The One Thing Only Super Heavyweight Denim Can Do

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Want Dramatic 3D Fades? Your Next Pair of Selvedge Should Be Super Heavyweights 

We’ve long preached the virtues of heavy selvedge denim. Straight out of the box, it looks and feels like nothing else, and the more we wear it, the better it gets.

Many of those who ease a heavy pair through its long break-in period are transformed by the experience. They’re converts for life.

But what we call heavy selvedge covers a lot of ground. What we’re talking about here is the really heavy stuff. Heavyweight denim starts at 16 oz., but super-heavyweights (20 oz. and heavier) are an entirely different breed. They fight harder and longer, and their break-in period can stretch into months.

But there’s something waiting for you at the end of this break-in period, and it’s not just the way it looks and feels. Super-heavyweights fade in a very particular way that lighter denim simply can’t imitate: fades are three-dimensional.

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The Science of 3D Fades (It “Remembers”)

Raw denim’s biggest draw card is its unmatched ability to fade in ways that reflect how it has been worn and made. Every denim fades differently, and every fully faded pair is entirely unique to the wearer.

Contrasting fade patterns are the scars left behind from a battle between you and your pair. When you strain and stretch stiff denim, the indigo flakes off the surface, exposing the white core of the yarns. The result is whiskers on the top block, combs behind the knees, and stacks around the ankles.

These fade patterns emerge wherever the denim creases, bends, and folds. In lighter pairs, the denim creases quite sharply. Whiskers, combs, and stacks look as though they’ve been carved into the surface of the denim with a dull blade.

Extremely heavy selvedge, though, doesn’t fold or crease. It rolls. Whiskers, combs, and stacks are thicker and more dramatic—like forks of lightning streaking across a dark blue sky.

Here’s the important bit: The thick rolls of denim give fades both thrust and depth. The white fade patterns sit on the crest of waves. The jeans aren’t just scarred—they’re a vivid three-dimensional map of your journey and your body’s movement patterns.

The effect is similar on middleweight pairs, but, with heavy denim, the 3D effect is far more pronounced and dramatic. It’s not just about the sharp contrast of dark and light tones. It’s about how the most dramatically faded parts of the denim thrust themselves forward.

To produce this effect, all we need to do is start with a heavy pair and then wear it a lot before washing it for the first time. We need to wait until the fades have well and truly emerged before that first wash. Depending on your lifestyle, six to eight months of daily wear is usually enough. 

After that first wash, something magical happens. The denim “remembers”. Those white fade patterns aren’t just a different colour than the rest of the pair. They’re materially different. They bend more easily, meaning that, when you start wearing it again, the denim rolls in precisely the same way and in the same places

We don’t need to guide this process in any way. Just sit back and watch as, day after day, the 3D effect slowly re-emerges. Whiskers, combs, and stacks all rise off of the surface, flowing through the same channels they remember.

These 3D fades are the return we get on the deeper investment of both time and money, and they make every dollar and every day we spend in the pair worth it and then some. No wonder so many fade fanatics swear by super heavyweight selvedge.

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Heavy Selvedge Built for 3D Fades

For the most dramatic high-contrast fades, start with pairs that are 20 oz. or heavier. The heavier the denim, the thicker the rolls and the more pronounced the 3D effect will be. If you’re looking for the full range of heavyweight options, this guide covers the brands worth knowing.

One thing worth noting: The same effect is possible with black denim, though you’ll need to push significantly harder and longer to get there. For a first attempt, indigo is the better starting point.

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Iron Heart XHS

The first name in super heavyweight selvedge, Iron Heart’s XHS selvedge may never have been the world’s heaviest selvedge (their 21 oz. denim briefly held that title), but its reputation for striking contrasts has made it the first choice for those serious about fades.

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Samurai 25 oz. Selvedge

Each year, Samurai introduces new versions of its super heavyweight selvedge. Primed for serious contrast fades, these stiff denims shed indigo like snakes shed their skin. Sells out quickly, but the world-class fades will be worth waiting for.

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SOSOBROTHERS Ghost Indigo and Breaker of Legs

Since their foundation, the SOSOBROTHERS have positioned themselves as a go-to brand for those in the search of exceptionally heavy denims. Their 33 oz. Breaker of Legs selvedge was, for a time, the world’s heaviest, and their 25 oz. Ghost Selvedge is an excellent slightly lighter option.

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Naked & Famous Elephants

The current title holders for the world’s heaviest selvedge, Naked & Famous shocked the selvedge world with their nearly unwearable 40 oz. selvedge. Their Elephants (with new versions released each year) have legions of fans, and for very good reason.

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Wingman Heavyweights

This Indonesian brand has started making inroads in Europe and North America thanks to their ability to provide unmatched bang for buck for those who want that fade-primed heavy selvedge experience. Extremely popular among fade diehards in Southeast Asia.

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Brave Star Heavyweights

The only North American brand to win the Indigo Invitational, Brave Stars are a popular choice for faders looking for tough-as-nails selvedge combined with stylish cuts. Their heaviest pairs sell out quickly but are restocked frequently.

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Unbranded 21 oz. Selvedge

One of the most budget-friendly selvedge brands, this Naked & Famous offshoot is one of the easiest paths for hard-to-handle heavyweights. Stripped down to the bare essentials, these pairs offer exceptionally good fade potential for the price.

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OldBlue Beasts

In part because this Indonesian brand has only a handful of retailers outside of Southeast Asia, their pairs are a hot commodity in Europe and North America. One of the world’s best heavy fade foundations, this legendary denim is worth waiting for. If it’s in stock, pounce!

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Complete the Heavy Kit

Of course, 3D fades like the ones pictured above aren’t limited to jeans. Heavy selvedge denim jackets complete the look, and the fade potential is truly off the charts. Look for some of the heaviest pieces on our guide to selvedge denim jackets here.

The post The One Thing Only Super Heavyweight Denim Can Do appeared first on Denimhunters.

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