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KUON Denim – Eternity & Permanence

October 14, 2025 by DENIMandPATCHES

selvedge jeans

KUON in Japanese stands for eternity, permanence, and also for the remote past or future. As you can see, the brand clearly plays with history, time, and tradition through its garments.

KUON works with vintage fabrics and used clothing gathered around the world. And then the transform them into fashionable and contemporary pieces.

Besides vintage fabrics, many of their denim fabrics are made in Okayama, well known for artisan mill in Japan.

denim

While appreciating the history and culture of vintage clothes and textiles, KUON always seeks for permanence, simplicity, and authenticity – to not be bound by traditional views. Combining stylish” and socially good, Kuon is all about sustainability.

“New things become old, but beautiful things remain beautiful.”

KUON employs traditional Japanese techniques like “Boro”, using patchwork and layering of used fabrics. And also “Sakiori”, which is weaving strips of used fabrics. And last, but not least, for dyeing the garments, the brand employs sustainable indigo dye, rope-dyeing “Aizome”.

Aizome is the traditional Japanese indigo dyeing technique, one of Japan’s most revered and time-honored textile arts. The word literally means “indigo dye.” It’s not just about color; it’s deeply tied to craftsmanship, nature, and Japanese cultural identity.

sustainable

You can shop for KUON clothing in their flagship store, as well as online and in many other stores all over the world.

The post KUON Denim – Eternity & Permanence first appeared on Denimology.

DENIM and PATCHES sourced this post originally published on this site

Filed Under: Blog

Yaku – Spring 2026 Denim Looks

October 13, 2025 by DENIMandPATCHES

jeans

Ok, so we’re not even in full fall mode – yet- but still! There is nothing more exciting than finding our about new denim styles to come. New brands – or maybe brands which are not so new but haven’t been featured here @Denimology yet… Like Yaku.

designer

One of the brands that called our attention during their spring review is Yaku. Founded in 2023 by Yaku Stapleton, the brand’s concept is about blending avant-garde ready-to-wear with Afrofuturism.

Yaku Stapleton is a London‐based designer, originally from St Albans, with Jamaican and Vincentian heritage.

So what exactly is Afrofuturism? It’s a mix of fantasy, technology, the future, and liberation. Meaning the brand combines futuristic and sculptural with natural, historical, and fantasy elements. Elongated proportions, warrior- or creature-inspired shapes, use of unusual textures, modularity, props, theatrical presentations.

camouflage

Stapleton uses deadstock fabrics like recycled or leftover materials which are manipulated, dyed, and/or distressed in-house. Also featured are upcycled techwear elements.

Below you can check out some pretty cool images from the Yaku Spring 2026 collection, titled “His debut series, “The ImPossible Family Reunion in RPG Space,” featuring garments inspired by fantasy versions of his own family members, each with their own unique story and “superpowers”. Like it’s about Stapleton’s family as fantasy characters in a parallel, RPG-style world. Each piece is developed as part of a look representing a character in this limitless world.

spring 2026
denim brands
runway

You can shop for Yaku at SSENSE and at Dover Street Market.

The post Yaku – Spring 2026 Denim Looks first appeared on Denimology.

DENIM and PATCHES sourced this post originally published on this site

Filed Under: Blog

How to Get the Yellowstone Look: Western Denim Jacket Styling Guide

October 12, 2025 by DENIMandPATCHES

How to Get the Yellowstone Look: Western Denim Jacket Styling Guide

How to Get the Yellowstone Look: Western Denim Jacket Styling Guide If there’s one show that has revived the rugged allure of the American West, it’s Yellowstone. Beyond the gripping storylines and breathtaking Montana landscapes, the series has quietly redefined Western fashion — especially denim. From Beth Dutton’s bold denim…

DENIM and PATCHES sourced this post originally published on this site

Filed Under: Blog

The Best and Toughest Heavyweight Selvedge Jeans

October 8, 2025 by DENIMandPATCHES

We hand-pick all products. When you buy something, we may earn a commission.

Because Weight Matters: Learn What Heavyweight Denim Is All About … and Which Pair to Get?

When I got into denim 20 years ago, selvedge was the hot new thing. Today, it’s heavyweight that defines the scene.

Going heavy with your denim is a rite of passage. Nothing says commitment like selvedge so thick it feels like armour. Moving up in weight is how denimheads prove something—to themselves and to the culture.

Iron Heart, brand profile, Denimhunters, 21 oz., Japanese denim, selvedge denim, raw denim
My first heavyweight jeans, when they were still breaking in

The first time I handled heavyweight denim, I knew this was something different. I didn’t take the plunge myself until a pair of Iron Heart 634S came along years later. Once I did, I understood the appeal.

TL;DR – Quick Summary (of a Very Heavy Guide)

Whether you’re new to heavyweight denim or looking for your next pair, this guide does the heavy lifting for you. I’ll explain what it is, why people chase it, and which brands make the best.

Top Picks: Start with These

Want to cut to the chase? Here are my recommendations:

  • First heavy denim? Iron Heart’s 21 oz. or Samurai’s 19 oz. Kiwami.
  • Want something custom? SOSO’s 20 oz. Ghost Indigo.
  • Looking for the best value? Brave Star’s 21.5 oz. Gauntlet.
  • Ready for serious pain? The Strike Gold 24.8 oz. Extra Hard.

Heavy Denim Explained

Before we get to the best brands that make it, we need to define what heavyweight denim actually is.

The weight of denim is measured in ounces per square yard. By my definition, anything from 16 oz. up counts as heavyweight—but some double that number.

Throughout the 20th century, 13–14 oz. denim was considered heavy (enough). These days, that’s middle-of-the-road at best. I launched my own brand with a 14.25 oz. selvedge denim, and almost immediately, people were asking: “When are you making something heavier?”

Heavyweight The Strike Gold denim in the making (image via Redcast Heritage)

So how do mills produce denim this heavy? Not easily, that’s for sure. Technically speaking, it comes down to yarn count and weave density. Thicker cotton yarns weigh more, and the tighter they’re packed on the loom, the denser and heavier the fabric. 

Samurai’s 21 oz. exemplifies the “big yarn” approach, while Iron Heart’s 21 oz. selvedge is built with a double-twisted weft that packs more cotton without making it unwearably stiff. But weight alone doesn’t tell the full story. Heavy denim can be sanforized (pre-shrunk) or unsanforized, smooth or slubby, clean or hairy.

If you’ve got more question, I’m answering 10 of the most commonly asked ones further below in the guide. But if you’re ready to take the plunge, the next step is choosing where to start.


THE PIONEERS OF HEAVYWEIGHT DENIM

Before heavy selvedge became a badge of honour, these brands defined it. They didn’t just make heavier fabrics—they built the culture around them.

Iron Heart: The Benchmark

If I say “heavy”, you say … “Iron Heart”. Because no other brand is as synonymous with heavyweight denim. Founded by Shinichi Haraki to make jeans tough enough for bikers, Iron Heart has been building its reputation on heavy selvedge since 2002.

The benchmark is the 21 oz. signature selvedge. Thanks to the double-twisted weft yarns and a looser weave, it’s more wearable than the number suggests—stubborn at first, but quick to soften into long-haul comfort and slow, steady fades.

Iron Heart’s 21 oz. 634S jeans, new and faded

Then there’s the 25 oz. XHS (Extra Heavy Selvedge), which has become legendary in its own right. Originally introduced in 2011 for the 25th anniversary of Zurich’s VMC, it pushed the limits of what mills and sewing machines could handle.

I’ve worn both, and each shows a different side of Iron Heart’s philosophy: overengineered jeans that balance punishment with reward. If you want to understand why heavyweight denim became what it is today, this is where you start.

SHOP IRON HEART JEANS HERE

Iron Heart is available at: Division Road (US), Franklin & Poe (US), Brooklyn Clothing (CA), Iron Provisions (US), and of course at Iron Heart International.

Want the full breakdown of Iron Heart’s fits and fabrics? Check out my complete guide to the brand’s jeans here.


Samurai Jeans: The Warriors of Heavy Denim

A true samurai perfects his art through patience and precision. Every motion is deliberate, every stroke earned through repetition. Osaka’s Samurai Jeans embody that same devotion to craft—denim made not for ease, but for mastery.

Founded in 1997 by Toru Nogami, the brand built its name on unsanforized heavyweights that test your will. The 19 oz. Kiwami might have put Samurai on the map, but it’s the 21 oz. selvedge that made the brand legendary—a fabric that defines the brand’s identity and, possibly, the entire heavyweight movement.

The 19 oz. Kiwami selvedge
25 oz. Samurai’s that won Y2 of the Indigo Invitational

All Samurai denim is unsanforized, but you can buy them one-washed and shrunken down. Whatever you get, expect a dry, rigid hand and a vertical texture that slowly yields.

Chris Clark, who’s worn both the 19 oz. and the mid-20s 710 cuts, calls them “sandpaper at first, butter later.” His words sum up the Samurai ethos perfectly: patience, practice, and transformation.

SHOP HEAVY SAMURAI JEANS HERE

You can buy Samurai from these retailers: Franklin & Poe (US), Brooklyn Clothing (CA), Blue in Green (US), and Redcast Heritage (ES).


Naked & Famous: The Denim Experimenters

If Iron Heart are the engineers and Samurai the purists, Naked & Famous are the mad scientists of the denim world.

Founded in Montréal in 2008 by Brandon Svarc, the brand built its reputation on doing what no one else dares—turning Japanese selvedge into a playground for experimentation.

The first Naked & Famous Elephant jeans, faded top by Redditor lizardwatches

Everything is cut, sewn, and finished in Canada, using only Japanese denim. By working closely with the most innovative mills in Okayama, Naked & Famous tries things few others would even consider—from glow-in-the-dark and scratch-and-sniff jeans to coffee-dyed and thermochromic denims that change colour with heat.

An army of self-standing 40 oz. jeans
Everything’s extra thick, including the flasher (Image from Long John)
Equally brilliant and ridiculous, 40 oz. denim is newsworthy, no doubt

The heavyweight Elephant series has become a benchmark in its own right. Each version is a limited-run experiment with new yarns, weaves, and weights—ranging from the early 19 oz. and 22 oz. pairs.

Add to that the infamous 32 oz. (out of production since 2016), and most recently, a 40 oz. denim that’s almost unwearable but undeniably impressive.

SHOP NAKED & FAMOUS JEANS

Naked & Famous is sold at: Blue Beach Denim (TW) and Cultizm (DE)

Heavyweight on a Budget

The Unbranded Brand is Naked & Famous’ stripped-down sibling. Made in Asia from simpler fabrics and without any flashy details, the raw, unwashed authenticity is intact.

The 21 oz. Unbranded jeans retail for $150, making them the ultimate entry point for anyone curious about heavyweight denim.


WESTERN HEAVYWEIGHT SPECIALISTS

These brands bring their own approach to heavyweight denim. Different ideas, same dedication to making great jeans.

SOSO: Heavyweight Your Way

Born in Sweden and built in Thailand, SOSO has made a name for itself by giving denimheads the power to shape their own jeans. Every pair is made to order in the brand’s own factory, where craftsmanship meets experimentation.

Heavy denim has become the brand’s signature. From the smooth, wearable 20 oz. Ghost to the punishing 33 oz. “Breaker of Legs”, SOSO’s lineup shows just how far raw denim can go. Most fabrics come from Japan’s specialist mills, while others are developed in-house—dense, fade-hungry, and made to last.

Longtime SOSO wearer Tobias Östling calls breaking in the heavyweights “a state of mind.” After years in both the 20 oz. and 33 oz. jeans, he says the comfort always comes—slowly, then all at once.

SHOP HEAVY SOSO JEANS HERE

Want the full rundown? Read my complete SOSO buying guide.


Brave Star: The People’s Heavyweight

Not all heavyweight denim has to break the bank. Brave Star proves that American-made jeans can still pack a punch at a price that makes sense.

Founded by Mik Serfontaine in Los Angeles in 2005, the brand rose from the ashes of the 2008 crash with a simple mission: make jeans in its own downtown LA factory and sell them directly to customers—no middlemen, no retail markup.

The 21.5 oz. Gauntlet

That model has only gotten sharper over time. Brave Star now produces in limited, demand-based pre-order runs that often sell out in a few hours. The 21.5 oz. Gauntlet and 25 oz. Sumo IV show what the brand does best: bold, heavyweight jeans that fade fast, soften quickly, and deliver serious value for money.

If you want to experience heavyweight denim the American way—built local, priced fair, and driven by demand—Brave Star is the one to check out.

SHOP BRAVE STAR JEANS HERE

If you’re curious how Brave Star does it—and which pairs stand out most—I’ve broken it all down in my complete Brave Star guide.


KATO: The Stretch Revolution

Heritage meets comfort—that’s the KATO way. Founded in Los Angeles by Nick Noguchi, the brand reimagines heritage style for modern life, proving that selvedge denim doesn’t have to hurt to look good.

Every pair is cut and sewn in KATO’s LA factory under Noguchi’s eye, but the brand’s claim to fame is its 4-Way Stretch Selvedge. Yes, you read that right—stretch in heavyweight raw denim, and both and weft and warp (most stretch denim only has it in the weft). 

Purists once scoffed, but the 17.5 oz. Mammoth Selvedge turned skeptics into believers: dense, durable, and fade-ready, yet flexible from day one. Proof that innovation can coexist with authenticity.

BUY KATO JEANS HERE

Curious how the Mammoth Selvedge performs? Read our review here.


JAPANESE HEAVYWEIGHT SPECIALISTS

If you picture the heavyweight pioneers as the festival headliners—with hits everyone knows the chorus of—then these Japanese specialist brands are the underground acts with cult followings. They’re represent the experimental side of heavyweight denim: sometimes mystic, always uncompromising, and deeply authentic.

Oni Denim: The Secret’s in the Slubs

Founded by Masao Oishi, Oni built its cult following on fabrics that feel alive: wildly irregular, ultra-low-tension, and an unmistakable “hairy” texture. Oishi-san himself, a denim veteran with more than six decades of experience, is the son of the man who helped bring American denim to Japan in the 1960s.

Patrick Gessner Secret Denim Front, Oni Secret Denim 20th Anniversary Moca Weft
Image from Patrick Gessner
The 20 oz. Secret denim, new vs. worn for a year

At the centre of it all is the Secret Denim, a 20 oz. slubby blend of three cotton types, rope-dyed with Oishi-san’s closely guarded indigo recipe. The name isn’t just marketing. Few outside his circle know exactly how it’s made, and even fewer can reproduce it. The result is denim that softens quickly, fades slowly, and reveals deep, misty blues as the ecru weft breaks through.

The man is as much a mystery as the denim itself and seldom speaks publicly about his work—but we got a rare glimpse into his process through Redcast Heritage as proxy in this review. And perhaps that’s the point: every Oni fabric carries a secret, woven into its slub and indigo.

SHOP ONI JEANS HERE

Pure Blue Japan: The Art of Subtle Texture

Ken-ichi Iwaya founded Pure Blue Japan in 1997 with a simple goal: to make denim with soul. Soft-spoken and endlessly kind, Iwaya-san builds jeans much like his personality—humble, meticulous, and quietly confident. His jeans prove that character doesn’t need to shout.

Faizal Ismail destroyed this pair of 18 oz. PBJs in the Indigo Invitational

PBJ’s hallmark is texture, but not for the sake of texture. The brand’s low-tension weaves and irregular yarns create denim that feels organic—hairy, uneven, and deeply tactile—yet somehow refined. It’s rugged craft distilled into elegance, where every imperfection feels intentional.

The heavier denims in the 16–18 oz. range show that balance best: dense but breathable, vivid yet understated. Whether it’s the slubby XX series or the natural-indigo Aizome runs, every fabric carries PBJ’s calm precision.

Shop Pure Blue Japan here

You can buy Pure Blue Japan at: Redcast Heritage (ES), Hinoya (JP), Brooklyn Clothing (CA), Blue in Green (US)


The Strike Gold: The Final Challenge

You don’t start your heavyweight journey with Strike Gold!

This is the ten-meter diving platform of denim—the one that looks fine from the ground until you’re standing up there, toes over the edge, realising there’s no easy way down.

The brand is family-run from Kojima and it’s built on one obsession: tension. Every fabric fights you at first—stiff, unyielding, and dense enough to snap needles in production.

The 24.8 oz. Extra Hard denim is notorious for a reason: punishing at the start, but once it yields, it rewards you with fades that look earned, not given.

Strike Gold’s Extra Hard denim starts extra dark
Bob Hamzik’s 9904 Strike Golds after a year of wear

The 17 oz. version? That’s the three-meter platform—still a serious jump, but one you’ll survive. The denim carries the same DNA—tight weaves, raw texture, and unpredictable fades, just a little less brutal on impact.

I haven’t tried Strike Gold myself yet, but those who have describe it like a leap they’ll never forget: terrifying at first, but pure satisfaction once you come up for air and see the fades.

SHOP THE STRIKE GOLD JEANS HERE

More Great Heavyweight Denims

The brands below don’t live in the heavyweight lane full-time, but they know how to handle it. These are just a few of the (many) other great heavyweight denims out there—worth both the price and the pain.

Benzak’s 18 oz. Heavyweight Selvedge

Woven by Collect in Kojima, this 18 oz. dark indigo selvedge combines deep, fixed indigo tones with a subtly uneven texture.

The low-tension weave adds quiet character without bulk, and the dense construction gives it that crisp, structured feel Benzak does so well.

The Flat Head’s 18 oz. Doshaburi Selvedge

A storm of vertical slub defines The Flat Head’s “Doshaburi” selvedge (that’s Japanese for “torrential downpour”).

Rope-dyed indigo yarns and a dense weave give it a structured hand that softens with wear, revealing striking, rain-like fades with the deep blues.

Indigofera’s Shiroyama 18 oz. Selvedge

The heavyweight selvedge from Indigofera blends American cotton with Japanese precision, producing a dense, uneven fabric with real vintage grit. The heavy weft adds texture and weight, while a rinse brings out its soft, hairy character.

Tellason’s 16.5 oz. Selvedge

Reengineered with Kaihara after Cone Mills’ closure, Tellason’s heavyweight is a dense, dry denim with a crisp hand and dramatic fade potential—showing deep contrasts as it wears in. Available across all core fits, it’s rugged and dependable.

Momotaro: 15.7 oz. Selvedge

Momotaro’s flagship selvedge sits just shy of heavyweight, yet few fabrics carry more pedigree. The weave is crisp but pliable, the fades refined rather than brash—a benchmark middleweight that shows just how far mastery can go without sheer weight.


10 FAQs About Heavyweight Denim, Answered

I’ve covered the big picture—what heavyweight denim is, who makes the best, and why it matters. If you still have questions before taking the plunge, don’t worry, you’re not alone. Here are my answers to the most commonly asked heavy denim questions.

FAQ #1: What exactly is “heavyweight denim”?

Denim weight is measured in ounces per square yard (oz.). Anything above 16 oz. falls into the heavyweight category. 

To give you an idea, most mass-market jeans today are in the 10–12 oz. range. That’s light compared to the fabrics used by selvedge specialists, where 14–15 oz. or more is common.

FAQ #2: Why does the weight of denim matter so much?

Two big reasons: durability and fades. 

Heavier denim is denser and usually lasts longer. I’ve worn 25 oz. jeans for nearly two years before the crotch finally blew out; much longer than it would have with lighter denim.

And then there’s fading. Thicker denim (generally) holds creases better, which translates into higher-contrast fades. The stiffness matters as much as the weight. Some heavy denim is surprisingly soft, while compact midweights can feel like armour and fade just as dramatically.

FAQ #3: Where’s the cutoff point for heavyweight denim?

By my definition, heavyweight starts at 16 oz.—but in practice, some 16 oz. denims don’t feel heavy at all.

If you want that true heavyweight feel, look for 18 oz. and up. Remember, it’s not just about the number—yarn size and weave density also change how a fabric wears (that’s just a bit harder to find information about—but ask for it).

FAQ #4: How long does it take to break in heavyweight jeans?

It depends on the denim, but a few weeks of wear is normal before they start to feel comfortable. Super heavy stuff can feel brutal at first. 

My advice: always give them a soak before wearing (see how here). It sets creases and removes the starch, which softens the fabric without much indigo loss. Once broken in, heavyweight denim can be surprisingly comfortable.

FAQ #5: Do heavyweight jeans fade faster?

Not necessarily. Some heavyweights fade quickly and sharply, others more slowly and subtly. “Normal” weight denim can do both as well. 

Fading speed has more to do with yarn construction and dye penetration than sheer weight. What heavy denim does almost always deliver is more dramatic contrast once the creases start forming.

You can learn more about spinning, dyeing and how denim is made in my Denim Encyclopedia.

FAQ #6: How should you care for heavyweight denim?

Treat it like any raw denim: wear it hard, wash when needed, repair early. Heavy denim is tougher, but it’s still denim.

Soak before first wear, then wash gently when necessary (inside out, hang dry). Don’t ignore repairs—heavy or not, crotches and knees will eventually give out if you do.

FAQ #7: Can you wear heavy denim in summer or hot climates?

Yes, but it’s not for everyone.

Lots of faders in Southeast Asia wear 20+ oz. jeans year-round in heat and humidity. Personally, I prefer lighter weights in hot weather (sometimes I even wear shorts; I know, a shocking image). 

If you do go heavy, consider a looser fit for more airflow. Some fabrics, like Iron Heart’s 21 oz., are surprisingly breathable. Others, like ultra-dense 25 oz., can be suffocating.

FAQ #8: How should you size heavyweight denim?

First, study the size chart, and check if the jeans are pre-shrunk. Unwashed unsanforized denim shrinks up to 10%. Even sanforized heavyweights shrink a bit on the first wash. 

My rule: never size too small. A too-tight fit in 20+ oz. denim is not only uncomfortable—it’ll wear out faster in stress points.

FAQ #9: Does heavyweight denim always last longer?

Generally, yes. But how they fit and what you do in them matter just as much. 

Thicker yarns and denser fabrics resist wear better. But I’ve blown out 25 oz. jeans in just 6 months because they were too tight and unsoaked (I didn’t follow my own advice).

FAQ #10: What are the trade-offs of heavyweight denim?

Comfort and cost. Heavy jeans are harder to wear in, hotter in warm climates, and more expensive to produce.

Not many mills make denim this heavy, and production of selvedge denim is slow. But the payoff is durability (generally speaking), dramatic fades (in general as well), and your satisfaction of passing the heavyweight rite of passage.


Heavyweight Denim Is Earned in Every Ounce

Out of breath? Welcome to the world of heavyweight denim—jeans that demand more stamina than anything you’ve worn before.

But if you’ve made it this far, if you’ve actually read it all and you’re still interested, I think you’re ready to step up into the heavyweight division.

Just remember, you don’t earn comfort or fades overnight; you have to put in the work. The jeans resist, then relent, and finally become yours in a way few things do.

Join 11,000+ Denimheads Who Get My Emails

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Hey, it’s Thomas here, founder of Denimhunters. I send weekly emails with buying tips, denim knowledge, and practical style advice for guys who care about what they wear.

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The post The Best and Toughest Heavyweight Selvedge Jeans appeared first on Denimhunters.

DENIM and PATCHES sourced this post originally published on this site

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Best of the Blue Collar: Two Chambray Shirts Rise to the Top 

October 7, 2025 by DENIMandPATCHES

We hand-pick all products. When you buy something, we may earn a commission.

After Comparing Nearly Every Rugged Chambray Shirt on the Market, Bryan Finally Picked Two 

We’ve already published our definitive Guide to Chambray Shirts. I needed a serious chambray, and, at the time of writing that, I was still on the fence. I’d narrowed it down to ten chambray work shirts, all of them with serious heritage bona fides.

My plan was to go to Berlin and bring one of the shirts on my list home with me. I went, hit the shops, tried on every chambray shirt I could find (six of them from the list and six or seven others). Still, I came home empty-handed.

Just one of the beautiful chambrays I tried on in Berlin

The fabrics and details were all perfect, but my long arms and torso made things difficult. It was the same story with every brand I tried. None of the chambray shirts fit me right.

When I got back home, I went online and looked carefully at some of the chambray shirts I hadn’t been able to find in Berlin. Two of them, one from Big John and the other from Heimat, looked like a perfect fit.

Rather than weighing their respective merits, I ordered both of them. I’m glad I did. Here’s a look at the two chambray shirts that rose to the top. 


Heimat Arbeitshemd Trail Blue Chambray (4.5 oz.)

The trip to Berlin wasn’t a total bust. Over drinks in a beer garden, Matt Wilson (aka Cee Are Dee) raved about his Heimat Arbeitshemd Chambray, saying it had very quickly become his favourite button-up shirt.

We’ve recommended the shirt before, but Berlin was my first opportunity to handle one in person. The brilliant, sky-blue cotton, flecked with whisps of white, makes Heimat’s take on the classic work shirt an immediate stand-out in the category (largely dominated by darker blues).

The biggest difference-maker, though, is the way the shoulders are constructed. The raglan sleeve, which connects to the neck rather than the shoulder, gives the shirt a distinct rounded profile. If you’ve ever found the classic chambray a little too boxy, this one will be a revelation.

With its relaxed fit and long tails, it’s a perfect shirt to just throw on any which way. Either tucked in or worn with its tails loose, it pairs brilliantly with absolutely everything.

It’s easy to see why Matt praised the shirt to the heavens. I’ve had mine for a week, and I’ve worn it every single day. A truly remarkable bit of kit from our friends at Heimat—one that should absolutely be on your list if you’re looking for a new chambray.

BUY A HEIMAT CHAMBRAY HERE

If you buy something from Heimat after clicking the links in this article, we earn a small commission. That’s how we keep the site running, and it’s why there’s a big button.


Big John Selvedge Chambray (5 oz.)

For reasons that are a complete mystery to this reviewer, Big John cuts their chambray shirts considerably longer in the arms and body than their Japanese competitors. The measurements on their website looked too good to be true. I had to try one.

When it arrived, it was every bit as long as advertised. The fit was perfect, and everything I look for in a great selvedge chambray was there: indigo-dyed slub yarns, triple-stitched seams with miles of chain-stitch run-off, and beautiful shell buttons.

Big John’s website said I should expect to lose about an inch in all the measurements when I washed it, but, after a careful cold wash, it emerged from the machine virtually the same size as it was when I pulled it out of the packaging. You should be able to dial the shrink up or down with the temperature setting on your washing machine.

If you’ve struggled with Japanese sizing (particularly if length is an issue), Big John’s Selvedge Chambray should rocket to the top of your list. It gives you all the bells and whistles we associate with Japanese heritage brands in a fit tailored for longer Western bodies. Truly, it’s the best of both worlds.

We don’t earn commissions from Big John, but if you want to check out the shirt, you can do so here.


The Lesson

If I’ve learned anything from my chambray shopping experience, it’s the importance of patience and of casting a broad net. I didn’t jump at the first shirt that caught my eye. I bided my time and waited until I had tried almost everything on the market to make my move.

I can rest easy knowing that I made the right decision. If you pick either of the chambray shirts I’ve described above, you’ll be able to rest easy as well.

Perfect Pairing

Nothing pairs as well with chambray shirts as the perfect pair of selvedge jeans. Start the hunt for your perfect pair with our Selvedge Masterlist. If you’re planning to wear your chambray tucked in, start with our list of High-Rise Selvedge. 

Join 11,000+ Denimheads Who Get My Emails

You’ve finished this article—hope you learned something new. How about more like it, delivered to your inbox every Friday?

Hey, it’s Thomas here, founder of Denimhunters. I send weekly emails with buying tips, denim knowledge, and practical style advice for guys who care about what they wear.

SIGN UP HERE

The post Best of the Blue Collar: Two Chambray Shirts Rise to the Top  appeared first on Denimhunters.

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A Talk With Mr. Nuri Sirikci , Marketing Director Of W Denim With D&J

October 3, 2025 by DENIMandPATCHES

ŞİRİKÇİOĞLU GROUP has been active in ring, open end, textured yarn since 1996 and Denim and Non-Denim fabric production since 2004. They are giving service to entire world with 4.000 employees with two mills located in Kahramanmaraş (Main factory) and Kayseri (Free Zone). They are providing 7% total yarn production and 23% total denim production of Turkey. D&J had a word with them to know more about them and their latest collection.

1. W Denim is a premium denim and non-denim fabric since 2004 . Your Sirikcioglu group has been an important player in the Turkish market . How do you see the changing scenario affecting the business and how are you adapting to it ?

W DENIM, as part of the Sirikcioglu Group, has been a trusted supplier of premium denim and non-denim fabrics since 2004.The textile industry is undergoing a profound transformation driven by sustainability demands, digitalization, and changing consumer expectations. We see these changes not as challenges, but as new opportunities.

Our adaptation strategy is built on three pillars: innovation, sustainability, and customer-centricity. Through our R&D investments, we develop new fabrics that meet both fashion and performance needs. Sustainability lies at the heart of our company; we operate with eco-certified production processes, technologies that save water and energy, and a circular production approach.

In addition, we work in close collaboration with our customers, enabling us to quickly adapt to trends, deliver tailored solutions, and ensure high quality with reliable lead times.

This approach allows us to maintain our competitive edge in a changing market while contributing positively to the future of the denim industry.

2. How important do you think Egypt is getting as a denim sourcing location?

Egypt is rapidly becoming a strategic hub for denim sourcing. This is driven by its proximity to Europe and shorter lead times, the preferential trade advantages with the U.S. market through QIZ, the growing textile investments, and the government incentives offered through industrial zones such as the SCZone. Over the past two years, increased textile/apparel investments and export growth have further reinforced this trend.

From our company’s perspective, Egypt’s importance is rising — and we are aligning with this trajectory. As Sirikcioglu Group, we have completed the official approval process for an investment in Egypt and decided to establish a new denim facility in the SCZone. This step is fully aligned with our goals of being closer to customers, enhancing agility, and achieving competitive costs. The news of this investment has also been reflected in public media.

In conclusion: Egypt is becoming an increasingly critical location for supply diversification, fast lead times, and cost/efficiency optimization. With W DENIM/Sirikcioglu’s global scale and structure (120 million meters annual fabric capacity), our presence in Egypt is integrated into this long-term strategy.

3. W Denim is one of Turkey’s largest integrated textile companies. Could you share your current annual denim fabric production capacity (in meters/tons), and how this has evolved in recent years? 

Sirikcioglu Group has an integrated production capacity of approximately 120 million meters of fabric annually, covering both denim and non-denim fabrics.In addition, with a daily yarn production capacity of 350 tons (including ring, open-end, and textured yarns), we secure the fundamental inputs of our production process within our own facilities.

Through our competitive pricing policy, we deliver sustainable added value to our customers, while our investments in digitalization and sustainability demonstrate our commitment to responsible growth for the future. Within this framework, our planned denim manufacturing investment in Egypt’s SCZone will further increase our capacity and expand our global export network.

4. We thank you for joining for second time the Denimsandjeans Egypt show in 2026. What would  be the most important products and offerings that you will make to the buyers in the show ?

We are delighted to participate in Denimsandjeans Egypt for the second time. This year, we will meet our buyers around three main focus areas:

1. Sustainable Denim Collections
Our eco-friendly fabrics, produced from internationally certified yarns such as GOTS and GRS, and developed with water- and energy-saving technologies, contribute to the vision of sustainable fashion.

2. Innovative & Fashion-Oriented Products
Alongside high-stretch performance fabrics, lightweight and comfortable summer denims, and premium non-denim fabrics with coatings and special effects, our collection also features:

  • Fabrics developed with Emana® technology, which helps reduce the appearance of cellulite, and
  • Laser pattern applications that stand out for their aesthetic and technical qualities.

3. Customized Solutions for Customers
Through fast lead times, flexible production capacity, and collection-based collaborations, we aim to provide our customers not only with fabrics but also with combined advantages of trend insight, sustainability, and reliable supply.

5. With the new sustainability legislations by EU , how would the brands’ demands on companies like yours would change ?

With the new EU sustainability regulations, brands will increasingly expect greater transparency, traceability, and environmentally friendly production from us. Since we have invested in these areas from the very beginning, we are already fully prepared to meet and deliver on these demands.

6. What are the most important sustainability technologies incorporated by you in recent times ?

–  In our production processes, we have succeeded in completely eliminating water usage by up to 100%, a highly critical step for the preservation of water resources.

–  Through our wastewater recovery facilities, we have systematized closed-loop water usage, minimizing our environmental impact.

–  On the energy side, our solar energy systems (PV) now supply 25% of our total energy needs from renewable in-house resources.

– In addition, energy recovery systems and low-emission production technologies continuously reduce our carbon footprint.

–  By using recycled and certified fibers in our fabrics, we contribute to the circular economy.

For any more details, please connect with Mr. Nuri Sirikci at nsirikci@wdenim.com

The post A Talk With Mr. Nuri Sirikci , Marketing Director Of W Denim With D&J appeared first on Denimandjeans | Global Trends, News and Reports | Worldwide.

DENIM and PATCHES sourced this post originally published on this site

Filed Under: Blog

How Lost & Found in Toronto Blends Denim and Streetwear

October 2, 2025 by DENIMandPATCHES

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Photo credit: Featured image from blogTo.

Lost & Found Is a Denim Destination to Visit (Even If You’re Nowhere Near Toronto)

I’ve never been to Canada, but the country was part of my childhood in a tangible way. My grandparents had several cringy souvenirs from visiting family there—one of them a big wooden clock with a grizzly bear on it. While also Canadian, Lost & Found is everything that clock wasn’t.

Since opening in 2010, the Toronto-based retailer has grown into a destination for menswear that balances timeless staples with contemporary influences in a way that feels both curated and lived-in.

And while their physical store on Ossington Avenue is a fixture for Toronto locals, for most of us, it’s the webshop that gives access to their mix of Japanese icons, European design, and American classics.

TL;DR – It’s Heritage, Streetwear, and Everything Between

Lost & Found is one of Canada’s leading menswear retailers, known for carrying The Real McCoy’s, Warehouse, Engineered Garments, Viberg, and more. A shop worth bookmarking. Shop at Lost & Found here.

Photo credit: Nuvo Magazine

A “Hippie Capitalist” Philosophy

The foundational idea of Lost & Found is to sell things you don’t have to keep replacing; clothes chosen with a collector’s eye, built to last, and presented in a way that feels more like a hangout than a showroom.

The shop stands out in the mix of shops we usually feature and link to, and their assortment moves between rugged workwear, sharp tailoring, and streetwear. 

Japanese names like Beams Plus and Nanga sit alongside North American staples like Alden and Gitman, European contemporaries like Margaret Howell and Our Legacy, and accessible favourites like Carhartt WIP and New Balance. Few North American shops carry The Real McCoy’s as broadly as Lost & Found, which tells you how serious they are.

The original location
… and the new location on 12 Ossington Ave

At their new Ossington location, the curation has space to shine.

As co-founder Jonathan Elias told Streets of Toronto, the move was “a dream come true”—a chance to display not just clothing but also the art, toys, and objects the team has collected over the years.


Where to Start: Categories Worth Checking Out

For denimheads browsing online, these are the categories where Lost & Found really shines:

Jeans: Japan Meets Europe in Toronto

Lost & Found has one of the strongest denim lineups in Canada, balancing repro perfectionism with more contemporary jeans. 

The Real McCoy’s and Warehouse anchor the heritage side, while brands like CIOTA, Auralee, and Beams Plus bring modern Japanese craft into the mix. 

Add in European labels such as Our Legacy and Sunflower, plus niche brands like Tender or Phigvel, and you’ve got denim that spans from hardcore fades to clean, fashion-forward silhouettes.

Shop denim at Lost & Found

T-shirts: Everyday Staples, Upgraded

Daily staples and loopwheel knits are a house speciality. They’ve got Merz b. Schwanen, but Warehouse and The Real McCoy’s show up here again too, with tees and sweats knitted on vintage loopwheel machines. 

They also stock Lady White Co. and their own Artist Series—white tees designed by local artists to add a unique twist to basics.

Shop tees at Lost & Found
Photo credit: blogTo

Footwear: From Viberg to New Balance

The back wall of the Ossington shop is dedicated to shoes, and the selection carries through online. 

This is Viberg territory—service boots, hikers, seasonal make-ups—alongside Paraboot for that French hard-wearing polish and the odd sneaker lane to keep it relaxed. 

Plus a rotating lineup of sneakers from the likes of Nike and New Balance, often in harder-to-find colourways.

Shop boots at Lost & Found
Photo credit: blogTo

Outerwear: Jackets for City and Winter

From Nanga’s technical down to military-inspired jackets by The Real McCoy’s, outerwear is another Lost & Found strength. 

Expect pieces that can handle Canadian winters but also work in a city wardrobe.

Shop outerwear at Lost & Found
Photo credit: Nuvo Magazine

Good to Know Before You Order

Sizing Guidance: Product pages are clean, image-led, and backed up with straightforward sizing notes—less storytelling, more what-you-need-to-know. Sizing varies by brand, especially with Japanese denim, so check measurements and compare with a pair you already own before you click buy.

Shipping and Duties: Free Canadian shipping on orders over $150 CAD, and free international shipping over $300 CAD. Do note that international orders may be subject to customs fees.

Returns and Exchanges: Returns are accepted within 14 days, for exchange or store credit. Sale items are final.

Customer Service: Lost & Found has a reputation for knowledgeable, approachable staff. Even if you’re shopping online, their team is known for answering questions quickly and clearly.


Worth the Trip, Worth the Click

Lost & Found isn’t “just another” denim shop. If you want Japanese denim, serious boots and dependable tops in one cart—without the stiff, temple-of-denim atmosphere—Lost & Found is easy to recommend. 

The Ossington Avenue store is definitely worth a visit if you make it to Toronto. Otherwise, the webshop is a great way in—and it captures the same blend of seriousness and fun that defines the store itself.

Start shopping Lost & Found

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The post How Lost & Found in Toronto Blends Denim and Streetwear appeared first on Denimhunters.

DENIM and PATCHES sourced this post originally published on this site

Filed Under: Blog

Why Nike SB Dunks Look Better with Worn-In Denim

September 18, 2025 by DENIMandPATCHES

Why Nike SB Dunks Look Better with Worn-In Denim

Why Nike SB Dunks Look Better with Worn-In Denim Some sneakers are pristine-showroom shoes—they look their best straight out of the box. Nike SB Dunks? Not so much. These iconic kicks have a personality that thrives when they’re lived in, scuffed just right, and paired with denim that’s been through…

DENIM and PATCHES sourced this post originally published on this site

Filed Under: Blog

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