You Don’t Need a Repair Expert to Extend the Life of Your Well-Worn Selvedge
Well-made selvedge denim has a well-earned reputation for durability. Still, all 100% cotton products have their limits, and even heavy selvedge is no exception.
Usually starting with crotch blowouts or holes in or around the knees, pairs start to go to pieces after a few hundred wears.
When repairs become necessary, you have two options: send your jeans to a professional for invisible mending, or do it yourself with sashiko. The first hides the damage; the second preserves and even showcases the holes and tears.
With invisible mending, a backing material is added, and the sewing machine passes back and forth dozens of times, using colour-matched stitches to fill the hole and reinforce the surrounding denim.
Done well, the result of invisible mention is sturdy and inconspicuous. Sashiko is something else entirely.
TL;DR – Sashiko Basics
Sashiko is a Japanese running-stitch technique that both repairs and beautifies well-worn garments. You don’t need any sewing experience. All you need is time, patience, and a few tools: sashiko thread, sashiko needles, a piece of heavy denim for backing, and 3-4 hours (budget more for larger repairs).
Why Denimheads Love Sashiko
With its roots in early-seventeenth-century Japan, sashiko (meaning “little stabs”) was born out of necessity. For rural Japanese fishermen and farmers, fabric was a precious commodity. Repairs extended the life of garments indefinitely (sometimes across generations).
It didn’t take long for Japanese ingenuity to turn the necessary repairs into an elegant art form. The simple running stitch (used to affix patches to worn areas) transformed into complex geometric patterns.
Strong, warm, and beautiful beyond measure, sashikoed Japanese workwear became wearable, museum-grade art.
Key to sashiko’s appeal is its simplicity. You don’t need any machinery or particularly nimble fingers. Even if you’ve never threaded a needle, beautiful sashiko repairs are within reach. Follow the simple steps below, and you’ll be able to start handling your own repairs.
Not only will you be able to mend your jeans in a day or two, you’ll also be able to play a larger part in your pair’s journey. Just as the fades are yours and yours alone, the repairs will be entirely yours as well. Trust us on this. It’s worth the investment of time and effort.
What You’ll Need for Sashiko Denim Repairs
My first few stabs at sashiko were rough but satisfying. I went to my local hobby shop and grabbed some waxed thread, some rough bandana-print material for backing material, and a few needles.
I was happy with the result, but happier with the lesson I took away from the experience: To get the result you want, start with the right tools for the job.
Item #1: Sashiko Thread
Unlike embroidery thread or other sewing threads, sashiko thread is heavy, non-divisible (one solid strand rather than multiple strands twisted together), and usually features a matte finish.
The cost difference is marginal; a single package of sashiko thread (usually 20-40 metres of thread) will last you through multiple repairs.
A white or ecru sashiko thread gives the most traditional look. This is best for repairs on the thighs, knees, and cuffs, where we want the repair to draw attention.
For crotch blow-outs, it’s better to have dark blue or indigo-dyed threads. While there are plenty of folks who use contrasting threads for blowouts in this sensitive area, it’s our advice to keep crotch repairs on the subtler side.
Item #2: Sashiko Needles
Like the thread, sashiko needles are purpose-built for sashiko stitching.
They’re longer (important if you’re going to do multiple stitches at a time), the eyes are bigger (to accommodate thicker sashiko thread), and they’re considerably stiffer than other needles (important if you’re repairing heavy denim).
Sashiko needles are available in a few different lengths. There’s no correct length. It’s a matter of preference, so grab a pack that features a range of lengths and try them all out to see what size is perfect for you.
You might also want to grab a pin cushion, especially if you’re prone to misplacing things. Not essential, but certainly a nice thing to have both between and during repair work.
Item #3: Backing Material or Patches
When repairing heavy denim, the best backing material is (you guessed it) heavy selvedge. I use denim samples from SOSO (they send a stack of them with every order, and they’re absolutely perfect for medium-sized repairs).
If you’re working with lighter weight denim, you should be able to find a robust cotton twill or canvas at your local hobby shop. If you’re mending a large hole, the face of the fabric will be visible, so choose the print wisely.
Sashiko patches make things as simple as paint by numbers. Just cover the hole with the patch, sew down the edges, and then follow the pattern, which will disappear in the wash. If it’s your first time, start with a simple pattern.
Item #4: Pins or Glue
You’ll need something to hold the backing material or patch in place while you’re working on it. A lot of the experts use pins along each side of the patch, but I prefer to use fabric glue, which holds the backing material securely in place.
If you’re using glue, remember that you’ll only want to apply glue to the parts of the patch that will be hidden behind the denim. I use the Sewline Fabric Glue Pen, but there are plenty of others to choose from.
If you’re patching a large hole, trace it out on the backing material and then apply the glue carefully.
Item #5: Thimble or Equivalent
Unless you’ve got incredibly thick skin, you’ll likely want to have something handy that will help you push the needle through multiple layers of thick denim. This is especially important when your repairs cross major seams.
A thimble will make the work faster and less painful. I use a small piece of the thick felt that you stick to the bottom of furniture legs to prevent scratches on your wood floors, but I’ve been eyeing a leather thimble like the one below.
Item #6: Stencils or Fabric Pen
Sashiko repairs can be as rough or refined as you like. You can, for instance, just do running vertical stitches of varying length. There’s a certain charm in rough and naive repairs, but the most striking repairs are precise and geometrical.
You can, with the aid of a grid and water-soluble fabric pen, mark out a pattern to follow with your needle and thread, but for an even simpler solution, you can use these Wash-Away Adhesive Stencils from Clone—an absolute game changer for me.
Step-by-Step Guide to Sashiko Denim Repairs
With the right tools in hand, you’re ready to get started. Work through the steps below in order. Take your time, and don’t be discouraged if the needle feels awkward in your hand at first. You’ll get used to it.
Step #1: Prepare Your Pair for Repair
When it comes to repairs, the first question is when? For visible repairs, it’s better to push your pair beyond its breaking point—to the point where the jeans need repairs. Purely decorative sashiko is absolutely fine, but sashiko repairs somehow look more natural when they are clearly keeping the pair from disintegrating.
If it’s been a while since you last washed your pair, you might want to consider washing before you start repair work. This is a must if you’re having anybody else work on your pair. It’s optional if you’re doing it yourself.
Depending on how much you want to showcase the fabric behind the repair, you might want to trim the exposed weft yarns and edges of the hole with scissors. If you’ve been looking for the excuse to get a pair of those nifty Japanese thread trimmers, now’s your chance.
For the cleanest repairs, fold the ragged edge under and then stitch around the edges of the hole. This is an excellent way to show off a great backing material, but you lose some of the charm of rougher repairs with exposed threads.
I usually skip this step, stitching through the ragged edges and exposed weft yarns. I also rarely wash my pairs before repairing them unless the pair need a bath. I like to go as long as possible between washes, so I see the ability to repair without washing as a small luxury.
Step #2: Back it Up
For this guide, I’m keeping things simple. I’m placing the patch on the inside of the jeans and, using a cross-pattern stencil as a guide, I’ll be stitching through both layers so that, when I wash away the stencil, only the pattern is visible on the face of the denim.
I’m repairing two relatively small holes around a half-inch apart, but both the backing material and the stencil will be around 4 x 4 inches. We want to strengthen not just the affected area but also the surrounding denim, so you’ll want the patch to push out an inch or so in every direction from the hole or rip you’re mending.
Turn the jeans inside out and, with either fabric glue or pins, firmly attach the patch. If you’re using glue, don’t apply glue to the parts of the patch that will show through the repair. Give it a few minutes to dry before turning the pair right side out.
Remember that the glue is not a weight-bearing part of the repair. It’s only there to hold the patch in place while you stitch. As long as the corners are firmly attached, that’s probably enough.
If your hole (like mine) is close to a major seam, cover the major seam with both the backing material and your stencil or pattern. These will be some of the hardest areas to get the needle through, but having the repair extend across this seam is essential if you want a long-lasting repair.
Step #3: Mark Out or Stick On Your Pattern
If it’s your first time trying sashiko, my recommendation is to start with the classic cross pattern I’ve used here. The crosses don’t have to be precisely the same size, but the spacing is very important if you want the pattern to look right.
With a fabric pen, you can mark out a grid of half-inch squares. The first vertical row of crosses should each sit in the middle of a square. The second row should cross at the corners of the squares. Each line of the cross should be about a quarter-inch long.
If you’re using an adhesive pattern (recommended), simply stick the pattern to the front side of your jeans, being careful not to allow the adhesive to fold or crease—this will skew the pattern.
Step #4: Start Your Stitches
Cut a few feet of thread and place two or three knots in one end. Thread the needle with the other end. Pass a considerable amount of thread through the needle (3-4 inches should be enough). It might take a few tries to thread the needle. Be patient.
Holding the tip of the needle between your thumb and index finger, with your sewing hand on the inside of the jeans, push the tip of the needle through both layers until you’ve found the bottom or top corner of one of the corner crosses.
Make your way either up or down the line following the short vertical lines in the pattern. Using both hands, guide the point of the needle up at the beginning and down at the end of each short line in the pattern.
If you like, you can stack multiple stitches on one needle, but this simply won’t be possible when you’re working with heavier denim. I’ve found it’s best to just go one stitch at a time. It’s slower but more precise.
After a few stitches, pull the thread through until it’s taught. Lines should be straight but not tight. Work the fabric with your hands to make sure it’s flat and doesn’t pucker around the stitches.
At the end of each line, move diagonally to the first cross in the next line. Leave just a touch of slack in the line each time you do this (not enough to snag when putting the jeans on, but enough to give each line a little breathing room. Finish all of the vertical lines before starting on the horizontal ones.
Step #5: At the End of Your Rope
Continue the pattern until you reach either the end of your thread or the end of the vertical lines. For small repairs, one piece of thread is usually enough for all the vertical lines. For larger ones, you’ll likely want to start a new piece of thread when you’re around the half-way point.
When you’re getting close to the end of the thread or are at the end of the pattern, with the needle on the reverse side, go back to the beginning of the last stitch you made. After passing it through the same hole, bring the needle down again through the middle of the stitch.
Turn the pair inside out to inspect your stitches, looking for long loops of snagged thread. The inside of the repair is not likely to be very aesthetically pleasing. Even expert repairs often look rough on the reverse side. Embrace it.
Finally, knot the thread two or three times, trying to get the knots quite close to the fabric (leave a bit of room). Then snip the thread close to the knot (not so close that it will come unknotted).
Repeat the same process for the horizontal stitches until the pattern is complete. Then, if you’ve used a wash-off adhesive, give the repaired area a quick dip in the water (no need to fully immerse the pair). It’ll disappear in a few seconds.
Congratulations, you’ve completed your repair. Just let the jeans dry fully before wearing them again.
Step #6: Take Your Time
A medium-sized sashiko repair usually takes me 3-4 hours to complete. I usually just throw on a movie and stitch away with one eye on the TV and the other on my work. My wife is often knitting beside me—the whole scene looks and feels very domestic.
When I’ve tried to speed up the process, I’ve been significantly less satisfied with my work. The best advice I can offer is to take your time and, if you make mistakes, go back and fix them or start again. The slower and more methodical the work, the better the result.
With each completed repair, your confidence will grow. You might refine a simple style, or you might start to explore more complicated patterns and techniques.
Even the simplest repairs can be eye-catching stunners if infused with personality and a little creativity. Mix up thread colours and look for fabrics that might fill holes or tears both purposefully and artfully.
However you approach the craft, you’ll be playing a hands-on role in your pair’s lifecycle, beautifying and strengthening it with every stitch. You’ll have a deeper relationship with your denim, and, especially if you take your time and do it right, you’ll be intensely proud of both your pair and your repair.
Pairs Worth Repairing
Time-consuming sashiko repairs only really make sense when the pair is worthy of the extra attention and devotion. If you don’t have a pair like this yet, start the hunt with our Selvedge Masterlist.
DENIM, EXPLAINED
Not Sure Where to Start?
If you’re trying to make sense of raw and selvedge denim, the guides below will help you narrow things down—by brand, weight, and what actually matters when choosing jeans.
- The Best Raw Denim Brands – A big-picture overview of the most important jeans brands—and how they differ.
- Lightweight Raw Denim – A curated guide to lighter-weight jeans that are easier to wear day to day.
- Best Heavyweight Jeans – A guide to heavier denim, what makes it special, and who it’s actually for.
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DENIM and PATCHES sourced this post originally published on this site