We don’t want to brag — but fact is, we have so definitely been predicting the come-back of low-rise jeans! Remember our Diesel feature (read here) back in March 2025, among many other trend reports.

So now that low-rise jeans are officially back on the fashion radar this summer, are we allowed to brag?!

What we love about low-rise jeans is their blending of nostalgic Y2K vibes with contemporary, more wearable tailoring and styling. Meaning that as part of the indie sleaze and brat aesthetic revival, these jeans reflect Gen Z’s throwback fashion embrace with modern execution.

Low-rise jeans nowadays come in many different versions. The most popular being the low-rise baggy or wide-leg style. Think about relaxed hip-rise fits, and not body-hugging.

Scroll down to find our team’s favorite picks available to shop for right now.

Madewell Low-Slung Baggy Jeans ($99) – available in 10 different washes and colors

Diesel Flare Jeans ($250)

Joe’s The LOU LOU Low-Rise Wide-Leg Jeans ($198)

Garage Low-Rise Baggy Jeans ($74)

Pacsun Jade Low-Rise Bootcut Jeans ($58.54)

AG AG-ed Low-Rise Wide Leg Jeans ($186)

AGOLDE Low-Rise Baggy Jeans ($228) – available in 16 different washes and colors

Edikted Low-Rise Wide-Leg Jeans ($88)

The post Low-Rise Jeans Are Definitely “High Rising”‼️ first appeared on Denimology.

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ONI Denim takes its name from “ONI” (Devil).

The origin of the name ONI traces back to the brand’s first business visit to retailers in Tokyo. The distinctive texture of the original ONI jeans left a strong impression on the retailers, likened to the rugged face of a devil (“oni” being the Japanese word for devil). Inspired by this story, the name ONI was born. 

Masao Oishi, a key figure in Japanese denim gained prominence at Levi’s Japan, He played an important role in the creation of the first Japanese jeans brands in the 60’s – Canton Jeans.

Despite zero advertising and public relations campaign, ONI Denim has emerged as one of the most coveted jeans brands from Japan.

As mentioned above, Masao Oishi carries over 60 years of experience in the Japanese jeans industry. Initially as one of the first employees at Levi’s Japan, he later then contributed to the establishment of several pioneering Japanese jeans brands. His extensive experience has culminated in the unique craftsmanship at ONI.  

Oishi believes the quality of the products will speak for themselves. The secretive nature of ONI Denim reflects a craftsman’s focus on his artwork rather than on publicity. Wearing ONI jeans offers an exceptional journey; the more they are worn, the more expression of the devil denim comes to life.

If you’re a raw denim, selvedge jeans kind of denimhead, then ONI Denim is definitely a brand for you to check out.

Below you can find some of the brand’s key characteristics:

• Ultra-Slubby and Textured: Oni denim is renowned for its noticeable irregularities and texture, setting it apart from other brands.
• Low-Tension Weave: The use of low-tension looms creates a looser weave, contributing to the fabric’s unique feel and character.
• Secret Denim: This signature fabric is celebrated for its specific blend of earthy beiges, greens, and blues, which fades into stunning washed-out tones.
• Limited Production & Craftmanship: Oni Denim’s fabrics are challenging to produce, even for experienced craftsmen, limiting their availability and making each pair a unique piece of craftsmanship.
• Innovations: Despite its traditional approach to denim production, Oni also offers innovative fabrics like stretch denim, green cast denim, and the lightweight “Kiraku” denim.

You can shop for ONI Denim at Blue in Green Denver and at Blue Owl.

The post Introducing: ONI Denim Made In Japan first appeared on Denimology.

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The 7th edition of Denimsandjeans Vietnam, held on June 25–26, 2025, in Ho Chi Minh City, concluded on a successful note. With this year’s theme, “Future Fit,” the exhibition focused on the evolving landscape of denim where technology, sustainability, and design converge to shape the future of the industry.

Over two days, the event brought together more than 200 companies and over 850 industry professionals, including leading manufacturers, retailers, sourcing heads, and designers from Vietnam and neighboring regions. The curated, business-focused environment encouraged productive discussions, new business connections, and insight-driven exchanges.

The exhibition floor featured participation from prominent global and regional names such as, VF Corporation, Target, Walmart, Gap, PVH, Li & Fung, Mavi Jeans, Newtimes Group, Canifa, Yody, Blue Exchange, The Blues, PPJ Group, Crystal Group, Asmara, Dong Minh, Saitex, Saigon 3, SMT Fashions, T&T Group, Solto Industries, Vinatex, and others. Their presence highlighted the growing significance of the Vietnam market in the global denim value chain.

Trend Area

This edition introduced an expanded Trend Area, curated around the core theme “Future Fit.” It was divided into five key categories: Smart Denim & Tech-Enhanced Fits , Sustainable & Circular Denim , Future Heritage & Craftsmanship , Functional & Hybrid Denim , Digital & Customization Hub.

Each section offered insights into new developments in denim construction, finishing, material science, and responsible manufacturing. Attendees had the opportunity to explore product innovations and forward-thinking design concepts aligned with upcoming market demands.

Denim Bazaar

The Denim Bazaar returned with a spotlight on boutique and artisanal denim makers. Designed as a B2B zone, it attracted attention from niche brands, sourcing professionals, and designers looking to discover unique, small-scale indigo creations and authentic craftsmanship. The area showcased diverse, limited-run products from local and regional artisans.

The Denim Bazaar also featured a Lucky Draw exclusively for visitors, offering them the chance to win coupons redeemable for select items showcased by boutique denim brands. All attendees received a Lucky Coupon upon entry, adding an element of excitement and engagement to the B2B experience.

Seminars

Attendees had the opportunity to engage with industry thought leaders through a series of expert-led forums and seminars, focusing on key denim-related themes.

Adapting To Tomorrow : Denim Strategies For Success In 2026 And Beyond

Panel discussion featuring Gigi Lau (APAC Market), JB Legouge (LF Sourcing), Janet Lui (Crystal Intl. Group), moderated by David Tring (Hong Kong Design Institute).

Power Shift : How Digital Transformation & AI Are Reshaping The Brand – Vendor Relationship

A talk delivered by Greg Merrill, former Digital Head at Nike.

Reimagining Denim : Innovations Driving Sustainability

Presented by David Tring, focusing on sustainable denim innovations.

Smart Wash: Innovations & Sustainability In Denim Finishing

Panel with Saravanan Periyasami (TP Group), Shivam Saraf (Apna Organics), Arnab Chanda (PPJ Group), moderated by Simon Kj, expert in textile automation.

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Stay Tuned

Stay tuned for the upcoming Denimsandjeans Egypt, scheduled for 19–20 January 2026 in Cairo. This marks a significant addition to their global line‑up, expanding the reach of their B2B denim platform into North Africa.

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Everything You Need to Know Before Buying Your First Pair of SOSO Jeans

Let me take a wild guess: At some point, you’ve had SOSO’s website open in a tab. Maybe for weeks, maybe longer. You’ve scrolled, browsed, clicked through all the custom options. Maybe even measured an old pair of jeans (like a pro). And still—you haven’t hit that button.

I get it. SOSO isn’t grab-and-go denim. It’s made-to-order, designed by you, and built for you. That kind of choice can feel like pressure. What if the size is off? What if it takes too long? What if it’s not what you hoped for?

If any of that sounds even remotely familiar, if you’ve been circling SOSO but haven’t made the leap, if you know you want it but you want to get it right the first time, well, then this guide is for you.

I’ve worked closely with the brand. I’ve seen what they offer, how they deliver, and how their customers wear the results. So here’s how to order a pair of SOSOs—without second-guessing a thing.

Meet SOSO

SOSO is a Swedish denim brand with a refreshingly simple pitch: you choose the fabric, fit, and features—you get the jeans you actually want.

It’s not off-the-rack. It’s not one-size-fits-all. And it’s definitely not fast fashion. SOSO is intentionally slow. Every pair is made-to-order, built from the denim up based on your specs.

You can go lightweight or heavy as hell, tweak the rise or leg opening, or pick your favourite thread colour.

Founded by Johan Blom, Jannis Hoff, and later joined by Fredrik Milton, the SOSO team has deep roots in Asia—Jannis has lived in Bangkok for nearly 15 years, with Johan spending seven years there himself.

That local presence gives them direct access to quality production and specialist fabrics, and all SOSO garments are made in their own factory in Thailand, which gives them full control over quality, working conditions, and production timelines.

While the brand made its name with a dizzying range of customisation options, it has recently pared things back—reducing the number of variables by over 55%. It’s still deeply personal, but now far less overwhelming for first-time buyers.

At its heart, SOSO isn’t just about denim—it’s about embracing a slower, more intentional way of dressing. They see raw denim as a way of life. That freedom and focus is why SOSO has built such a loyal following—and why it can be a bit daunting the first time you order.

Let’s walk through it.

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Step #1

Find Your Favourite Fabric

With SOSO, the first—and most important—choice you’ll make is the fabric.

That’s because your jeans don’t start from a shelf. They start from a roll of denim. You pick it. They cut and sew it. And that fabric defines how your jeans will wear, fade, feel, and fit from day one.

SOSO sources selvedge denims from specialist mills across Asia. All proprietary cotton is Australian farmed. Some are soft and smooth. Others are hairy, stiff, and rope-dyed for dramatic fades. The variety is the point. You’re not locked into one kind of denimhead experience.

Want something light and breathable? Easy. Want a fade monster you have to earn? They’ve got that too.

Weight is the most obvious difference, but not the only one. Texture, yarn twist, dye saturation, and starch levels all affect how a fabric behaves. And SOSO lists those details clearly—because they want you to choose with intention.

That can feel like a lot if it’s your first time. So here’s a simple way to narrow it down.

The All-Rounder: Ghost Indigo (or Black)

This is the one nearly everyone can agree on: the 20 oz. Ghost Indigo—or Black if you prefer stealth over contrast.

It’s SOSO’s best all-rounder. It’s heavy enough to feel serious without being punishing, it fades beautifully, and it’s one of their most proven offerings.

Lightweight and Breezy

If you’re leaning toward something a little easier to break in, their lighter options in the 13 to 15 oz. range are more breathable, softer from the start, and well-suited for warmer climates or denim beginners.

For the Heavyweights

If you’re here for the super heavy stuff? SOSO has several denims in the 21+ oz. category, most noticeably their 33 oz. monster. These are serious jeans—stiff, dense, and built for fade freaks. Just know what you’re getting into: the break-in is real, and sizing up for layering might be wise.

Can’t Decide? Split the Difference

Still undecided? Land somewhere in the middle. A mid-heavyweight around 18 to 20 oz. gives you everything raw denim promises, without the bruises.

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Step #2

Get the Right Fit

SOSO’ jeans follow a shared design, but you choose the cut and then you can fine-tune it.

Waist, thigh, rise, inseam—you can get as specific as you like. That’s a gift. But it also means you need to measure properly.

SOSO offers five base fits:

• Slim – A close fit from waist through thigh, for a lean, modern silhouette.
• Tapered – Room up top, narrow at the hem. Great if you want ease without bagginess.
• Straight – Classic proportions, consistent width through the leg.
• Relaxed – More generous all around. Good for bigger builds or casual comfort.
• Loose – The widest cut. Workwear-style freedom with no cling.

Once you’ve picked your base fit, you’re not locked into fixed dimensions. SOSO lets you tweak nearly every key measurement—waist, thigh, rise (front and back), knee, hem width, inseam—down to the half centimetre if you want.

Want a longer rise but a narrower leg? Done. Prefer more thigh room but still want a sharp taper? Easy. You can build something that fits your body—not some averaged-out standard.

And if you’re not quite sure where to begin, the best starting point is still your favourite pair of jeans. Measure them flat, compare the numbers, and adjust where needed. SOSO’s measuring guide makes it easy—even if you’ve never done it before.

Here’s how to make sure you don’t screw it up:

• Start with something you already own. Find a pair of jeans you like the fit of. Lay them flat. Measure key points like waist, thigh, rise, and leg opening. Then match those to SOSO’s sizing charts.
• Measure, don’t guess. Don’t just go with your usual size tag. Different brands use different patterns. And because SOSO is made-to-order, you don’t have the luxury of trying on three pairs and sending two back.
• Follow their measuring guide. SOSO has photos and a video showing how to measure properly. It takes five minutes and saves you years of regret.
• Plan for your fabric. Heavier denim and lined garments can feel tighter. If you’re buying heavyweight or planning to layer, size up slightly.

SOSO doesn’t offer traditional returns—because their garments are fully made-to-order, they’re legally not required to. But they go out of their way to make things right. 

If you measure carefully and still don’t get the fit you expected, they’ll work with you to exchange or remake your jeans. 

It’s why they’ve invested so much into customer guidance. They want you to get it right, but they’ll back you up if you don’t.

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Step #3

Customise the Details

Every pair of SOSO jeans starts with a solid foundation: high-quality selvedge denim, durable stitching, reinforced stress points, and a clean, timeless silhouette. That’s standard.

But what really makes SOSO stand out is the range of custom features you can add.

From the obvious to the esoteric, here’s what’s on the table:

• Thread Colour: Choose from classic copper or black, or make it yours with a custom colour. It won’t change the fit—but it completely changes the vibe.
• Fly Style: Zip or button fly? You decide.
• Hardware: Metal, black, brass, or antique copper—SOSO’s heavy-duty YKK options let you match the tone of your jeans.
• Pockets: Add carpenter or utility pockets for function, or line the back pockets for extra comfort and durability.
• Selvedge ID: Show off the edge with selvedge inside the fly, coin pocket, or front belt loop.
• Back Pocket Details: Hidden arcuates, custom arcuates, contrast bartacks—they’re all up for grabs.
• Patch Material: Leather patches come in tanned, black, and even limited edition designs.

Each one of these lets you shape the look and feel of your jeans, whether you want them stealthy, loud, heritage, or totally personal.

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Step #4

Understand the Wait

Made-to-order means exactly that: your garment doesn’t exist until you order it. That’s part of what makes SOSO special—but also why you need to pack a little patience.

On average, SOSO has a queue of about 200 customers every month. Every garment is cut, sewn, and finished with care, and when you consider that scale, it’s not unreasonable that:

• Standard lead time is 4–8 weeks. They’re aiming to reduce this, but for now, that’s the reality. Production takes time, especially when you’re working with heavy denim and complex custom specs.
• It’s worth the wait. You’re not just buying a product—you’re commissioning a piece. Every pair is built to your measurements with your chosen fabric, fit, and detailing.

And that’s why it takes time. Because they’re not just sewing together jeans—they’re building yours.

Who SOSO Is (and Isn’t) For

SOSO isn’t for everyone—and that’s exactly the point. If you’re the kind of person who knows what they like (or at least enjoys figuring it out), and you’ve got the patience to wait a few weeks for something better than off-the-rack, you’re in the right place. 

This brand is built for people who care about the details: selvedge denim, heavyweight fabrics, lined pockets, custom stitching, and jeans that don’t just fit—they fit you.

On the other hand, if your ideal pair of jeans is one you can try on today and wear tomorrow—and you expect to send back whatever doesn’t click—SOSO might not be your match. There’s no shame in that. But this isn’t plug-and-play denim. It’s choose-your-own-adventure, and that’s what makes it worth the wait.

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FAQs

Quick Answers for First-Time Buyers

Q: How do I determine my size? 

A: Use a similar garment that fits you well. Lay it flat, measure key points, and compare with SOSO’s size guide. Their video walkthrough makes it easy.

Q: What if it doesn’t fit?

A: There are no traditional returns, but SOSO stands behind their product. If you’ve followed the measuring steps and still get a poor fit, they’ll work with you to exchange it.

Q: How long does it take? 

A: Most orders take 4–8 weeks to make and ship. That timeline reflects the care and complexity involved in made-to-order production.

Q: Do they carry larger sizes? 

A: Yes—jeans up to W46 and tops up to 5XL. Need bigger? They can usually accommodate that, too.

Q: Which fabric should I start with?

A: The 20 oz. Ghost Indigo (or Black) is a safe, proven choice. It breaks in well, fades beautifully, and works across seasons.

Still Unsure? Here’s What to Do Next

You’re close—probably closer than you think. If you’ve made it this far, it means SOSO has already caught your interest. You’re not just browsing. You’re considering. And that matters.

So what now?

Trust your instincts. Choose a proven fabric like the 20 oz. Ghost Indigo if you want a safe, solid place to start. Take the time to measure properly—it’s not hard, and SOSO’s visual guide makes it easy.

You’ve done the research. You know the risks. And reap the rewards.

The post Thinking About Getting a Pair of SOSOs? Read This First appeared first on Denimhunters.

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A comprehensive 130 page study on Bangladesh’s denim fabric imports : 2023 vs 2024

First of its kind study on Bangladesh’s imports of denim fabric and a comparison between 2023 and 2024 . Understand the entire gamut of Bangladesh’s denim industry in terms of major buyers and suppliers , product types, trends and growth. Understand how major brands and retailers are sourcing their denim in Bangladesh and how they have changed in this period. Also deep insights into the performance of large groups in Bangladesh and how they cater to their customers.

Want to get the report ?

For more queries , please contact us at mktg3@denimsandjeans.com

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Indigo Invitational sponsors can opt for coverage here on Denimhunters. To learn more about our advertising opportunities, contact Thomas here.

Streamlined and Heritage-Focused, The Flat Head Is Back in a Big Way

Once one of the most revered names in Japanese denim, The Flat Head all but vanished from the scene after filing for bankruptcy in 2019. 

Known for their meticulous construction, sharp vertical fades, and unmistakable vintage styling, the brand had become a benchmark for raw denim obsessives around the world.

Now they’re back—streamlined, refocused, and still committed to the obsessive detail that earned them cult status.

I recently caught up with the new leadership in Japan to hear the story behind the relaunch. But first, let me tell you how I first encountered The Flat Head—on a rain-soaked honeymoon in Tokyo.

TL;DR – Quick Summary

• This is a behind-the-scenes look at The Flat Head’s quiet relaunch after years of near-silence.
• We spoke with the brand’s new leadership in Japan to understand what’s changed—and what hasn’t.
• The article explores how TFH has streamlined its operations and refocused on core strengths like denim, loopwheeled knits, and leather.

Honeymoon to Heartbreak

In 2018, I honeymooned in Japan. I was in the market for a new pair of selvedge, but my blushing bride didn’t want to spend too much of our honeymoon denim shopping.

We compromised by cramming all of it into one day, starting with Kapital in Ebisu and ending the day, drenched in rain, at the Flat Head boutique in Harajuku. 

The name was a familiar one to me. I knew that The Flat Head jeans were prized for their nearly unbeatable fades. I wasn’t deeply immersed in fade culture yet, but the faded examples I had seen online, with their trademark sharp contrasts and vertical texture, had captured my attention.

The Tokyo boutique was my first up-close-and-personal look at The Flat Head jeans, but, drenched to the bone, I was hardly in the mood to play the patient shopper. I left the shop with a gorgeous vest but no jeans (something I still regret).

A few days later, I visited the brand’s webshop. I couldn’t believe what I was seeing.

The boutique had featured only a few dozen items, but The Flat Head’s output could’ve filled a warehouse. The webshop sprawled across pages and pages of thumbnail-sized listings.

Not long after this, news started to break that The Flat Head had run into financial difficulties.

They had flown too high and too close to the sun, expanding their lines beyond their breaking point and pushing the business into unprofitable avenues, including, among other things, a restaurant.

The Flat Head filed for bankruptcy in August of 2019. During the bankruptcy process that followed, production slowed down to a crawl.

Flat Head pieces almost entirely disappeared from shelves, especially outside of Japan.

The brand never shut things down entirely, but, for those watching from outside of Japan, it looked as though the sun had set on a legendary Japanese brand. 

Dawn of The New Flat Head

With questions swirling about what had happened to The Flat Head and whether it had a future, Sirius Partners stepped in.

The Japanese private equity firm took over the apparel side of the business. Founder Masayoshi Kobayashi stepped aside, but the rest of the Flat Head team remained in place.

By keeping the original Flat Head team in their roles, the investors were making it clear that they recognized the importance, not just of the brand’s employees, but of Kobayashi-san’s vision—something shared by those who worked under him.  

There was no hard reset, no dramatic change in direction—just a streamlining and a renewed focus on the rugged wearables that made The Flat Head a household name in the selvedge scene.

With the financials sorted, the wheels of production started turning more quickly. Thanks to bottlenecks caused by the COVID-19 slowdown, it took a bit of time to get things back up to speed, but The Flat Head’s pairs are now, once again, stocked and re-stocked at the brand’s retailers. 

The brand’s legendary leather jackets, many of them still adhering to Kobayashi’s designs, also made a triumphant return to shelves—very good news for those who have been waiting for their chance to get into one of Japan’s best leather jackets. 

Stockburg, Flat Head’s in-house leather shop, which used to be responsible for the brand’s leather wallets and accessories, has now taken over production of Flat Head leather jackets. These used to be outsourced to partner factories, but they are now handled in-house. 

Representatives for the brand say that this allows The Flat Head to better express its creative vision, shortening the distance between inspiration and execution. It also gives them more control over delivery timelines.

The first jackets that rolled off the Stockburg line made a very strong impression. It was immediately clear that The Flat Head hadn’t lost a step. If anything, they’d improved. Orders from retailers poured in. 

Wait times for stockists are now in excess of a year, so, if you see a Flat Head jacket hanging in your local stockist, it might not be there for long. Strike while the iron is hot.  

A True-Blue Trail Blazer: Pioneer Denim

Back in 1996, when Flat Head was founded, Japan was in the midst of a selvedge explosion. Japanese consumers and brands were still largely focused on the past (particularly the 501), but innovators were beginning to experiment with heavier and more-textured denims.

Flat Head was on the vanguard of this movement. They used twentieth-century machinery to form a bridge into the twenty-first century, respecting denim’s heritage while nudging it in new directions.

Their Pioneer Denim, first introduced in 2001, came at the tail-end of a years-long iterative process. Kobayashi, inspired by a mid-century pair of jeans that had caught his eye when he was a vintage dealer, worked with a mill in Kojima to create a slubby denim with a pronounced vertical texture. 

Pioneer Denim was an instant classic—one of the denims that fuelled the explosive rise of the selvedge scene and fade culture in North America, Europe, and Southeast Asia. Now, more than two decades later, it has a long track record of impressive fades.

It’s easy to see why, for years, Pioneer Denim was heralded as the absolute best starting point for a serious fade project. It’s less easy to see why we don’t see more of it in the competitive fade circuit. 

The denim has not changed in more than two decades. It’s as good as it ever was, fading quickly and beautifully. For those looking for a competition pair, you can’t do much better than this.   

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Other Denims to Consider

Since The Flat Head’s reemergence, they’ve slowly introduced other denims into the mix.

Their left-hand twill (a version of the Zimbabwe-cotton selvedge formerly used for their now-shelved sub-label Real Japan Blues) has been a welcome addition to the line-up, particularly for those looking for a soft and easy-going selvedge that still fades beautifully.

They’ve also introduced a new 18 oz. selvedge that may, in time, challenge Pioneer Denim for the flagship position.

Without losing an ounce of Flat Head’s trademark vertical texture, this crisp and beefy heavyweight selvedge is primed for serious high-contrast fades.

If you prefer lightweight denims, they’ve got that covered as well with a 12 oz. selvedge that’s designed to mimic WWII-era selvedge.

With its donut top button, u-shaped back pockets, and plaid pocket bags, it’s a pair that stands out from the rest of the line-up. 

The Flat Head is sold at Redcast Heritage (ES) and Franklin & Poe (US)

The Fits: Something Old or Something New

Flat Head may be dramatically more streamlined than they were in 2018, but they haven’t thrown the baby out with the bathwater.

Well-worn and much-loved icons like the slim-tapered 3002, the regular-straight 3005, and the regular-tapered 3009 (all made from Pioneer Denim) are back and as good as ever. 

Given my choice of pairs to review for this article, I went with one of their newer cuts, the 3004. They introduced the cut in 2021, but it references other popular high-rise tapered fits that had rolled through The Flat Head lines for decades. 

All three fits are available at Franklin & Poe.

A generously cut high-rise straight-tapered fit, it will leave guys with slim legs (myself included) plenty of room. For those with larger or more muscular thighs, it should fit more like a slim straight.  

Thanks to its high rise (something I’ve learned to appreciate more as I’ve grown older), the fit is highly adaptable. If you like to alternate between tucked-in and untucked looks, the 3004 or the 18 oz. 8004 should definitely be on your radar.

If you’ve struggled at all with the short bodies on most Japanese tees (like the Warehouse one pictured below), the higher rise will be a game changer. It works with even my shortest tees, allowing me to pull those underused basics out of the bottom of the drawer and into heavy rotation.

The taper isn’t dramatic, but, especially for gents with larger feet, it won’t work particularly well with slip-on boots. Of all the footwear in my collection, I found the fit worked well with all my lace-up boots and, best of all, my penny loafers.

The denim is extremely hairy (something I always appreciate), and it is slightly rough to the touch. The roughness and crispness of the denim disappear quickly, though, and the trademark rainfall pattern (there if you look for it when the denim is new) begins to rise to the surface.

The details you look for in a great pair are all there. There’s peekaboo selvedge at the fifth pocket, chain-stitching at the hems and on the yoke, a goat leather patch, cotton threads, substantially raised loops, branded iron buttons that will rust as the pair ages, and concealed rivets on the back pockets. 

The arcuates are bold, especially when executed with contrasting lemon-coloured thread.

I asked them about the arcs, and they told me that they are meant to look like ribbons. Each pair is intended as a gift from the brand to its customers, and, for as long as it lasts, the ribbons tie the two of them together.

Overall, I’m deeply impressed with the pair and the brand that produced it.

Under Kobayashi’s leadership, The Flat Head built themselves a stellar reputation among selvedge and leather enthusiasts. Now, under new management, they’ve taken flight once again. 

Back to Basics

What seems most promising about The Flat Head’s return is that they’re not trying to whizz-bang it. They’ve simplified things, distilling the brand down to its essence.

They’re adding new pieces to the line-up very slowly, and popular sub-labels like Real Japan Blues have been shelved for the time being while they focus on strengthening the brand’s core.

The streamlined line-up is better aligned with the values they espouse. They say that their products are not meant to be collected or stacked up on groaning shelves. They’re meant to be worn hundreds or even thousands of times. 

This buy-less, wear-more philosophy only makes sense if the brand is making each piece slowly and passionately, and if they’re not flooding the zone with mountains of product. They seem to have rediscovered this and brought it back to the core of what they’re doing. 

Flat Head is back to doing the kinds of things that made them a household name in the selvedge scene. They’re living their values, which means they’re at their best—and this brand at its best is a force to be reckoned with. 

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