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Everything You Need to Know About Raw Denim Jeans

January 30, 2026 by DENIMandPATCHES

Raw denim – what does that even mean? It’s a recent movement showing appreciation for jeans of yesteryears.

Raw denim is denim that has not been altered when it comes off the loom. This means it isn’t washed, treated, or anything thing else that could alter the original appearance.

History of Denim

Denim and the creation of jeans have a rich history and they have always been about the people who wear them. In fact, as far as 1870, denim has been a part of fashion.

Latvian immigrant Jacob Davis was a tailor and he developed a new way to secure stress points in jeans. He used copper rivets, which you can still see in modern jeans, surrounding the pockets.

Miners who mostly wore denim were excited by the prospect of more durable jeans. Eventually Davis reached out to his fabric supplier, Levi Strauss, and they went into business together. They got a patent in 1883 for riveted jeans, which is what we know as jeans today.

It wasn’t until the 1920s that denim began to be more than work pants, it then became the official uniform for Hollywood cowboys.

While feeling like a costume, it exposed denim to the working class.

After WWII jeans became a symbol of counter culture and rebels everywhere donned jeans. Which once again, Hollywood showed in its movies. In the 1970s and 80s is when jeans became a popular staple for everyone and that’s when the artificial distressing movement by big suppliers happened.

Interestingly, during that same period, Japanese denim enthusiasts were collecting old American jeans. They were disappointed with the new manufacturing. They felt that the classic brands lost their way. They started to collect old jeans and created their own raw denim.

7 Things That Are Good to Know About Raw Denim

1. Why People Like It So Much

all you need to know about raw denim
Image via The Idle Man

One of the biggest reasons why people like raw denim so much is that they develop, and age based on what you do in them and to them.

In a sense they become completely customizable to you and your lifestyle. A unique look that a store can’t replicate.

The dark dye will start to fade away in certain spots, depending on how you move. Eventually, even the white cotton core of the denim will show as the yarn wears out. You will end up with a custom fade that is entirely your own.

2. Greater Durability

Since the fabric hasn’t been artificially altered in any way, you get the full life of the fabric. That’s why vintage jeans have lasted for so long.

3. Raw Denim is more Eco and Labor Friendly

It takes a lot of water to grow enough cotton for jeans, but it takes even more for distressing them. It can take up 42 liters per pair of jeans.

Raw jeans also don’t expose workers to harmful chemicals that are often used to distress and wash denim.

4. Greater Value for Your Dollar

Even though raw denim can be more expensive, many wearers of them wear them every day for months or even a year. You’ll get your money’s worth.

5. What Does Selvedge Mean

The term selvedge is talking about the little color lines that you see on the inside of jeans. It is “self-edged” by a shuttle loom and is meant to keep everything from unraveling. Though don’t assume that because it’s selvedge denim it’s raw, any fabric can be woven with it.

6. What is Sanforization

Sanforiztion is the act of steaming and heating that preshrinks fabric before its cut and sewn into jeans. You will find this in most fabrics, even raw jeans.

Unsanforized denim, often called shrink to fit, will shrink anywhere from around 5 to 10 percent the first time it’s washed. Be aware of that if you buy them unsanforized.

7. How to Care for Raw Denim

How to handwash raw jeans
Image via Rope Dye

With raw denim the longer you go without washing the better. The fade that happens naturally does better when the jeans aren’t washed.

So how do you clean them? Some people put their jeans in the freezer to kill any odor causing bacteria, but it’s not proven whether or not it really works.

So, it might best to wash them when you want to. You can use a natural soap or Woolite. Make sure to let it dry naturally.

Final Thoughts on Raw Denim Jeans

There are a lot reasons why you should get raw denim jeans. The complete customization is a very enticing aspect.

But they’re a lot of work, and you should keep this in mind before purchasing.

Places you can buy raw denim jeans are A.P.C. Jeans, Macy’s, and if you want classics check out flea markets.

DENIM and PATCHES sourced this post originally published on this site

Filed Under: Blog

Levi’s, Springy Jeans and Homeboy Threads Unearth the ‘Economics of the Past’ at Preface Show

January 30, 2026 by DENIMandPATCHES

Experts from the heritage brand, the vintage reseller and the workforce development non-profit discussed how vintage and resale have completed their evolution from subcultures to serious business drivers.

DENIM and PATCHES sourced this post originally published on this site

Filed Under: Blog

5 Brands That Defined My Denim Story More Than Any Other

January 30, 2026 by DENIMandPATCHES

Denimhunters is reader-supported. If you buy after clicking a link on our site, we may earn a commission.

After Fifteen Years of Writing About Denim, These Are the Jeans That’ve Influenced Me the Most

I launched Denimhunters on January 30, 2011. I didn’t have a plan—just an obsession. I read From Cowboys to Catwalks on repeat and remember thinking, “If only I could one day write a book about denim.” Five years later, Blue Blooded was published. But it all started here, with a blog post like this one.

Denimhunters became the work of my life. I’ve poured more time into this than anything else I’ve ever done. The feedback from readers, the reputation it’s earned me, the continued love from Google—that’s all something I’m incredibly thankful for. And incredibly proud of.

To celebrate this milestone, I didn’t want to release a greatest hits list or write an autobiography. I wanted to do something that’s actually useful—even for new readers. So I’ve put together a list of the five jeans brands I’ve worn the most. Combined, they tell my story and the story of Denimhunters better than anything else I could think of.

I’m not saying these are “the best,” but they’re the ones that’ve taught me the most about denim, fit, construction, history—and helped shape how I explain it. First on Denimhunters. And now also through my own brand, Weirloom.

If you’ve been here since the early days, thank you. If you’re new, welcome. Either way, this one’s for you.


Levi’s Vintage Clothing

“Museum-Worthy Jeans You Can Wear”

Levi’s Vintage Clothing is built on the blueprint the entire denim world is measured against: original Levi’s. The real thing is museum-grade now—nobody in their right mind is fading deadstock 501s. LVC exists so you can wear those classics again.

Hunting for jeans in Paris in 2012, I found this pair of deadstock redline 501

It’s where I started too. Like a lot of people, I found my way into denim through Levi’s—but LVC was the turning point. It’s where I realised jeans had history—not just culturally, but technically. That fit, fabric, stitching, pocket shape, leg twist, even the way denim shrinks—none of it was random. All of it came from somewhere. LVC helped me start learning how to read denim.

The heart of the line is, of course, the 501. Each iteration represents a different moment in (denim) history, from slimmer post-war cuts to roomier mid-century silhouettes. For many denimheads, myself included, the 1947 remains the benchmark: a perfectly balanced fit, and the XX denim that defined what selvedge should look like.

LVC top and bottom
Never not working on DH
Stopping by the former Valencia St. factory
I wore my LVC Type I jacket and 1954 501Z jeans most of the time in San Francisco on our honeymoon

The one thing you must know before buying: most LVC jeans are shrink-to-fit. They will shrink significantly after the first wash, so you need to size with intention. Consult size charts, ask how much shrinkage to expect, and choose your size based on how you want them to fit after the first few washes—not the day you unbox them.

If you want the closest possible experience to wearing an original Levi’s garment—something historically accurate that still fades beautifully—this is the place to start. Others reinterpret the past. LVC lets you wear it. And while your non-denimhead friends might “just see” a pair of Levi’s, you’ll know you’re wearing denim history.

SHOP LEVI’S VINTAGE CLOTHING HERE

You can buy Levi’s Vintage Clothing at Cultizm and Hinoya.

Other Brands That Reproduce Levi’s (Sometimes Better)

The entire Japanese denim industry was built on reproducing Levi’s. There are dozens of brands doing it well, but these are some of my personal favourites:

  • Warehouse – Covered later, but worth noting here too
  • Full Count – Subtle, soulful, and spun for comfort and fades
  • TCB – Budget-friendly, detail-obsessed, and quietly becoming legendary

Brands That Still Make Jeans in the USA (Like LVC Used To)

When I first got into Levi’s Vintage Clothing, the jeans were made in the USA—now they’re made in Japan. But if you’re looking for American-made jeans, here are some of the brands still doing it:

  • Tellason – San Francisco-made, no-nonsense and workwear driven
  • Brave Star – Budget-friendly, factory-direct, and raw to the core
  • Freenote Cloth – Refined, well-built, and deeply American

Nudie Jeans

“Creating Tomorrow’s Denimheads”

Nudie is the gateway brand for an entire generation of denimheads, including this one. They helped bring raw denim, selvedge, and the idea of breaking in your jeans into the mainstream without watering down what made it special.

Their strength has always been philosophy as much as product. From transparency and 100% organic cotton to worldwide Repair Shops that fix your jeans for free, Nudie built a culture around wearing your denim hard and keeping it alive.

These are my friend Matt Wilson’s Average Joes

For me, Nudie played a formative role. One of the first pairs of raw jeans I really committed to was a pair of Average Joes in their original Kaihara selvedge—the denim that launched the brand in 2001.

I wore them every day for five months, unwashed. When I finally washed them, the knees were already blowing out. The stiff cotton yarn had started breaking along the sharp creases I’d worn in. That was the moment I realised: there’s no single right way to break in and wash your jeans.

I’ve donated my Average Joes to Jeans School in Amsterdam—these are the only pics I have

The six-month rule is iconic, but it’s not gospel. A pre-wear soak rinse won’t ruin the denim or prevent fades—it actually helps your jeans last longer. That’s shaped how I’ve written and taught denim ever since.

Related reading: How to Wash Raw Denim (and Every Other Kind of Jeans)

Nudie’s fits have evolved over the years, but the mix of Scandinavian simplicity and rock-and-roll attitude remains constant. And while Nudie has grown beyond raw denim into a full lifestyle offering, they’ve never abandoned the idea that denim should be worn hard, repaired, and kept alive.

If you want a brand that opens the door to raw denim and still stands for something bigger, Nudie is it. They helped create yesterday’s denimheads—and they’re shaping tomorrow’s.

Other Gateway Brands That Changed How I Saw Denim

These are some of the other brands that shaped early conversations around raw denim for a global audience:

  • Edwin – Japanese heritage with global reach
  • A.P.C. – Minimalist selvedge before it was cool
  • Naked & Famous – Loud, clever, never boring

Indigofera

“The American West—Woven in Japan, Made in Europe”

Indigofera doesn’t fit into any typical category. It’s Swedish at the core, but the visual language is pure American West—sun-bleached deserts, wide horizons, worn-in leather, faded denim. You feel that atmosphere in everything they make. It’s not reproduction, and it’s not fashion.

This was the brand that challenged my assumptions about where top-shelf jeans could be made. Up until I got my first pair—more than a decade ago now—I thought serious denim could only come from one of two places: Japan or the USA. But a pair of Clints in the No. 2 denim—made in Portugal—changed that. They weren’t just good. They were exceptional.

My first Clint No. 2 denim, new vs. worn (notice the chain stitch)

Indigofera’s jeans were built like nothing else I’d worn, and they really opened my eyes. Construction was top-notch, the fit was perfectly dialled in, and the denim was unforgettable. I wore Indigofera jeans almost exclusively for several years. The only real quirk to me is that they don’t have chain-stitched hems. Indigofera has always done it differently. I’ve come to respect, even appreciate, that choice.

Their tops are just as iconic as the jeans. The Fargo and Copeland overshirts are built like jackets but easy to wear anywhere. And the blankets—made in Norway—have become collector’s items in their own right.

The Norris shirt has been with Indigofera since day 1
These pics are from 2014, shot for a feature on me in Euroman

If you want garments with real depth—pieces that reveal more the longer you live with them—Indigofera is one of the most rewarding brands out there. Quietly original, built to last, and unlike anything else.

BUY INDIGOFERA HERE

Indigofera is sold at: Franklin & Poe (US), Iron Shop Provisions (US), Blue Beach Denim (Taiwan), and Manready Mercantile (US)

Other Brands That Make Jeans in Portugal

Indigofera isn’t the only brand making truly great jeans in Portugal. Here are a few others worth knowing:

  • Weirloom – I also make my jeans in Portugal, shaped by everything I’ve learned, not least from Indigofera
  • Benzak – Amsterdam-based denim developer with a full line made in Portugal
  • Eat Dust – Dutch motorcycle-inspired denim brand with great Portuguese-made jeans
  • Livid – Began with one-man ‘made in Norway’ jeans, since grown to a fully fledged brand

Warehouse & Co.

“Vintage Accuracy Made Approachable”

Warehouse is probably the most accessible of the Osaka Five. Where other repro labels can feel niche or intense, Warehouse has always been the calm, easy way into Japanese denim: thoughtful, precise, and immediately wearable.

Of all the brands on this list, this is the one I’ve worn the least. Between the two pairs I own, I’ve probably logged eight to ten months of actual wear. But even that was enough to understand why they matter—and why they belong here. 

These are my 1003XX Warehouse jeans

Warehouse’s identity is built on the same thing they’re best known for: Banner Denim. The Shiotani brothers dissected a 1930s Levi’s banner thread by thread to recreate a 13.5 oz. cloth with the grain, slub, and softness of pre-50s selvedge. Woven on Toyoda G3 looms, it fades into gentle highs and lows rather than high-contrast streaks.

Jeans like the 1001XX (their mid-century straight) and the 1003XX (a WWII-style cut with flannel pocket bags) show the philosophy clearly: period-correct details, iron buttons, copper rivets, rayon tab, and cotton thread. That last detail is worth noting—cotton stitching is authentic, but it breaks faster than the poly-core threads most brands use.

I had to repair the seat seam
… not the prettiest job, but it’ll do
The seams have also given up on the coin pocket

Beyond jeans, Warehouse makes some of the best loopwheel tees and sweats in the scene. Clean proportions, great fabrics, everyday pieces that explain why Warehouse has such a loyal following outside Japan as well. And why Japanese denim and ‘made in Japan’ is more popular than ever.

If you want true reproduction denim without the attitude or the barrier to entry, Warehouse is the effortless starting point—rooted in vintage, easy to wear, and built with the kind of care that keeps people coming back.

SHOP WAREHOUSE JEANS HERE

Warehouse is at Lost & Found (CA), Hinoya (JP), and Clutch Café (UK).

Other Japanese Brands That Could’ve Made This List

There are a dozen brands in Japan making jeans at this level—and any one of them could’ve taken this spot, if I’d worn them. If I had to name three I could’ve just as well have picked they’d be:

  • The Flat Head – Known for fast vertical fades, high-tension denim, and razor-sharp construction
  • Sugar Cane – Great value for money. Vintage-inspired, accessibly priced, and built with zero shortcuts
  • The Real McCoy’s – The gold standard for stitch-by-stitch perfection. Uncompromising, unmatched

Iron Heart

“Heavyweight Holy Grails with Motorcycle DNA”

Iron Heart doesn’t just make heavyweight denim—they pioneered it. Designed to be tough enough for Harley riders, they pushed denim weights into uncharted territory, and made it surprisingly wearable.

There’s something undeniably appealing about heavyweight denim. But it took me years to work myself up to it. By the time I finally got my first pair—the 634S in their signature 21 oz. selvedge—I’d worn a lot of jeans (even written a book about them). But this was still a rite of passage. And once I crossed it, I didn’t look back.

21 oz. selvedge, new vs. worn for few months

That’s probably also why I’ve worn Iron Heart more than any other brand on this list. The 634 is the best-fitting pair of jeans I’ve ever worn (at least from a brand that’s not my own 😉).

The 21 oz. selvedge is soft, breathable, and surprisingly comfortable. And everything is built to last. Since that first pair in 2018, I’ve worn the 14 oz., the slubby 16 oz., two pairs of 25 oz., and even the UHR.

25 oz. extra heavy selvedge, new vs. worn hard for at least a year

Iron Heart doesn’t chase reproduction accuracy. They use poly-core sewing thread instead of all-cotton. Softly one-wash their jeans so you don’t have to deal with unpredictable shrink-to-fits. And most importantly, they design garments that work with modern wardrobes. It’s not that they ignore the past; they improve on it. 

And the brand is so much more than the denim. Their ultra-heavy flannels in hand-picked Aspero cotton are benchmarks in the scene. The N1 deck jacket is iconic. Every stitch, every fabric, every detail is overbuilt in the best possible way—designed for durability, function, and long wear without sacrificing comfort.

25 oz. selvedge, ultra-heavy flannel, and N1 deck jacket

If you want denim and jeanswear that’s seriously tough but incredibly refined, there’s nothing quite like Iron Heart.

BUY IRON HEART HERE

Iron Heart is available at: Division Road (US), Franklin & Poe (US), Brooklyn Clothing (CA), Iron Provisions (US), and of course at Iron Heart International.

Other Heavyweight Denim Brands That Push the Limits

These are some of the brands that—like Iron Heart—take denim to extremes in weight, character, and construction.

  • Samurai – High-stakes fades, bold details, and uncompromising builds
  • SOSO Brothers – The world’s heaviest custom-made jeans (they’re 33 oz., and almost outrageous!)
  • The Strike Gold – Known for vivid fades and fabric with serious personality

The Next Chapter Starts Here

I didn’t write this piece to be nostalgic. I wrote it to remind myself—and hopefully show others—that every worn-in pair of jeans carries more than just creases and fades. They carry lessons.

Fifteen years into Denimhunters that’s still what drives me. The five brands above weren’t just my favourites—they’re my teachers. They showed me how denim is made, how it wears, and how it lasts. And eventually, they helped me understand how to make jeans of my own and launch Weirloom.

There’s plenty more to say. But for now, I’ll just say this: thanks for reading. Thanks for being part of the journey. Let’s see where the next fifteen years take us.

Understand the Details That Matter

I’m Thomas, founder of Denimhunters. I write emails that go deeper into denim—how jeans are made, why details matter, and how to make better choices without the noise.

GET MY EMAILS

The post 5 Brands That Defined My Denim Story More Than Any Other appeared first on Denimhunters.

DENIM and PATCHES sourced this post originally published on this site

Filed Under: Blog

American Eagle Outfitters x Lamine Yamal

January 30, 2026 by DENIMandPATCHES

yamal

Lifestyle brand, American Eagle, has signed up with Spanish footballer, Lamine Yamal, as its global brand ambassador in a historic multi-year partnership.

Yamal is one of the most promising young football talents worldwide. The contract runs for five years starting in summer 2026 and is the first multi-year partnership of its kind for the brand.

Yamal will participate in global campaigns and limited-edition product collaborations. The signing comes with the World Cup due to take place in North and South America from June 11 to July 19, with the final being played at Metlife stadium in East Rutherford, N.J., near New York City.

Yamal

“I couldn’t be more excited to begin this journey with American Eagle,” Yamal said. “Off the field, I like to play a lot with fashion trends, and as a leading lifestyle and denim brand, AE has the product to help me bring my energy and style to life.”

Jennifer Foyle, president and executive creative director of American Eagle and Aerie, said, “Soccer attracts an unrivaled global following, and our multiyear partnership with Lamine Yamal centers AE at the heart of the fandom-highlighting our commitment to him, the sport and our customers.”

We can’t wait to see what this collaboration has in store for us – stay tuned, we will definitely keep you posted!

Meantime you can shop for the newest American Eagle collection here.

The post American Eagle Outfitters x Lamine Yamal first appeared on Denimology.

DENIM and PATCHES sourced this post originally published on this site

Filed Under: Blog

Milan Fashion Week Men’s: Fall/Winter 26-27 Denim Trends

January 29, 2026 by DENIMandPATCHES

Denim trends returned to bold washes, distressing and embellishments at Milan Fashion Week Men’s.

DENIM and PATCHES sourced this post originally published on this site

Filed Under: Blog

Etro Pre-Fall 2026 Men’s And Women’s Lookbook

January 29, 2026 by DENIMandPATCHES

lookbook

Etro is the brand for you if you’re looking for more classical denim. Let’s say, classical with a twist!

Etro’s trademark embroideries and embellishments are a big thing for denim as well in this Pre=Fall 2026 collection. You’ll see denim textures integrated with patterned fabrics, such as velvet, jacquard, or patchwork. All very much in Etro’s bohemian textile spirit.

embellished jeans

Denim styles for both – men and women – are fitted and straight with some bootcuts and flares. As opposed to the baggy and oversized denim fits we have seen in many other collections.

While Etro’s Pre-Fall 2026 isn’t actually centered on traditional jeans, denim and denim-like fabrics appear as part of the rich textile mix. Especially through velvet intarsia and textured surfaces that evoke denim’s tactile qualities. More like denim influence or infusion rather than just simple blue jeans.

denim
corduroy
jeans
LEATHER

You can shop for the current Etro collection on their website, at Farfetch women/men, and at CETTIRE.

The post Etro Pre-Fall 2026 Men’s And Women’s Lookbook first appeared on Denimology.

DENIM and PATCHES sourced this post originally published on this site

Filed Under: Blog

Levi’s Celebrates Bay Area Culture Ahead of Super Bowl LX

January 28, 2026 by DENIMandPATCHES

Super Bowl LX is coming to Levi’s backyard, putting the brand on a global stage.

DENIM and PATCHES sourced this post originally published on this site

Filed Under: Blog

Kaia Gerber x RE/DONE – New Creative Partner Role

January 28, 2026 by DENIMandPATCHES

Kaia Gerber has joined RE/DONE, the Los Angeles based denim brand originally known for upcycling vintage Levi’s jeans.

kaia

Gerber will be an investor, creative partner, and advisory board member. She’ll be helping shape brand strategy, contribute to collection development, and work on creative direction for campaigns.

“RE/DONE has always felt like a natural extension of who I am. It honors the past while feeling completely of the moment,” Gerber said in a statement. “The brand represents a lifestyle rooted in authenticity, individuality, and timeless style. I’ve loved being part of its journey, and I’m excited to help shape what comes next. This will include creating products and stories which feel personal, intentional, and deeply connected to today’s generation.”

Gerber has been linked to RE/DONE since 2017, when she and her mother, supermodel Cindy Crawford, posed together in a campaign wearing jeans from the brand’s collaboration with Levi’s. Since, Gerber has been a longtime supporter of the company.

vinatage jeans

You will get to see Gerber’s direct influence on the brand starting with the release of their Spring 2026 campaign. The ad campaign will be featuring Secret Snow, daughter of the late Dash Snow and a visual artist in her own right.

ad campaign

You can shop for RE/DONE at Farfetch, FWRD, and at Nordstrom.

The post Kaia Gerber x RE/DONE – New Creative Partner Role first appeared on Denimology.

DENIM and PATCHES sourced this post originally published on this site

Filed Under: Blog

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  • Everything You Need to Know About Raw Denim Jeans
  • Levi’s, Springy Jeans and Homeboy Threads Unearth the ‘Economics of the Past’ at Preface Show
  • 5 Brands That Defined My Denim Story More Than Any Other
  • American Eagle Outfitters x Lamine Yamal
  • Milan Fashion Week Men’s: Fall/Winter 26-27 Denim Trends

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