Trade negotiations between the United States and India have been fraught with tension bordering on passive aggression over the past year.
DENIM and PATCHES sourced this post originally published on this site
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J. Jill F/W 2026 Denim Ad Campaign
J.Jill just launched a new influencer-led denim campaign, pairing a multigenerational group of fashion creators with real women to style the brand’s expanded, fit-first collection.
Through a partnership with a select group of multigenerational fashion creators and industry stylists, the campaign unveils a new era of denim at J.Jill – celebrating the collection’s versatility and foundational role in any wardrobe.
The expanded assortment builds on the success of J.Jill’s bestselling jean, the Authentic Fit Slim Leg, offering new fits, leg shapes, fabric blends and washes. The collection now also includes the Modern Fit assortment, a true mid-rise fit launching with straight, wide and flare styles, offering customers even more thoughtfully designed options to suit their preferences and lifestyles.
Crafted from J.Jill’s signature stretch denim with a soft, lightweight feel, the assortment is designed with a range of body types in mind, including petite, misses and plus sizes, with silhouettes and proportions that reflect the individual needs of customers.
“At J.Jill, we understand that finding the right pair of jeans can feel overwhelming and that great fit looks and feels different for every woman,” said Kimberly Wallengren, SVP, CMO, J.Jill. “With the expansion of our denim assortment, we’re offering more silhouettes and fits designed to offer confidence, comfort and effortless style. By pairing this collection with multigenerational, creator-led styling inspiration and in-store denim fit specialists, we’re bringing a more personal and approachable denim experience to our customers.”
A multigenerational group of influential fashion creators are featured in the campaign, including:
- Lucy Hernandez (@lucyswhims)
- Tomeka Crowe Cherry (@cherrypickedstyle)
- Veronica Levy (@lombardandfifth)
These and other influential fashion voices will create additional social content showcasing real women in J.Jill denim. The campaign will appear across J.Jill’s stores, e-commerce site, digital channels and direct mail.
The J.Jill Authentic Fit and Modern Fit denim collections will be available in-store, online and via catalog, with price points ranging from $89 to $119.
The post J. Jill F/W 2026 Denim Ad Campaign first appeared on Denimology.
DENIM and PATCHES sourced this post originally published on this site
How to Judge the Quality of Jeans
Affiliate disclaimer: We work with most brands and retailers featured and earn commission on purchases.
What to Look for in a Well-Made Pair of Jeans
Expensive jeans aren’t hard to find. Figuring out whether they’re actually better made can be much harder.
Because you also pay for brand name, marketing, distribution, retail margins, and all the other things that happen between making a pair of jeans and getting them onto your legs.
That can make quality difficult to judge from the price tag alone. This week’s main story is about how to look past that and judge the jeans themselves—a truly valuable lesson.
In This Issue of the DH Weekly
- This Week at Weirloom – A question about what kind of brand I’m actually building
- New guide – The signs of quality to look for in jeans
- New drops, restocks and releases
- From the Archive – How to spot a well-made tee
Get These Updates in Your Inbox
The DH Weekly is my column and newsletter, out every Friday with new stories, product picks, industry observations, and a bit of denim history. Sign up below to get it straight to your inbox.
This Week at Weirloom
It’s been a while since I shared an update on what’s happening with Weirloom. And if you’re new to the Weekly, you might not even know that I launched my own jeans brand last year. So here’s what’s been happening lately.
Is Weirloom a “Selvedge Brand”?
A few weeks ago, Bryan announced that I’m back on the judging panel for this year’s Indigo Invitational. In the post, he described Weirloom as “his selvedge denim brand,” which got me thinking; because I don’t see Weirloom as a “selvedge brand.”
From the beginning, my ambition has been to build something that can scale, and eventually become what I do for a living. I’ve said several times that I didn’t start Weirloom to get another hobby 😅
Selvedge is the obvious place to start for me. After nearly two decades of working with and writing about selvedge jeans, of course that’s where I start. But what I really want is to take everything I love about the top-shelf jeans—the quality, the details, that they’re made to last—and make that available to more people.
Eventually, this will very likely mean you’ll see non-selvedge Weirloom jeans. Shocking? Maybe. But don’t say I’m not honest and open about it 😇
The WL#2 Restock Is Here
The real Weirloom news this week is more straightforward: the WL#2 Slim Fit—made from Italian selvedge denim—is back in stock, and pre-orders have shipped.
I opened the pre-order back in May with an expected shipping date of August 13, and I got them out right on time. A few sizes are already gone, but most of the size range—from 28 to 40, including 35 and 37—is now back on my shelves and ready to ship to you.
Since they’re now “in stock”, the pre-order pricing is over. That means these are back at the regular price of €200, or the equivalent in your currency.
For a pair of made-in-Europe selvedge jeans with many of the quality signs that I look for in a well-made pair, I still think that represents good value for money.
Speaking of signs of quality in jeans, that brings me rather neatly to this week’s main story.
What Are You Actually Paying For?
A higher price doesn’t automatically mean better jeans.
Most of the time, you’re paying for better denim, better construction, better hardware, or better manufacturing. But you’re paying for a brand name, marketing, distribution, or the fact that the jeans are hanging in a very nice shop.
Back in June, Bryan wrote a guide to the eight signs he looks for in a well-made T-shirt. Then, while I was on holiday for most of July, he did the same for jeans—and that guide is now live.
The new guide covers 11 “checkmarks” you can actually inspect yourself—from selvedge denim and chain-stitched hems to pocket bags, belt loops, hardware, and the extraordinarily rare one-piece fly.
It’s not that your jeans have to have all these details. A flat-felled inseam isn’t automatically better than an overlocked one. Cotton thread is more authentic, but less durable. And some of the best jeans in the world don’t have a one-piece fly.
The point is to understand what these details tell you about the jeans in front of you—and whether the price reflects the product itself. Once you know what to look for, good jeans leave plenty of clues.
Things Worth Your Attention
The drops keep dropping, so here’s a week’s worth of restocks and releases for you—the highlights of what landed in my inbox since the last issue.
Brave Star Is Gearing Up for Heavyweight Season
There’s a lot going on here, but the star of the show is the new 23 oz. Colossus, a special Kaihara selvedge that Brave Star bought the entire available lot of earlier this year.
It’s woven in an unusual heavyweight 4×4 construction rather than the usual 3×1, packing more yarn in both directions. But because it’s long-staple yarn, all that mass has a surprisingly supple hand despite the hefty 23 oz. weight. It’s currently available on pre-order, expected to ship at the end of September.
The other heavyweight release is the 21.5 oz. Reaper Heritage in black. It’s a left-hand-twill selvedge with a black warp and white weft. That combination gives it a much more traditional black-denim look than black-on-black, and it’s available in True Straight and Slim Straight.
There’s plenty beyond heavy jeans too. The 12.5 oz. Sawtooth Wabash snap shirt is a first-time combination, limited to 75 shirts; the 13 oz. Ironside Brownstone jacket is a 50-piece drop; and the Mojave Western Cut has been done in 13 oz. herringbone, with 72 pairs in the first run.
Also worth a look: the Sawtooth Shadow shirt in 12.5 oz. stretch selvedge, a herringbone restock across four jeans fits, and the Glory Days yarn-dyed indigo T-shirts.
… or shop the pre-orders, currently including the 23 oz. Colossus and the Sawtooth Wabash.
Franklin & Poe Starts Flannel Season with UES
The first fall delivery from UES has landed, bringing back the slubby flannels they relaunched last year after a decade-long hiatus, alongside a couple of double-gauze shirts.
My pick is the 502655 Slubby Flannel Shirt in navy (the one Andrew, on the right, wears). At 8.8 oz., it’s lighter than the heavy flannels UES is probably better known for, which makes it closer to an all-year option than a true winter heavyweight.
The heavily slubbed yarns and lightly brushed finish give it that nappy, textured surface I like, and it’s finished with acorn pockets, cat-eye buttons, and a selvedge-ID gusset at the hem. It’s also available in brown and green.
Cultizm Gets Two New Greencast ONIs
Two new ONI fits have landed in the brand’s 15 oz. Green cast selvedge: the 200-GC15 Wide Straight and 622-GC15 Relaxed Tapered.
The colour is what makes this denim really interesting. After rope dyeing the warp with indigo, ONI gives it a yellow-toned sulphur finish, shifting the denim towards that distinctive greenish blue. As the indigo fades, that undertone should become increasingly visible.
Also arriving is Kaptain Sunshine’s first FW26 drop, including a new 5P Straight Denim in 13.5 oz. San Joaquin cotton selvedge, alongside the matching Tracker jacket.
Cultizm also has two new washed versions of the LVC 1933 501 plus House of Blanks heavyweight T-shirts in a two-pack, made in Canada, clocking in at 275 gsm (8.11 oz.).
Hinoya Goes Back to the ’40s
There’s a bit of a 1940s theme around the latest from Tokyo’s original denim destination.
Buzz Rickson’s WWII Denim Blouse is the brand’s take on the stripped-back jacket made under wartime restrictions—four front buttons instead of five, no pocket flaps, and a “FOR THE DURATION” pocket flasher. It’s made from Buzz Rickson’s 13.6 oz. selvedge denim.
They’ve also got three Levi’s Vintage Clothing 501 reproductions, covering the 1944, 1947, and 1955 models. The progression is almost a miniature denim history lesson: the simplified wartime 1944, the cleaner and more modern post-war 1947, and the boxier 1955 associated with outlaws and bikers.
Hinoya also received the green cast drop from ONI, including three straight fits—the 246 Neat Straight, 288 Regular Straight, and 200 Wide Straight—with the 246, currently their number-one bestseller.
Brooklyn: Roughout Boots and the First Signs of Autumn
The autumn deliveries are starting to arrive in earnest now, and there’s quite a bit in Brooklyn Clothing Co.’s latest drop.
The thing I’d look at first is the new drop from Unmarked. They’ve got two boots in heavyweight roughout: the WWII-inspired N1 Boondocker and the lace-to-toe Archie Boot. Both are Goodyear-welted, and that light-coloured leather will only get better with wear. At $549, they also look like good value for money.
There’s also a substantial Full Count delivery, including an olive-drab 2107 Type I and matching 0105 Wide jeans, plus chinos, shirting, and a USN-inspired herringbone coverall. KATO’s FW26 arrivals have started landing too, with new Ripper Flannels and three coloured selvedge options in beige and brown.
Blue in Green Gets a Pure Blue Japan Exclusive Drop
The New York retailer got a batch of BiG exclusives from Pure Blue Japan.
A standout item is the 14 oz. Teacore Black denim, available in PBJ’s 019 Relaxed Tapered and the 003 Regular Straight fits. The warp yarns are dyed brown first, then rope-dyed black, and have a brown weft underneath. That means the denim will gradually reveal those warmer brown tones as the black fades.
There’s also a 16 oz. Double Nep denim in the same two fits, this time pairing an indigo-dyed warp with a sumi ink-dyed weft for a darker, heavily textured fabric.
And the shirts are worth a look too: an indigo-overdyed double-gauze check, plus seersucker and jacquard options—all very much in PBJ’s textured, indigo-heavy wheelhouse.
Redcast: Tigers, Natural Dyes, and a Quieter Week
Redcast have been taking it unusually easy since the last Weekly—I’ve only had a couple of emails from them, rather than the near-daily stream of new arrivals I’ve become accustomed to 😁
The Flat Head ‘Hyaku Tora’ Linen Shirt
What really caught my eye is The Flat Head’s Hyaku Tora linen shirt. It’s based on a 1950s Hawaiian shirt motif, hand screen-printed on linen, with pattern-matched pockets and coconut-shell buttons.
If it looks familiar, there’s a reason. Freenote Cloth’s Ice Tiger shirt is also made from Japanese screen-printed linen. It’s not the exact same tiger pattern, but there’s definitely a resemblance. I like both of them a lot.
Graph Zero New Arrivals
There’s also some considerably more unusual denim from Graph Zero: 15 oz. black-grey jeans made from slubby, skein-dyed denim, plus a limited run combining kakishibu—persimmon tannin dyeing—with aizome indigo dyeing.
Late Summer Must-Haves
And if you’re not quite ready to think about autumn yet, Redcast also received a new Sun Surf reproduction of a vintage Tropicana Sportswear aloha shirt, while Rogue Territory’s latest delivery includes an 8.5 oz. washed Japanese selvedge Field Shirt.
Iron Heart Knows How to Tell a Product Story
In a recent newsletter, the heavyweight champs traced the coach jacket from 1950s American sports through college campuses and into the hip-hop, skate, and Amekaji scenes of the ’80s and ’90s. I really enjoy seeing brands do storytelling like this.
The resulting product is great, too: a relatively faithful 4.8 oz. Nylon Coach Jacket in black or grey, plus the more Iron Heart-esque take: a 10 oz. Neppy Selvedge Denim Coach Jacket with rope-dyed indigo warp, light-blue weft, copper snaps, and ribbed cuffs.
That wraps up Iron Heart’s SS26 collection, so stay tuned for the FW26 collection that’ll start dropping soon.
KATO Wants to See Your Fades
We’re in the final month of Year 5 of the Indigo Invitational, but that isn’t the only fading competition around.
KATO runs its own Fade Contest. Entries are open internationally, and the jeans have to start raw, they have to be KATO, and you have to fade them naturally through wear—that goes without saying.
Winners are picked at the end of August and December, with a $200 KATO gift card for each winner. If you’re willing to part with your jeans after the competition, KATO even accepts worn-in pairs in exchange for new ones.
If you already have a pair of KATOs that qualify, you might as well consider entering. And if you’re looking for a pair to join with—or you’re new to the brand—start with my KATO brand profile to understand what makes their jeans different.
From the Archive: How to Spot a Well-Made Tee
This one isn’t exactly ancient history. We published it at the end of June, just before my summer break.
But it belongs here because it’s part of the series of this week’s jeans guide: learning how to judge quality from the product itself rather than relying on the label, the price, or the marketing around it.
For T-shirts, we identified 8 things to look for, including loopwheeled fabric, single-stitch hems, bound collars, flat-locked seams, better cotton, and close-to-home manufacturing.
So far, we’ve done tees and jeans. There are a few other obvious categories we will likely give the same treatment over the coming months.
The post How to Judge the Quality of Jeans appeared first on Denimhunters.
DENIM and PATCHES sourced this post originally published on this site
Wrangler x Lainey Wilson F/W 2026 Collection
Following up on their Summer 2026 collaboration, Wrangler and Lainey Wilson have now partnered up again for their Fall and Winter 2026 collection. This collaboration trades Lainey’s usual boho-Western signature for something even bolder.
This marks Lainey’s latest collaboration with Wrangler, following her ongoing role as a brand ambassador, and continues to lean into the crossover moment she’s having across music, film and fashion.
The new collection blends ’70s free-spirit energy with Western heritage and vintage glamour. Think plush faux fur, dark denim, soft chenille and flowing silhouettes, all with Lainey’s unmistakable grit-meets-glam point of view.
The Fa;;/Winter 2026 collaboration capsule is now available to purchase on the Wrangler website.
The post Wrangler x Lainey Wilson F/W 2026 Collection first appeared on Denimology.
DENIM and PATCHES sourced this post originally published on this site
RE/DONE – “The Unexpected Muse” Fall 2026
RE/DONE positioned its Fall 2026 collection, “The Unexpected Muse,” as a new chapter for the brand, led creatively by Meredith Kahn and Phillip Prado.
The concept centers on women who influence fashion simply through their individuality rather than being conventionally styled as muses.
For your denim trend tracking, the important part is the collection’s shift toward refined, understated denim rather than overtly distressed vintage denim.
“This season isn’t about transformation. It’s about recognition. The realization that inspiration doesn’t need to be chased— it often arrives disguised as collaboration. And once you see it, you can’t unsee it.”
Key Fall 2026 denim direction
- Heritage denim, modernized – RE/DONE continues to draw on vintage American denim but approaches it with a more contemporary, polished attitude.
- Masculine codes for women – Workwear and traditionally masculine denim references are softened and made more sensual. This is one of the collection’s stated contrasts.
- Structure + ease – The collection emphasizes structured pieces balanced by softer, more intuitive silhouettes.
- Vintage influence without costume – Instead of simply reproducing old Levi’s-inspired pieces, the Fall 2026 approach uses heritage references as a foundation for new proportions. Quiet sensuality, denim is part of a broader move toward clothes that feel less aggressively styled and more naturally worn.
- Rinse/dark denim remains relevant – This fits the larger Fall 2026 move toward dark indigo, cleaner washes and more sophisticated denim.
Resuming, the Fall 2026 collection is an interesting counterpoint to the ripped/distressed jeans we’ve come to associate with RE.DONE. And it shows that the vintage-denim story doesn’t necessarily require heavy destruction. Authenticity and construction can provide the vintage feeling instead.
You can purchase RE/DONE clothing at MYTHERESA, Nordstrom, and at Bloomingdale’s.
The post RE/DONE – “The Unexpected Muse” Fall 2026 first appeared on Denimology.
DENIM and PATCHES sourced this post originally published on this site
Z SUPPLY Has Entered The “DENIM Chat”!
California lifestyle brand, Z Supply, is showing up [guns blazing] with the launch of its permanent five-pocket premium denim collection.
Marking a meaningful evolution to the brand and expansio of key categories (which also include RTW, lounge, and eyewear) – Z SUPPLY has introduced six foundational silhouettes priced from $138-158, with sizes ranging from 24-31. Every fit was designed to flatter, every fabric chosen for comfort, and every wash created to feel modern and timeless.
Without further adu, meet your maybe soon-to-be new fave denim to live in!
This denim capsule is now live and available to shop on the brand’s website.
The Stunner, – a Mid-Rise Wide Leg
The mid-rise jean sits comfortably on the hips. The silhouette keeps it modern with slightly bowed wide legs, and the look of vintage denim with comfort you will appreciate.
The Show Off – High Rise Bowed
Features a relaxed bowed leg creating a flattering shape – keep it cuffed for a cropped, warm-weather-friendly look, or uncuff it for extra length and pair it with a heel or a boot.
The Off Duty – Mid-Rise Bowed Ankle
Sits comfortably just below your natural waist and has a relaxed fit through the hips. The slightly bowed leg gives it a fresh, modern shape.
The Studio – Modern Boot
A fit that contours and flatters your shape, gives you legs for days, and also feels incredibly comfortable.
The Muse – High-Rise Straight
Our take on the classic straight-leg jean, the high-rise creates a flattering fit through the waist and clean straight silhouette make it one of the most versatile styles
The Head Turner = High-Rise Wide Leg
Rigid fabric with authentic texture and a vintage-inspired wash featuring a wide-leg with a forward seam detail creating a fresh, modern look
The post Z SUPPLY Has Entered The “DENIM Chat”! first appeared on Denimology.
DENIM and PATCHES sourced this post originally published on this site
Your Shortcut to the Raw Denim Restocks and Releases
The 2026 Back-to-Work Issue: Everything I Snoozed in My Inbox While I Was on Holiday
Three weeks away from your desk go by surprisingly fast when you’re having the time of your life. It’s a cliché if there ever was one, but this summer holiday has truly been the best we’ve ever had as a family 🥰
Before we left, I wrote and scheduled the previous four Weeklies, which tell the story behind the New to Raw Denim series. Not a single word of those issues was written from the road. That means this is the first one I’ve actually sat down to write in almost a month.
While I was away, launches, restocks, and updates kept landing in my inbox. As I was trimming my inbox in the morning (while the family was sleeping in), I “snoozed” the emails with news I wanted to share in this back-to-work issue—so you’re getting a full month of “things worth your attention.”
In This Issue of the DH Weekly
- A tribute to Roy Slaper
- The final monthly Indigo Invitational submission
- A full month of restocks and new releases from all your favourite brands and retailers
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I also send these out as emails every Friday. If you’re not already subscribed and want future DH Weeklies delivered straight to your inbox, you can sign up below.
Remembering Roy Slaper
A few weeks ago, the raw denim scene lost one of its true originals. Roy Slaper, the man behind Roy Denim, passed away.
When I started this site, Roy was already a legend on the forums. I never got to meet him or get my hands on a pair of his jeans. I never even told his story. Not because I didn’t want to. It simply just never happened.
While putting this issue together, I went back through old emails and notes and realised that we’d asked to interview him for Blue Blooded. But Roy was a very private person. He wasn’t interested in the spotlight.
So I’m not one to tell his story, but I can point you towards a few tributes from people who actually knew him. If you want to understand why Roy became such a mythical figure in the world of raw denim, read these:
- SFGATE – An obituary built around memories from Kiya Babzani, Tilden Yamamoto, and David Shuck.
- Albert Muzquiz – A personal remembrance of meeting Roy, and a reflection on both the myth and the man.
- Indigoshrimp – Roy’s passing brought one of the original denim bloggers back for the first time in years.
Thank you, Roy. Rest in peace.
One Last Monthly Submission
On a much lighter note, I haven’t been wearing my Weirloom jeans much this past month. They’re great for most occasions, but they’re not beachwear.
Whether you’ve been wearing your jeans or not, today—Friday 7 August—is the deadline for the final monthly submission in this year’s Indigo Invitational.
We’re into the last month now, so don’t stop. I’m back on the judging panel this year, and I can’t wait to see how everyone’s jeans end up.
A Full Month of Restocks and New Releases
Now for the inbox backlog. There was plenty to catch up on, so I’ve organised the highlights by merchant—and by category where the lists get especially long.
Redcast Heritage
The team at Redcast clearly didn’t take much of a summer holiday. New arrivals and restocks have been landing every week, with no sign of slowing down. The T-shirts alone could almost have filled an issue.
T-shirts
- The Strike Gold loopwheeled T-shirts – Core colours restocked, with Light Charcoal and Olive added for the season.
- Whitesville heavyweight pocket T-shirts – Back in core and seasonal colours.
- UES Ramayana T-shirts – The Suvin Gold cotton tees are back in pocket and plain versions across four colours.
- Wonder Looper Amami hand-dyed T-shirts – Only a few remain from the latest Amami-dyed release.
- Pure Blue Japan 11 oz. jersey – New T-shirts and sweatshirts in indigo and indigo black.
- Samurai Japanese cotton T-shirts – Back in three colours.
- Studio D’Artisan Amami Mud-Dyed collection – Loopwheeled T-shirts and an Aloha shirt dyed using traditional techniques from Amami Oshima.
- Studio D’Artisan Ishikawadai tubular tees – Seamless T-shirts made with yarn spun on the 1953 Ishikawadai machine.
- Buzz Rickson’s Government Issue T-shirts – WWII-inspired tubular tees restocked in white, olive, and black.
- The Flat Head 12 oz. raglan thermals – New colours in the brand’s tubular thermal for warmer weather.
- Trophy Clothing Utility Mil T-shirt – Now also available in Coyote.
Jeans
- Samurai jeans – The Otokogi, Cho-Kiwami, and Zero+ models are back.
- Sugar Cane 1940 Super Denim Collectibles Waist Overalls – A limited 50th-anniversary model based on WWII-era workwear.
- Sugar Cane 1947SW stonewashed jeans – Back for anyone who wants the vintage look without waiting for the fades.
- Pure Blue Japan 14 oz. XX Series jeans – The XX-005 Slim Straight and XX-013 Slim Tapered are back in PBJ’s slubby XX denim.
- Rogue Territory Strider River Wash jeans – A washed version of RGT’s 15 oz. selvedge, developed with an LA wash house.
- Graph Zero Natural Indigo and Kakishibu jeans – The 13 oz. natural indigo and persimmon tannin-dyed model is back.
- Graph Zero Kase Dyed jeans – The 15 oz. skein-dyed models return in indigo, green indigo, and black.
- Denime Lot. 224 66B jeans – The black selvedge interpretation of the 1966 Levi’s 501 has been restocked.
- Momotaro Standard jeans – Tokuno Blue denim is back across the Standard fits, with black versions available too.
Jackets, shirts, and sweats
- Samurai 10 oz. denim shirts – The Kamome, Hisho, and classic work shirt have all been restocked.
- Pure Blue Japan yarn-dyed indigo sweatshirt – Back in indigo and indigo black.
- Denime loopwheeled raglan sweatshirts – Restocked in yellow and dark heather grey.
- Rogue Territory River Wash Supply Jacket – The washed Supply Jacket is back, alongside the Waxed Canvas version in Tan and Olive.
- Studio D’Artisan sashiko collection – New arrivals include a 14 oz. Type II jacket and an indigo Noragi Boro work shirt.
- Sugar Cane 1953 Type II jacket – The “aged” version has returned.
Accessories
- Kobashi Studio leather belts – Hand-stitched Tochigi saddle leather belts with solid brass Kihon buckles.
- Kobashi Studio accessories – New chrysanthemum bandanas and leather bandana rings, plus restocked brass accessories and the Standard Backpack.
- John Lofgren Champion sneakers – Now available in Solid Olive, made by Moonstar from 12 oz. selvedge chino cloth.
- Trophy Clothing Road Trip Bag – A new 42-litre travel bag made from heavyweight Japanese canvas with brass hardware.
Iron Heart
There have been plenty of exciting releases, but the main story this month is that the jeans are finally back in stock. After months of gaps across several core fits and denims, a substantial run of restocks has now landed.
Jeans
- 666-UHR – The slim-straight Devil’s Fit returns in what will probably be the final production run of UHR denim.
- 21 oz. 666 – The core heavyweight slim straight is fully restocked.
- 18 oz. 634 – Back after more than two years.
- 14 oz. 634 – The mid-weight straight fit has returned. I wore these—in the Ruedi collab, albeit—in Y4 of the II.
- 14 oz. Overdyed 634 – The overdyed black version is back too.
- 16 oz. Slubby 634 – Low-tension slubby denim in the classic straight fit. I wore these in Y3.
- 16 oz. Slubby 888 – Back in the relaxed-tapered fit.
Jackets and shirts
- Type II jacket – Back in the new 19 oz. right-hand twill selvedge.
- Iron Heart x Simmons Bilt Tailgunner – The Mustang horsehide collaboration returns.
- 17 oz. duck CPO shirt – The heavyweight duck-canvas overshirt is back.
- 8 oz. military whipcord CPO shirt – A lighter option for warmer weather.
T-shirts and knitwear
- 11 oz. cotton knit sweater – Restocked in all colours and sizes.
- 7.5 oz. loopwheel printed T-shirts – New 777 and 888 prints complete the jeans-fit series.
Footwear
- Iron Heart x Wesco Warren boots – A new collaboration in black roughout leather.
Franklin & Poe
The big news from Philly’s denim destination is ONI. Franklin & Poe has added the brand to its lineup, alongside two in-house launches, a new Easymoc collaboration, and several useful restocks.
- ONI Denim – New to Franklin & Poe, opening with the Kiraku and Long Slub collections.
- F&P Vintage T-shirts – The shop’s first in-house tee, cut and sewn in Los Angeles from a custom 9 oz. jersey based on vintage T-shirts from the 1970s and ’80s.
- Trademark Bandanas – USA-made bandanas with artwork by Philadelphia tattoo artist Topper, printed using discharge printing.
- Easymoc x Franklin & Poe – A new footwear collaboration accompanied by a film from inside Easymoc’s factory in Maine.
- Iron Heart jeans restocks – The 14 oz. 634, 18 oz. 634, and 21 oz. 666 have arrived.
- Samurai jeans – Three new 15 oz. denims join a restock of the 17 oz. Bushido S5100VX.
- Mister Freedom Pacific Denim – The 12 oz. denim arrives in the Lot. 64 jeans and Ranch Blouse.
- Sugar Cane engineer pants – Lightweight 9 oz. wabash-stripe work trousers based on 1930s railroad clothing.
- John Lofgren boots – The Wabash Engineer, El Capitan, and M-43 are back.
Tellason
The latest arrivals from San Francisco are a good reminder—if you needed one—that there’s much more to Tellason than five-pocket jeans.
- Selvedge denim fatigue pant – The relaxed fatigue shape in rinse-washed 11 oz. Italian selvedge. I’ve worn the shorts all summer, and this version looks excellent.
- Striped Oxford button-down shirt – A blue-and-white version of the Oxford I reviewed. This is probably the one I’d choose.
- Selvedge denim shawl-collar jacket – The same 11 oz. rinse-washed selvedge in a relaxed jacket.
- Utility shirt – Heavy brushed cotton in Chocolate and Ochre. My pick is Chocolate.
- White Oak selvedge work pant – Made in San Francisco from 13.5 oz. deadstock Cone Mills White Oak denim.
- White Oak selvedge Montana jacket – The matching chore jacket in the same deadstock denim.
- Cotton watch cap – Reclaimed cotton, made in the USA, three colours, $40.
Brooklyn Clothing Co.
The biggest launch was an exclusive Viberg retailer pack, but there was plenty more arriving in Calgary over the past month, including new shirts, Japanese brands, and a sizeable Iron Heart restock.
- Viberg Roper boots – The exclusive pack comes in Muschio and Cuoio Maryam horsebutt.
- Iron Heart jeans restocks – The 14 oz. 634, 18 oz. 634, 21 oz. 666, and 16 oz. Slubby Overdyed 888 also arrived at Brooklyn.
- Iron Heart split-steer Type III jacket – Back in black and brown.
- Iron Heart CPO shirts – The 19 oz. indigo-and-black and 17 oz. duck versions have returned.
- Prequel exclusive shirts – Four shirts recreating fabrics found in century-old Japanese textile swatch books.
- Kato jeans – New arrivals in the Hammer and Barrel fits.
- Samurai Tropical Weather shirt – A breathable military-inspired work shirt woven at a century-old mill in Banshu.
- The Flat Head jackets – A 1940s-inspired denim jacket and two coveralls.
- Anonymous Ism socks – New FW26 colours and styles.
KATO
The LA-based brand’s emails don’t just push product; the past month mixed the start of FW26 and the second White’s drop with stories about how the denim is made, as always, presented through a visual language that’s unmistakably KATO.
- KATO x White’s Triple Black Series – The Derby Oxford is the second chapter, following the Semi-Dress boot. U.S.-only and mostly sold out, but worth a look.
- The Pen Slim – Sven 10.5 oz. selvedge – A bright, bleached wash with an orange cast in KATO’s lightweight 4-WAY STRETCH SELVEDGE®.
- The Hammer Straight – Charlie 14 oz. selvedge – A softly faded straight fit with the same warm, vintage direction.
- How KATO indigo-dyes its denim – A look inside the Japanese mill, from warping and rope dyeing to oxidation.
- What is selvedge denim? – KATO’s own beginner explainer on selvedge, raw denim, Japanese weaving, and rope dyeing.
- Made in the USA – A behind-the-scenes look at cutting, sewing, washing, and finishing in the U.S. using Japanese fabrics.
Gustin
Continuously launching new, interesting, and sometimes surprising fabrics is a big part of what Gustin does, and the past month has been no exception. The latest campaigns cover everything from lightweight and brightly coloured denim to natural dyes and unusual blends.
- Natural Indigo 2 – A 14 oz. Japanese selvedge dyed with plant-based indigo, something Gustin has offered only a few times.
- Heavy Black workshirt – A 14.5 oz. double-black selvedge workshirt.
- Japan Dobby Herringbone – Double-indigo herringbone available as five-pocket trousers and a workshirt.
- Japan Organic Persimmon Dye – Brown selvedge dyed with persimmon fruit, woven from heavily slubbed organic cotton.
- Indigo x Indigo Superlight – A 7.5 oz. double-indigo Japanese selvedge made for warmer weather.
- Crystal Ocean – A bright ocean-blue 14 oz. selvedge with slubby yarns and crosshatching.
- Purple Haze – The same 14 oz. construction in purple.
- Cashmere denim – Already fully funded, but still worth mentioning. The Japanese selvedge contains 20% cashmere, which is as unusual as it sounds.
Cultizm
The past month brought a steady run of new denim, clothing, accessories, and collaborations, with arrivals from both Japanese and North American brands.
- Naked & Famous Guardian II selvedge – A 14.25 oz. Japanese selvedge containing 20% Kevlar, available in several fits and a matching Type III jacket.
- Studio D’Artisan Ishikawadai jeans – The Ishikawadai selvedge arrives in regular- and wide-straight fits.
- Mister Freedom Trad selvedge – The Lot. 64 jeans and Ranch Blouse in a new 13.75 oz. Japanese denim developed with Sugar Cane.
- Naked & Famous Harionago selvedge – A hairy 14 oz. Japanese selvedge inspired by Japanese folklore, available in three fits.
- ONI Weapon trousers – Back in three colours.
- Rogue Territory – The dry-waxed Supply Vest and washed Japanese selvedge Field Shirt have arrived.
- Kaptain Sunshine x Paraboot Montana – A limited version of the classic hiking shoe.
- North Works x Cultizm – An exclusive Japanese-made necklace using vintage US coins and turquoise.
- Martin Faizey belts – The British maker’s handmade leather belts have been restocked.
That’s a full month of emails cleared—and probably the longest product section I’ve ever put into a Weekly.
I’m back at my desk now, so next week’s issue should be closer to normal. Whatever that means.
One last thing. I’m curious to hear what you think of this issue. It’s a wall of links, I know, but that was on purpose. Send me an email if you have any feedback, good or bad.
The post Your Shortcut to the Raw Denim Restocks and Releases appeared first on Denimhunters.
DENIM and PATCHES sourced this post originally published on this site
Junya Watanabe Spring 2027 Mens Denim
The Junya Watanabe Spring 2027 menswear collection continued the designer’s long-running exploration of workwear and technical tailoring.
And denim was one of the key materials. Rather than classic five-pocket jeans, Watanabe treated denim as a fabric for reconstruction and experimentation.
And if you’re looking for some real stand-out jeans – Watanabe definitely is the designer to look for! Think cout-out jeans, or denim adorned with ruffles, among other details.
Key denim trends include jeans and jackets cut apart and reassembled with asymmetric paneling and visible seams. Multiple denim washes were combined into a single garment, emphasizing handcrafted construction. Contrast panels gave garments a repaired, upcycled appearance rather than a distressed one.
As for the washes – while faded blue appeared throughout, darker indigo denim remained an important anchor, reinforcing the season’s broader move toward richer washes.
Unlike brands emphasizing embellishment or heavy distressing, Watanabe’s denim focused on construction as decoration—using pattern cutting, fabric splicing, and tailoring to create visual interest rather than relying on rips, studs, or prints.
You can shop for Junya Watanabe at Farfetch, YOOX, and at MYTHERESA.
The post Junya Watanabe Spring 2027 Mens Denim first appeared on Denimology.
DENIM and PATCHES sourced this post originally published on this site