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A few years back, I watched a promising kids’ denim brand miss back-to-school season entirely. Their product was genuinely great – reinforced knees, adjustable waists, the kind of jeans parents rave about in reviews. But their fabric mill switched dye lots mid-order without flagging it, the shade mismatch failed their…
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There are a few pieces in my wardrobe I don’t really wear. Pieces that, I feel, don’t really belong in my style, however much I want them to.
One example is an A-2 leather jacket from Simmons Bilt—the one below, the one I’m wearing above is a vintage one I picked in San Francisco in 2013. The Simmons Bilt is custom-made, “lightweight” goatskin, and obviously fits me perfectly. A genuinely beautiful jacket. And I almost never wear it.
The real reason: I’m not really a leather jacket guy. Deep down, I probably wanted a biker jacket—that might’ve suited me better. But a biker jacket would totally clash with my sneakers, because it “requires” engineer boots, and then I’m suddenly Marlon Brando.
So the A-2 hangs there. A truly great jacket pointing somewhere I’m not going.
This is what happens when you start building a wardrobe before you’re clear on your denim style. Or when you think you can pull off a signature piece that’s just not you. The wardrobe guide is here to help: once you know your denim style, it’s time to start building a wardrobe around it, in the right order.
What I’ve learned about buying the wrong thing at the wrong time from the story of that leather jacket I almost never wear. This issue goes behind the wardrobe guide from my New to Raw Denim series.
The DH Weekly is my Friday column on raw denim and the clothes that get better with wear—care guides, product picks, restocks, and the occasional bit of denim history.
I’m probably not the only one who’s bought a leather jacket “too early.” You might also be tempted to get that pair of grail boots before you’ve figured out your jeans. Or a pile of accessories before any of it has something to work with.
My A-2 is a good example because it’s a signature piece—the kind of thing that defines an outfit and maybe even your entire style. It was an aspirational purchase: I bought it for the version of me that wears leather jackets (a version that doesn’t exist), not the one where I’m on a cargo bike doing school runs in Danish weather.
A leather jacket is wind-resistant but not really breathable, and definitely not something you pack light with. Leatherheads will disagree, but I’m not looking for a fight. My point is: a signature piece only works when the foundation is solid enough to carry it. And an aspirational purchase only works when your actual life gives it somewhere to go.
The wardrobe guide in the New to Raw Denim series runs through the categories in order—jeans, footwear, base layers first, then shirts, jackets, knitwear and outerwear, and only then the details that complete an outfit. Your denim style will influence every decision. And some of the advice is counterintuitive: on boots, on base layers, on when not to buy the thing you actually want.
This guide is part of the New to Raw Denim series. Once the wardrobe is there, the next guide is about keeping it going—how to look after everything you’ve just built. Or start with the hub if you’re coming in cold.
One thing I’m genuinely curious about: is the Foundation/Main Rotation/Details framework actually useful, or does it feel like too much structure? Let me know.
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The Rising Trend of Jeans as Shapewear Jeans have been a wardrobe staple for decades. We all love them here! In fact, they might be the defining garment of the Western world over the past 50 years, and probably the 2000’s-2015’s for modern clothes. However, jeans have never been static.…
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Raw denim has been my life for the better part of two decades. And yet, on any given day, you could walk past me on the street and have absolutely no idea what I do for a living.
I have a uniform. The foundation is a pair of regular straight jeans, mid-rise. A quality t-shirt, slightly boxy fit, usually white—lately, often the one from my own brand. And then on top, a plaid flannel. So far, pretty standard raw denim guy.
Then you look at my feet. Sneakers. Not Iron Rangers anymore, not engineer boots, not even a clean leather trainer. Slip-ons or running-inspired silhouettes. Sometimes, actual running shoes. And when it’s too long since my last haircut, I’ll also be wearing a (raw denim) baseball cap or my Heimat beanie.
That might read as style confusion. I’d say it’s what happens when you know your own denim style well enough that you don’t need to follow the rules anymore.
That’s what the style guide from the “New to Raw Denim” series is about: helping you find your direction before you start building a wardrobe—so that when you eventually ignore the rules, you’re doing it knowingly.
It starts with a pair of jeans I’ve never worn—and why that has everything to do with finding your denim style before you buy. This issue covers the style guide from my New to Raw Denim series.
New to the DH Weekly? It’s my Friday column on raw denim and heritage menswear—new guides, product picks, restocks, and the occasional bit of denim history. Sign up below.
I first mapped out denim style archetypes a decade ago in Blue Blooded. Types of person, not just directions. It made sense at the time.
Going back to that work for the new style guide, I kept some, dropped some, and rethought the entire framing. The person-based labels felt too fixed. Nobody is The Cowboy or The Rebel. But plenty of people lean that way, mix a bit of both, and build a wardrobe around it without ever putting a name on it.
Some of these styles are genuinely denim-first—Cowboy, Rebel, Hippie. Pull the jeans out, and the look falls apart. Others, like Military or Streetwear, are more complicated: denim belongs there, but it’s not the anchor.
Maybe you always reach for a loose, straight cut and you’ve been pairing it with flannels and work boots without thinking twice—that’s not random, that’s what I’ve defined as Workwear style in the guide.
Or maybe you wear slim straight jeans, a white tee, and a leather jacket every time—that’s Rebel, and maybe you are too. Or you’re the guy in the relaxed fit, the big Oxford shirt, the 90s trainers—Dad Style, and you’re in good company.
Most people already have a denim style of their own. The guide just names it. Which of these is yours? That’s what the guide is for.
Years ago, I was gifted a pair of Levi’s Vintage Clothing 1915 jeans—produced in 2010, as best I can tell. Made in the USA from Cone Mills selvedge. No belt loops, suspender buttons, a cinch-back, a cut so high-rise and wide in the leg that it belongs to a different era entirely.
Objectively, they’re very special jeans. The kind you don’t just go out and buy. But I’ve barely worn them.
As I was digging through my stack of jeans looking for those LVCs writing this Weekly, I found another pair that proves the point just as well: a pair of Wrangler Bluebell 11MW, also gifted to me. Never worn outside the house. Not once.
The cowboy aesthetic has crept into my peripheral vision lately—Yellowstone, Instagram, people like Albert Muzquiz wearing it with total confidence. Maybe it’s time I wear them, but I digress.
The point is that both pairs have been sitting there more or less unworn for years. Not because they were the wrong size, or even the wrong fit. But because they didn’t fit my style at all.
That’s what fit actually does. It’s not just about how jeans sit on your body. It’s about where they point the whole outfit. Know that first, then find your archetype.
The guide that this Weekly is all about is part of the New to Raw Denim series. If you know your denim style, the next guide shows you what to actually build around it. Or start at the hub and go from there.
I’d also like to know what you think of this format. These guides are something I want to work well for people coming to Denimhunters for the first time, and if you’ve been reading the Weekly for a while, you’re exactly the person I want to hear from.
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Denimsandjeans Vietnam 2026 concluded its 8th edition successfully, bringing together the global denim value chain in Ho Chi Minh City over two days. The event continued to strengthen Vietnam’s
position as one of Asia’s most dynamic denim sourcing and manufacturing hubs. At the same
time, it offered focused discussions on innovation, sustainability, design,and the evolving opportunities
shaping the future of the denim industry in Southeast Asia.
OPENING CEREMONY
The event opened on June 24, 2026, with an Opening Ceremony. Mr. Vu Duc Giang, Chairman of the Vietnam Textile and Apparel Association (VITAS), shared insights on Vietnam’s growing potential within the global textile and apparel industry. This was followed by remarks from Dr. Dang Vu Hung, Chairman & CEO of PPJ Group, highlighting the role of Vietnamese industry leadership in shaping the future of denim manufacturing in Southeast Asia.
Visitor Profiles
The show welcomed more than 750 visitors across both days, with strong international representation.
Visitors included sourcing teams, designers, and decision-makers from Japan, Korea, China, Cambodia,
Sri Lanka, India, Hong Kong, America, and across Southeast Asia. Key international brands and companies in attendance included Gap, Levi’s, Calvin Klein, Muji, Edwin, ITOCHU, Terra Korea, L-World Korea, Crystal HK, Walmart, Saitex and many others. It also included major Vietnamese industry players such as Phong Phu, MGF, Vinatex, Nien Hsing Garment, Nha Be Garment, Thuan Hai Jeans, Marvel Cambodia. Alongside this, prominent Vietnamese local brands including V Sixtyfour, Yame, Routine, Blue Exchange, Ninomaxx, and many others were also present.
Trend Area
The Trend Area offered a curated lens on where denim is headed. Anachronistic Roots merged classic western workwear with East Asian heritage through dense rigid denim in herringbone and indigo plaids.
Bio-Tech Futurism showcased lightweight, bio-based stretch fabrics that look premium but are rooted in clean, circular manufacturing. Earth-Bound Pigments explored natural dyes & plant based blends of hemp, organic cotton , recycled fibers.Smart Utility & Tech Denim responded to Southeast Asia’s climate realities with moisture-managing, temperature-regulating fabrics. Cyber-Athleisure & Digital Aesthetics captured the screen-to-street sensibility through metallic and 3D jacquard denim that looks industrial but wears as softly as activewear.
Denim Bazaar
The Denim Bazaar was created as a platform for local artisans, small businesses, and emerging creators to showcase and promote their brands. Unlike the main exhibition area, the Bazaar (B2C space) focused on independent labels, handcrafted products, upcycled denim creations, accessories, and
small-scale collections. It gave visitors an opportunity to discover unique denim products while allowing local creators to connect directly with potential customers and industry professionals.
The idea was to support local talent and provide a space where smaller brands could gain visibility as part of the larger denim community.
Workshops
Workshops played a key role in engaging designers, students, and industry professionals through hands-on learning and experimentation. Renewjeans Workshop included denim painting and
customization workshop where visitors painted and customized denim tote bags, wallets, and canvas
artworks. Fabric for the workshop was sponsored by Viet Hong Denim. HMS Stone Workshop conducted a hands-on session where participants used HMS Designer Pens and stone wash inspired tools to customize denim products and experiment with surface design. Bottle Holders were
sponsored by Tuong Long Vietnam and Denim Bags were sponsored by Advance Denim.
Panel Discussions & Talks
AI In Denim: Opportunities, Applications And The Future Of Product Development
The discussion featured Jason Fernandez (Director Global Sourcing , Development , VF Corporation) and Michael Lam (Director, Advance Denim). It was moderated by Janet Lui (Senior Manager , Design &
Product Development – Denim Division , Crystal Intl. Group Ltd). The discussion addressed the opportunities and applications of Artificial Intelligence in denim, including its impact on product development and the future of design innovation.
Vietnam’s Denim Evolution: Local To Global
The discussion featured Khiêm Nguyễn Ngọc Duy (YAME) and Romeo M. Ordas (Viet Hong Textile
Dyeing JSC). It was moderated by Ana Paula Alves de Oliveira, Strategic Director at Be Disobedient.
The discussion explored Vietnam’s denim evolution, tracing its journey from local manufacturing roots to its expanding presence in the global denim supply chain.
When Creativity Meets Algorithms: The New Era of Generative Design & Product Development
The program included a presentation by Janet Lui, (Senior Manager, Design & Product Development
Denim Division at Crystal International Group Limited, HK). Titled “When Creativity Meets Algorithms: The New Era of Generative Design and Product Development,” the session outlined how AI and generative tools are reshaping design workflows, product development cycles, and creative possibilities within the denim industry.
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Western Hat Brands That Still Feel Right With Denim in 2026 Image by Alyssa Jane on Unsplash The western hat and denim pairing has been a wardrobe constant for over a century, but the way the look works in 2026 differs meaningfully from how it worked even a decade ago.…
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The 8th edition of D&J-Denimsandjeans India was successfully held with participation from across the denim and textile value chain, bringing together manufacturers, brands, sourcing houses, and solution providers on a single platform.
Visitor Profile
The show welcomed over 1100 visitors, including leading international and domestic brands, retailers, and sourcing companies. Notable attendees included Tshepo Jeans, Inditex, H&M, Hugo Boss, Puma, PVH, Tommy Hilfiger, Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren, Flying Machine, Levi’s, Target, Myntra, Amazon, The Pant Project, The Bear House, Banana Club, Bestseller, Rare Rabbit, Trends, Zudio, Lifestyle, Aditya Birla Group, All We Wear Group, Texport, Dynawash (Sri Lanka), along with several other buying houses and industry professionals.
The visitor mix reflected strong representation from design, sourcing, product development, and sustainability teams.
40+
Exhibitors
Denim Fabric, Garment Manufacturers, Accessory, Chemical, Laundry And Technology
10+
Countries
India, Italy, Austria, Republic of San Marino, USA, Singapore, Spain, Turkey, South Korea etc.
2000+
Visitors
Decision Makers From Top Denim Brands, Retailer, Buying House, Factory And Traders
5+
Seminar, Workshop,Talk
International Experts Who Spoke On The Latest Trend, Innovation, Sustainability And Technology
Exhibitor Overview
The exhibition featured a diverse group of companies across fibers, fabrics, garments, chemicals, trims, and technology.
Key Participants Included:
• Arvind Limited, Nandan Denim, Jindal Worldwide, LNJ Denim, Oswal Denim, Ginni International, Maruti Denim, Suryalakshmi, Syama Denims
• Reliance Industries, Birla Cellulose, Lenzing, LYCRA, Hyosung
• Tonello, Officina39, Brongo, Ramsons, Yilmak Makina, Vertex Technology
• Aadi Sustainability Solutions, Anubha Industries, Shakti Arts, Indaco Jeans, Ultra Denim
• Zaitex / Ravchem, Panam Biochem, SF Dyes
• Golden Fashion, Khyaati Leather, Fashion Accessories, Copen United
The exhibitor mix (40 companies) ensured representation across the full supply chain, from raw materials to finished garments and processing technologies.
Knowledge Sessions & Panels
The event featured a series of panel discussions, talks, and presentations addressing key industry themes across sourcing, sustainability, innovation, and market evolution.
From Meme to Mill: How Gen-Z Is Rewriting Fashion’s Supply Chain
Regenerative Cotton from India: From Farm To Fashion (Hugo Boss x Raddis®Cotton)
Rethinking Denim Texture: Innovation Starts At The Fiber
Indian Denim Brands – Reinvention Or Rejuvenation
Making India the Preferred Sourcing Destination: Vision, Readiness & Reality
From Process To Purpose – Where Technology Meets Sustainable Chemistry
Trend Area (WGSN) – A/W 27/28 Forecast
The Trend Area, curated in collaboration with WGSN, showcased key A/W 27/28 Denim Fabric, Wash & Finish Forecasts across two core directions: Unfiltered and Human Touch. The display translated global trend insights into practical design, material, and finish innovations for the denim industry.
A/W 27/28: Unfiltered
• Love Worn – Blue Fingers
Focused on aged, worn, and repaired aesthetics, positioning imperfections as a new status symbol. Key directions included weathered finishes, rust and pigment treatments, and visible mending, supported by sustainable materials such as recycled and regenerative cotton blends
• Crafted With Care
Highlighted construction-led design, with colourful threads becoming a defining feature. Emphasis was placed on sustainable sourcing, non-tradi-tional stitching details, and circular solutions such as dissolvable threads for improved recyclability.
• Truly Romantic
Introduced a softer, decorative approach to denim through lace, florals, and layered techniques. Lightweight blends and upcycled materials supported a feminine, occasionwear-inspired direction.
A/W 27/28: Human Touch
• Messy Play
Explored expressive, artistic finishes combining handmade and digital techniques. Key elements included bleach effects, pigment applications, and DIY-inspired customization.
• Moody Animal
Reinterpreted animal patterns in tonal, textured forms suited for winter, using techniques such as laser, jacquards, and coated finishes across darker colour palettes.
• Photo Real
Focused on bold, photorealistic and graphic prints, incorporating digital printing and layered surface techniques to create statement, narrative-driv-en denim.
Overall, the Trend Area emphasized a shift toward authenticity, craftsmanship, and expressive surface design, supported by sustainable materials and innovative finishing techniques.
Workshops & Engagement Activities
A sustainability-focused workshop by Karmann explored upcycling through hands-on activities using fabric scraps.
A key highlight was the inclusion of handcrafted keychains made by specially-abled artisans, bringing attention to inclusive craftsmanship and the value of their skill and creativity within the design ecosystem.
Participants engaged in simple stitching techniques and created small upcycled products, while the session also reinforced the importance of circular design and responsible material use
Conclusion
The 8th edition of Denimsandjeans India continued to serve as a focused platform for business interaction, knowledge exchange, and industry networking. The participation of key global and domestic players reflects ongoing interest in India as a sourcing destination and innovation hub for denim and related segments.
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Why Three Pairs of Spanx Jeans Might Be Enough to Replace All the Bottoms in Your Closet Modern fashion seems to be moving away from going overboard and more toward dressing with purpose. Rather than keeping lots of bottoms that barely ever get worn, many women are starting to go…
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