for brands that catered to subcultures. He designed apparel ranges for legendary skateboarding brands like Etnies (then in its infancy) and Quiksilver, and during his time with the latter, he developed selvedge lines for Quiksilver, Roxy, Gotcha, and DC Shoes.

The denim industry has essentially been his home ever since. As a consultant and designer, he has worked with or for a long list of European, Japanese, and American brands including Japan Blue Ltd., Lee Cooper, Asphalte, Zadig & Voltaire, just to name a few. Over the next nearly four decades, he left an indelible mark on the industry. 

Joining Handz: Combining Couture and Craftsmanship

In 2016, Tilmann met Themis Goudroubis, one of Greece’s premier denim craftsmen. The two of them started discussing a new project that would combine their strengths. 

Both had a strong grounding in traditional tailoring, but both were also denimheads through and through. They wanted to build a bridge connecting the very separate worlds of heritage denim and high fashion.

On either side of the divide, the two worlds of denim seemed to be missing something. On the couture side, there was not enough appreciation for the kind of artisanship Japanese denim mills and sewing factories have brought to the industry. 

With few exceptions, couture denims are flat and lifeless, with very little of the texture and character we’ve come to appreciate in Japanese selvedge. Rather than trying to produce the best-possible version of a widely recognised form, couture labels have to be perpetually on the cutting edge. Artisan denim is outside of their scope. 

On the other side, the world of heritage denim has long been deeply conservative. They have elevated workwear to an art form, but they address a narrow audience. Tilmann and Themis want to build a new brand that addresses these deficits and combines the strengths of both worlds.

Made in Greece by loving hands

The result is Handz Jeans, which they founded in 2022. Anything but average, they’re doing things very differently. With an equal measure of style and substance, they’ve built a sturdy bridge connecting the very different worlds of high fashion and workwear.

Footloose and Gender-Free

Right from their first collection, what immediately set Handz apart from other brands was their clear attempt to reach an underserved subset of selvedge consumers: women.

Female faders or denim enthusiasts frequently bemoan the lack of great pairs designed for women’s bodies—and for very good reason.

Only a small handful of selvedge brands offer anything for women, and an even smaller number of these have designed fits from the ground-up specifically for female selvedge enthusiasts. This represents a significant barrier to entry for half the population. 

So many potential newcomers to the world of selvedge encounter this barrier.

Either male, female, or something in between, they don’t fit into the mould of straight, slim, or tapered cuts, so they feel excluded in a scene that, otherwise, prides itself on being broadly inclusive.

Tilmann and Themis have attempted to remedy this with an even-handed emphasis on men, women, and those who stake their tents somewhere between these two camps.

You can see this play out on their website, where products are modelled sometimes by men, sometimes by women. It’s refreshing.

Tilmann emphasises that Handz jeans are not “unisex”. In the denim world, that usually means generously cut straight fits that can be worn by either gender. What they’ve tried to do with Handz is to create, not a unisex brand, but a gender-fluid one.

Each different size has been carefully designed with a particular shape (or range of shapes) in mind. As the size grows, the pattern changes as well, changing gradually from female shapes in smaller sizes (with more room for hips and thighs) to straighter masculine shapes in larger sizes. 

The resulting pairs can be broken into a few categories:  

  • Sizes 26-28: Designed for women
  • Sizes 29-30: Designed for a combination of men and women
  • Size 31: Gender fluid
  • Sizes 32-34: Becoming more masculine, but will still work on many women
  • Sizes 35-36: Designed for men

These categories apply to all three of their gender-fluid fits: Stapled, a straight fit based on popular cuts from the late 1940s; Middled, a modern tapered cut with a low to medium rise; and Slacked, a tapered modern interpretation of a vintage fishtail workwear slack.  

Middled
Stapled
Slacked
Handz three fits modelled by guys and gals

Handz’s gender fluidity is only possible thanks to Tilmann and Themis’s decades of experience tinkering with patterns. They’re not simply creating a usable pattern and then extrapolating it. They’re treating each new size as a distinct pattern for a distinct body type. 

You can see some of this pattern-making magic at work in the two pairs that are being worn in this year’s Indigo Invitational. Damon and Inda are both wearing the same Stapled fit, but in very different sizes. Damon is a W38, Inda is a W29.

Same fit in different sizes and genders

If you’ve ever felt as though the selvedge scene and its narrow range of classic and contemporary fits doesn’t speak directly to you, Handz may be the brand you’ve been waiting for. 

Details Make the Difference

Tilmann and Themis were true-blue denimheads long before they started Handz, and they understand that the path to the selvedge enthusiast’s heart is paved with details. In the world of couture denim, these details are less important than the label. 

For a new label in the world of heritage denim, this is reversed. The badge only becomes meaningful when it brings with it an assurance that the attention to detail will be there, and Handz is showing that they fully understand this.

This starts with the denim fabrications they use. All of them have been milled from rope-dyed indigo yarns in Japan on wooden shuttle looms. Tilmann’s work frequently brought him to Japan, and he sources each denim from some of the small-batch denim artisans that he encountered during his travels there. 

Milled in Japan and sewn in Europe

All of their denims are 100% cotton. This is atypical for denim brands that try to entice women into the world of selvedge.

Says Tilmann, “We had to choose between the beauty of 100% cotton denim and the compromises of stretch denim. Based on what we’ve heard from female customers, we definitely made the right choice.” 

Tilmann understands that 100% cotton jeans will not accommodate the complete spectrum of human shapes and sizes. He’s not trying to be all things to all people, though. He’s trying to create a more gender-inclusive space inside the world of selvedge denim, and Handz’s female customers are happy to find in Handz the fits that they’ve been looking for.  

While each pair is crammed with fine finishing touches like bias belt loops and hems chain stitched with a Union Special machine, there is one key difference that gives Handz pairs a unique and sleek look when compared to other heritage brands.

Instead of using contrasting straw- or tobacco-coloured thread, they have opted for dark blue thread throughout their line. When the jeans are brand new, the stitching is practically invisible. As they age, this conscious design choice becomes a more conspicuous one..

Each pair is crafted in house by Themis and his small team of denim tailors. Tilmann takes care of the design and selects the denims; Themis handles the production. It’s a true maker brand, with both of the principals deeply involved in every stage of production. 

Dark blue threads become conspicuous as the denim fades

A few other details we’ve been extremely impressed with: 

  • 100% Copper Hardware
  • Chain Stitched Hems and Waistbands
  • Lined Back Pockets
  • Heavy Duty Cotton Twill Pocket Bags
  • Peekaboo Selvedge Fifth Pocket
  • Bias C/B Belt Loops

They’re doing so many of the little things right. When details like these are stacked on top of fits like Tilmann and Themis can produce, the result is bound to impress. It’s exceptionally rare to see a new brand doing pairs with this combination of flair and precision.

Shared Passions and Values: Handz and the Indigo Invitational

For the past few years, the Indigo Invitational has relied on the support of selvedge brands, who help keep the competition entirely free of charge for all competitors. Most brands who choose to support are well established in the scene. Handz is a little different.

They’re a brand-new name with a very small marketing budget, but they see support of the competition as an ideal way to introduce themselves to the fading scene and its passionate denimheads. They also see the competition as the ultimate testing ground and stress test for their pairs.

When one of their pairs in the competition was only a few weeks old, the top button sheared into two pieces. Upon investigating, it turned out that their hardware supplier had been using an inferior-grade copper. They’re grateful that one of our competitors helped them identify an issue, and they’ve since rectified it.

The interior of each pair is sprayed with a specially developed Polygene spray, which has been shown in the lab to reduce odours and bacteria. This has helped the Handz competitors extend the period between washes considerably. 

Damon’s pair after 8 months

Damon (aka @the.grateful.guy), a selvedge denim newcomer, credits Handz with turning him into a full-fledged denim addict.

His 14 oz. unsanforized pair of Stapled took time to open up for him, but they started accelerating after around six months of wear. He loves how they have retained their shape, even after months on end of near-daily wear.

Inda’s ripped and faded pair of Handz

Inda (aka @inda.kalivoda) has had a similar experience with the same pair. She managed to coax bright indigo tones and slubby texture to the surface in just a few months, and she loves the indigo topstitching, which makes the pair easy to wear at the office. She’s considering the Handz Wildered (a wide-legged ladies fit) for the next Invitational.

Some of the Handz jeans worn in this year’s Indigo Invitational may one day end up in the brand’s unique upcycling initiative. After three years with your pair, you can send them back to Handz for a 50% discount on your next Handz pair.

The loved pairs are then turned into beautiful hand-stitched sashiko artworks, so the more damage the wearer has done over the years, the better. It’s a truly circular initiative, combining artistry, sustainability, and style.  

A showcase of the brand’s stitching skills

We find it intensely difficult to part with the pairs that we’ve fully faded—even after they’ve become almost entirely unwearable—but this initiative ensures that our fading efforts lead somewhere. In their expert hands, Handz pairs can become the backbone for works of denim art. 

The initiative is an extension of Tilmann and Themis’s shared passion for well-worn workwear, and it’s that passion that brought them to us. They’ve been an exemplary competition partner, and they’ve shown over and over again that they share our values and our passions. 

Like them, we like to see well-made products pushed to or beyond their breaking points. To take them to this point, we need to love them enough to wear them every day. They need to be worthy of this love, and Handz pairs, made with pairs of loving hands, are definitely worthy. 

Hands Holding Handz

You can buy Handz jeans here. If you’re not in the market for a new pair at the moment, we’re encouraging you to show your support for what Tilmann and Themis are doing by following them on Instagram here and engaging with their brand with either a comment or a share. 

The post Loving Handz: The New Selvedge Brand With an Inclusive Vision  appeared first on Denimhunters.

DENIM and PATCHES sourced this post originally published on this site