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How Should Jeans Fit? 4 Ways to Tell That Your Jeans Are Too Small

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Image from Pixabay

You probably own several pair of jeans that fit differently, but they’re all in your size, which begs the question, how should jeans fit?

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For a long time, I thought if my jeans didn’t fall without a belt, they were the perfect fit. But boy was I wrong!

HOW SHOULD JEANS FIT?

In an ideal world, every pair of jeans that came in your size would fit like a glove. But we don’t live in a perfect world, and there’s no universal denim sizing chart.

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As a result, you should expect every brand of jeans to fit your body differently. I know, not what you were expecting. But there’s good news! It’s possible to find the perfect fit no matter the brand you choose.

So how should jeans fit?

The answer to this question depends on what type of jeans you’re shopping for.

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WOMEN’S FIT GUIDE

When it comes to women’s jeans, the best fit is the one that accentuates your curves and draws attention in all the right places. And lucky for you, there are several options to choose from.

If you have a small midsection but want to create the illusion of a longer torso, low-rise jeans are the way to go.

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Flared jeans, on the other hand, are an excellent choice if you’re going for a more balanced look. They’re perfect for all body shapes and enhance the appearance of your legs length, which is always a good thing.

For ladies who have curvier hips and a fuller belly, a straight leg will flatter your curves the most because it’s excellent for balancing proportions.

And if you want to flatter, lengthen, and balance your shape, a high-rise pair of jeans will never disappoint.

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female model wearing jeans

Image from Pixabay

Skinny jeans are also an excellent option, mainly because they work on all body shapes and sizes.But for best results, you always have to ensure you have every type of jeans in the right size. And when it comes to size, the only way to tell is to try them on!

MEN’S JEANS FIT GUIDE

man wearing jeans

Image from Pixabay

Men have it a bit easier compared to women, but they still struggle with the question, “how should jeans fit?” So let’s find out what the process entails.

The first thing a man should look for in a pair of jeans is the length. To achieve a sophisticated look, you need to go for pants that are long enough to have a half or full break.

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Next, consider how the jeans fit your thighs. The denim should be comfortable and not pull at the knees when you bend or walk. You should also be able to pinch at least half an inch of the fabric away from your thigh and a maximum of one inch.The waist and seat of your jeans are also crucial. Always ensure your jeans are tight enough on your waistline that they don’t require a belt to hold them in place.And guys, ensure the pants are sitting in the right place. They should be anywhere between the mid and upper hip area. Not lower than that. So pull them up!

HOW DO YOU KNOW IF JEANS ARE TOO SMALL?

Besides figuring out the answer to “how should jeans fit?”, you’re probably also asking, “how do you know jeans are too small?”

In this era of skinny jeans, it’s challenging to know when your jeans are too tight or small. After all, isn’t the purpose skinny jeans to fit like a glove? True. But these tell-tale signs will let you know when need to go a size higher.

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HOW DOES YOUR BUM LOOK?

jeans

Image from Pixabay

How your booty looks in the jeans is a sure way to tell if you got a size too small. If the jeans make your bum look flat or create creases unflatteringly, there’s a high chance you have a small pair.

The right size should flatter your curves from every angle.

IF YOU HAVE TO DO THIS

How many times do you have to jump to break into your jeans? Before I knew the answer to “how should jeans fit?” I thought jumping to fit into your jeans was part of the process. I mean, how else are you supposed to get into skinny jeans?

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But this shouldn’t be the case. It should be easy for you to put on your denim pants. Once, they’re on, do the sitting test. If you feel the need to unbutton or unzip the pants, get a bigger size.

SURE SIGNS OF EXTREME TIGHTNESS

Another sign that your jeans are too small is if the zipper keeps slipping down when you have the jeans on. Apart from this, you’ll also notice a lot of wrinkling, especially in the crotch region.

Stretched out seams and folding waistbands are also sure ways to tell if your pants are too small.

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HOW DO YOU KNOW IF JEANS FIT?

how to know if the jeans fit

Image from Pixabay

The answer to the question, “how should jeans fit?” is not complete if you don’t know what to look for when shopping for jeans.

To ensure you have the perfect fit, consider these factors.

EXAMINE THESE AREAS

One of the areas you should concentrate on when trying to find the right pair of jeans is the crotch. If you notice a lot of bunching in the crotch area, the jeans aren’t the right fit. And if you’re still uncertain, check the back inseam. If it’s leaning more towards your left or right cheek, it’s too small.

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Another critical area to examine is the ankles. If the pants are bunching near your feet, you should reevaluate your size.

It’s also essential to examine the comfort of the waist and crotch. If you feel uncomfortable when sitting down, there’s a high chance your jeans are too small. You shouldn’t feel like they are cutting off your circulation or need to unbutton the pants every time you sit. What’s more, the zipper should stay put at all times.

There should also be a need to unbutton or unzip your jeans when you want to wear or take them off. It may be convenient to have a pair of jeans that you can slip on and off without messing with the zipper, but such jeans don’t flatter your body.

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Levi's Men's 501 Original-Fit Jean

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Wrangler Authentics Men's Classic 5-Pocket Regular Fit Cotton Jean

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Levi's Men's 505 Regular Fit Jean

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WRINKLES

Another thing I thought was part of wearing jeans is wrinkling. In fact, if my jeans didn’t wrinkle, I thought they were too big, and so I got a smaller pair. But I was also wrong about this.

You see, there are two types of wrinkles in jeans, and they mean different things. The first is the outward facing wrinkles, which indicate your jeans are too big. The other type is inward facing lines, which are a sign that your jeans are too small.

Therefore, if you want the perfect fit, stay away from the wrinkles.

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POCKET ALIGNMENT IS KEY

Pockets aren’t only excellent for depicting poor fit, but also a great indicator of poor construction.

So how should your pockets look? The back pockets should be well centered around your cheek and cover the middle third of your backside if the jeans are the correct fit. Besides, they should never extend to your cheek curve or rest on your thighs!

The front pocket, on the other hand, should remain in the front and shouldn’t align against your leg.

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IT’S THE JEANS, NOT YOU

It’s easy to get frustrated with yourself when none of the jeans you try on seem to fit the way you need them to. But when this happens, you need to keep in mind that all jeans are made different. To find the right pair, you’ll need to try on several of them.

And if you find a pair that mostly fits, remember there’s always the possibility of getting the jeans altered if you really don’t want to let them go. With this in mind, draw a line between what’s achievable and what might be too much work.

HOW CONFIDENT ARE YOU?

And last but not least, always use your confidence as an indicator. How confident do you feel in the jeans? Would you wear them out without getting too self-conscious? The answer to these questions is an excellent indicator of whether or not you have the right fit.

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So always take some time to think about how you feel in the jeans before making a final decision. It may also help to compare the pants with other options to find out which one gives you the most confidence.

WRAPPING UP

Now that we’ve answered “how should jeans fit,” we’re confident you’ll have an easier time finding the right pair of jeans for your needs. However, expect to face a few challenges here and there when shopping for denim because as we said, all jeans are made different and there’s no universal sizing chart.

Nonetheless, with practice, you’ll surely get better at identifying the best fit without going through so much trouble.

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Are you now more confident about shopping for jeans? Do you have any other tips for finding the best fit that we didn’t mention? Please share your thoughts and views in the comments section below. It’s always a joy to hear from our readers.

DENIM and PATCHES sourced this post originally published on this site

How to Wear a Denim Jacket (And Why They’ll Never Go out of Style)

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Virtually everyone has a jean jacket in their wardrobe, but not everyone knows how to wear a denim jacket. Denim jackets have been around since 1880, and are seen as a wardrobe staple, giving a classic Americana vibe.

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I know for me personally, my denim jackets are worn all year round. I have a few of them in different styles and colors, and they make planning an outfit incredibly simple. A denim jacket is the main focal point for any outfit, so styling around it isn’t too hard once you get the hang of it.

Denim jackets can be paired with any outfit, any accessories, and you can wear them for any season or occasion. You just need to know how to style it.

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How to Wear a Denim Jacket: Tips and Tricks for Every Type

When you think of how to wear a denim jacket, you might think that there aren’t many different options. However, that couldn’t be further from the truth!

Denim jackets come in so many different colors, styles, and prints. They can be dressed up or down, and can be worn in every season — you just have to know what to pair it with.

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When you’re choosing a denim jacket, you have to choose the style that works best for you.

Are you petite, looking for a cropped light-wash denim jacket?

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Do you have a grungy style, so you’re looking for a denim jacket that’s over-sized in a vintage wash?

Or maybe you work in an office setting, so you’re looking for a denim jacket to dress down your outfit on casual Fridays.

Regardless, the possibilities on how to wear a denim jacket are truly endless, but you can definitely spark your creativity by looking into different options.

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Classic blue denim jacket

When you think of a denim jacket, you most likely picture the classic blue denim jacket. A blue denim jacket is every woman’s BFF in her closet. It’s a staple and is exceptionally versatile.

Blue denim jackets are available almost everywhere, in countless washes, price points, and sizes.

Ways to wear a blue denim jacket:

Crisp white denim jacket

Not many people think of white when they picture a denim jacket, but it instantly makes any outfit clean and fresh.

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A white denim jacket elevates an outfit and can make you look more polished.

Ways to wear a white denim jacket:

Edgy black denim jacket

Adding a black denim jacket will immediately give you a cool vibe. It’s another extremely versatile layer, and you can wear it so many different ways.

Ways to wear a black denim jacket:

Fashion-forward over-sized denim jacket

An oversized denim jacket is an excellent choice if you’re looking to experiment a little bit and get outside your comfort zone.

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Ways to wear an over-sized denim jacket:

  • Over a dress or skirt to offset it
  • Paired with white jeans to bring them into fall
  • Balance a sexy outfit, like heels and a skin-tight pair of jeans

Grungy distressed denim jacket

A distressed denim jacket is excellent for balancing a feminine outfit or pairing with a grungy outfit.

Ways to wear a distressed denim jacket:

  • Paired with a dress or maxi skirt
  • Mix the entire outfit: pair with a t-shirt and maxi skirt

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  • Over-sized with heel booties
  • Paired with black jeans

Frame-fitting cropped denim jacket

A cropped denim jacket is ideal for those with a petite frame. You’re also able to show off your curves perfectly, and accentuate your long legs.

Ways to wear a cropped denim jacket:

Layered sleeveless denim jacket

A sleeveless denim jacket, or a denim vest, is a fantastic layering piece. You can even DIY a regular denim jacket into one if the sleeves become too short.

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Ways to wear a sleeveless denim jacket:

  • Layer over a jumpsuit
  • If you have a longer silhouette, pair an over-sized one with a mini dress

How to Wear a Denim Jacket in Every Season

Although many people tend to wait until the springtime to break out their denim jacket, you can actually use them during any season.

Not sure how to wear a denim jacket during the other seasons?

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  • Summer: paired over your outfit on a breezy night
  • Fall: paired with a shirt and over-sized scarf
  • Winter: worn under a winter coat, giving a chic vibe
  • Spring: the best season for a denim jacket, can pair with anything

Wearing a Denim Jacket for Every Occasion

You also may think that a denim jacket can only be worn for casual occasions, but that’s not the case either. A denim jacket can dress any outfit down just as easily as it can dress up any outfit.

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We have shown you some perfect options for how to wear a denim jacket for every occasion above, but just as a recap, you can wear a denim jacket for virtually every occasion.

Here are some occasions when it’s perfect to wear a denim jacket:

  • Date night (pair it with a skirt and flats or heels)

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  • Running errands or picking up your kids (paired with jeans and a striped t-shirt)
  • Summer campfire (paired with denim shorts and sneakers)
  • Graduation party (pair with a colorful dress, sandals, and bold sunglasses)
  • Shopping in the city (paired with a maxi dress, sunglasses, and Fedora)

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The History of Denim Jackets

Since its debut in 1880, a denim jacket has been thought of by many people as a classic American look. When you think of how to wear a denim jacket, it can be useful to take a look at how they even came about in the first place, and how we’ve seen them worn in the past.

The first denim jacket was created in 1880 by Levi Strauss. It was ideal for laborers because the horizontal seams holding down pleats could be removed to give extra room.

What was once known as a uniform for manual labor, quickly became a wardrobe staple in virtually everyone’s closet.

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  • 1880: Levi’s Triple Pleat Blouse designed by Levi Strauss
  • 1955: James Dean featured denim jacket in “Rebel Without A Cause”
  • 1961: Marilyn Monroe featured denim jackets as a staple in her wardrobe
  • 1962: Rock ‘n Roll and denim go hand in hand

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  • 1970: Model of the decade, Veruschka, modeled in a denim jacket and jeans
  • 1971: John Lennon wore lots of denim jackets, adding personal touches like boutonnieres
  • 1980: Big shoulders and boxy silhouettes in fashion, making denim jackets perfect

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  • 1984: Bruce Springsteen featured an all-denim wardrobe on the “Born in the USA” album
  • 1991: Geena Davis in Thelma & Louise featured a well-known look with a denim jacket
  • 1992: Claudia Schiffer made denim a 90s statement in an ad with Guess

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  • 2001: Madonna featured denim-on-denim in her “Ray of Light” video
  • 2001: Britney Spears and Justin Timberlake debuted their iconic all-denim outfits on the red carpet
  • 2013: Miley Cyrus and Rihanna featured denim jackets out and about

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Are denim jackets still in style?

The short answer is yes, of course, denim jackets are still in style!

You can see celebrities and everyday people wearing denim jackets out and about daily. And they are still featured in fashion runway looks.

Numerous retailers still make them. Plus, washes and fits of denim jackets are only growing.

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Where to Buy a Denim Jacket

Honestly, you can find a denim jacket at virtually any retailer. They’re a little easier to find when spring clothing comes out, but they can generally be found all year.

When shopping in-store, you can find them at most major retailers. The best jean jackets can be found at denim shops, such as Levi’s or Lucky Brand.

When shopping online, you can find denim jackets virtually anywhere. Simply search “denim jacket,” and a slew of results will pop up. Two of the most famous ones to look for are by Levi’s and Wrangler, both of which get high ratings.

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Making a Denim Jacket a Staple in Your Wardrobe

Now that you know a little bit more about how to wear a denim jacket, you probably are wanting to go shopping to find different washes, styles, and colors. I know I am!

Denim jackets have never gone out of style, and it’s pretty safe to say that they never will. They give such a classic look that it’s hard to make a denim jacket look bad.

Do you have a favorite way of wearing your denim jacket?

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Let us know in a comment. We’d love to hear about it!

DENIM and PATCHES sourced this post originally published on this site

WEWOREWHAT x Joe’s Jeans Collaboration

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Joe's

The WEWOREWHAT x Joe’s Jeans Spring 2026 collaboration just launched this past week, It is a Western-inspired denim capsule built around festival and vintage Americana styling.

Joe's

Designed with Joe’s Jeans for the soon-to-happen festival season…and everything beyond. Denim that takes you everywhere. Effortless, lived-in, and just a little undone.

Western jeans

The brand describes the collection as “denim that takes you everywhere. Effortless, lived-in, and festival-ready.”

This is their second major collaboration with WEWOREWHAT /s Danielle Bernstein and Joe’s Jeans.

denim
jeans

The 17-piece collection ranges from $60 classic cotton tops to a $900 showstopping leather fringe jacket.  The whole capsule is now available to shop for on the Joe’s Jeans website.

The post WEWOREWHAT x Joe’s Jeans Collaboration first appeared on Denimology.

DENIM and PATCHES sourced this post originally published on this site

Why “Just Size Up” Doesn’t Work with All Shrink-to-Fits

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Get the Size Wrong, and There’s No Fixing It

I love shrink-to-fit jeans. Most of the one I’ve worn fit brilliantly. But I’ve also made mistakes. 

In the early days of Denimhunters, I convinced Levi’s to send me a stack of LVC 501 jeans—different years, different fabrics—that I had readers wear them for months to see how they shrank and broke in.

Why? I wanted to understand how shrink-to-fit works. 

Because even when you think you’ve got it figured out, unsanforized denim doesn’t behave the same from one pair to the next. And that’s where most people get it wrong.

In this Issue of the DH Weekly

I have a soft spot for shrink-to-fit jeans. It can so rewarding to wear and fade, but it can also be a disaster. To help you choose the right pair from the start, we’ve put together a guide to shrink-to-fit selvedge.

The Problem with Shrink-to-Fit

“Just size up, and they’ll shrink to fit.” That’s how shrink-to-fit is often framed—including by Levi’s Vintage Clothing: buy ‘em big, and they’ll shrink down to fit.

But it’s not that simple. Some pairs shrink down to the tagged size. Others start oversized, so you need to size down. And some even require you to size up just to get a comfortable fit.

Indigofera Clint Shrink-to-Prima-Fit before and after
Shrink-to-fit jeans before and after shrinkage.

So when Bryan suggested we should do a shrink-to-fit selvedge guide, I didn’t have to think twice. Because if you don’t know how a specific pair behaves before you buy it, you’re just guessing—and with shrink-to-fit, there are no second chances once they’ve been soaked, you can’t return them.

We’ve rounded up more than a dozen of the best shrink-to-fit selvedge brands—and, more importantly, broken down how each of them shrinks and whether you need to size up, down, or go true to size. This guide helps you get that right the first time.

Get the DH Weekly Emails

I also send my weekly updates as emails. If you’d like them in your inbox—along with links, product drops, and things I’m working on—sign up here:

The Challenge of Getting the Right Size

Tagged size used to match actual measurements—what’s known as true-to-size (TTS). So a size 34 would measure 34 inches in the waist.

That changed with vanity sizing. Today, a tagged 34 often measures 35, 36 or even 37 inches, depending on the brand. Heritage selvedge brands—especially Japanese repro makers—tend to stick closer to TTS, but there’s no universal standard anymore.

With shrink-to-fit, it gets even trickier. Now you’re not just dealing with whether a brand uses TTS or vanity sizing—you also need to know whether the tagged size refers to the jeans before shrinkage or after.

With that little explainer out of the way, I wanted to share my two cents on a few of the brands in the guide that I’ve actually worn myself.

Indigofera’s No. 2 “Shrink-to-Prima-Fit” Selvedge

This is one of those cases where the “size up one” rule actually works—if you know your size in the first place.

I’ve owned several pairs of Indigofera’s No. 2 denims—Clints, Kirks, even the Burg & Schild collab. It’s a 16 oz. selvedge with a lot of character; natural slubs and small imperfections. One of my first pairs has two clear weaving flaws, and it’s that kind of detail that makes it even more special to me.

One of my Indigofera Kirk jeans

In terms of sizing, you should size up one and expect them to land where you want. I wear a 31 in Indigofera’s sanforized jeans, but I go with a 32 in their shrink-to-fit pairs, and that’s worked consistently for me.

That said, this denim isn’t something you’ll always find in stock. Indigofera doesn’t offer it as a permanent part of the collection, so you need to catch the No. 2 when it’s available. And at this price point, you also want to be sure you’re getting it right.

Iron Heart Ultra Heavy Raw (UHR)

After wearing Indigofera more or less exclusively for 4–5 years, I got into Iron Heart in 2018—and, of course, I had to try their unsanforized UHR too.

I got mine in the same size as my other Iron Heart jeans, and that turned out to be the right call. Even though it’s loomstate and supposed to shrink, I didn’t find that it changed all that much in practice.

So rather than sizing up and relying on shrinkage, you’re better off starting close to where you actually want them to end up.

My Iron Heart UHR jeans (in the 888 fit)

That’s worth keeping in mind, because this is one of those pairs where you might expect a dramatic change after the first soak—but don’t necessarily get it. The denim is incredibly dense, and whatever shrinkage happens doesn’t fundamentally change the fit.

It’s also worth noting that Iron Heart calls this “raw” for a reason. Most of their jeans are rinsed, so if you want truly unprocessed denim from the brand, this is it.

Other Pairs from the Guide I’ve Worn

While Indigofera and Iron Heart have been my main rotation for more than a decade—until I launched my own brand, Weirloom—I’ve also spent time with several of the other denims in the guide along the way.

Warehouse’s Banner Denim and Studio D’Artisan’s SD-101, both in their unwashed versions, are good reminders that even when you think you’ve got shrink-to-fit figured out, different denims still behave in their own ways. 

Mister Freedom is another case, where the jeans are designed to shrink down to your tagged size—which sounds straightforward, but still depends on getting the starting point right.

And then there’s Big John. I had the chance to pick up a pair of their RARE jeans more than a decade ago, when Brund first stocked the brand—but I didn’t pull the trigger. I’ve regretted that ever since.

Getting Shrink-to-Fit Right

If you’re getting into shrink-to-fit—or coming back to it—it’s worth taking the time to get it right.

Because when it works, it’s hard to beat. The fabric, the fit, the way it fades. But when you get the sizing wrong, there’s no fixing it after the first soak. 

To avoid the guesswork and find a pair that actually works for you, start with our shrink-to-fit selvedge guide.

READ THE SHRINK-TO-FIT GUIDE

The post Why “Just Size Up” Doesn’t Work with All Shrink-to-Fits appeared first on Denimhunters.

DENIM and PATCHES sourced this post originally published on this site

DE: Part – Denim For Every Body!

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size inclusive

A few months ago we introduced you to a new denim brand, DE;Part. We love that this brand is all about size inclusivity, ranging from 00 to 24.

denim

For this Spring, the woman-owned and designed collection is a bold new voice in premium denim, offering high-quality denim in sizes 00-24. Each style has been specifically built to fit women of all forms.

Beginning with its core offerings of skinny, straight, bootcut, wide leg, slim and flare jeans in corresponding washes from its light Ellis, medium Sutton, and dark Gramercy. To correspond to this core offering, DE:Part also includes a range of tees and tanks, similarly developed for a variety of shapess.

skinny jeans

Explains founder Christina Choi, “DE:Part is new to the scene but not new to the game. We wanted to create a collection that doesn’t limit who can ‘fit in’. Every woman deserves to feel good in their jeans and we are redefining what it means to wear confidence by design inclusive styles that aren’t just graded up but specifically made to fit the wide range of feminine shapes that exist.”

DE:Part is designed and produced in Los Angeles. Blending expertly adapted designs, with a meticulous eye for detail, DE:Part will is available in sizes 00 to 24 with prices ranging from $158 to $188 and is sold exclusively on the brand’s website.

Let us add just one more thing which we would like you to know. Their jeans are made of a heavier stretch denim which really holds yout “stuff” together. It’s nothing like those lighter weight stretchy denims you ususually find out there. Also good to know is the fact that their jeans run absolutely true to size while their t-shirts are oversized for a looser fit.

Evoto
lookbook

The post DE: Part – Denim For Every Body! first appeared on Denimology.

DENIM and PATCHES sourced this post originally published on this site

Introducing Carve Designs @ Denimology

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fashion

Carve Designs was founded in 2003 by lifelong friends Thayer Sylvester and Jennifer Hinton after a surf trip to San Pancho, Mexico.

denim

They realized it was nearly impossible to find board shorts for real women with real bodies and a genuine passion for adventure. Starting as a surf apparel brand selling rash guards and boardshorts,

jeans

Carve Designs has since evolved into a full lifestyle brand, offering swim, fitness, denim, and lifestyle clothing. Designed in California by female designers who test every piece themselves, the brand is dedicated to creating effortless, versatile clothing that reflects the adventurous, bold women who wear it. 

denim jacket

Sustainability

Sustainability is the foundation for Carve Designs. From the very beginning, the founders made sustainable practices core to how they built the brand.

Today, 100% of their line uses recycled or upcycled materials, 100% of their packaging is also made from recyclable materials and is recyclable, and zero toxic chemicals are used throughout production.

Carve Designs focuses on responsibly sourced fabrics, safe dyes and finishes, and reducing environmental impact through various partnerships. Their approach emphasizes clean fashion that protects both people and the planet. 

Carve Design’s denim is definitely worth having a look at. The brand is all about denim that fits like it was made for you.

denim tops

Crafted from soft, sustainable fabrics with just the right amount of stretch for everyday comfort and confidence. And also, all denims are made from non-GMO, organic cotton.

carve

Carve Designs denim is available to shop for on their website and at Nordstrom.

On a personal note{from your editor} – I really like the way they help you find your size on their website. Just go to the item you want and click on “find your size” 🙏

The post Introducing Carve Designs @ Denimology first appeared on Denimology.

DENIM and PATCHES sourced this post originally published on this site

Shrink-to-Fit Selvedge: How to Buy Unsanforized Jeans

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What You Need to Know Before Buying and Soaking Shrink-to-Fit Selvedge Jeans

Unwashed, unsanforized selvedge is one of the most rewarding and essential experiences you can have with a pair of jeans. The denims are drop-dead gorgeous, full of texture and character, and the fit can (if you get it right) be among the best you’ll ever experience.

But shrink-to-fit selvedge is also full of risks. The denim shrinks a considerable amount when washed or soaked, and no two denims are exactly alike. Before you dive in headfirst, you need to know exactly what you’re getting into. 

We’ve rounded up more than a dozen brands that make excellent shrink-to-fit selvedge jeans. To help you get the fit and size right, we’ll tell you something about how these denims perform when washed. If you’ve got to size up, go true to size, or size down, we’ll let you know. 

TL;DR – Our Favourite Brands for Unsanforized Selvedge

If you want to go straight to the best of unsanforized, shrink-to-fit, and loomstate selvedge, here are our top picks.

  • Big John RARE – Best Overall: The OG of Japanese selvedge, Big John’s RARE selvedge is as essential as they come.
  • Studio D’Artisan – Best Variety: With a wide range of unwashed and unsanforized options, SDA gives you a ton of options. 
  • Iron Heart UHR – Best Heavyweight: Tipping the scales at over 23 oz., Iron Heart’s Ultra Heavy Raw combines the worlds of heavy and unsanforized selvedge. 

For our complete list, click here to see the other brands that make excellent shrink-to-fit jeans. Before we get to the list, though, let’s talk a bit about the differences between the different kinds of dry selvedge denims.

Unsanforized, Shrink-to-Fit, Loomstate, and Unwashed: What’s the Difference?

Sometimes used on their own, sometimes in bunches, the terms unwashed, unsanforized, shrink-to-fit, and loomstate all say something about how either the denim or the assembled pair was treated before it arrived at the store.

Unwashed refers to pairs that have not been washed after they have been assembled into jeans. Unwashed pairs might be made from either sanforized or unsanforized denim.

Unsanforized refers to denim that has not been subject to the process of sanforization (defined below). Plenty of brands and retailers offer pairs that are unsanforized but have been washed once in the factory. Unwashed and unsanforized denim will shrink by as much as 10% when washed or soaked. 

Indigofera Clint Shrink-to-Prima-Fit before and after
Indigofera Clint No. 2 jeans before and after shrinkage.

Shrink-to-fit is the consumer-facing name used for denim that will shrink a considerable amount when washed or soaked for the first time. Shrink-to-fit denim is usually unsanforized, but some brands will label lightly sanforized pairs as shrink-to-fit. The denim will shrink when washed, but some brands’ pairs will shrink more than others.

Loomstate is the rarest and “rawest” of all denims. Loomstate denim hasn’t been washed or sanforized, and it has not been singed (removing the small hairs on the surface of the jeans) or skewed (pre-twisted to account for leg twist). It comes straight off the loom and into your hands.  

Warehouse’s iconic unsanforized and unwashed Banner Denim – Photo by Dant

In this guide, we’ll be looking exclusively at selvedge denims that are both unwashed and unsanforized. That means all of these denims are shrink-to-fit, but not all of them are loomstate.

The Best Shrink-to-Fit Selvedge Brands

Only a small number of brands produce unwashed and unsanforized jeans, and even fewer retailers stock them. 

The ones who do tend to be quite knowledgeable about what they’re selling, but don’t count on it. Do your research beforehand to make sure you’re getting the right product in the right size. 

Studio D’Artisan

Leaders in the Japanese selvedge revolution

It seems appropriate that Studio D’Artisan, who kickstarted the Osaka-based selvedge revolution in Japan way back in 1979, remain one of the best sources for true-blue, unwashed and unsanforized selvedge.

Brimming with gorgeous details like goatskin patches and tucked loops, and finished with Studio D’Artisan’s trademark graceful arcs, pairs from this brand can be found in the collections of serious denimheads the world over.

A top 10 finisher in Y4 of the Indigo Invitational showcased the fade potential of SDA’s unsanforized denims

Division Road has a wide range of unsanforized and unwashed SDA pairs to pick from. They also have very detailed information about pre- and post-wash sizing. They measure each new batch to make sure the sizing info is always precise, so use their post-wash measurements rather than the tagged size when choosing your pair and follow their detailed wash instructions.

BUY STUDIO D’ARTISAN

You can buy Studio D’Artisan from these retailers: Redcast Heritage (ES), Division Road (US), Brooklyn Clothing (CA), Hinoya (JP)

Levi’s Vintage Clothing

The true-blue original

This list wouldn’t be complete without a nod to the brand that started it all. Levi’s began using sanforized denim for their 501 jeans in the ‘80s, but LVC, their heritage arm, helped revive the true shrink-to-fit classic, first in Japan and then in the West.

While we feel that other brands in this space have snatched the throne away from the legacy denim titan, there is undeniably something special about the original. If only the true-blue classic will do, LVC does very good versions of their icons (recreated from archived pairs).

Heddels showcased these beautifully faded ‘67 LVC 505s

LVC’s “rigid” pairs are designed to be able to be purchased in your typical tag size. They’ve added a little more than an inch to the waist, so, after washing or soaking, they should fit perfectly. 

Some sources suggest that LVC pairs will shrink as much as two inches in the waist, but this seems quite high. It’s best to confirm pre-wash measurements and approximate shrinkage with retailers before purchasing.

BUY LVC JEANS

You can buy Levi’s Vintage Clothing at Cultizm (DE) and Hinoya (JP).

Big John

The first and arguably the greatest

The OG Japanese selvedge brand, Big John was behind nearly every denim innovation in Japan until they were joined by the Osaka heavyweights in the 80s.

Unsoaked and fully raw Big John RARE 008s

They introduced their RARE selvedge in 1980, and the pairs immediately set the bar extremely high for the selvedge brands that would follow in their wake. For our money, this is the best of the bunch.

RAREs after five months of wear in Y5 of the Indigo Invitational

You can find extremely detailed pre- and post-wash measurements for RARE jeans here. Raw pairs are considerably larger than their tag size, so you’ll likely need to size down. Use their post-wash measurements as a guide, but remember that they’ll likely stretch around half a size with wear.

BUY BIG JOHN JEANS

Big John is sold at Redcast Heritage (ES), Cultizm (DE), Hinoya (JP), and Franklin & Poe (US)

The Flat Head

The fade fanatic’s not-too-secret weapon

Thanks to their distinctive vertical texture and crisp denims that produce stunning contrasts, The Flat Head built themselves a stellar reputation in the scene. Fade enthusiasts recognised their unsanforized pairs as some of the best fade foundations going.

The Flat Head’s popular 3002 (left) and 3005 (right) cut in their legendary Pioneer Denim

Flat Head’s legendary 14.5 oz. Pioneer Denim, available in both unwashed and one-washed versions, remains some of the best unsanforized denim on the planet. The combination of sharp cuts and wild fade potential should make this one an easy choice.

This unsanforized denim can produce incredibly sharp contrasts when pushed

The unsanforized versions will fit true to size when they are dry, so this is one of those brands you’ll want to size up with. They’ll shrink a little more than they’ll stretch—so size up if you want a comfortable fit after the first soak.

BUY FLAT HEAD JEANS

The Flat Head is available at: Redcast Heritage (ES), Franklin & Poe (US), and Iron Shop Provisions (US)

Before we continue with the list, these tips will help you get the right fit and size:

Navigating the World of Unsanforized Selvedge

Buying shrink-to-fit selvedge is less forgiving than buying sanforized and pre-washed jeans. Get the sizing wrong, and you won’t be able to return the pair after the first soak. These tips will help you get that perfect fit the first time and every time after that.

Know your numbers: Making sense of the pre- and post-wash numbers depends on you knowing what kind of measurements you need (ideally to the decimal place). Waist size is the most important, but remember that shrink-to-fit pairs shrink everywhere. 

Do your research: Either the brand or the retailer (sometimes both) should have detailed information about the pair and how it will react to water. Every denim is different, so read this information carefully whenever it is available. If it isn’t available, ask for it.

Account for stretch: Remember that not all shrinkage is permanent. The pair will likely stretch by a few percentage points (especially in the waist). Aim for a snug fit around the waist after that first soak.

Start with the soak: It’s our advice to always start unwashed, unsanforized pairs with either a soak or wash. This will ensure that your combs and whiskers are set in the right place.

Dial it up or down: You can dial up or down shrinkage with temperature and agitation. For maximum shrink, put the washing machine on its hottest setting (make sure to turn off the spin cycle). For minimal shrink, a quick cold soak in the tub or in a bucket should do the trick.

Know your denim’s limits: Unwashed and unsanforized denim will shrink around a full tag size. Pairs that are much too large will likely remain too big after they’ve been soaked or washed (no matter how hot the water). 

Wait to hem: if you need to hem your jeans, either leave at least two inches more than you usually would or, even better, wait to hem them until after you’ve washed them at least once.

Okay, let’s get back to the list.

Denime

One old-timer to another

Since production for this brand was taken over by the denim wizards at Warehouse, the storied brand (a member of the Osaka Five) has been getting new looks from the world’s vintage-loving denimheads.

An unsoaked pair of Denime 220XX

For those who appreciate denim done the old-fashioned way, it doesn’t get much better than this. A true diamond in the rough, with a long track record of producing incredible fades.

A Reddit user shows off his pair of faded Denimes

Just like Warehouse, Denime pairs are considerably larger than their tag size. You’ll likely want to size down from your typical tag size to find your perfect post-soak fit. 

BUY DENIME JEANS

Denime (by Warehouse) is sold at Lost & Found (CA), Cultizm (DE), Hinoya (JP), and Clutch Café (UK).

The Real McCoy’s

The kings of made-in-Japan reproductions

It’s no surprise that The Real McCoy’s, the foremost name in made-in-Japan vintage reproductions, would make one of the best unsanforized pairs on the market.

Their 14.25 oz. selvedge is based on archived examples from the period. They spent more than two years developing this selvedge, and it’s widely regarded as one of the best vintage fade foundations in the scene.

For true-blue vintage fades, you can’t do much better than Real McCoy’s

Measurements are slightly larger than tag size, but you can expect these to shrink a little more than a full tag size. If you’re buying the unwashed version, sizing up is usually the safer option.

BUY THE REAL MCCOY’S

Real McCoy’s is available at Lost & Found (CA) and Clutch Café (UK)

Warehouse

Flying the banner of perfection

Warehouse would appear higher on this list if it wasn’t so darned hard to find pairs in stock anywhere. Production has slowed down to a crawl with the legendary Japanese brand, so if you see a pair in your size, get it while the gettings good.

Warehouse’s Banner Denim is widely regarded as one of the best (if not the best) reproduction of vintage Levi’s denim on the market. A treat for the hands and the eye, it fades to brilliant soft shades of blue.

This pair of Warehouse 1001XX placed third in Y3 of the Indigo Invitational

Warehouse are one of the few brands that require you to size down to get your perfect size. They will stretch out by almost a full inch, but will lose around an inch and a half when washed for the first time. Size down for a comfortable but snug fit.

BUY WAREHOUSE

Warehouse is sold at Lost & Found (CA), Cultizm (DE), Hinoya (JP), and Clutch Café (UK).

Mister Freedom

The connoisseur’s choice

With an unfathomably deep appreciation for the long history of American workwear, Christophe Loiron (the man behind Mister Freedom) works with deadstock fabrics to give his fans a true taste of the true-blue original. 

Their Lot. 64 Californian jeans boast some of the most distinctive back pockets in the game, plus mountains of fade potential. A great choice for those who want their pick to speak volumes about their discerning taste for denim labels. 

These Fade Friday featured Lot. 64s show why Mister Freedom has a cult-like following

To make things easy for you, these jeans have been engineered to shrink to a perfect tagged fit. This means that if they’re tagged as a size 32, they will shrink down to a 32-inch waist. You should be able to order them in your usual tag size. Still, as with all pairs, you should read the measurement chart carefully. 

BUY MISTER FREEDOM

You can buy Mister Freedom at: Franklin & Poe (US), Blue Beach Denim (TW), Cultizm (DE), Clutch Café (UK), Hinoya (JP)

Iron Heart

With a heavy heart and dry denim

Iron Heart is best known for their 21 oz. and 25 oz. selvedge, both of which are sanforized. They do, however, offer one unwashed and unsanforized selvedge: Ultra Heavy Raw (UHR).

Renowned for its dense feel and its unrivalled fade potential, the 21 oz. selvedge, which swells to 23 oz. when introduced to water, has earned legions of fans among the Iron Heart faithful.

The winner of the Western conference in Y4 of the Indigo Invitational faded these 634 UHRs to perfection

The jeans are larger than their tag size, so, with a vigorous wash, you can expect them to shrink down to something closer to the tag size. Don’t overcompensate by sizing up too much. If you’re between sizes or have questions, Iron Heart’s customer service team will help.

BUY IRON HEART JEANS

Iron Heart is available at: Division Road (US), Franklin & Poe (US), Brooklyn Clothing (CA), Iron Provisions (US), and of course at Iron Heart International.

Learn more about Iron Heart in this brand profile—or find a pair with our Iron Heart Jeans Guide.

Indigofera

Hitting the Swedish spot

From their earliest pairs, this Swedish brand has prided themselves on their ends-of-the-earth search for the best selvedge denim. They just might have found it with their No. 2 selvedge, which Thomas swears by.

Their STPF (shrink-to-prima-fit) denims are prized for their incredible fading properties. If you haven’t experienced an Indigofera pair yet, their loomstate pairs will likely turn you into a lifelong fan.

Regular fit, Indigofera, Clint jeans, raw denim, Japanese denim, denim fades
A pair of Indigofera No. 2 Clints, sized down for a slimmer fit—maybe too slim?

Thomas owns several pairs in the brand’s No. 2 denim and wears them in a 32, while he typically wears a 31 in Indigofera’s sanforized jeans. Sizing up is the safer move here—but as always, confirm measurements and shrinkage with the retailer before buying.

Indigofera is sold at: Franklin & Poe (US), Iron Shop Provisions (US), Blue Beach Denim (Taiwan), and Manready Mercantile (US)

Stevenson Overalls

Best design details in the game

With vintage hound Zip Stevenson at the helm, it’s no surprise that this brand continues to offer fully dry and unsanforized versions of their popular cuts.

An unsoaked pair of Stevenson Encitas

Deftly balancing traditional approaches with strikingly original details, Stevenson pairs are an excellent choice for those who want the best of the old and new worlds of denim.

A Reddit user faded these Encitas beautifully (note the crossed belt loops)

Stevenson add a considerable amount to their rigid pairs to account for shrinkage (more than you’ll likely need if you’re trying to get them down to their tag size). Confirm with your retailer, but you’ll likely want to size down for a snug fit. 

BUY STEVENSON JEANS

Stevenson is sold at: Redcast Heritage (ES), Cultizm (DE), Franklin & Poe (US), and Clutch Café (UK).

OldBlue

Putting Jakarta on the map

Closing out this list with our favourite Indonesian selvedge brand, which has started making inroads in North America and Europe thanks to their world-famous Heavyweight Beasts—a heavy and unsanforized pair that has long been a secret weapon for Indonesian faders.

Bryan’s pair, from fresh to faded

The fades produced on this pair have, since its introduction in 2011, put the world on notice that not just the faders but also the brands in Southeast Asia are among the world’s best. They sell out quickly, but are worth waiting for. 

Bryan’s pair is still going strong years later

The Heavyweight Beasts have been engineered to shrink down to their tag size, so you should be able to order in your typical size, but this is based on my experience with the brand four or five years ago. Before purchasing, confirm with the retailer that ordering your usual size will be your best choice with this pair.

BUY OLDBLUE JEANS

What is Unsanforized Selvedge?

Sanforization is a chemical and mechanical process, invented in 1928 and patented in 1930 by American engineer Sanford Lockwood Cluett, who was trying to solve the problem of shrinking shirt collars (his family owned the firm that manufactured Arrow shirts).

Through a combination of heat, moisture, and pressure, fabrics are subjected to complementary processes of shrinking and stretching. The result is fabrics that shrink very little (usually less than 5%) when washed for the first time.

Blue Bell (later to be Wrangler) and Lee introduced sanforized workwear in the 1930s. Levi’s, though, held out for decades, finally introducing sanforization to some of their pairs only in the 1960s. The iconic 501 remained an unsanforized, shrink-to-fit product until the brand bowed to consumer pressure and began sanforizing them in the 1980s.

For a more detailed and technical explanation of sanforization, visit our Denim Encylopedia.

Photos from Avid Vintage and True West Magazine

For decades, Levi’s marketed the bug of shrinking denim as a feature. To get the “perfect” fit, consumers would jump into the bathtub wearing their fresh and raw pair. This experience largely disappeared from the denim landscape until heritage enthusiasts, first in Japan and then in the rest of the world, resurrected it.

All the faded Levi’s from the ‘50s and ‘60s started as unfaded, unwashed, unsanforized pairs

Today, sanforized denims are the norm, even among top-shelf heritage brands. Consumers are as panicky as ever about shrinking denim, so it’s expedient for brands and retailers to make and sell either pre-washed or sanforized pairs that will shrink only a marginal amount. 

Still, some of us prefer unsanforized selvedge, finding charm in its appearance, feel, and performance. This is denim as its makers intended—the rough and unrefined combination of indigo and cotton. It’s something that needs to be experienced to be fully appreciated. 

So which is better, sanforized or unsanforized denim? We weigh in on this question below.

Is Unsanforized Selvedge Better than Sanforized?

Denim purists, who tend to be allergic to innovations, will tell you that unsanforized selvedge is the only true denim–the closest you can get to the true-blue, mid-century original.

A close-up of Big John’s unsanforized RARE selvedge

But this kind of uncompromising denim love isn’t just about historical fidelity. You get certain things with unsfanforized selvedge that you can’t get with sanforized or once-washed pairs: primarily character and handfeel.

A good side-by-side comparison from Heddels of unsanforized (left) and sanforized (right) selvedge

Sanforization results in a flattened and smoothened denim. Unfanforized denim has more loft and a hairier look and feel. It’s really only noticeable from very close up, but the small difference makes all the difference for denim purists.

There’s also the fact that unsanforized denim shrinks a considerable amount. Those who’ve been around the block with unsanforized pairs will tell you that the shrink-to-fit process produces an unmatched fit in the top block.

Pre and post soak with a pair of Big John RAREs

The denim shrinks slightly more where it is loose and slightly less where it meets resistance around your hips and thighs. When you get the sizing and soak right, the result is a fit that feels tailored to your body. It’s enough to turn the first-timer into a lifelong convert. 

Of course, sanforized denim has its benefits as well. It is far more predictable than its unsanforized cousin. Sanforized pairs tend to shrink somewhere in the range of 2-5%. This is roughly the same amount that they will stretch. Each time you wash the pair, it usually snugs up, returning to roughly the same size it was when you purchased it.

An unsanforized Real McCoy’s Type III before and after a partial soak (the body was soaked more thoroughly than the sleeves)

Unwashed sanforized denim shrinks somewhere in the range of 5-10% when introduced to water for the first time and will often continue shrinking for 2-3 subsequent washes. When it’s done shrinking, you can expect to have lost at least a full tag size in the waist and around 2-3 inches in the inseam.

Which is better? If you’ve never tried unsanforized denim before, the answer comes down to your risk appetite. Retailers and brands will not allow you to return pairs that have been soaked, so this is definitely one of those buyer beware moments.

If risk turns your stomach, stick with sanforized pairs (you’ll be spoiled for choice). If you’re willing to fly by the seat of your pants, you’ll be opening a door to some of the world’s most beautiful denims and best fits.

Close-Up of Faded Iron Heart UHR

You can mitigate the risks by following the steps we outlined above. The more you know about the particular product you’re interested in, the more likely you’ll be to get exactly what you want out of your unsanforized pair. Do your homework and there shouldn’t be any surprises. 

Complete the Vintage Look

Looking to complete the vintage look? Check out our guides to high-rise selvedge jeans and heritage chambray shirts. 

Keep Track of What I’m Working On

I’m Thomas, founder of Denimhunters. Once a week, I send an email with what I’m working on and writing—new guides, deals, and things worth paying attention to.

The post Shrink-to-Fit Selvedge: How to Buy Unsanforized Jeans appeared first on Denimhunters.

DENIM and PATCHES sourced this post originally published on this site