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DENIMandPATCHES

Wide on Time: Tellason’s New Fredy Fit Reviewed

August 22, 2025 by DENIMandPATCHES

This blog post is sponsored by Tellason. Read about how we run this site here.

A New Fit That Stays True to Tellason’s Roots

Skinny jeans have all but vanished from the denim landscape. And I don’t think anyone’s missing them. 

Slimmer silhouettes will be back eventually, but for now, it’s refreshing to enjoy jeans that don’t feel painted on. Wider legs give us room to breathe, room to play, and ultimately a fit that looks better on basically anyone.

Tellason is not in the business of chasing trends. Since its founding in the late 00s, the ethos of the San Francisco brand has been simple: timeless fits, honest materials, and details that make sense. That philosophy hasn’t changed. But founders Pete and Tony do listen, and when customers started asking for a true wide leg, they responded.

New fits don’t come often from Tellason—which makes the Fredy worth paying attention to. What’s new here is not the denim (I’ll get to that later) or the details (reassuringly Tellason), but the fit. And that’s why it makes sense to start with that.


FIT

Wide Is the New Slim

Wide-leg jeans have been gaining ground for a while; first in women’s wardrobes and more recently in menswear. 

In the raw denim niche, things move slower. Denimheads are rarely first-movers—if anything, they want clothes that feel proven, familiar, and timeless. In marketing textbooks, we would be late majority at best, but that’s a not bad thing. 

Still, even in our niche of menswear, the tide is turning: skinnies are gone, regular fits are back, and looser cuts are in high demand. Retailers report they can’t keep wider fits in stock.

A New Chapter in Tellason’s Fits

The Fredy is Tellason’s first new fit in years, and the timing couldn’t be better. It’s the brand’s widest silhouette to date: a high rise with a true wide leg.

Tellason has always been conservative about fit development, with classic cuts like the straight leg Ankara and the slim-tapered Ladbroke Grove anchoring the range. The Fredy is a new chapter, but it still feels true to Tellason’s DNA.

That’s what makes the Fredy so interesting. It’s not just another fit—it’s the brand’s acknowledgement that this shift is real and lasting. 

How the Fredy Fits and Feels

The best way to truly understand a fit is to see it on a body. For this review, Tellason sent me a size 33—the size my brother-in-law and go-to Tellason model, Frederik, wears in these.

He’s 191 cm (6’3”) tall and around 90 kg (just shy of 200 lbs), an ex-hockey goalie with proper thighs. At 27, he’s come of age in the skinny/slim era, and this is by far the widest fit I’ve ever seen him wear. But it suits him well.

The tagged 33 fit his waist as expected without sizing up or down from his normal jeans size in Western brands.

Measured flat (size 33):

  • Leg opening: 25.5 cm. For comparison, Tellason’s Ankara in size 33 measures ~21.5 cm, and the Ladbroke Grove is just 18.5 cm. The Fredy is therefore significantly wider, both in absolute terms and in how it wears.
  • Thigh: 35.5 cm, roomy but not overblown.
  • Knee: 27.5 cm, keeps the line straight through the leg.
  • Front rise: 32 cm total, with an extra-long section below the fly that changes how the rise sits on the body.
  • Back rise: 44 cm.
  • Inseam: 93 cm—Frederik needed a hefty, Japanese-style cuff.

When worn, it’s clear that Fredy is high-waisted—but it’s balanced with the rest of the cut. The extra length in the front rise—especially below the fly—shifts the proportions with a vintage-adjacent nod to 40s–50s workwear silhouettes without drifting into costume territory.

The thigh is accommodating, the knee holds the line, and the generous hem does the talking. Practically, the long inseam gives you options—hem for your exact break (that’s what I’d do) or embrace a full-sized cuff and show off the selvedge.

The result is Tellason’s widest fit yet, but it feels intentional rather than trendy. It’s not a novelty cut. It’s a grown-up wide leg that makes sense now—and will still make sense ten years from now.


FABRIC

From Cone to Kaihara

Tellason currently offers three core selvedge denims across the range: a lightweight 12.5 oz., a heavyweight 16.5 oz., and the midweight reviewed here at 14.75 oz. 

All three selvedges trace their DNA back to Cone Mills White Oak in Greensboro, North Carolina—once the crown jewel of American denim.

Cone’s closure at the end of 2017 forced Tellason to rethink its sourcing. For a time, they worked through stockpiled rolls from White Oak, but eventually, like everyone else, they had to move on.

Rather than compromise, they turned to Kaihara in Japan, one of the world’s most respected selvedge denim producers. Pete and Tony didn’t just buy fabric off the shelf; they redeveloped their three signature denims from scratch. 

The result is continuity with what made Tellason’s jeans special in the first place, combined with the kind of meticulous production you expect from Kaihara. You can read more about that transition in this blog post.

75/25 American/Australian—Blended for Strength and Character

The 14.75 oz. denim is woven from a blend of 75% U.S. cotton and 25% Australian. Using two origins of fibre is normal, and it shows Tellason’s intent: balance strength, staple length, and consistency.

The denim is double ring-spun—both the warp and the weft yarns are ring-spun—which means the yarn is stronger and has more character than open-end or even single ring-spun denims. 

Run your fingers across it and you’ll feel that character immediately: A slightly coarse hand, the kind that promises subtle vertical streaks over time.

A Deep Indigo with Hints of Red Beneath

The yarns are rope-dyed in synthetic indigo, which is standard in modern selvedge production—and the best method for long-lasting fades.

While Tellason haven’t disclosed the number of dips (you gotta let them have some trade secrets), the outcome speaks for itself. The denim is saturated—so dark it borders on black at first glance.

Only under bright light do you begin to see its true depth; there’s a whisper of red cast beneath that dark blue surface.

It’s the kind of dye job that rewards patience: With wear, every crease will carve through those layers to reveal brighter blues underneath.

Midweight on Paper, Heavier in the Hand

On paper, 14.75 oz. sits comfortably in the “midweight” category. But in reality, this denim feels heavier—at least in its unworn state, which is what I’m testing. 

That’s partly the density of the weave, partly the crispness of the finishing, and partly the coarser yarns. It’s heavy enough to satisfy denim traditionalists who want their jeans to feel substantial, but it’s not a punishing weight—you can wear these all year.

That balance is why this denim works so well for the Fredy. A wide leg cut demands a fabric that drapes with authority. Too light—lighter than the 12.5 oz. that it’s also available int—and it would look floppy; too heavy, and it would be cumbersome. 14.75 oz. hits the sweet spot, keeping the silhouette clean without sacrificing comfort.

Finishing That Improves Everyday Wear

Kaihara sanforizes, singes, and skews the denim. The holy trinity of fabric finishing.

The sanforization keeps shrinkage to a minimum, making sizing more predictable. Singeing burns off surface fuzz, which helps the fabric age with sharper contrasts. Skewing prevents leg twist—a detail you might not notice right away but that makes a difference in the long run. 

These steps are practical rather than romantic, they show that Tellason prioritises jeans that wear well day in, day out.

The Result: American Spirit, Japanese Refinement

The story of this denim is one of continuity and refinement. From Cone to Kaihara, the fabric has kept its American spirit but been sharpened with Japanese precision. 

The denim is dark, textured, and substantial, with the promise of dramatic fades down the road. In other words, it’s exactly the kind of cloth you’d want for a wide-leg jean designed to be lived in.


FEATURES

Familiar Tellason Details

If the fit is what sets the Fredy apart, the details are what make it feel distinctly Tellason.

The jeans are finished with the same care and intention that runs through everything Pete and Tony put out—nothing added for the sake of it, nothing left to chance.

Five Thread Colours, One Consistent Story

One of the standout aspects of the Fredy—and any Tellason jean—is the threadwork.

Tellason uses five different thread colours across the jeans: Pigskin (their warm tobacco tone), yellow (aka what I call ‘lemon’), navy, indigo, and charcoal. 

The result is subtle from the front—mostly tobacco—but the back pocket alone shows the full palette. The double rows along the top-stitch feature both lemon and tobacco, while the “T” signature combines indigo and tobacco, anchored by blind bar tacks in charcoal.

The thread gauge is consistent and the SPI is kept even across the jean, but the play of colour gives them a layered character.

Like on the back pockets, the waistband and yoke also both feature the two-colour combo of lemon and tobacco. 

Lastly, there’s the hem, which gets a small but clever twist: Tobacco on the outside, indigo on the inside. It’s a clean, modern detail that feels very Tellason.

Practical Choices That Put Fit First

Another decision that sets Tellason jeans—including the Fredy—apart is the yoke construction. 

Tellason jeans are yoke-over-leg-panel, not the traditional leg-panel-over-yoke you’ll find on Levi’s and most other brands. 

The reasoning is practical: It makes sliding your hands into the back pockets smoother, and, according to Pete and Tony, the jeans just fit better this way.

The outseam is sewn with a single lock stitch rather than a chain stitch, which is what purists might expect. But the choice was intentional (of course): A lock stitch is more durable, and with navy thread, it’s practically invisible from the outside, even when you “split” the seam.

The inseam and hem, however, are chain-stitched—the hem in particular gets that nice roping effect we denim fans chase.

Other small touches round out the construction: lemon overlocks on the fly, a diagonal top button stitch (instead of the familiar V-stitch), tucked belt loops, and deep, sturdy pockets. These may sound like minor details, but taken together, they speak to the brand’s consistent mix of utility and refinement.

Honest Hardware, Durable Labels, No Gimmicks

The hardware sticks to Tellason’s no-nonsense philosophy. Buttons and rivets come from YKK, with nickel-plated aluminium for the buttons and copper oxide finish on the rivets. They’re unbranded, which is a bit unusual but very deliberate: clean, timeless, and not tied to any specific era or logo trend.

The leather patch is from Tanner Goods—vegetable-tanned cowhide, extra thick and sturdy, with Tellason’s cowboy-inspired logo stamped into it.

You’ll also find the logo on the woven label that’s centred inside the waistband. Speaking of the inside, there’s also a care label that explains the fabric’s and the garment’s proud origins. 

The pocket bags themselves are rigid, pre-shrunk 100% cotton at a hefty 8 oz., while the back pockets are reinforced with a lighter fabric, made of a cotton-poly mix to keep shrinkage in check.

Small Decisions, Big Payoff in Wearability

Put all of this together, and you get jeans that are quietly but carefully considered. 

The stitching balances contrast and subtlety, the hardware is functional and honest, the labels and pocket bags are sturdy without being fussy. 

You won’t find gimmicks here—just choices made to last. (Actually, there is one hidden feature on the jeans. I wouldn’t call it a gimmick, but it’s definitely got some humour, and I love it.)

Verdict: A Wide Leg Done Right, the Tellason Way

The Fredy shows that Tellason doesn’t chase trends—but it also doesn’t ignore the world outside its workshop. Pete and Tony heard the call for a wider leg, and they answered with one that feels both timely and timeless.

Everything about these jeans reflects Tellason’s approach: the cut is new but rooted in tradition, the fabric carries the brand’s DNA from Cone Mills through Kaihara, and the features balance utility with refinement. Nothing is showy, but everything makes sense.

This isn’t a fit that screams for attention. Instead, it’s the kind of jean that grows into your wardrobe and feels natural after a few wears. The wide leg isn’t exaggerated; it’s purposeful. The denim isn’t flashy; it’s substantial. The details aren’t gimmicky; they’re functional.

That makes the Fredy a safe bet for denim purists looking to try something looser without drifting into fashion-victim territory. And for those who’ve been waiting for a grown-up wide leg to pair with boots, sneakers, or just about anything—it’s finally here.

BUY TELLASON’S FREDY JEANS HERE

The post Wide on Time: Tellason’s New Fredy Fit Reviewed appeared first on Denimhunters.

DENIM and PATCHES sourced this post originally published on this site

Filed Under: Blog

Levi’® Blue Tab™ Collection – Second Drop

August 22, 2025 by DENIMandPATCHES

levi

Levi’® Blue Tab™ collection is the brand’s most elevated expression of denim craftsmanship to date. 

With its latest Blue Tab™ drop, the brand is delivering its most elevated and sophisticated expression of denim artistry. The premium collection celebrates Japanese denim in its purest form through covetable fits and impeccable construction that honors time-honored traditions while embracing decidedly modern details.

Photographed by renowned photographer, Juergen Teller, the images capture elevated silhouettes against the serene backdrop of a traditional Japanese sento (bath house). The photography reflects the artistry that gives Japanese denim its unique character and exceptional quality. 

Japanese denim
jeans

This season’s Blue Tab™ collection honors the beauty of Japanese denim through elevated construction, utilitarian silhouettes transformed by sculptural forms, and impeccable details. Each piece is crafted from premium Japanese denim, representing peak-level craftsmanship where craft meets vision.

Featuring sculptural updates and intricate details that turn classic silhouettes into something completely new, the collection transforms Japanese denim entirely. 

For men, the collection features sophisticated pieces that blend traditional workwear with contemporary refinement. The Naval Sack Coat takes inspiration from functional mariner pieces from the ‘40s, elevated with quilted lining and donut buttons. The Relaxed Button-down is crafted with premium Japanese denim and modern tailoring, while the Type I Jacket offers a modernized interpretation featuring tailored sleeves and a slightly cropped fit. Additional tops include the Work Shirt and Relaxed Tee, each representing elevated Americana with impeccable construction. 

The women’s offerings emphasize sophisticated denim tailoring and feminine craftsmanship with pieces that honor the legacy of denim craftsmanship. The Mariner Peacoat reinvents the classic peacoat with an artful cropped fit and a removable satin vest lining that can be worn on its own. The Shank Trucker features elevated tailoring that bridges workwear and contemporary style. 

denim

The Blue Tab™ collection is now available at select Levi’s® stores and online. Each piece in the collection carries the distinctive Blue Tab™ label, marking it as part of this premium expression of denim craftsmanship.

The post Levi’® Blue Tab™ Collection – Second Drop first appeared on Denimology.

DENIM and PATCHES sourced this post originally published on this site

Filed Under: Blog

Post Malone In Skims And Wrangler – Ad Campaign

August 21, 2025 by DENIMandPATCHES

Wrangler

SKIMS Fall 2025 ad campaign, features Post Malone amid rugged, outdoorsy vibes that perfectly blend wilderness energy with high-comfort loungewear.

jeans

And of course, denim included! Being a long-time fan of Wrangler, in the campaign, Malone rocked one of his favorite Wrangler jeans. The Wrangler® Cowboy Cut® Slim Fit Jeans.

So yes, SKIMS is really betting on their menswear, and for that they just brought in Malone to prove the point! The launch follows the company’s October 2023 menswear debut, when the line was introduced alongside football star Neymar Jr.

Photographed by Theo Wenner against the rugged backdrop of Utah, Malone models Skims’ Heavyweight Fleece, debuting for the first time in the line.

Skims

SKIMS’ menswear drop includes a limited-edition camo series, underwear, fleece separates, and relaxed lounge pieces. The collection launches officially today, August 21st, and is available to shop for on the SKIMS’ website.

The post Post Malone In Skims And Wrangler – Ad Campaign first appeared on Denimology.

DENIM and PATCHES sourced this post originally published on this site

Filed Under: Blog

JELADO – “Last Resort Denim”

August 20, 2025 by DENIMandPATCHES

Founded in 2005 by Yohei (Goto-san) after running a vintage shop, JELADO is deeply rooted in Americana aesthetics spanning the 1930s to ’70s. The brand meticulously re-creates vintage garments, offering modern interpretations free from nostalgia’s limitations.

Jelado

“LASTRESORT DENIM” is JELADO’s greatest masterpiece to date, but this time they have created a denim that is even wilder and has a stronger vintage feel. Their Last Resort fabrics are technical recreations based on real, disassembled Levi’s XX denim.

If you are a fan of selvedge, Japanese denim and vintage, this is definitely a brand which should be on your radar:

JELADO offers a compelling blend of museum-level authenticity and modern wearability. From the meticulous Age of Longing reproductions to the workwear-forward 55Denim, the brand speaks directly to denim aficionados who appreciate craftsmanship and storytelling.

“Using a black tag, we have produced an early 47 model, which is one of the most popular XX models of all time. This is a special denim created using a new approach by dismantling, analyzing and recreating XX denim. We sampled a vintage item in our possession that measures 32 inches, the so-called golden size, and faithfully reproduced the fit of that time.

The particular item we approached this time has been reproduced with all the key features that would enable us to identify its age, such as the leather patch, single-sided tabs, long side stitching, and thick belt loops similar to those used in the Beltroop War. However, we also carefully recreated the individual items’ distinctive features, such as the coin pocket being sewn quite low and the back pocket having a significantly larger seam allowance.

A black LASTRESORT tag is sewn onto the pocket opening.

denim

The inseam is sewn in three steps to create a firm fit. We sew with consideration of the intentions behind the designs of the time, such as shifting the seam of the back yoke and differing the length of the waistband between the front and back to minimize tension.

“The jeans are reproduced while taking into account Levi’s’ ideas at the time, such as the fit and stitching that makes it as unlikely as possible for threads to break.”

selvedge jeans
vintage
Japanese denim

You can also check out the newest Fall/Winter 2025 collection in the video below:

The post JELADO – “Last Resort Denim” first appeared on Denimology.

DENIM and PATCHES sourced this post originally published on this site

Filed Under: Blog

Win a Pair of Weirloom Jeans (For Indigo Invitational Year 5)

August 19, 2025 by DENIMandPATCHES

Join This Giveaway to Win a Pair of ‘Second Edition’ WL-001 Jeans to Wear for a Year

I’ve been following Bryan’s denim fading competition ever since he started it six years ago.

We quickly became good friends and started working together, which has resulted in lots of articles here on Denimhunters, as well as my second book, The Rebel’s Wardrobe.

I’ve also joined the competition myself a couple of times. In Year 3, I only made it six months in (my jeans shrank, or I grew), but last year, in Year 4, I finished the full year in the Iron Heart x Ruedi collaboration jeans he and I helped develop behind the scenes.

I was originally planning to wear something else, a pair of my own jeans. I was already working on Weirloom before Year 4 started, but things didn’t line up then. Now the brand’s launched, and the jeans are here!

5 Pairs for Year 5 (… my treat to you)

The Indigo Invitational Year 5 kicks off on September 1, and that date has been a milestone for me in developing the ‘Second Edition’ jeans. Not just making sure they were ready in time, but also deciding to keep them raw and unwashed; the perfect denim for a fading competition.

I’ll be wearing a pair myself this year, and I want some of you to fade along with me. At least five of you, because I’m giving away five pairs of the Weirloom ‘Second Edition’ jeans! But only if you’re going to wear them in the competition.

Here’s how to enter:

Step #1: Go to the WL-001 ‘Second Edition’ product page and sign up in the form there.

Step #2: Head over to this Instagram post and leave a comment to let me know you’ve signed up and that you’re ready to fade.

That’s it. The giveaway runs until Friday, August 22nd, and winners will be contacted directly on Instagram.

If you’ve been thinking about joining the Indigo Invitational, this might be your chance to do it in a fresh pair of ‘Second Edition’ jeans.

ENTER THE GIVEAWAY HERE

When you enter the giveaway, you’ll be subscribed to the Weirloom Weekly and the Denimhunters newsletter. Winners will be contacted via Instagram.


Not Sure a Denim Competition Is For You?

Don’t worry about it. Wearing a pair of jeans in a fading competition might sound a little intimidating, but it’s really super easy.

You just wear your (Weirloom) jeans however you want, starting on Sep 1, and then submit a few photos of the progress around the first of every month.

After the full year of wear, the jeans will have transformed into something completely different. They’ll be truly yours. They might even have become a wearable heirloom—but only your Weirloom jeans will be real “wearlooms” 😉 

You don’t have to wear your jeans every day, and you can wash them. There are some very serious denim faders, though, who’ll wear their jeans every single day for the full year, and they’ll wear them hard! Some even won’t wash them.

If you want a shot at the podium and all the unbelievable prizes, you’ll have to wear your jeans long and hard too. But with the Candiani denim in the WL-001 jeans, it’s almost like cheating, because this is a fast fader.

GO ENTER THAT GIVEAWAY ALREADY

The post Win a Pair of Weirloom Jeans (For Indigo Invitational Year 5) appeared first on Denimhunters.

DENIM and PATCHES sourced this post originally published on this site

Filed Under: Blog

Barrel-Leg Jeans Are Trending This Fall

August 19, 2025 by DENIMandPATCHES

trending

More than a year ago we’ve looked closer into a denim trend which back then was on the rise. The barrel-leg jeans. And we have to say this trend really caught on.

In almost all previews and fashion shows we have seen one or another version of the barrel jeans. Definitely a trend which is going to continue into the coming seasons as well. And FYI – many brands also call them horseshoe jeans.

jeans

Barrel-leg jeans are a fusion of structure and comfort. Their unique curve – from a fitted waist to a flared mid-section and tapering at the ankle – brings a sculptural edge that feels both daring and elegantly wearable.

One of the reasons about the increasing popularity of barrel-leg jeans is that they are flattering on all body types: High-waisted structure balances wider thighs and tapered ankles.

Bottom Line: Barrel-leg jeans are one of Fall 2025’s strongest denim statements. Whether you’re channeling streetwear cool or understated elegance, they’re a wardrobe must-have this season.

See below the six favorite barrel jeans chosen by our team:

barrel-leg jeans

Citizens of Humanity Flight Barrel Leg Jeans ($358)

denim

We The Free Good Luck Mid-Rise Barrel Jeans ($98) – available in eleven different colors

plus size

ASOS ARRANGE Curve Sydney Suede High Rise Barrel Pants ($309) – also available in various denim washes ($85)

GAP Mid Rise UltraSoft Easy Horseshoe Jeans ($89) – available in eleven different colors

LOEWE Anagram Barrel Leg Jeans ($990)

black jeans

AGOLDE Luna High-Rise Tapered Organic Jeans ($260) – available in five different washes

The post Barrel-Leg Jeans Are Trending This Fall first appeared on Denimology.

DENIM and PATCHES sourced this post originally published on this site

Filed Under: Blog

Martine Rose Fall 2025 – “Outsider Fashion”

August 18, 2025 by DENIMandPATCHES

fall 2025

For this Fall/Winter 2025 season, Martine Rose opted to shoot a lookbook rather than staging a show. And true to her ethos, the collection is a refreshing circuit-breaker, defying fashion norms with its cheeky, offbeat energy.

To sum it up, Martine Rose wants you to dress like a wheeler-dealer for this fall. Like… how about a plain brown paper bag instead of your designer baby!

fashion

And there’s more:

Prosthetic elements (such as penile nose attachments) invaded the styling – clashing society’s beauty standards with a surreal, playful distortion. As well as Bum bags integrated into sleeve-heads and external bra-line pockets on shirts.

Yeah, the penile nose prosthetics popped up again from their first airing on the Milanese runway last season. This time they are accompanied by Y-front underwear on women, and various suggestive duo-scenarios.

lookbook

Also worth mentioning are the leather corsets and shoulder-structured parkas as well as reversible trenches with teddy-fur or tiger prints.

Have a look at our gallery below:

denim
jeans
leather

You can shop for Martine Rose at FWRD, SSENSE women/men, and at Farfetch women/men.

The post Martine Rose Fall 2025 – “Outsider Fashion” first appeared on Denimology.

DENIM and PATCHES sourced this post originally published on this site

Filed Under: Blog

A Small Move for Bluezone, a Big Leap for the Denim Industry

August 15, 2025 by DENIMandPATCHES

This article is sponsored by Bluezone, the trade show for denim by Munich Fabric Start. Register to visit here!

Bluezone Is Now Inside Munich Fabric Start—Here’s Why I Think That’s a Really Smart Move

Things are shifting in denim. The market is tough. Budgets are tight. And the old ways of working, they don’t always work anymore.

Bluezone is shifting too. Still denim-focused. Still run by the team behind Munich Fabric Start. But no longer just next door. This September, everything—Bluezone, Keyhouse, The Source, and the full Munich Fabric Start experience—comes together under one roof in Munich’s MOC trade fair location.

That’s a big shift, and not just for the floor plan. Since I first visited the show in 2016, Bluezone has always felt like a distinct space—physically and conceptually. Now, it’s at the centre of something much larger: a unified, one-stop sourcing destination that reflects how interconnected the industry has become.

In this article, I’ll take a closer look at what this change means—and discuss why I think it’s a clever move. Because it’s no longer enough for a trade show to be a place to see fabrics. It has to help visitors discover the right partners and make the right decisions.

And as a little bonus for the designers and buyers who are visiting Bluezone, I’ve also put together a curated selection of denim-focused exhibitors.

If you haven’t registered for the show yet, click here and get it done right away.

Munich’s MOC trade fair location—Bluezone will be in the second hall from the left

New Location Under New Direction

This season, Bluezone moves from its old venue (the Zenith building) into Hall 2 of the MOC, directly alongside KEYHOUSE, connected to the areas ADDITIONALS, FABRICS, THE SOURCE, and the rest of Munich Fabric Start.

It’s still a denim show—but now it’s right at the centre of everything. No more running between buildings, no need for a “denim detour” to stop by Bluezone.

For visitors, this is a big upgrade. It’s easier to cover more ground, discover new things, and get inspired across categories. Exhibitors also benefit from the move. Being under the same roof means more foot traffic—especially from the broader fashion crowd.

Behind this move is a shift in leadership too. Florian Klinder is the new Managing Director of Munich Fabric Start. He’s taken over from his older brother, Sebastian Klinder, who resigned earlier this year.

If you read my newsletter, you’ll already know Florian has a clear vision: make the show more connected, more curated, and more valuable for everyone involved. Not subscribed to my newsletter yet? Sign up here.

Bluezone has always been about making and nurturing connections

Helping You Meet the Right People

The theme for this edition of Bluezone is NEXUS—and it captures something important. Trade shows aren’t just about putting everything in one place anymore. They need to connect the right people, ideas, and opportunities across brands, mills, makers, and innovation hubs.

That’s the goal behind the new Future Fashion Assembly, which promises curated matchmaking between visitors and exhibitors. It’s an approach I’ve been thinking (and writing) about lately: trade shows should actively enable connections—not just host them.

It’s also what I’ve been hearing from potential visitors. They don’t want another hall full of booths—they want help cutting through the noise. If the Future Fashion Assembly delivers, it could be a big step in the right direction.

The international scope is expanding, too. Organisations like GIZ (Germany’s international development agency) and CBI (part of the Dutch Ministry of Foreign Affairs) are bringing sourcing perspectives from Africa and Egypt—helping open up new frontiers.

Spotlighting Regional Denim Legends

Another piece of the new direction is Homegrown Denim Legends project—an initiative that highlights and explores the historical roots of denim brands and personalities from Germany, Austria, and Switzerland.

The project kicks off with exhibitions about and tributes to three standout figures:

  • Loeb Strauss (aka Levi Strauss), the Bavarian-born founder of Levi’s.
  • Erwin O. Licher, the man behind three of Germany’s earliest denim brands.
  • Ruedi Karrer, my close friend and denim collection will showcase rare vintage jeans from German and East German labels, drawn from his extensive collection.

Another initiative is Manifattura Italia—a push to reconnect fashion brands with Italian craftsmanship. By creating direct links, the aim is to spark a new era of local, high-quality production across the full value chain.

Who’s Exhibiting—and Who They’re Right For

New initiatives aside, at its core, Bluezone is still all about its exhibitors—and not just denim mills, but garment makers and full-package suppliers too. 

For visitors, the key question is always the same: who can help us turn our ideas into products? Here’s a quick look at some of the denim-focused exhibitors that stand out to me this season.

Arvind (India)

A heavyweight in global denim, Arvind brings deep capacity and a broad portfolio that spans high-performance and sustainable fabrics. Their range spans classic workwear to tech-driven blends, backed by serious R&D and large-scale capacity.

Orta (Turkey)

A consistently innovative mill, trusted for its sustainable finishings and quality yarns—perfect for brands seeking premium denim with substance.

Tejidos Royo (Spain)

Known for Dry Indigo® low-impact dyeing, Royo offers refined denim options in a broad range of weights and finishes with European-made credibility—great for sustainable-focused collections.

Bossa Denim (Turkey)

A long-time staple in the European denim supply chain, Bossa is texturally creative and fashion-aware. The Turkish mill excels in bold finishes and experimental weaves that catch the eye.

Calik Denim (Turkey)

One of Turkey’s biggest denim exporters, Calik combines large-scale capacity with a steady push toward smarter, lower-impact manufacturing. They offer reliable basics as well as more experimental blends and finishes.

Sharabati Denim (Egypt)

Strong on vertical integration, Sharabati impressed me personally during a visit to their Istanbul office earlier this year—a highly versatile denim and jeans maker.

Naveena Denim (Pakistan)

Naveena consistently shows up with forward-looking concepts, from bio-based finishes to stretch innovations. They’re well-suited for brands balancing performance with low-impact goals.

Berto (Italy)

A heritage mill with deep roots in Italy’s denim tradition, Berto offers high-quality selvedge denims. Their smaller scale means shorter lead times and a closer connection between development and production—ideal for brands looking to create premium, European-made jeans.

Denim Authority (Tunisia)

More than a mill, Denim Authority is a full-package supplier offering design, fabric, and garment production all under one roof. With a strong emphasis on sustainability and quick lead times into Europe, they’re a solid option for brands wanting to streamline development and sourcing.

ISKO (Turkey)

One of the best-known names in denim, ISKO blends massive production capacity with a portfolio of patented innovations. They’re a go-to for performance denim, offering everything from stretch technology to responsible fibres—serving everyone from mass market to premium.

Realteks (Turkey)

Realteks combines reliable production with a broad denim range—from selvedge to stretch and recycled blends. A go-to for brands that value speed, consistency, and scale.

See all exhibitors and where to find them in the brand search section of Bluezone’s website.

What Makes a Show Worth Attending?

The reality is that no one has time for trade shows like they used to. Buyers and product teams aren’t travelling to fill a suitcase with swatches—they want to meet the right suppliers, discover fabrics with potential, and walk away with real next steps.

That’s why Bluezone’s shift into the MOC feels like the right move, if you ask me.

For visitors, Bluezone is now right next to the rest of what you need—shirting, jersey, outerwear, and trims. No more back-and-forth between venues.

For exhibitors, it means exposure to a wider range of visitors—ones who might not have made the “denim detour” to the old venue. That means new leads, new types of clients, and unexpected conversations.

It’s also a timely shift. Denim is showing up in more categories than ever: dresses, shirts, bags, hats—not just jeans. Bluezone’s new location makes it easier for non-denim brands to explore adding it to their range—and to do it well. The move to Hall 2 isn’t just convenient, it’s relevant.

Because the real value of a show lies in how well it helps visitors navigate complexity and make better decisions. That’s what I’ll be looking for when I walk the halls—talking to exhibitors and the visitors between them.

Cheers! See you at Bluezone?

Ready to See the Big Move for Yourself?

If this article convinced you that Bluezone’s new setup is worth experiencing in person—and you haven’t registered yet—do it now!

It’s your chance to explore the full show under one roof, meet the right people, and find what you need next. I’ll be there, and if you see me, say hi (or cheers if I’m holding a drink).

REGISTER FOR BLUEZONE HERE

Registration is free, but for industry professionals only.

The post A Small Move for Bluezone, a Big Leap for the Denim Industry appeared first on Denimhunters.

DENIM and PATCHES sourced this post originally published on this site

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