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For more than a decade, Kingpins has meant looking for stories for me. This week, I was there looking for fabrics I could actually use for Weirloom.
Tellason made a sourcing call along those lines back in 2017. Pete and Tony wanted to buy more denim from White Oak and keep feeding their San Francisco factory, so they added a non-selvedge Cone fabric.
And then there are the shirts. At one stand, some flannels looked strangely familiar. There was a reason for that.
Tellason’s Stock jackets cost roughly $100 less without moving production out of San Francisco. The only real difference is the denim.
The interesting question isn’t whether the edge is there. It’s what changed to get the price down—and whether that changes how good the jacket is.
I spoke to Tony Patella about the decision. It hits especially close to home because I’m making almost the same call for some Weirloom AW27 jeans.
One fader from the IIY5 went the whole 365 days without washing or soaking his jeans. Another washed or rinsed more than 15 times. Both finished with fades that put them in the Top 20.
I like that kind of slight contradiction, because it takes a lot of the commandments out of raw denim.
More than 2,500 people started Year 5 of the Indigo Invitational, and over 650 finished. This new guide looks at what the Top 20 actually did—and where their answers disagree on fit, weight, washing and durability.
If there’s one thing I’d take from it, it’s that the pair you can actually live in for a year beats whatever rule sounded clever before you started.
Five things I’d click on this week:
Loopwheel goes well beyond T-shirts – Levi’s x LOOPWHEELER x BEAMS have made a jacket and trousers from Tsuriami sweatshirt fabric. Same recognisable Levi’s shapes, completely different drape. If the construction is the interesting part, my loopwheeled T-shirt guide explains what genuine loopwheel knitting actually is.
Black over indigo – Samurai’s 15 oz. Aoki Tachikage starts black on the outside but wears towards blue as the top dye gives way. That ageing story is the reason I’d look at this one.
Super soft selvedge – CIOTA’s jeans use Suvin cotton to push Japanese selvedge in a softer direction. Useful reminder that selvedge tells you how the cloth was woven, not how it has to feel.
Plaid, but pick the fit first – KATO has the Ripper and Brace shirts back in different checks. I’d start with whichever cut suits you, then choose the fabric.
The Elephant 2 name is back – Naked & Famous has revived the 22 oz. denim, with jeans and a jacket in the range. The interesting part is that they brought this specific heavyweight cloth back rather than replacing it with another new one.
Earlier this week, I posted four Japanese checks I’ve picked for Weirloom AW27 samples. They’re going into two of the three shirt styles I’m developing.
When I got to Kingpins, I spotted some flannels that looked very familiar. Turn out it was the producer of “my” flannels, and those familiar flannels were just the SS28 colourways.
Before I left, he pointed at the heavyweight flannel (from another brand) that I was wearing, and told me he’d made the fabric. Small world, and just confirmed I’d made a good choice with my selection.
Given how much of this week I spent looking at flannel for shirts that won’t exist until AW27, this one earns its way back.
If you’d rather buy one now, the heavy flannel guide brings together the shirts we keep coming back to, and where to find them.
The post Is Selvedge Denim Really Worth an Extra Hundred Dollars? appeared first on Denimhunters.
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Ottolinger F/W 2026: denim & leather is a strong pairing to examine for the season’s more experimental, deconstructed denim direction.
The key is whether the collection treats jeans as classic wardrobe basics. Or transforms them through distressed surfaces, asymmetric construction, and leather contrast.
Ottolinger’s F/W 2026 continues the label’s exploration of raw femininity and experimental construction under founders Christa Bösch and Cosima Gadient.
Known for their deconstructed aesthetic, the designers once again approach clothing as a process rather than a finished object, allowing seams, cuts, and distortions to remain visible.
The collection plays with tension between fragility and strength. With denim and leather tailoring is disrupted through asymmetry and shown with unexpected layering. Silhouettes feel both delicate and confrontational. Many garments seem intentionally altered or reconstructed, reinforcing the brand’s signature sense of imperfection. (You can see lots of models wearing sneakers with undone shoelaces…).
Denim & Leather
With Fall Winter 2026, Ottolinger continues to challenge conventional ideas of polish, presenting clothing that embraces vulnerability, experimentation, and transformation.
Leather – baggy and slim fit
Leather Leggings
Check out more looks from this collection in our gallery below.
You can shop for Ottolinger at Farfetch, doors., and at SSENSE.
The post OTTOLINGER F/W 2026 – Denim & Leather Looks first appeared on Denimology.
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Dior Men Spring 2027 is a major runway reference for the return of skinny jeans. But with a deliberately undone, rebellious twist.
Yes, Dior belongs firmly in the slim-jean revival camp. But Jonathan Anderson’s take is more eclectic: slim-fitting jeans coexist with distressed finishes, pastel colors, and “juxtaposition” styling. Most of the distressed jeans are paired with refined and elegant-looking jackets or shirts. Lots of layers,
Takeaway from Dior’s Spring 2027 collection:
The new skinny jean: Slim, elongated, and rock-inspired – not simply a return to plain stretch skinnies.
Distressed denim meets tailoring: Ripped jeans look intentional when contrasted with refined jackets and formal accessories.
Statement denim: Snake-print and metallic finishes push jeans into fashion and evening-wear territory.
You can shop for Dior Men at Saks Fifth Avenue and at Neiman Marcus.
The post Dior Men Spring 2027 – Lookbook first appeared on Denimology.
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Raw denim jackets made in San Francisco for less than $200 aren’t exactly common. Tellason has two of them: the Stock Denim Jacket at $195 and the Stock Coverall at $189.
The selvedge counterparts start at $285, yet the Stock versions are made in the same city, at the same factory, using the same patterns and sewing techniques. The difference is all in the denim.
This article looks at why Tellason created Stock in the first place, how the non-selvedge fabric changes the economics, what actually changes in the finished jacket, and why that might make Stock the better buy for some readers.
Tellason launched Stock in 2017 for two reasons:
The first was to make a smaller, more accessible range for guys who were new to raw denim, didn’t care all much about exactly how the fabric was made, or simply could not justify selvedge pricing.
The second was more specific: Pete Searson and Tony Patella wanted to buy more fabric from Cone Mills White Oak and send more business through the mill.
The obvious way to cut costs would have been to change where the garments were made. Tony says that option never entered the discussion. Tellason wanted to support the San Francisco factory that had made its jeans since day one just as deliberately as it wanted to support Cone.
So the thing they changed was the denim.
Instead of the narrow shuttle-loomed selvedge used in the main line, Stock used 14 oz. non-selvedge Cone denim woven on modern looms. The range stayed deliberately tight: two jean fits and two jackets.
Selvedge denim is woven on narrow shuttle looms. As the shuttle carries the weft yarn back and forth, the fabric forms a self-finished edge. That edge is where the name comes from.
Modern denim looms work differently. They weave much wider rolls and produce fabric faster, but without that self-finished edge.
That difference matters commercially because fabric width and weaving speed both affect cost. It does not, by itself, tell you whether the denim is good.
Tellason is a particularly useful example because both fabrics are substantial raw denims woven from double ring-spun yarns. The current Stock denim is still a 14 oz. Cone fabric, now woven at Cone’s plant in Mexico. Tony says the model number and recipe remained the same when production moved away from White Oak, and he actually prefers the current Mexican version.
The current Stock fabric has a 65-inch cuttable width. According to Tony, the yield is more than twice as efficient as cutting the same styles from Tellason’s narrower selvedge denim.
That explains a lot of the price gap. The Stock Denim Jacket is $195 versus $298 for the 14.75 oz. Kaihara version. The Stock Coverall is $189 compared to $285 in the comparable selvedge denim.
Tony says all of that difference comes from the denim. The cut-and-sew price is the same.
The difference between the mainline and Stock is actually less than the price gap might suggest.
Tony confirms that the Stock jackets use the same fits and sewing techniques as their selvedge counterparts. The differences beyond the denim are in the packaging, thread colour and hardware colour.
The Stock fabric does feel different. Tony describes it as less rigid than Tellason’s 14.75 oz. and 16.5 oz. Kaihara selvedges, with a hand closer to the 12.5 oz. denim. It breaks in more easily, but still develops strong fades with wear.
That distinction matters because non-selvedge is not a quality category. Most mass-market jeans are made from non-selvedge denim, but that does not mean every non-selvedge fabric belongs in the same bucket.
I like selvedge. I have spent nearly two decades selling it, writing about it, and wearing it. But the edge itself has never been the thing that makes a pair of jeans or a jacket good. Yarn, weave, dyeing, finishing, cut and sewing all matter too.
This is Tellason’s Type III-derived trucker shape, with the familiar chest flap pockets plus side hand-warmer pockets and two large interior pockets.
At $195, it gives you the same San Francisco-made pattern and sewing approach as the $298 14.75 oz. selvedge version, but in the easier-breaking 14 oz. Cone denim.
The Coverall is the more distinctly Tellason option. Its roots go back to a 2011 collaboration with Jay Alaimo and the Brooklyn shop Smith & Butler, built around a chore-coat silhouette and an unusually useful pocket layout.
That includes multiple exterior utility pockets, a small interior pocket and the deep front pocket that has become one of the design’s signatures.
The Stock version costs $189. The comparable 14.75 oz. selvedge Coverall is $285. Again, the pattern and sewing logic stay the same while the denim changes.
Stock isn’t just a jacket story. The range also includes two jeans—the Straight Leg and Slim Tapered—built around the same 14 oz. Cone denim and the same basic proposition: raw denim, San Francisco cut-and-sew and a lower fabric cost than the selvedge line.
That matters because it shows Stock is not a one-off outerwear experiment. It is a deliberately small system: two jean fits, two jackets, one fabric choice doing a very specific job.
Tellason Stock makes the selvedge question unusually easy to isolate.
You are not paying less because the jackets are sewn somewhere else. You are not getting a simplified pattern. According to Tony, the production cost of cutting and sewing is unchanged.
You are paying less because wider modern-loom denim is cheaper for Tellason to buy and more efficient to cut.
That does not make selvedge pointless. The Kaihara fabrics bring their own feel, structure, fading characteristics and the narrow shuttle-loom construction that many of us genuinely enjoy. But Tellason Stock shows why those things should be separated from the basic question of whether a denim jacket is well made.
Tony sees Stock as a gateway into raw denim for plenty of customers. Some eventually move into Tellason’s selvedge range. Others simply want a well-constructed American-made jacket and stick with Stock.
Both routes make sense. The useful question is not whether selvedge is automatically better. It is whether the fabric, fit, construction and price line up with what you actually want from the jacket.
Each week, Tellason picks one product for its Item of the Week, with 20% off for seven days. Sign up to get the next one in your inbox.
The post Why These San Francisco Denim Jackets Skip Selvedge appeared first on Denimhunters.
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Twisted wide-leg jeans are a compelling denim direction for Fall 2026. Because they combine two top trends: oversized leg volume and visible, architectural construction.
Instead of a conventional side seam falling straight down the leg, the seam twists or curves around it, creating movement and an off-kilter silhouette.
The signature details are: Twisted side seams that wrap diagonally around the leg. Wide, barrel-shaped volume with a mid- or low-rise waist. Full-length hems that emphasize the sculptural shape.
To sum it up, twisted wide-leg jeans are a strong Fall 2026 update. More directional than a standard wide-leg jean, but less extreme than oversized baggy denim.
You can shop for this trend right now – check out our team’s favorite picks in the gallery below.
AGOLDE Twist Mid-Rise Wide-Leg Jeans ($339)
We The Free Alter Ego Wide-Leg Twisted Jeans ($148)
MOTHER DENIM Snacks! The Lemon Twist ($248)
PAIGE Anessa Twist-Out WIde-Leg Jeans ($269)
And if you’re not really into wide-leg jeans, there are also cool straight-legs with a twisted seam available from TOTEME ($249) and Maeve ($148).
The post Trending Fall 2026: Twisted Wide-Leg Jeans first appeared on Denimology.
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Madhappy and Lucky Brand are teaming up for the first time in a collaboration rooted in optimism, individuality and self-expression.
The campaign, shot in California by photographer Gillian Garcia, draws on the collection’s sense of Americana and nostalgia, capturing a relaxed, lived-in vision of optimism through denim, the natural landscape, and the spontaneity of being on the move. Familiar yet distinctly current, the imagery reflects the shared spirit of self-expression and reinvention at the heart of both brands.
Bringing together Lucky Brand’s more than three decades of denim heritage and lived-in Americana with Madhappy’s optimistic ideology, the collection reimagines familiar staples for those who chart their own path. The result blends Lucky Brand’s signature denim with Madhappy’s relaxed silhouettes, bringing the distinct identities of both brands together in one collection.
Denim anchors the collection in two vintage-inspired washes, light and dark, designed with the lived-in character of a favorite pair of jeans. The assortment includes a Boyfriend Jean, Low Rise Distressed Bootcut Jean, and Low Rise Denim Shorts. Also included is a hooded Denim Bomber Jacket and Patchwork Bomber Jacket. Each piece is designed to pair with a Madhappy hoodie.
The fleece and knit offering reworks Lucky Brand’s eclectic Americana details through the Madhappy lens. It includes the Mad Lucky Full Zip Hoodie, the Patchwork Cooper Hoodie, the Clover Hoodie. As well as a pair of Straight Leg Sweatpants, and a Crochet Hoodie. The Lucky Floral Zip Up and Lucky Floral Sweatpant bring in zebra and blossom prints. The collection also includes the Get Lucky Tee, the Lucky Tank Top in a striped knit, and two hats: the Clover Core Hat and the Studded Core Hat.
Here’s when you can shop the limited-edition collection: October 16th on Madhappy.com and October 23rd on Luckybrand.com.
The post Lucky Brand x Madhappy – Collab Fall 2026 first appeared on Denimology.
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Tommy Hilfiger unveiled its Fall 2026 campaign starring Global Brand Ambassador and K-Pop star JANG WONYOUNG.
Denim anchors her wardrobe, layered with signature prep styles and worn through with her fresh, youthful perspective. From signature denim silhouettes to classic prep styles, she mixes familiar Tommy icons with her confident, charismatic and optimistic attitude.
“TOMMY JEANS has such a strong sense of Americana, but there’s always room to make it your own,” said JANG WONYOUNG. “From prep tartans to oversized logos and denim-on-denim, I love mixing the style codes in unexpected ways. For me, it’s about balancing the timeless with the new, adding my energy to each look.”
Rooted in New York style, the Fall 2026 collection reimagines American classics, sharpening familiar prep silhouettes through new proportions, rich fabrications and archive-inspired details.
Easing into the season, JANG WONYOUNG pairs a pleated tartan skirt with a logo sweater, glossy puffer jacket and fur-trimmed micro duffle. In another look, she wears a cord mini-skirt with a graphic flag jacket and matching T-Shirt.
The TOMMY JEANS Fall 2026 collection is available on tommy.com, in TOMMY JEANS stores worldwide, and at Macy’s.
The post Tommy Hilfiger – Fall 2026 Ad Campaign first appeared on Denimology.
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