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Kylie Jenner, Madonna, Lena Dunham and more styled the barely there look on Monday night’s red carpet.

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Yes, colored jeans are genuinely back for Spring 2026. But not in the “mint skinny jeans from 2012” way. Fashion seems to have collectively agreed to bring them back with better taste.

What’s back is “grown-up” colored denim: muted, sophisticated, and styled almost like tailored trousers. Fashionistas are calling out non-blue denim as one of the season’s biggest updates, especially earth tones and soft pastels.

And this is one of the more interesting denim shifts this spring.

Most relevant colors this spring:

Chocolate brown or mocha, which is probably he biggest “safe colored denim trend. The vibe is quiet luxury denim. Because not only does this color feel luxurious but is also easy to pair with other colors like cream, white, black, blue, and butter yellow. It is also the easiest non-blue jean to wear.

Deep red, cherry, burgundy – definitely gaining momentum, more fashion-forward than mainstream. If you wear it, keep everything else simple.

Pastel pink which is washed-out and dusty, not bubblegum or hot pink “chaos”. More like dusty pink or soft rose.

So: don’t toss your blue jeans, But if you want your denim to feel more current this spring, colored denim is one of the clearest updates happening right now.

And last, but ot least – my honest review:

If you’re trying one colored jean this spring, start with chocolate brown. It gives you the trend without looking like you’re auditioning for a 2010 Tumblr revival.

The post What About Colored Jeans This Spring 2026? first appeared on Denimology.

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SOSO Brothers Giveaway: The New Ghost Double Black Jeans

The 20 oz. Ghost denim has become a cornerstone of SOSO Brothers’ lineup. More than any of the selvedges they offer, it defines the brand: heavy, dense, and built to develop proper character with wear.

Now there’s a new version. The Ghost Double Black is made with a black warp and a black weft—which gives it a very different kind of fade.

I’ve teamed up with SOSO to give away a pair. All you have to do is enter your email and name below.

What Makes This Ghost Denim So Interesting

This isn’t just another pair of black selvedge jeans—it’s one of SOSO’s most proven fabrics in a different configuration.

At 20 oz., this is proper heavyweight denim—but not the kind that’s impossible to wear. It’s structured and dense from day one, but still realistic to break in.

But the real gem of this new denim is the combination of warp and weft, and what they’re each designed to do differently.

The warp yarns are sulphur-dyed black, which means they’ll fade with wear and wash. But the weft is reactive-dyed black, so it stays black. As the denim fades, the darker foundation remains, creating lots of contrast.

If you’ve been curious about SOSO—or just want to see what this fabric is about—this giveaway is the perfect way to try it. Enter above.

Once you’ve entered the giveaway, visit my SOSO jeans buying guide to learn more about the brand and what makes them so unique—or take a closer look at the new 20 oz. Ghost Double Black on SOSO’ website.

The post Win a Pair of Custom-Made 20 oz. Black Selvedge Jeans appeared first on Denimhunters.

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The rag & bone Resort 2027 is not loud, not trend-chasing, and definitely not experimental.

Instead, this collection is about quietly evolving classic American styles.

And honestly? That’s exactly why it matters.

Because this is the kind of denim and menswear people will actually wear daily.

Swaim Hutson, head designer of rag & bone’s menswear, delivers his second season with a narrative focused on a gentle refresh. Moving away from the rustic suiting of the past, the storytelling centers on a multi-generational dialogue: the well-dressed Brooklyn father and his son.

It is a study in mellow evolution, where the brand’s indie roots are reactivated for a global stage, proving that longevity in the menswear landscape requires a fine balance between honoring the longtime customer and embracing the nouveau-prep movement.

The visual storytelling of the Resort 2027 lookbook transitions from the brand’s traditional neutral palette into a rhythmic exploration of rich, saturated hues. The narrative journey moves from the bold reds of previous seasons into deep emerald greens and vivid cobalt blues.

There is a visual flow that prioritizes a lived-in aesthetic, where striped jerseys with dropped shoulders and pleated chinos evoke the ease of a mid-century oxford. This aesthetic frames the rag & bone man as a protagonist of subtle confidence, favoring a clean, uncluttered silhouette that replaces extraneous design details with a focus on color and material depth.

This Resort 2027 rag & bone collection will only be available in a few months. But you can shop for pieces from the current collection on the brand’s website,

The post rag & bone – Resort 2027 Men’s Lookbook first appeared on Denimology.

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My Five Top Picks for Unsanforized Jeans Without the Sizing Headaches—and Why They Stand Out

I love unsanforized denim, especially the process of shrinking a pair down and really making it my own.

But I’ve also had it go wrong. A few times, I didn’t size it right—and ended up with jeans that simply didn’t fit after the shrink.

If you want the benefits of unsanforized denim without that risk, there’s a simple solution: one-washed. You remove the sizing guesswork—and you get the texture and feel of the denim right from the start.

A few weeks back, we published a guide to our favourite shrink-to-fit jeans. This week, we published a follow-up guide to one-washed unsanforized pairs—perfect if you want the same fabric and character without the hassle and risks.

There are a lot of great options in there. In this DH Weekly, I’ll highlight a few that stand out to me—and explain why.

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Samurai – For High-Contrast Fades

If there’s one pair in this guide I’d like to try, it’s Samurai.

They’ve always approached denim with fading in mind—and it shows. The fabrics are built for sharp, high-contrast fades, with a kind of intensity that’s hard to match.

I’ve only tried them on, not worn them. And honestly, after launching my own brand, it feels a bit strange to wear other jeans than my own.

Benzak did a collab with Samurai a few years back—so he got to wear both brands at the same time. Shoot for the stars, I guess.

If you’re chasing strong fades and want a pair that really develops over time, this is where I’d look.

You can buy Samurai from these retailers: Franklin & Poe (US), Brooklyn Clothing (CA), Blue in Green (US), and Redcast Heritage (ES).

TCB – Strong Value in the Repro Space

Here you’re getting fully made-in-Japan jeans, with proprietary denim, at around €200. That’s very competitive. And it’s not by accident.

They run their own factory and keep production tight, which cuts a lot of the small costs that usually stack up. Having launched a brand myself, I know how quickly those costs add up.

You’re paying about the same as you do for a pair of Edwin—really, no offence, I love Edwin—for something that’s on the next level and unsanforized.

I have a pair of their 50s jeans. They weren’t quite my style, so I haven’t worn them much. But the fade potential speaks for itself.

One thing to be aware of: TCB stick closely to vintage construction, including cotton sewing thread. That means the seams will likely wear-out in places like the crotch before the denim does. Some people love that level of authenticity, not me—which is why Weirlooms are sewn with poly/cotton thread.

If you want a true repro experience with strong fade potential—without moving into the higher price tiers—TCB is a very solid option.

TCB is available at: Redcast Heritage (ES), Cultizm (DE), and Franklin & Poe (US)

Warehouse – The Classic Reference Point

If you want to understand what Japanese repro denim is really about, Warehouse is one of the best places to start.

I’ve worn two pairs over the years—the 1001XX in their Banner Denim and the 1003XX WWII model. Both unwashed, so I went through the full shrink-to-fit process. The 1003XX shrank a lot. It started out oversized and ended up as a loose, comfortable fit.

What stands out isn’t extreme texture or headline features. It’s how balanced everything feels. The fabric, the construction, the way they wear in—it’s all very considered and very consistent.

If you’re looking to experience one of the Osaka Five brands properly, this is one of the safest—and most rewarding—ways to do it.

Warehouse is sold at Lost & Found (CA), Cultizm (DE), Hinoya (JP), and Clutch Café (UK).

orSlow – A Brand Denimheads Underrate

Maybe it’s just me, but I have a feeling denimheads don’t really consider orSlow’s jeans. And not only because they don’t do raw denim—I think it’s got something to do with the brand’s distribution as well.

You’ll find orSlow in great heritage-focused stores, but also in more contemporary menswear shops—places where you don’t need to know what selvedge is to buy a pair of jeans.

But if you look at the product itself, it’s hard to argue with. The quality is right up there. No shortcuts, no compromises. Just very well-executed repro denim.

I’ve tried their 105 Standard Fit. For me, the fit wasn’t quite right—the front rise was a bit too high, and the back rise a bit too low—so I ended up letting them go.

They do a lot of washed versions, which might put off some purists. But when you actually see how those jeans wear in (like those above), it’s clear they know exactly what they’re doing.

orSlow is sold at Cultizm (DE) and Blue in Green (US)

The Strike Gold – Pushing Denim to the Extreme

Strike Gold is high on my list of brands I’d like to spend real time with.

Like Samurai, it’s one of those names that keeps coming up. Everything I’ve seen and heard points in the same direction: This is dense, stubborn denim that fights you at the start and only reveals its character with some serious commitment.

I haven’t worn a pair myself. But people who have tend to describe the same experience—it’s tough in the beginning, but once it breaks in, the fades feel earned in a completely different way.

If you want something that challenges you—and rewards patience—this is where I’d look.

The Strike Gold is sold at Redcast Heritage (ES) and Those That Know (UK)

Want to Explore More Brands?

If you want to see all the options, the full guide to one-washed unsanforized jeans breaks down more than a dozen brands that specialise in denim like this, giving you the reference points you need to understand what to expect from each of them. Read the guide here.

From the Archive: Why Denim Weight Matters

Once you’ve figured out shrinkage and sizing, the next thing that really shapes how a pair of jeans behaves is the weight of the denim.

It’s one of the first numbers you’ll see—12 oz., 16 oz., 21 oz.—but it’s often misunderstood. Weight affects everything from how stiff the jeans feel at the start to how they break in and fade over time.

If you want a clearer sense of what those numbers actually mean—and how to choose between lightweight, midweight, and heavyweight denim—this entry from my Denim Encyclopedia breaks it down:

→ Denim Weight: What Is ‘Ounce’ and Why Does It Matter?

The post Where I’d Start with One-Washed Unsanforized Denim appeared first on Denimhunters.

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Get the Best of Unsanforized Selvegde Without Sizing Risks

When you dive into the world of well-made selvedge, you quickly encounter brands that pride themselves on richly textured denim. 

Much of that denim is unsanforized, meaning it hasn’t been pre-shrunk before being cut and sewn into jeans—and that can make getting the right size a real challenge.

The solution to this was introduced nearly a century ago: sanforization.

Sanforization is a mechanical process that pre-shrinks fabric, making sizing more predictable, but it comes with downsides: sanforizing smooths out some of the texture. This texture rises to the surface with fading, but, when it is new, some people find sanforized denim a little flat.

If you want some of the most richly textured denims on the planet without any of the sizing headaches associated with shrink-to-fit denim, you should be looking at one-washed, unsanforized selvedge.

The denim is left unsanforized, but it is washed once at the factory. This removes most of the shrinkage while preserving the texture and character of fresh-off-the-loom selvedge.

That first wash does more than just control shrinkage. Unsanforized denim is tightly rolled after weaving, and washing it opens up the fabric—raising fibres to the surface, tightening the weave, and settling the stitching.

The result is denim that draws the hand and the eye immediately. How they’ll fade—that part’s up to you. How they’ll look and fit after that first wash—that question has been answered for you.

The Best Brands for One-Washed Unsanforized Selvedge

The brands we’ll cover here all specialise in one-washed unsanforized pairs. We’ll let you know what to expect with each brand and how to approach sizing to get a perfect fit. 

Oni

The undisputed kings of textured, one-wash selvedge

The gatekeepers of the most closely guarded secrets in the selvedge game, Oni work with some of the industry’s most-experienced weavers and dyers. Their denims brim with texture that demands close (even microscopic) attention.

It’s no surprise that a brand that places texture in the foreground does everything they can to help customers appreciate the work and expertise that’s gone into creating this selvedge. Their one-washed selvedge is nothing short of magical. 

Each Oni denim reacts differently when washed, so their sizing varies significantly. Read the size charts carefully. You may need to size up or down to get a perfect fit.

Oni’s signature is loose weaves, which means their denims will stretch out more than more tightly woven denims. With loosely woven pairs, expect at least a full tag size of stretch. Start with a very snug fit.  

Oni is sold at: Redcast Heritage (ES), Blue in Green (US), and Hinoya (JP)

Samurai

The perfect brand for faders with high-contrast aspirations

More than any other brand in Japan, Samurai approach each new denim thinking about how it will fade. For those looking for dramatic fades with incredibly sharp contrasts, Samurai denims deliver the goods.

Samurai once offered unwashed and unsanforized versions of some of their iconic pairs, but they seem to have transitioned over the last few years to only offering one-washed versions of their pairs (usually, but not always, marked with “II” at the end of the model number).

Samurai’s one-washed pairs tend to be on the tight side for those at the upper end of a given size range. They’re often a little larger than the tag size at the bottom of the size range. Double and triple check the measurements before ordering.

Samurai’s denims are also quite stiff and unforgiving. They won’t stretch out much, so choose a size that will hug your waist comfortably from day one.

You can buy Samurai from these retailers: Franklin & Poe (US), Brooklyn Clothing (CA), Blue in Green (US), and Redcast Heritage (ES).

The Strike Gold

Rough and crisp selvedge that fades like nothing else

Crisp and richly textured, Strike Gold’s denims are prized for their exceptional fade potential. Rough, hairy, and loosely woven, the denims are produced slowly and with tremendous care—something that becomes more apparent as the denim ages.

With details like cotton threads and rivets that are copper on the outside and iron on the inside, these pairs show their age like few others. They will likely require more repair work than pairs sewn with poly-cotton threads, but that’s part of the charm.

Most Strike Gold pairs run on the large side. For a slim fit, you’ll likely want to size down for a snug fit bordering on tight. Thanks to their loose weave, you can expect them to stretch out to a very comfortable fit. 

The Strike Gold offer a few of their pairs in both washed and unwashed versions. The unwashed versions will shrink to fit. When both options are available, they are clearly marked as either “one wash” or “non-wash” next to the tag size. There are different size charts for each version. 

The Strike Gold is sold at Redcast Heritage (ES) and Those That Know (UK)

Sugar Cane

A conservative repro brand for the classic selvedge experience

With the same parent company as perennial Denimhunters favourites like Buzz Rickson’s and Whitesville, Sugar Cane produce deeply respectful versions of American casual icons. A great choice for those who want the best of both the new and the old worlds.

Their denims look and feel traditional. They don’t rely on heavy texture or visual impact—instead, they deliver a clean, understated take on vintage repro denim that rewards long-term wear.

Sugar Cane’s pairs are generally close to true-to-size, but definitely not close enough to rely on tag size alone. Check the measurements carefully—you may need to size up or down for a perfect fit. 

Sugar Cane has both sanforized and unsanforized denims in their range. If you’re ordering elsewhere than through the link below, this is definitely a brand that you’ll want to double-check specifications before you order to make sure you’re getting an unsanforized pair.

Sugar Cane is available at: Redcast Heritage (ES), Franklin & Poe (US), Blue in Green (US), Hinoya (JP), and Iron Shop Provisions (US).

Omoto Denim

A fast riser in the selvedge scene for very good reasons

The newest brand on this list was founded by a former member of the Momotaro team who broke off to create his own line of vintage-minded jeans. The brand has made a strong and immediate impression, stacking up retailers around the world in short order.

At the moment, they’re working with two selvedge denims, a lightweight 13.5 oz. selvedge and a 15.5 oz. middleweight. The wash brings a ton of texture to the surface with both denims, and it’s easy to see why the brand has been winning new fans everywhere they touch down.

Omoto pairs were likely true-to-size before washing. The factory wash has shrunk them by as much as two full tag sizes. Check the measurements carefully. You may need to size way down to get a perfect fit with this brand. 

Omoto Denim is sold at Redcast Heritage (US), Cultizm (DE), Franklin & Poe (US), Brooklyn Clothing Co. (CA), Hinoya (JP)

Warehouse

Impeccable in every possible way

Any conversation about unsanforized selvedge has to include Warehouse. Widely regarded in Japan as the first name in reproductions of American icons from the ‘40s, ‘50s, and ‘60s, unsanforized denim is right in their wheelhouse.

Warehouse denims are all highly conservative, but this is a big part of their appeal for those looking for a truly classic denim experience. They fade brilliantly, especially when worn a ton and washed regularly.

Warehouse pairs run small, and the discrepancy between the measurements and the tag size increases as the size climbs. Especially if you’re in one of the larger sizes, you might need to size down two sizes to get a perfect fit.

Warehouse is sold at Lost & Found (CA), Cultizm (DE), Hinoya (JP), and Clutch Café (UK).

TCB Jeans

No-nonsense selvedge, perfect for newcomers

TCB pairs fly off the shelves faster than retailers can stock them, in large part due to the brand’s ability to provide metric tons of value. With more bang for your buck than just about any other brand, they’re a great choice for anybody who wants to get a lot without digging deep to get it.

With all of their pairs washed thoroughly in the factory, the denim is remarkably plush and soft. Few pairs are this comfortable out of the box, and even fewer are this easy to wear day in and day out. No matter what the weight or cut, TCB pairs are the cat’s meow.

Another pair that is likely true-to-size before the factory wash. The wash shrinks each pair by around two tag sizes, so this is definitely a pair you’ll want to size up with. You can expect the denim to stretch by at least an inch in the waist, so aim for a very snug fit when trying them on.

TCB is available at: Redcast Heritage (ES), Cultizm (DE), and Franklin & Poe (US)

Full Count

Easy-wearing selvedge from a legendary Japanese brand

The first brand to experiment with Zimbabwean cotton, Full Count were also one of the first brands to start pushing ounces upwards. Rather than painstakingly reproducing classics, they’ve always gone out of their way to push the industry into new and interesting territory.

Their 13.7 oz. and 15.5 oz. selvedge denims remain some of the best-possible introductions to the world of easy-wearing, well-made selvedge. Can produce contrasts if pushed, but it’s best to lean into their strengths and push for beautiful vintage fades with plenty of wear and washing.

Most Full Count pairs will fit true-to-size, but you can expect them to stretch out by around a full tag size with plenty of wear. Start with a very snug fit around the waist. They’ll stretch out to fit very comfortably. 

Buy Full Count at Redcast Heritage (ES), Blue in Green (US), Cultizm (DE), Clutch Café (UK)

Graph Zero

Pushing boundaries with every pair

One of the most creative selvedge brands in the space, Graph Zero have gained a stellar reputation in Japan and around the world for their willingness to experiment with new approaches to selvedge.

Each pair is a showcase of Japan’s unrivalled textile expertise. Dyed and woven by some of the most passionate artisans on the planet, these denims have a wow factor that few brands can match.

Graph Zero pairs usually run a little on the small side, but, with the loose weave, you can expect them to stretch by around a full tag size. You might be able to order your typical size, but you’ll want to double check the measurements (especially if you wear a large size). 

Graph Zero is sold at Redcast Heritage (ES) and Cultizm (DE).

Tanuki

Best coloured wefts in the scene

One of the most slept-on brands in the scene, Tanuki can rival brands like Oni and PBJ for beautifully textured denims. They’ve also got some of the most flattering cuts out there. A great choice for those looking to make a powerful style statement with their pair.

Tanuki have always been a brand that do something very special on the inside of their jeans. Their coloured wefts make each pair as beautiful on the reverse side as they are on the outside.

Tanuki pairs are usually pretty close to their tag size, but larger fellas may want to size down. With their loose weave, you can expect around an inch of stretch in the waist, so aim for a snug fit when trying on.

Tanuki is available at Redcast Heritage (ES) and Blue Beach Denim (TW)

Momotaro

Easy-going and unmistakable 

With a strong reputation that stretches around the globe, Momotaro is, for many denimheads, the door to the world of well-made Japanese selvedge. An excellent starting point for your next fade journey.

With a wide-ranging choice of denims and cuts, Momotaro leave only some of their pairs unsanforized. The link below will take you to the unsanforized pairs in the Momotaro lineup.

Most Momotaro pairs are pretty close to their tagged size (usually within an inch or so). With a tighter weave you can expect a little less stretch—usually less than an inch—as the denim relaxes. 

Momotaro is stocked at: Redcast Heritage (ES), Cultizm (DE), Franklin & Poe (US), Division Road (US), Hinoya (JP), Blue Beach Denim (TW), DeeCee Style (CH)

The Flat Head

Back from the brink and better than ever

Since re-emerging a couple of years ago as a more streamlined heritage brand, The Flat Head have been reminding denimheads exactly what put them on the map in the early aughts. Still an excellent choice for those who want high contrast fades without the high ounces.

If you’ve heard the name but haven’t yet sampled the denims, this is a great time to introduce yourself to the brand. Their flagship Pioneer Denim is a legend in the scene for very good reasons.

Flat Head’s one-washed pairs are on the small side (especially in the bigger sizes). It’s likely you’ll want to size up, but you’ll want to double-check the measurements to confirm this. Expect a little less than an inch of stretch. 

The Flat Head offer a few of their pairs in both washed and unwashed versions. The unwashed versions will shrink to fit. For the link we’ve provided below, when both options are available, they are clearly marked as either “one wash” or “non-wash” next to the tag size. There are different size charts for each version. 

The Flat Head is available at: Redcast Heritage (ES), Franklin & Poe (US), and Iron Shop Provisions (US)

Resolute

Utterly essential for vintage faders

Founded by legendary Japanese denim designer Yoshiyuki Hayashi in 2010, Resolute quickly established themselves as a force to be reckoned with in the industry. If, like Hayashi-san, you think jeans reached the peak with the 501 produced in the 1960s, this brand is not to be missed.

To bring out the best in these exceptional pairs, treat them to regular washing and even more regular wearing. They’ll reward you with vintage, washed-out blues and train tracks like you wouldn’t believe.

Resolutes run quite small, so you might need to size up by two full tag sizes. They’ll likely stretch less than an inch as they relax, so take this into account when looking at the measurement charts.  

Pure Blue Japan

Dripping with texture and indigo 

One of the first brands to really push the envelope with highly textured denims, PBJ quickly earned a cult-like following among fade enthusiasts. If you’re looking for a pair that ages like a fine wine, you can’t do much better than PBJ.

It’s no surprise that a brand that prides itself on their beautifully textured denims, PBJ gives each pair a vigorous wash to bring that texture to the surface. The only thing more beautiful than a fresh pair of PBJs is a faded pair.

Most PBJ pairs are smaller than their tag size might suggest. You’ll likely need to size up for a perfect fit, though a few of their pairs will fit true-to-size. Check the measurements carefully. 

You can get Pure Blue Japan at Redcast Heritage (ES), Franklin & Poe (US), Brooklyn Clothing Co. (CA), Blue in Green (US), DeeCee Style (CH), and Clutch Café (UK)

orSlow

A perfect bridge into the world of well-made pairs

With a fan base that extends well beyond the selvedge scene, orSlow have helped introduce a ton of fashion-conscious consumers to the wide world of well-made Japanese selvedge and heritage menswear.

They’ve done this with deeply respectful and quietly conservative jeans that speak volumes without raising the volume. Lean into their wheelhouse by wearing them daily and washing them frequently. Can produce stunning vintage fades when they’re pushed hard.

orSlow offer their pairs in six sizes, running from 0 (equivalent to a 29W) to a 5 (equivalent to a 36). They’ll stretch out by around a full tag size in the waist. Read the size charts carefully and pick one that will fit very snugly around your waist when you first try them on.

orSlow is sold at Cultizm (DE) and Blue in Green (US)

Still Not Finding the Perfect Brand for You? 

If you want a broader look at the best denim brands in the scene, you’ll find a more complete list of Japanese, European, American, and Southeast Asian brands in our Selvedge Masterlist or Thomas’ guide to The Best Raw Denim Brands in the World.

Should you want to dive even deeper into the Japanese denim scene, Thomas’ Definitive Guide to Japanese Denim Brands is a good place to start.

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