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Samurai Jeans is a legendary Japanese denim brand renowned for its high-quality construction, heavyweight selvedge fabrics, and obsessive attention to detail.

Founded in Osaka in 1997 by Toru Nogami, Samurai is one of the “Osaka Five” – a group of brands that sparked Japan’s raw denim movement in the late ’90s and early 2000s.

Core Philosophy

“Denim as armor”: Inspired by Samurai culture, the brand treats jeans like a modern warrior’s armor. Rugged, durable, and full of heritage.

Focused on raw, unsanforized selvedge denim (i.e., shrink-to-fit), typically woven on vintage shuttle looms.

Almost entirely produced in Japan, including spinning, dyeing, weaving, and sewing.

And here are more notable details making the brand definitely unique:

Custom pocket flasher artwork featuring warriors or swords. Iron buttons, copper rivets, hidden arcs, and jacquard pocket bags with samurai motifs. Leather patches often depict warriors in battle or other feudal themes.

Prices range from ranges $280 to $400+, depending on the style and weight. Available via Samurai’s Japan store, Hinoya, Okayama Denim, Denimio, Standard & Strange, Corlection, Blue in Green (NYC), and Rivet & Hide (UK).

The post Samurai Jeans – Heavy-Weight Selvedge Denim first appeared on Denimology.

DENIM and PATCHES sourced this post originally published on this site

Indigo Invitational sponsors can opt for coverage here on Denimhunters. To learn more about our advertising opportunities, contact Thomas here.

Streamlined and Heritage-Focused, The Flat Head Is Back in a Big Way

Once one of the most revered names in Japanese denim, The Flat Head all but vanished from the scene after filing for bankruptcy in 2019. 

Known for their meticulous construction, sharp vertical fades, and unmistakable vintage styling, the brand had become a benchmark for raw denim obsessives around the world.

Now they’re back—streamlined, refocused, and still committed to the obsessive detail that earned them cult status.

I recently caught up with the new leadership in Japan to hear the story behind the relaunch. But first, let me tell you how I first encountered The Flat Head—on a rain-soaked honeymoon in Tokyo.

TL;DR – Quick Summary

• This is a behind-the-scenes look at The Flat Head’s quiet relaunch after years of near-silence.
• We spoke with the brand’s new leadership in Japan to understand what’s changed—and what hasn’t.
• The article explores how TFH has streamlined its operations and refocused on core strengths like denim, loopwheeled knits, and leather.

Honeymoon to Heartbreak

In 2018, I honeymooned in Japan. I was in the market for a new pair of selvedge, but my blushing bride didn’t want to spend too much of our honeymoon denim shopping.

We compromised by cramming all of it into one day, starting with Kapital in Ebisu and ending the day, drenched in rain, at the Flat Head boutique in Harajuku. 

The name was a familiar one to me. I knew that The Flat Head jeans were prized for their nearly unbeatable fades. I wasn’t deeply immersed in fade culture yet, but the faded examples I had seen online, with their trademark sharp contrasts and vertical texture, had captured my attention.

The Tokyo boutique was my first up-close-and-personal look at The Flat Head jeans, but, drenched to the bone, I was hardly in the mood to play the patient shopper. I left the shop with a gorgeous vest but no jeans (something I still regret).

A few days later, I visited the brand’s webshop. I couldn’t believe what I was seeing.

The boutique had featured only a few dozen items, but The Flat Head’s output could’ve filled a warehouse. The webshop sprawled across pages and pages of thumbnail-sized listings.

Not long after this, news started to break that The Flat Head had run into financial difficulties.

They had flown too high and too close to the sun, expanding their lines beyond their breaking point and pushing the business into unprofitable avenues, including, among other things, a restaurant.

The Flat Head filed for bankruptcy in August of 2019. During the bankruptcy process that followed, production slowed down to a crawl.

Flat Head pieces almost entirely disappeared from shelves, especially outside of Japan.

The brand never shut things down entirely, but, for those watching from outside of Japan, it looked as though the sun had set on a legendary Japanese brand. 

Dawn of The New Flat Head

With questions swirling about what had happened to The Flat Head and whether it had a future, Sirius Partners stepped in.

The Japanese private equity firm took over the apparel side of the business. Founder Masayoshi Kobayashi stepped aside, but the rest of the Flat Head team remained in place.

By keeping the original Flat Head team in their roles, the investors were making it clear that they recognized the importance, not just of the brand’s employees, but of Kobayashi-san’s vision—something shared by those who worked under him.  

There was no hard reset, no dramatic change in direction—just a streamlining and a renewed focus on the rugged wearables that made The Flat Head a household name in the selvedge scene.

With the financials sorted, the wheels of production started turning more quickly. Thanks to bottlenecks caused by the COVID-19 slowdown, it took a bit of time to get things back up to speed, but The Flat Head’s pairs are now, once again, stocked and re-stocked at the brand’s retailers. 

The brand’s legendary leather jackets, many of them still adhering to Kobayashi’s designs, also made a triumphant return to shelves—very good news for those who have been waiting for their chance to get into one of Japan’s best leather jackets. 

Stockburg, Flat Head’s in-house leather shop, which used to be responsible for the brand’s leather wallets and accessories, has now taken over production of Flat Head leather jackets. These used to be outsourced to partner factories, but they are now handled in-house. 

Representatives for the brand say that this allows The Flat Head to better express its creative vision, shortening the distance between inspiration and execution. It also gives them more control over delivery timelines.

The first jackets that rolled off the Stockburg line made a very strong impression. It was immediately clear that The Flat Head hadn’t lost a step. If anything, they’d improved. Orders from retailers poured in. 

Wait times for stockists are now in excess of a year, so, if you see a Flat Head jacket hanging in your local stockist, it might not be there for long. Strike while the iron is hot.  

A True-Blue Trail Blazer: Pioneer Denim

Back in 1996, when Flat Head was founded, Japan was in the midst of a selvedge explosion. Japanese consumers and brands were still largely focused on the past (particularly the 501), but innovators were beginning to experiment with heavier and more-textured denims.

Flat Head was on the vanguard of this movement. They used twentieth-century machinery to form a bridge into the twenty-first century, respecting denim’s heritage while nudging it in new directions.

Their Pioneer Denim, first introduced in 2001, came at the tail-end of a years-long iterative process. Kobayashi, inspired by a mid-century pair of jeans that had caught his eye when he was a vintage dealer, worked with a mill in Kojima to create a slubby denim with a pronounced vertical texture. 

Pioneer Denim was an instant classic—one of the denims that fuelled the explosive rise of the selvedge scene and fade culture in North America, Europe, and Southeast Asia. Now, more than two decades later, it has a long track record of impressive fades.

It’s easy to see why, for years, Pioneer Denim was heralded as the absolute best starting point for a serious fade project. It’s less easy to see why we don’t see more of it in the competitive fade circuit. 

The denim has not changed in more than two decades. It’s as good as it ever was, fading quickly and beautifully. For those looking for a competition pair, you can’t do much better than this.   

We’ve hand-picked all products. When you buy something, we may earn a commission.

Other Denims to Consider

Since The Flat Head’s reemergence, they’ve slowly introduced other denims into the mix.

Their left-hand twill (a version of the Zimbabwe-cotton selvedge formerly used for their now-shelved sub-label Real Japan Blues) has been a welcome addition to the line-up, particularly for those looking for a soft and easy-going selvedge that still fades beautifully.

They’ve also introduced a new 18 oz. selvedge that may, in time, challenge Pioneer Denim for the flagship position.

Without losing an ounce of Flat Head’s trademark vertical texture, this crisp and beefy heavyweight selvedge is primed for serious high-contrast fades.

If you prefer lightweight denims, they’ve got that covered as well with a 12 oz. selvedge that’s designed to mimic WWII-era selvedge.

With its donut top button, u-shaped back pockets, and plaid pocket bags, it’s a pair that stands out from the rest of the line-up. 

The Flat Head is sold at Redcast Heritage (ES) and Franklin & Poe (US)

The Fits: Something Old or Something New

Flat Head may be dramatically more streamlined than they were in 2018, but they haven’t thrown the baby out with the bathwater.

Well-worn and much-loved icons like the slim-tapered 3002, the regular-straight 3005, and the regular-tapered 3009 (all made from Pioneer Denim) are back and as good as ever. 

Given my choice of pairs to review for this article, I went with one of their newer cuts, the 3004. They introduced the cut in 2021, but it references other popular high-rise tapered fits that had rolled through The Flat Head lines for decades. 

All three fits are available at Franklin & Poe.

A generously cut high-rise straight-tapered fit, it will leave guys with slim legs (myself included) plenty of room. For those with larger or more muscular thighs, it should fit more like a slim straight.  

Thanks to its high rise (something I’ve learned to appreciate more as I’ve grown older), the fit is highly adaptable. If you like to alternate between tucked-in and untucked looks, the 3004 or the 18 oz. 8004 should definitely be on your radar.

If you’ve struggled at all with the short bodies on most Japanese tees (like the Warehouse one pictured below), the higher rise will be a game changer. It works with even my shortest tees, allowing me to pull those underused basics out of the bottom of the drawer and into heavy rotation.

The taper isn’t dramatic, but, especially for gents with larger feet, it won’t work particularly well with slip-on boots. Of all the footwear in my collection, I found the fit worked well with all my lace-up boots and, best of all, my penny loafers.

The denim is extremely hairy (something I always appreciate), and it is slightly rough to the touch. The roughness and crispness of the denim disappear quickly, though, and the trademark rainfall pattern (there if you look for it when the denim is new) begins to rise to the surface.

The details you look for in a great pair are all there. There’s peekaboo selvedge at the fifth pocket, chain-stitching at the hems and on the yoke, a goat leather patch, cotton threads, substantially raised loops, branded iron buttons that will rust as the pair ages, and concealed rivets on the back pockets. 

The arcuates are bold, especially when executed with contrasting lemon-coloured thread.

I asked them about the arcs, and they told me that they are meant to look like ribbons. Each pair is intended as a gift from the brand to its customers, and, for as long as it lasts, the ribbons tie the two of them together.

Overall, I’m deeply impressed with the pair and the brand that produced it.

Under Kobayashi’s leadership, The Flat Head built themselves a stellar reputation among selvedge and leather enthusiasts. Now, under new management, they’ve taken flight once again. 

Back to Basics

What seems most promising about The Flat Head’s return is that they’re not trying to whizz-bang it. They’ve simplified things, distilling the brand down to its essence.

They’re adding new pieces to the line-up very slowly, and popular sub-labels like Real Japan Blues have been shelved for the time being while they focus on strengthening the brand’s core.

The streamlined line-up is better aligned with the values they espouse. They say that their products are not meant to be collected or stacked up on groaning shelves. They’re meant to be worn hundreds or even thousands of times. 

This buy-less, wear-more philosophy only makes sense if the brand is making each piece slowly and passionately, and if they’re not flooding the zone with mountains of product. They seem to have rediscovered this and brought it back to the core of what they’re doing. 

Flat Head is back to doing the kinds of things that made them a household name in the selvedge scene. They’re living their values, which means they’re at their best—and this brand at its best is a force to be reckoned with. 

The post A Comeback Story: The New Flat Head Takes Flight appeared first on Denimhunters.

DENIM and PATCHES sourced this post originally published on this site

After 365 Days of Fading, the Cream has Risen to the Top! Here Are Your Winners!

The Redline Rally is the most gruelling fade competition on the planet. It’s a relatively easy thing to put on a pair of jeans and wear them daily for a year. To do the same thing with a shirt or a jacket, though—that’s a different matter entirely. 

The results are always impressive, but this year, our competitors outdid themselves. The pieces in our Top 20 have all gone further and faster than ever before, and we want to commend all of the competitors who made it this far.

All of you deserve special recognition for what you managed to do to your pieces this year, and we’re going to try to spread the prizes out so we can recognize some of the deserving pieces that didn’t make it into the winner’s circle. 

Thanking Our Sponsors and Our Judges

Before we get to the results, we have two very special thank yous. First, we want to thank Iron Heart, our sole competition partner for the Redline Rally. It’s thanks to Iron Heart that we’re able to keep the competition free for all competitors.

If you’re considering a piece for Y4 of the Rally (starting in January 2026), Iron Heart shirts and jackets remain our top recommendation—you’ll see why below. 

We also want to extend a big thank you to the fade experts at Heddels, who took this task incredibly seriously. They’ve been on the vanguard of the selvedge scene and fade culture for the better part of two decades, and we’re proud to have them with us as judging partners. 

I asked them what they think constitutes a beautiful fade. This is what they said: 

“At Heddels, we don’t believe that there is a singular ideal that all raw denim wearers should strive to achieve.

The fades we treasure most are those that show the person that lived in it, the choices they made in it, and who they are: if they like to hike, ride their motorcycle, bounce their child on their knees, or kick back in an air-conditioned office.

All are valid approaches and we look for the most authentic expressions of the people who wore them.” 

I couldn’t have said it any better. Now, without further ado, our results, starting with tenth place.

Redline Rally
Y3 Top 10

10th Place

Kang Jantrasri

Benzak Type II – 15 oz.

Our defending Redline Rally champion earned his way back into the winner’s circle with beautiful work on his Benzak Type II. I can’t take my eyes off the curving line that crosses the middle of the jacket at the second button. More great work from a dependably excellent fader.

“Nice all-over fade, this one looks soft!”

Heddels

Buy a Benzak jack here.

9th Place

Brent Baker

The Flat Head Type II – 14.5 oz. 

Flat Head’s Pioneer Denim was, for a time, the selvedge of choice for fade fanatics. Brent is showing us why. He’s set incredibly deep combs in at the elbows, and he’s given us a great look at that trademark vertical texture. A jacket many of us would kill to have hanging on a hook by the door. 

“Pretty great on a Type II!”

Heddels

The Flat Head is available at: Redcast Heritage (ES) and Franklin & Poe (US)

8th Place

Thaweesak Sriwisart

Pinion Type III – 25 oz.

As our panel noted, this purple denim is an incredibly bold choice–especially when its been overlaid with these intense high-contrast fades. Thaweesak is an artist of fades, and we’re very glad to see him and this incredible Pinion piece inside the winner’s circle. 

“The high contrast purple weft lends this an acid wash look. Not for everyone, but I find it compelling.”

Heddels

See more Pinion jackets here.

7th Place

Sorawit Sangsanan

Gupe Type II – 25 oz. 

Some of the most honest and hard-wearing fades in the competition. Everything about this jacket screams “WORK” at the top of its lungs. Not the most extreme fade to come out of the Southeast Asian scene this year, but that’s what our panel really loved about it.

“Nice unwashed fades with the dirt caste of heavy wear, still worn after taking a beating and no repairs.”

Heddels

Check out Gupe here.

6th Place

Scott Stasiuk

Tanuki Kusaki Type II – 19.5 oz. 

Our Defending Indigo Invitational champion finds himself inside the winner’s circle once again. From top to bottom, this jacket reads like a book, beginning in the dark and moving (quite suddenly) towards the light. A brilliant bit of work from a guy who clearly has this down to a science. 

“Beautiful contrast on a highly textured fabric. It’s also nice to see the entire gradient of the indigo from top to bottom.”

Heddels

You can get this Tanuki jacket at Blue Beach Denim.

5th place

Will Clark

UES Tricotine – 15.5 oz. 

With two of these shirts in the winner’s circle, it’s likely we’ll see a lot more of these in the coming years (provided that UES keeps on bringing them back). The fade potential in this beefy fabric is off the charts, and what Will has done to it takes our breath away. 

“Love the naturalistic look and color gradient in this piece. You can see the life lived in every bit of grime and know the texture just by eyeing it.”

Heddels

UES is available at Redcast Heritage (ES) and Iron Shop Provisions (US)

4th Place

Alex Chong

Studio D’Artisan D5571 – 14 oz. 

This Studio D’Artisan Western has been attempted more than once in past Rallies. It’s always performed quite well, but never quite as good as this. Alex has put the long miles in on this heavy western, and he’s got one of the best-looking shirts we’ve ever seen to show for it. 

“This is the aspiration I have for all my denim westerns. If Alex has a partner, they either love him very much or left him months ago. So much dedication to achieve this look on a shirt. Bravo!”

Heddels

You can buy Studio D’Artisan from these retailers: Redcast Heritage (ES), Division Road (US), Brooklyn Clothing (CA), Hinoya (JP)

3rd Place

Jørn-Bjørn Fuller-Gee

Iron Heart Pale Rider

The man that needs no introduction, Jørn-Bjørn has stormed into this scene and become our unofficial mascot. His energy and passion for the clothes and the lifestyle around them are infectious. He’s inspiring people to do more in their clothes—to live wildly, out there over the edge. 

What he’s done to this Pale Rider is beyond words. This combination of crocking and patina is almost impossible to replicate. Like our man JB, this one’s amazing both inside and out. 

“The inner roughout fades on these are as much a sight as the exterior. You can really how much indigo was worn both inside and out of this piece. I don’t think I’ve ever seen such an intense “second-hand” fade before.”

Heddels

Get a Pale Rider here.

2nd Place

Hiroki Tanaka

Momotaro 05-159 – 12 oz. 

Our man in Japan has been making a strong case for himself for the last few years as one of the year’s best faders. We’re not sure what he does for work or in his spare time, but, whatever it is, he’s absolutely shredding stubborn pieces. A truly exceptional result for this hard-to-fade piece.

“Very impressive and naturalistic fades on a notoriously-slow fading piece, and in herringbone, no less! The contrast and the creases on the arms would make any pair of jeans blush, and the pen and lighter (?) fades show a dedication rarely seen on raw tops.”

Heddels

Momotaro is stocked at: Division Road (US), Hinoya (JP), Cultizm (DE), Brooklyn Clothing (CA)

REDLINE RALLY 1st Place

Tobias Hinchliffe

Iron Heart IHJ-120 – 12 oz.

Faded into the ground by an English brick layer, this wabash work jacket shows what happens when an unstoppable force meets an unmovable object. If this jacket could talk, it wouldn’t be able to–it’s flat on its back and catching its breath.

We’ve been quietly cheering for this one all year. Tobias is an intensely deserving champion, and we’re proud to crown him the king of the Redliners! 

“What’s lost in contrast is made up for in sheer dedication. This looks like a garment pulled from a mine or a rusted steam locomotive. The ghosts of fades lingering in the remaining indigo. What a feat! I’ve never seen anything like it—at least not in this century.”

Heddels

Get your Iron Heart wabash here.

Re(PAIR)
Top 5

5th Place

Bardya Firoozyan

UES Tricotine – 15.5 oz. 

We’ve been drooling over this UES Tricotine for two full years now. Every update has been a delight to open, and we’ve placed it in more spotlights than we can count. It’s found its way into the winner’s circle, where it’s always belonged. Brilliant work, brother. 

“Even all-over fades that can only come from lots of loving wear.”

Heddels

Get one at Redcast Heritage.

4th Place

Mohd Tarmizi Mohamad

Wingman Sashiko – 12.5 oz.

We love sashiko fades, and boy has Mohd given us one for the ages here. While some of the pieces in the finals look like they’re holding on by a thread, this one has lots more to give. Who wouldn’t kill for a jacket like this? Truly awesome work.

“I’ve never seen such well-defined fades on such a thick sashiko before, well done with the pocket fade.”

Heddels

Buy one of these at Cultizm.

3rd Place

Jon Breitenbucher

Iron Heart IHSH-62-IND – 12 oz. 

Iron Heart’s Wabash won’t give up the indigo easily. It takes a lot of abuse and a lot of coaxing to get the dye moving. Jon waited and waited, and he was rewarded for his patience. Looks like a piece out of workwear history here. Definitely deserving of a spot on the podium. 

“Nice work on the wabash, feels very natural and age appropriate while keeping all the texture and detail we appreciate.”

Heddels

Pick up a wabash shirt like this from Iron Heart’s webshop.

2nd Place

Long Chan

Iron Heart IHSH-295BB – 14 oz. 

For anybody who has ever tried to fade black denim (particularly this stubborn double black selvedge from Iron Heart), this shirt is bound to impress. It’s got two-year-piece written all over it, and we’re so glad that Long (with his beautiful little girl along for the ride) went the distance in it.

“Black denim fades don’t get enough love, but maybe they would if they looked like this.”

Heddels

Iron Heart stock this shirt here.

Re(PAIR) 1st Place

Sven Bauer

Tellason Coverall – 16.5 oz.

We’ve been saying it for years. Tellason’s Coverall, particularly in this weight, is nearly unmatched in terms of bang for its buck. Its fade potential is off the charts, and Sven’s two-year approach to this jacket (full of long walks with the dogs and god knows what else) has fully realized this potential.

“Beautiful contrast including all over fade and the repair work on the hems is skilled and elegant.”

Heddels

Read more about Tellason’s Coverall in our in-depth review of it … or just get one here.

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Looking Ahead to Y4 and Y5

We honestly can’t remember the last time that we’ve had a few months without competitions running. We’ll use this time to reach out to new sponsors and to recommend great pieces for the next competitions. 

The next Indigo Invitational (jeans) will start on September 1st. Registration is open now, and you can register here. The next Redline Rally will start on January 1st of 2026. Registration will open very soon. 

If you’re looking for the perfect pair for the next Invitational, start with our Selvedge Master List.  If it’s a Rally piece you’re after, start with our guides to made-to-fade jackets and made-to-fade shirts. See you on the starting line!

The post Cream of the Crop: Redline Rally Y3 Winners appeared first on Denimhunters.

DENIM and PATCHES sourced this post originally published on this site

VIETHONG textiles is one of the most important denim mills in Vietnam and has been operating for over 20 years. They are one of the most regular participants in our D&J show in Vietnam and will be joining the 7th edition of D&J-Denimsandjeans Vietnam B2B event in HO Ch Minh City. We speak to the Marketing Head Mr Romeo Ordas to understand more about the company and its vision in a Q&A below :

VIET Hong Textile is one of the biggest fully integrated denim fabric mill in Vietnam. Please shed a light on your journey?

Viet Hong Textile originated from the mother company Viet Huong Group, which started by producing instant noodles and food flavoring years after they built 2 Industrial Park in Binh Duong Province. In 2005, Viet Hong Textile was established to cater to the growing demand for Denim fabric locally and internationally. From a mere production capacity of 300K meters a month, Viet Hong Textile is producing 1M to 1.2M meters and planning to increase capacity to 1.5M to 1.8M meters a month in 2026 by investing in new weaving machinery and dyeing machines. Viet Hong is also not new in the international market, continuously reaching out to other customers and penetrating new markets such as Europe, Russia, and Canada.

 Why do you believe in Vietnam and why do you think it has a great future especially denim?

I believe that Vietnam is in a perfect position in terms of apparel and textile manufacturing, as we have established ourselves as the denim manufacturing hub in ASIA. We have young, trainable, and skilled workers, not to mention our competitive pricing and high productivity.

 Vietnam will have a great future, anticipating 10 more years in the apparel business.  Vietnam companies are always ready to invest and improve our textile and apparel ecosystem. We have diverse raw material sources to satisfy ever-changing buyers’ requirements.

 In addition, we have eight existing FTAs with different nations, including CPTPP (Comprehensive and Progressive Agreement for Trans-Pacific Partnership) and EVFTA (EU-Vietnam Free Trade Agreement). We support our environment towards sustainability and innovations by adopting more sustainable dyeing/washing processes, which include waterless and non-harmful chemicals that protect our workers and the environment.

 Lastly, the good support from our government is also a plus factor.

What are the latest innovative products from your stable which you feel proud about?

 We have several sustainable and functional fabrics that are part of our best-selling items. Our S-Café, made from coffee granules, is a big hit with our local brands, and our functional Cool Max all seasons are also making waves locally and internationally.

European governments are steadily coming out with regulations relating to sustainability. How do these regulations affect you – are you changing your technologies to be ready for the same ?

Our market share in Europe is still minimal, and since the EU is an important market, some practices and procedures are already in place in our production cycle. Our technology and process upgrades, like investing in water-saving dyeing machines, are coming, and the ERP system will be implemented soon. Our product line also consists of organic cotton, recyclable yarns, and biodegradable materials. We have global certifications such as the Higg Index, GRS/RCS, and OEKO-TEX. We are traveling to Europe in September to learn more about the EU market and its comprehensive requirements.

What do you think will be the effect on Tariffs by USA in the denim industry specially from Vietnam’s perspective?

Tariffs will strongly impact the denim industry in Vietnam, especially since we do not have an FTA agreement with the USA. However, Vietnam is not the focus of the US government due to our strong relationship with them. Besides, we are the preferred alternative to China by most US buyers.

 With Vietnam’sstrong manufacturing ecosystem, shifting global sourcing trends, and focus on sustainability, we are in a better position.

 What are the main products that you shall be showcasing in the Denims and jeans Vietnam show in June 2025?

This year, we are focusing on showing our denim collection made from our sustainable and functional fabrics such as S-Café, Tencel, Recycle Yarns, Coolmax, Thermolite, and denim made from US Cotton, rigid, blended, and with Lycra or Spandex.

Romeo M. Ordas – Seasoned executive with multinational experience in textile and apparel sales, merchandising, product, and business development.
With over 35 years of experience in the garment industry, he is well-connected with various garment and textile manufacturers, owners, and buyers. Well-traveled to the USA, Europe, Canada, South Korea, Japan, Hong Kong, and other Asian countries.
He is a tailor from the Philippines and a textile engineer with previous work experience for companies such as Mode International, Mitsubishi Corporation, Li & Fung Export Ltd. (Saipan), PROTRADE Garment, and currently the Business Development Director at Viet Hong Textile. 

Contact details – romy.ordas@viethongtextile.com

Mobile # +84 773 261 944

The post A Talk With Romeo Ordas From VIETHONG appeared first on Denimandjeans | Global Trends, News and Reports | Worldwide.

DENIM and PATCHES sourced this post originally published on this site

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Who Makes the Best Chambray Shirt? After Years of Hunting, We’ve Compiled This List

It’s hard to think of a more natural workwear pairing than denim and chambray. The two fabrics have been boon companions for centuries, and, particularly when the temperatures climb and there’s work to be done or fun to be had, the reasons for this become obvious.

The affinity between the two fabrics runs so deep that indigo-dyed chambrays are often referred to as denim (a mistake). Yes, chambray and denim are both woven using indigo-dyed warp yarns and undyed weft yarns, but the yarns are combined in very different ways.

Over the years, both Thomas and I have added a few chambray shirts to our collections, but there are chambray shirts and then there are chambray shirts.

The heritage brands listed below treat the chambray shirt as a love letter to the past, and the time has finally come for me to bring one of them home. 

“I’ve been preparing for this moment for a while, so here’s my short list of what I believe to be the best indigo chambray work shirts on the market.”

Bryan

If you’re also on the hunt for that perfect indigo chambray, you’ll likely find it on this list. Happy hunting!

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Iron Heart Chambray Work Shirt

Always running in the leading pack, Iron Heart’s full-throated take on the workwear classic is, as is typical for the brand, heavier by far than nearly every other shirt on this list. Again, true to Iron Heart form, the shirt fades beautifully if worn regularly in the sun.

A dependable member of the Iron Heart line-up, the chambray is re-stocked regularly. If your size isn’t currently available, sign up to have them email you when the shirt is hot off the presses.

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Tellason Clampdown Chambray

Telllason’s Clampdown shirt—one of the brand’s most long-lasting and popular shirts—is always a savvy choice. Unfussy and practical as the day is long, the Clampdown can go toe-to-toe with any of the other shirts on this list. 

The chambray, milled in Japan and cut and sewn in San Francisco, will fade to a brilliant dusty blue. Like the other chambrays on this list, you should wash this one regularly to bring out its best.

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Ginew Mohican Crew Shirt

Tipping the scales at a beefy 10 oz., Ginew’s chambray is heavy enough to wear as an overshirt. If the traditional two-pocket design found on many of the shirts on this list doesn’t exactly do it for you, this simpler, single-pocket design might blow that steam whistle for you. 

Tall gents, take notice! If Japanese sizing puts a ton of great heritage pieces out of reach for you, this American-made shirt might be the one you’ve been looking for. Longer in the body and sleeves than any of the other shirts on this list.

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Buzz Rickson’s Chambray Work Shirt

The last time I made a short list like this, I was looking for an N-1 deck jacket. The time before that, I was looking for a peacoat. Both times, I ended up going with Buzz Rickson’s, and, if we’re placing bets, their chambray is the odds on favourite to be the one that I pick.  

A meticulous reproduction of the shirts worn by US Navy and Army servicemen during WWII, featuring blue metal buttons, this chambray is tough enough to storm the beaches and stylish enough for an evening of shore leave. 

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Rite Stuff Heracles

Rite Stuff founder Bryan Shettig can say without blushing that he knows more about early 20th century work shirts than just about anybody on the planet. His meticulous reproductions of classic shirts from the ‘20s and ‘30s are as close as you can come to the real thing without paying steep collectors’ prices.

Rite Stuff’s popular indigo chambrays disappear from shelves very quickly, but they’re worth waiting for. If your size isn’t available, ask your retailer to notify you when they restock.

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Real McCoy’s 8HU Chambray Serviceman 

Whenever I’m looking for the best of something, no matter what the category, Real McCoy’s always makes the short list. Their chambray shirt is no exception. The double-layered heart-side pocket (designed to help keep workers’ cigarettes dry) is a brilliant detail.

The design looks backwards, but its construction looks forward. It’ll fade beautifully over time. When you’ve aged and sun-baked this shirt to perfection, you’ll be glad you dug deep for it.

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Big John Selvedge Chambray

In my books, Big John can do no wrong. They’ve got a long and rich history that stretches back to 1940, when they started producing Japanese workwear. For nearly a century now, they’ve never placed a foot (or a stitch) in the wrong place.

Woven, cut, and sewn in Japan, the Big John Selvedge Chambray features triple-stitched major seams with miles of chain-stitch run-off, and it’s all finished off with shell buttons. A great alternative to some of the more expensive chambrays on this list.

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Bryceland’s Teardrop Chambray

For our money, this shirt, modelled on a 1950s Lee shirt, is the most stylish chambray on this list. The proportions and the gracefully curved pocket flaps place this shirt in a category of its own. Finished off with mother-of-pearl buttons, this is where luxury and workwear collide head-on.

This level of tailoring and design don’t come cheap, but, for the exacting heritage enthusiast, this is the pinnacle of the category. If you’re hard to fit, this one is also available as a made-to-measure garment (for an added fee, of course). 

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Anatomica Big Yank 1942 Chambray

Based on a popular wartime working man’s shirt produced in Chicago by workwear legends Reliance Manufacturing, the Big Yank positively drips heritage bona fides. It may be produced in Japan, but it’s as American as apple pie, 

Miles of fabric below the bottom button make this an ideal shirt for those planning to wear their chambray tucked in. The apron is so long that it looks a little strange when worn untucked, so tuck it into a nice high-rise pair of jeans or wool trousers for a truly classic American workwear look. 

Sold out at Clutch Café? One of our all-time favourite retailers, Burg & Schild, also sells the Big Yank.

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Dehen Drover Chambray

Dehen have been producing world-class knitwear in the Northwestern United States for nearly a century, so they’ve earned the right to riff on the standards in their own signature style. Their take on the classic American work shirt features snaps instead of buttons and a concealed pen pocket.

Best of all is the charm-oozing, sky-blue 7.25 oz. chambray fabric they’ve used. Miles away from ordinary, this fabric draws the eye and hand like nothing else. A shirt that practically demands to be worn until almost no trace of the blue remains.

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Perfect Pairings

The lightweight chambrays on this list will look great when tucked into higher-rise and generously cut selvedge jeans. Here’s a list of our favourite high-rise pairs.

To get the latest news on what we’re wearing and watching, sign up for our newsletter here.

The post Chambray Short List: 10 Shirts That Make the Cut appeared first on Denimhunters.

DENIM and PATCHES sourced this post originally published on this site

Denim Exhibition concluded successfully at The Lalit Ashok, Bengaluru on May 14–15, 2025. As one of the key global denim industry gatherings, the event brought together stakeholders across the denim value chain for two days of exhibition, knowledge sharing, and sourcing opportunities.

This edition was officially inaugurated with an opening Ceremony that underscored the significance of the denim sector in India’s textile and apparel landscape. The keynote address was delivered by Shri Kartikay Dhanda, Secretary of the Textiles Committee, Government of India. His remarks highlighted the government’s focus on sustainability, innovation, and export growth within the denim ecosystem.

With this meaningful opening, the stage was set for a two-day event marked by knowledge exchange, innovation showcases, and cross-industry collaboration.

A Theme Rooted in Fabric and Culture: “50 Shades of Denim”

This year’s edition was based on the theme “50 Shades of Denim , because one shade is never enough.” This theme is more than just about denim’s different materials. It also shows the diverse culture of India, where traditions, regions, and people come together in a colorful mix. Just like denim has many shades, textures, and finishes, India’s culture is full of variety too.

A Hub for Denim Innovation and Sustainable Solutions

The exhibition featured over 35 companies from India, Turkey, Italy, and more, showcasing a wide spectrum of products and processes from traditional craftsmanship to innovations in denim, including sustainable denim trends, laser finishing, low-impact dyeing, and circular materials.

The buyer turnout was a key highlight of the show, with over 1,150 visitors attending the event. The audience included sourcing and design teams from some of the most recognized global and Indian fashion and retail brands. Representatives from Shragatex, Quince, Gap, Levi’s, H&M, Pepe Jeans, Calvin Klein, Marks & Spencer, Ralph Lauren, Wrangler, Flying Machine, Spykar, ONLY, Mufti, and Myntra and attended the show, meeting with suppliers, exploring trends, and building future collaborations.

Their active engagement reaffirmed the event’s place among major global denim industry gatherings and its growing influence within the Asia-Pacific sourcing calendar.

At the exhibition, Denimsandjeans partnered with the Indenium School of Responsible Design to conduct a live workshop. This session provided attendees with practical insights into sustainable denim practices, bridging academic knowledge and industry applications.

Seminar & Panel Highlights

Key seminars and panels on sustainable denim, market trends, tech, and consumer insights were a major highlight. Check out the panel discussions below:

Circular Denim & Post-Consumer Waste Integration

The Evolution of Denim Culture – Identity, Expression, and Social Change

Tariffs and Their Impact on the Indian Textile and Apparel Industry

Navigating Innovation Through Changing Denim Trends

Indiwool: A Product of IIT’s Startup Ecosystem

The Trend Area – A Glimpse Into A/W 26/27 Denim Futures

One of the most engaging elements of the show was the Trend Area, curated and conceptualized internally by the Denimsandjeans team in collaboration with a global trend partner – WGSN. It spotlighted forecasted trends for A/W 26/27 denim fabric, wash, and finish directions, segmented into three key themes:

• Kintentional: Focused on restorative softness, abstract quilting, and meaningful slogans
• Geo-Logic: Showcasing cracked earth textures, geological dye effects, and frozen finishes
• Empowered Play: Highlighting expressive denim with playful graphics, metallics, and tailored touches

The space offered a hands-on experience for visitors to explore future market directions, sustainability-led innovations, and creative construction techniques in denim.

Stay Tuned: Denimsandjeans Vietnam – 25–26 June 2025

As we wrap up Denimsandjeans India 2025, we thank all participants and partners who made this edition a true success story in sustainable sourcing.

Join us at Denimsandjeans Vietnam, 25–26 June 2025 in Ho Chi Minh City. Click here to register for Vietnam Denim Show.

Stay tuned for updates on exhibitors, themes, and seminar schedules.

The post Denimsandjeans India 2025 – Denim Exhibition Report appeared first on Denimandjeans | Global Trends, News and Reports | Worldwide.

DENIM and PATCHES sourced this post originally published on this site

For over 70 years, Ramsons (India) has been a Pioneer in the Design & Manufacture of “Apparel Production” Equipment, Laundry Equipment (Wet & Dry Process Equipment) Storage Equipment, Leather Manufacturing Equipment, Sterilization & Medical Equipments and so on. As they join our D&J India show, we tried to understand from the CEO Mr Sunder Belani about their latest initiatives and specially those on sustainability . Here is an excerpt from the interview

Ramsons is a very old company Can you share with us the history and the major
milestones achieved in the company
Ramsons started its operations in 1950 and we have been one of the forerunners in Asia for
Sustainable Technology connected to Apparel and Textile Processing and Finishing.
In the 50s we started with an engineering workshop and started making Vacuum Ironing
Boards and Steam Pressing Equipment and Steam Generators in the 70s.
The Apparel Manufacturers then asked us to produce Laundry Equipment which we started
Manufacturing in the 80s which then started moving to Hotels and Hospitals too.
We then came into lot of International Joint Ventures in the 90s and have been
manufacturing proudly in India from over 50 years and exporting to over 40 countries since
our product range consists of over 100 sustainable products like Zero Emission Electrical
Steam Generators, (IBR / TUV approved ) Vacuum Ironing Boards With Low Power,
Automatic Form Finishers to reduce labour and carbon footprint.
We also produce low liquor ratio washing equipment, Washer Extractor with Recyclable
water tanks. We produce Ozone equipment to prevent anti back staining, bleach, reduction
of water, chemical and effluent.
In the Washer extractor, the Washex technology we have nebulizing which reduces effluent
by over 90% and reduces water, chemical and reduction of labour in the washer extractor
system.
We also have now developed acid wash using no chemicals and no water in the process
and we are now producing Low Liquor ratio garment dyeing machines using sprays.

What major product categories do you have as a machinery manufacturer
We manufacture equipment in the apparel chain and textile chain. Fabric is inspected using
Ramsons zero tension fabric inspection equipment with calibrated meters and relaxing
equipment for fabric.
Warehousing systems using RFIDS so that traceability which is the norm of the day is taken
care of.
We have finishing equipment which consists of Electrical, Diesel and Gas Fired Steam
Generators, Vacuum Boards and Bucks of all shapes and sizes.
Material Handling Systems, Automatic Finishing Systems, Fusing Equipment With Less
Power And Less Energy Requirement.
We also have automatic shirt folding equipment. We have needle detecting equipment. We
also manufacture turnkey laundry systems where we design, we install and we demonstrate
modern day sustainable laundry equipment that includes washers, hydro extractors. We
have automatic hydro extraction systems called the Presomatic. We have bag lifting hydro
extractors to reduce labour. Our Vertostar Equipment of washing equipment has jet spray
technology which reduces the liquor ratio to less than 1 : 3 . Our ozone machines ensure anti

back staining and bleaching using negligible or no chemicals and water, acid wash is also
now achievable through ozone technology. We have nebulizers with reduction of over 90%
in a new Washex technology. We have software that measures traceability in the entire
laundry chain. It’s called the ECOSOFT.

Sustainability is the major keyword today. How have you evolved your machines so
that the garment factories can  achieve the sustainable goals set by their buyers. 
The biggest consumer of energy in a laundry is the drying systems. We have developed auto
drying systems using conveyors both overhead and within closed chambers called the
Dryomatic.
The overhead is the conveyor drive, variable frequency drive. We use natural air, so 90% of
the drying is done through natural air and just for hand feel, is pushed into a tumble dryer.
The tumble dryer, now newly designed we have now a recyclable system to reuse the hot air
emanating for the tumble dryer, thereby reducing the energy by a further 30% in the tumble
dryer system.
In the dry process we have spraying systems with negligible use of PP and auto filling
systems which control the air pressures, we have a dual spray system which reduces the
effluent in a spraying machine, we also have robotic arms for abrasion on denim or any other
garment. These are controlled by PLCs, thereby ensuring accuracy in production and
reduction of skilled labour.

What are your key markets 

1. South East Asian Countries
2. African Continent
3. GCC Countries

What are your growth strategies for near future and how do are preparing for the
outcomes of the Tariff war going on

Our entire logo is now changed to Sustainable Thinking. The way thinking forward of our
think of our company and our product portfolio is going to be based on Sustainability
We have always wanted to give back to Mother Earth what we take from her, so we have
like in terms of water, we take clear water, clean water we want to give that back using
technologies which are not harmful at all to our planet.
Our Nebulizers, Low Liquor Ratio Machines (Go Green). Our Ozone equipment which
avoids chemicals and water for bleaches, Anti Back staining, acid washes and so on, our
reduction of energy in our drying systems of fabric and apparel.
Our finishing equipment like Steam Generators we have gone into production of electrical
steam generators. We are incidentally one of the Biggest Manufacturers of Apparel
Equipment (Not Traders) and in our meeting with Mr. Giriraj Singh, Ministry of Textiles he
was enamoured by the progress an Indian make in India manufacturing company has made
internationally in terms of technologies.

Our strategy is also to get into a tie up with Modern Day ZLD water treatment systems
because that’s the end line of our range and we want to cover the whole range of
sustainability.
We want to concentrate on recyclable energies, energy efficient drives and motors. We will
be concentrating on using inert gases into a paddle and fabric dyeing. Using more of ozone
and hydrogen processes to create effects so as to avoid the usage of Water, Chemicals,
Solvents and so on. This is a path we intend taking.

The post A Talk with Sunder Belani , MD, Ramsons | D&J India appeared first on Denimandjeans | Global Trends, News and Reports | Worldwide.

DENIM and PATCHES sourced this post originally published on this site

Fit Guide: The Weirloom WL-001 vs. Iron Heart 634, Tellason Sheffield, Samurai 510, and a Dozen More

When I decided to make my own jeans and launch Weirloom, I knew one of the first questions people would ask was: how does the fit compare to other jeans?

The Weirloom WL-001 is my idea of a true straight-leg fit: a natural rise, a leg that doesn’t taper too much, and just the right amount of room in the top block.

But instead of just telling you how it fits, I’ve done what I’ve always done in retail: compare the jeans to something you already know.

Maybe you love the Iron Heart 634 (like me), or you’re a fan of Tellason’s Sheffield, Samurai’s 510, Nudie’s Steady Eddie, Edwin’s Nashville, or any of the other jeans on the list below—which, by the way, are some of the jeans the first Weirloom customers have told me they wear and like.

This fit guide compares the measurements of the WL-001 to the following jeans: Iron Heart 634, Full Count 1108, Samurai 510, Japan Blue J401, Tellason Sheffield, Brave Star True Straight, Gustin Straight, Edwin Nashville, Nudie Steady Eddie, and not least Benzak’s B-02.

How I Measured the Jeans

Every pair in this guide—including my own—was measured flat using (more or less) consistent methods. For the comparisons, I’ve used size charts directly from the brand or a trusted retailer.

Here’s how I measure:

• Waist: Aligned the front and back of the waistband, then pulled taut and measured straight across, and doubled the measurement
• Front rise: From the crotch seam straight up to the top of the front waistband
• Back rise: From the crotch seam up to the centre back of the waistband
• Thigh: Straight across from the crotch seam (perpendicular to outseam)
• Knee: Measured 35 cm down from crotch seam, then straight across
• Hem: Straight across leg opening
• Inseam: From crotch seam to leg opening, following the contour of the leg

Most brands and retailers measure this way too—although some measure the waist a little differently. Some, like Nudie and Gustin, use different fixed points for thigh or knee.

What about sizing and grading?

To compare apples to apples, I selected the size in each brand that most closely matches the waist measurement of the Weirloom WL-001 in size 31. That’s the fairest way to compare fit, I think.

And regarding grading, it’s important to remember that not all brands grade sizes the same. Some adjust rise, thigh, and hem more or less aggressively than others as you go up or down in size. Please check the measurements twice when you compare to your size.

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Iron Heart 634

The 634 is Iron Heart’s flagship straight-leg fit—mid-to-high rise, a comfortable top block, and a clean leg from hip to hem. It’s one of the best-balanced fits in modern denim, and it’s no surprise it’s become a go-to for so many.

I’ve worn the 634 myself for years, in several different fabrics, and I’d probably call it my all-time favourite fit—well, apart from my Weirlooms

Iron Heart 634 vs. Weirloom WL-001

The differences between the 634 and the WL-001 are subtle but noticeable. The WL-001 has a lower front rise and a flatter yoke, which shapes the seat a bit differently—giving it a slightly more modern silhouette. The thigh and knee of the WL-001 are a touch slimmer, but not dramatically so.

	WL-001, size 31	IH-634, size 33	Difference
Waist	84.0 cm (33.1″)	83.8 cm (33.0″)	–0.2 cm (–0.1″)
Front Rise	26.4 cm (10.4″)	27.9 cm (11.0″)	+1.5 cm (+0.6″)
Back Rise	40.0 cm (15.7″)	39.4 cm (15.5″)	–0.6 cm (–0.2″)
Thigh	33.0 cm (13.0″)	34.3 cm (13.5″)	+1.3 cm (+0.5″)
Knee	23.5 cm (9.3″)	24.1 cm (9.5″)	+0.6 cm (+0.2″)
Hem	21.0 cm (8.3″)	21.3 cm (8.4″)	+0.3 cm (+0.1″)

If you’ve worn the 634, you’ll feel right at home in my Weirloom jeans.

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Tellason Sheffield

The Sheffield is Tellason’s core straight-leg jean—clean, durable, and proudly made in the USA. With a classic mid-rise, roomy thigh, and subtle taper, it’s long been a favourite among guys looking for a traditional fit that still works in a modern wardrobe.

Tellason Sheffield vs. Weirloom WL-001

Compared to the Weirloom WL-001, the Sheffield’s top block is a bit different, with a higher rise and slightly slimmer thigh. But the leg profile—especially from the knee down—is very similar.

	WL-001, size 31	Sheffield, size 32	Difference
Waist	84.0 cm (33.1″)	83.8 cm (33.0″)	–0.2 cm (–0.1″)
Front Rise	26.4 cm (10.4″)	28.6 cm (11.25″)	+2.2 cm (+0.85″)
Back Rise	40.0 cm (15.7″)	40.6 cm (16.0″)	+0.6 cm (+0.3″)
Thigh	33.0 cm (13.0″)	31.1 cm (12.25″)	–1.9 cm (–0.75″)
Hem	21.0 cm (8.3″)	20.3 cm (8.0″)	–0.7 cm (–0.3″)

If you’ve worn the Sheffield but wanted a little more room and a lower rise, you’ll like the WL-001.

In terms of sizing, the Sheffield runs about one size smaller than the WL-001, which means you need to size down 1 size from the Sheffield to the WL-001.

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Full Count 1108

The 1108 is one of Full Count’s best-known fits: a modern slim-straight jean with a slightly higher rise and a clean taper. It’s designed with balance in mind—offering a slim silhouette that still feels wearable and classic, especially when paired with the brand’s famously soft denim.

Full Count’s denim is famously soft and comfortable from the first wear, which makes the 1108 a real “daily driver” for many guys. Here, I’m comparing to the one-washed version of the 1108.

Full Count 1108 vs. Weirloom WL-001

The WL-001 has a roomier top block and a straighter leg overall. The rise on the 1108 is a little higher, and the taper below the knee is more noticeable.

On paper, the thigh appears significantly slimmer—but that’s partly because Full Count measures the thigh 40 cm down the leg (rather than straight from the crotch seam like I do for Weirloom). This measurement method leads to a smaller number, even if the actual feel isn’t quite as extreme.

	WL-001, size 31	FC 1108, size 33	Difference
Waist	84.0 cm (33.1″)	84.0 cm (33.1″)	±0.0 cm (±0.0″)
Front Rise	26.4 cm (10.4″)	28.5 cm (11.2″)	+2.1 cm (+0.8″)
Back Rise	40.0 cm (15.7″)	39.5 cm (15.6″)	–0.5 cm (–0.2″)
Thigh	33.0 cm (13.0″)	*30.5 cm (12.0″)	–2.5 cm (–1.0″)
Knee	23.5 cm (9.3″)	22.0 cm (8.7″)	–1.5 cm (–0.6″)
Hem	21.0 cm (8.3″)	20.0 cm (7.9″)	–1.0 cm (–0.4″)

*Thigh measured 40 cm down from crotch on Full Count.

If you’ve worn the 1108 and liked the fit, but wanted a slightly lower front rise and a straighter leg, the WL-001 might be exactly what you’re looking for.

Full Count size the Japanese way, where the waist measurement equals the tagged size (more or less). That means you need to size down two sizes from the 1108 to the WL-001.

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EDWIN NASHVILLE

The Nashville is Edwin’s classic straight fit—mid-rise, roomy without being baggy, and traditionally cut through the leg. It’s Edwin Europe’s last remaining fit from the original Japanese line.

I’ve worn the Nashville myself in the brand’s signature 14 oz. selvedge denim—those jeans are now retired as my painting pants. It’s a great, dependable fit with a bit of a rockabilly vibe, at least here in Scandinavia.

Edwin Nashville vs. Weirloom WL-001

The Nashville is sized right in-between the WL-001. The jeans I have are a size 30—but I could also fit a 31 for a more casual look, I guess.

In a size 30, the Nashville comes out a little slimmer than the size 31 WL-001. The thigh, knee, and back rise are all tighter than the WL-001, which makes the fit feel more … traditional. The WL-001 keeps a more modern seat and a balanced straight leg, while the Nashville leans vintage in its overall silhouette.

	WL-001, size 31	Nashville, size 30	Difference
Waist	84.0 cm (33.1″)	82.8 cm (32.6″)	–1.2 cm (–0.5″)
Front Rise	26.4 cm (10.4″)	26.0 cm (10.2″)	–0.4 cm (–0.2″)
Back Rise	40.0 cm (15.7″)	37.8 cm (14.9″)	–2.2 cm (–0.9″)
Thigh	33.0 cm (13.0″)	31.3 cm (12.3″)	–1.7 cm (–0.7″)
Knee	23.5 cm (9.3″)	22.7 cm (8.9″)	–0.8 cm (–0.3″)
Hem	21.0 cm (8.3″)	21.1 cm (8.3″)	+0.1 cm (±0.0″)

If you’ve worn the Nashville and liked its balance of room and classic shape, the WL-001 will feel like a natural progression—with a slightly cleaner seat and a modern take on the same tried-and-true straight silhouette.

The waist on the Nashville runs 3 inches larger than the tagged size (give or take), so you’ll need to size up one to the WL-001

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BENZAK B-02

The B-02 is Benzak’s answer to a straight fit with a modern European touch—clean, unfussy, and built to flatter without restricting.

With a mid-to-high rise and a strong top block, it’s a cut to give you room where you need it while keeping things streamlined throughout the leg.

I’ve known and deeply respected Lennaert—the founder of Benzak—since he launched the brand back in 2013. Over a decade later, I’m following in his footsteps by launching my own jeans on a pre-order model. He’s been, and continues to be, a true inspiration to me.

Benzak B-02 vs. Weirloom WL-001

Side by side, the B-02 is a touch more structured up top and slightly slimmer through the leg. The rise is a little higher, and the taper from the knee down is more noticeable. The WL-001 keeps things more roomy and relaxed throughout the lower leg, giving it a slightly more balanced profile overall.

	WL-001, size 31	BDD B-02, size 31	Difference
Waist	84.0 cm (33.1”)	85.0 cm (33.5”)	+1.0 cm (+0.4”)
Front Rise	26.4 cm (10.4”)	29.5 cm (11.6”)	+3.1 cm (+1.2”)
Back Rise	40.0 cm (15.7”)	40.0 cm (15.7”)	0.0 cm (±0.0”)
Thigh	33.0 cm (13.0”)	32.0 cm (12.6”)	–1.0 cm (–0.4”)
Knee	23.5 cm (9.3”)	22.0 cm (8.7”)	–1.5 cm (–0.6”)
Hem	21.0 cm (8.3”)	20.5 cm (8.1”)	–0.5 cm (–0.2”)

If you’ve worn the B-02 before and liked its straightforward top block but want something with less taper through the leg, the WL-001 could be a smart next step.

The waist on both jeans runs about two inches larger than the tagged size (give or take)—whatever size you wear in the B-02, you’ll likely want the same in my jeans.

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SAMURAI S510XX

The S510XX is one of Samurai’s most traditional fits—cut with a high rise, wide leg, and a slightly tapered but straight-feeling silhouette. It’s the kind of cut that pairs naturally with heavy-duty denim, and in the 21 oz. unsanforised version, it really leans into that rugged heritage appeal.

It’s a cut that’s evolved very little over the years, and for good reason: it’s built for movement, durability, and old-school denimheads who like their jeans full of character and comfort.

Samurai S510XX vs. Weirloom WL-001

Despite its reputation as a bold, traditional fit, the S510XX isn’t actually that far off from the WL-001. The rise is a little higher, and the hem slightly wider, but the differences in waist, back rise, and even the thigh are relatively modest.

	WL-001, size 31	S510, size 33	Difference
Waist	84.0 cm (33.1”)	83.5 cm (32.9″)	–0.5 cm (–0.2″)
Front Rise	26.4 cm (10.4”)	28.2 cm (11.1″)	+1.8 cm (+0.7″)
Back Rise	40.0 cm (15.7”)	39.4 cm (15.5″)	–0.6 cm (–0.2″)
Thigh	33.0 cm (13.0”)	31.9 cm (12.6″)	–1.1 cm (–0.4″)
Knee	23.5 cm (9.3”)	23.0 cm (9.1″)	–0.5 cm (–0.2″)
Hem	21.0 cm (8.3”)	21.6 cm (8.5″)	+0.6 cm (+0.2″)

The WL-001 feels a bit more streamlined through the seat and thigh, with a more modern shape overall—but if you’re used to the S510XX, the transition will feel natural.

The 510 runs small and follows traditional Japanese sizing—so you’ll likely need to size down two to get the right size in the WL-001.

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JAPAN BLUE J401

The J401 is part of Japan Blue’s “Circle” line—developed with western body types in mind to create a more tailored fit, with extra attention paid to the shape of the seat and thigh.

This is a modern straight cut with some quirks: a high front rise, sculpted hip, and a bit more taper than you might expect in the lower leg.

Japan Blue J401 vs. Weirloom WL-001

Both jeans aim for a straight-leg silhouette, but the J401 is more structured in the seat and rise. It sits higher at the front and back, and the upper block feels tighter through the hips.

On paper, the thigh and knee look almost identical—but Japan Blue measures the thigh further down the leg, which may understate the actual width at the top block. In practice, the J401 feels more structured through the hips.

It’s also worth noting that the J401 has a zip fly—the WL-001 (and all other jeans on the list) have a button fly.

	WL-001, size 31	JB J401, size 32	Difference
Waist	84.0 cm (33.1”)	86.0 cm (33.9”)	+2.0 cm (+0.8”)
Front Rise	26.4 cm (10.4”)	28.5 cm (11.2”)	+2.1 cm (+0.8”)
Back Rise	40.0 cm (15.7”)	39.0 cm (15.4”)	–1.0 cm (–0.4”)
Thigh	33.0 cm (13.0”)	33.0 cm (13.0”)	±0.0 cm (±0.0”)
Knee	23.5 cm (9.3”)	24.0 cm (9.4”)	+0.5 cm (+0.1”)
Hem	21.0 cm (8.3”)	21.0 cm (8.3”)	±0.0 cm (±0.0”)

This is a solid comparison if you’re used to Japanese straights but want something that wears more balanced and neutral—without veering into vintage or workwear territory.

The J401 runs small so you’ll likely need to size down one to get the right fit in the WL-001.

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NUDIE STEADY EDDIE

The Steady Eddie II is one of Nudie’s most popular fits—a relaxed, tapered jean with a clear Scandinavian touch. It’s roomy in the top block, offers a slightly higher rise than average, and tapers steadily from the knee down.

I wore Nudie jeans for years—my own pair of Average Joes (in the same Dry Selvage denim used here) now live in the archive at the Jeans School in Amsterdam. That fabric taught me the value of soaking unsanforised denim before wear.

Nudie Steady Eddie vs. Weirloom WL-001

The top half of these jeans actually lines up more closely than you might expect: the rise and thigh are only slightly larger on the Steady Eddie II.

But the Steady Eddie fit quickly tapers from the knee down, with a significantly slimmer hem and a narrower silhouette through the lower leg compared to the WL-001.

	WL-001, size 31	Steady Eddie, size 30	Difference
Waist	84.0 cm (33.1”)	84.0 cm (33.1”)	±0.0 cm (±0.0”)
Front Rise	26.4 cm (10.4”)	27.8 cm (10.9”)	+1.4 cm (+0.5”)
Back Rise	40.0 cm (15.7”)	39.6 cm (15.6”)	–0.4 cm (–0.1”)
Thigh	33.0 cm (13.0”)	31.7 cm (12.5”)	–1.3 cm (–0.5”)
Knee	23.5 cm (9.3”)	20.7 cm (8.1”)	–2.8 cm (–1.1”)
Hem	21.0 cm (8.3”)	17.6 cm (6.9”)	–3.4 cm (–1.4”)
Inseam	82.0 cm (32.3”)	81.2 cm (32.0”)	–0.8 cm (–0.3”)

If you want something with a similarly comfortable top block but a more traditional straight leg, the Weirloom WL-001 is the fit for you.

The Steady Eddie runs large in the waist—about three inches above the tag size—so you’ll likely need to size up one when moving to the WL-001.

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BRAVE STAR TRUE STRAIGHT

The True Straight is Brave Star’s take on an American heritage straight fit—cut with a higher rise, balanced leg, and a classic seat that leans into the workwear roots of denim. It’s a clean and unfussy fit that feels timeless, not trendy.

I’ve followed Brave Star since they started, and the True Straight has always struck me as their strongest and most versatile fit. It’s slightly roomier than a modern slim-straight but much more wearable than most relaxed fits. It’s designed to be lived in, and it shows.

Brave Star True Straight vs. Weirloom WL-001

The two fits line up closely. Both offer a classic straight silhouette with a mid-to-high rise and just a touch of taper. The Brave Star fit has a bit more room in the thigh and a slightly higher rise, but otherwise, the two are remarkably aligned.

	WL-001, size 31	True Straight (size 31)	Difference
Waist	84.0 cm (33.1″)	85.1 cm (33.5″)	+1.1 cm (+0.4″)
Front Rise	26.4 cm (10.4″)	27.9 cm (11.0″)	+1.5 cm (+0.6″)
Back Rise	40.0 cm (15.7″)	38.1 cm (15.0″)	–1.9 cm (–0.7″)
Thigh	33.0 cm (13.0″)	29.8 cm (11.7″)	–3.2 cm (–1.3″)
Knee	23.5 cm (9.3″)	22.2 cm (8.7″)	–1.3 cm (–0.5″)
Hem	21.0 cm (8.3″)	20.3 cm (8.0″)	–0.7 cm (–0.3″)

If you’re used to the True Straight, the WL-001 will feel very familiar—just a little more modern through the seat and top block.

The Brave Star waist runs roughly two inches larger than the tag (just like the WL-001), so you’ll want the same size in both jeans.

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GUSTIN STRAIGHT

The Straight is Gustin’s more modern straight-leg option—slightly slimmer than their Vintage Straight, but still cut with enough room through the top block and thigh to feel relaxed.

Gustin Straight vs. Weirloom WL-001

The WL-001 and the Straight from Gustin line up closely in the thigh and rise, but the Gustin fit tapers a bit through the leg and finishes with a slightly smaller hem.

	WL-001, size 31	Straight (size 32)	Difference
Waist	84.0 cm (33.1″)	83.8 cm (33.0″)	–0.2 cm (–0.1″)
Front Rise	26.4 cm (10.4″)	27.0 cm (10.6″)	+0.6 cm (+0.2″)
Back Rise	40.0 cm (15.7″)	38.5 cm (15.2″)	–1.5 cm (–0.6″)
Thigh	33.0 cm (13.0″)	33.5 cm (13.2″)	+0.5 cm (+0.2″)
Knee	23.5 cm (9.3″)	22.9 cm (9.0″)	–0.6 cm (–0.3″)
Hem	21.0 cm (8.3″)	20.3 cm (8.0″)	–0.7 cm (–0.3″)

Gustin size their jeans a little smaller than Weirlooms, so you’ll need to size down one from the Gustin Straight to the WL-001.

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ONI 622

The 622 is one of Oni’s more modern tapered fits—mid-rise, narrow through the knee, and cut with a leaner silhouette than their more traditional cuts.

Oni 622 vs. Weirloom WL-001

Compared to the WL-001, the 622 is trimmer throughout. The thigh and hem are both noticeably narrower, and there’s a more aggressive taper through the leg. The front rise is quite similar, though the seat sits a bit closer.

	WL-001, size 31	Oni 622 (size 33)	Difference
Waist	84.0 cm (33.1″)	85.0 cm (33.5″)	+1.0 cm (+0.4″)
Front Rise	26.4 cm (10.4″)	27.0 cm (10.6″)	+0.6 cm (+0.2″)
Back Rise	40.0 cm (15.7″)	38.6 cm (15.2″)	–1.4 cm (–0.5″)
Thigh	33.0 cm (13.0″)	31.0 cm (12.2″)	–2.0 cm (–0.8″)
Knee	23.5 cm (9.3″)	21.9 cm (8.6″)	–1.6 cm (–0.6″)
Hem	21.0 cm (8.3″)	18.5 cm (7.3″)	–2.5 cm (–1.0″)

The 622 feels slimmer and sharper overall, while the WL-001 keeps a more balanced straight-leg silhouette.

Oni used Japanese sizing, which means the waist pretty much measures the tagged in incesh—and that means you need to size down two from the 622 to the WL-001.

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ORSLOW 105

The 105 is orSlow’s most traditional fit, based closely on the 1960s Levi’s 501. It has a high rise, a slightly curved top block, and a roomy straight leg.

orSlow 105 vs. Weirloom WL-001

The 105 has a significantly higher rise than the WL-001, with a seat that scoops deeper and a looser fit through the top block.

The thigh is a bit wider, but the hem is nearly identical, giving the two jeans a surprisingly similar silhouette from the knee down.

	WL-001, size 31	orSlow 105 (3/L)	Difference
Waist	84.0 cm (33.1″)	85.0 cm (33.5″)	+1.0 cm (+0.4″)
Front Rise	26.4 cm (10.4″)	29.2 cm (11.5″)	+2.8 cm (+1.1″)
Back Rise	40.0 cm (15.7″)	42.6 cm (16.8″)	+2.6 cm (+1.0″)
Thigh	33.0 cm (13.0″)	34.5 cm (13.6″)	+1.5 cm (+0.6″)
Hem	21.0 cm (8.3″)	21.5 cm (8.5″)	+0.5 cm (+0.2″)

The WL-001 offers a more modern feel through the seat and rise—and orSlow uses a different sizing system.

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LVC 1947 501 (Made in Japan)

The 1947 501 reproduction from Levi’s Vintage Clothing is a mid-century classic: higher rise, narrower seat, and a straight leg.

The ‘Made in Japan’ version is cut and sewn in Kojima, with high attention to detail and a distinctly rigid fit that breaks in over time.

LVC 1947 501 vs. Weirloom WL-001

The 1947 501 is narrower everywhere. The thigh and top block fit closer, the front rise is slightly higher, and the taper from knee to hem is more pronounced.

Compared to the WL-001, it feels more vintage and … restrictive—especially before breaking in. The WL-001 offers a more contemporary and wearable straight fit.

	WL-001, size 31	1947 501, size 34*	Difference
Waist	84.0 cm (33.1″)	85.0 cm (33.5″)	+1.0 cm (+0.4″)
Front Rise	26.4 cm (10.4″)	28.2 cm (11.1″)	+1.8 cm (+0.7″)
Back Rise	40.0 cm (15.7″)	38.7 cm (15.2″)	–1.3 cm (–0.5″)
Thigh	33.0 cm (13.0″)	32.3 cm (12.7″)	–0.7 cm (–0.3″)
Knee	23.5 cm (9.3″)	21.0 cm (8.3″)	–2.5 cm (–1.0″)
Hem	21.0 cm (8.3″)	20.0 cm (7.9″)	–1.0 cm (–0.4″)

*Measurements are estimated post-shrinkage.

The Japanese-made 1947 501 is unsanforized and will shrink as much as 10%. Plus, it runs small, so you need to size down at least two probably three sizes for the WL-001.

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Naked & Famous TRUE GUY

Naked & Famous’s True Guy fit is their relaxed straight cut—high rise, generous seat, and a big 1950s-style top block. It’s one of their most comfort-focused silhouettes, typically paired with their signature heavyweight or novelty denim.

N&F True Guy vs. Weirloom WL-001

The True Guy has a significantly higher rise and a fuller seat. It feels almost oversized compared to the WL-001, especially above the knee. The hem is also slightly wider, giving it a blockier silhouette.

	WL-001, size 31	True Guy, size 31	Difference
Waist	84.0 cm (33.1″)	85.0 cm (33.5″)	+1.0 cm (+0.4″)
Front Rise	26.4 cm (10.4″)	30.5 cm (12.0″)	+4.1 cm (+1.6″)
Back Rise	40.0 cm (15.7″)	45.0 cm (17.7″)	+5.0 cm (+2.0″)
Thigh	33.0 cm (13.0″)	35.6 cm (14.0″)	+2.6 cm (+1.0″)
Hem	21.0 cm (8.3″)	22.3 cm (8.8″)	+1.3 cm (+0.5″)

The WL-001 is more balanced top-to-bottom, with a modern seat and just the right amount of ease.

The True Guy is sized similarly to the WL-001, so you probably need the same size.

The post How Weirloom Measures Up Against 14 Other Jeans appeared first on Denimhunters.

DENIM and PATCHES sourced this post originally published on this site